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An MGB has the advantage of a truly colossal aftermarket, you can pretty much get everything for them. A Spitfire or GT6 would be a good option, but I prefer the look of the TR6, though they do cost more. The MGA is going to be more expensive and slightly harder to restore than a B, but I do think they're a bit prettier. A Sprite or a Midget is worth looking at, too. A Jensen Interceptor would be awesome, but take everything you've heard about always buying the best-condition car you can find and double it. A rough one would cost you a crazy amount of time to sort out, and wouldn't be cheap. What about a Jensen Healey?  Or an Austin Healey? Though they can be pricey.  If you're more interested in having the look of a sixties car, but don't want to give up modern-car reliability (I appreciate the irony of that statement in your case right now), what about one of the Miata-based body conversions or kit cars?  
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Dec 29, 2012 11:36
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Cakefool posted:If there's no rust that's a bargain.
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Dec 31, 2012 13:56
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Motronic posted:Blueprinting means that it was built to a planned specification, i.e. not bringing a pile of parts to the machine shop and saying "take off what you need to to make it work." This could be the factory specs (which yours does not conform to if you've decked factory parts), an aftermarket race shop spec, your own spec, etc. But it was a detailed spec made beforehand. It's commonly used to refer to an engine that is nominally "standard", because your race regs or whatever say you can't modify it, but they don't say you can't make drat sure it's as good as that can possibly be. It's making certain that, in the internal combustion version of Twins, you've got yourself an Arnold Schwarzenegger rather than a Danny DeVito.
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Jan 16, 2013 21:30
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I believe they're referring to the restrictor that prevents the oil system just hosing down the inside of the cam cover full-blast. It's also called an oil control jet sometimes - if you pour oil down the passage it goes into, you're effectively backfilling the oil system between the pump and the head.
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Jan 17, 2013 18:43
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Ok, I just want to ask a really stupid question here: When you talk of going "down .020 on the crank journals", are you metric or imperial, and are you taking it off the radius or the diameter? Because if someone said that to me, my assumption would be "Reduce the diameter by a total of twenty thousandths of an inch (i.e. 0,508 millimetres)", and I think you mean 0,020mm (.0008") off the diameter. First thing is, I wouldn't worry about their letter and number designations. Measure the actual diameters of each rod and crank journal and take it from there. Your four "B" rods could be a mix of 46,008 to 46,016 and your journals a mix of 42,984 to 42,992 and you need to know exactly what that mix is in order to make a good assessment of where you stand for being able to remove metal and/or select new bearings. They also might have some slight ovality to them, it depends exactly what they allow for in their design tolerances.
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Jan 20, 2013 17:01
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If you had twenty thou taken off, I don't think the two thou total variance you can cover with the stock bearing range is going to be much help...
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Jan 21, 2013 16:12
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Adiabatic posted:Wait are you suggesting the chart is in millimeters?  While they haven't actually put a unit notation on the tolerance, the dimension it's tolerancing is metric, so unless they are experimenting with some extremely peculiar drugs, the tolerance values are also metric. Besides, if the values were imperial, your total tolerance window would be 48 thou, which is insane.
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Jan 21, 2013 18:26
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The Ford S2000 thing probably means they're for a Pinto engine, as in the kind used in the S2000 racing class. Why does the size given on those eBay bearings not seem to correlate with what's on that chart? Ok, right, STOP. Sit on your hands for a bit, calm down, and measure what you actually have. Then see if you can find bearings that will fit and give you the right running clearance.
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Jan 21, 2013 23:09
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Vandervell? However, making custom bearings can be pretty pricey. I would find a specialist in bearings, and explain the situation to them. You need the stereotypical weirdy-beardy who can practically cross-reference things in their head, give them your current sizes (and tell them you're willing to shave some metal if required), and let them have at it. They can probably find something that will fit. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jan 22, 2013 |
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Jan 22, 2013 18:49
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mafoose posted:10 thou?
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Jan 23, 2013 23:08
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meltie posted:Inches? Again?
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Feb 23, 2013 14:33
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Is it just the spark? The injectors are working?
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Mar 24, 2013 21:32
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Is there any way, through a diagnostic plugin etc, to "force" the cam profile change at lower RPM to make sure it works properly?
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Apr 27, 2013 14:44
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:This could be completely irrelevant but on the 2ZZ engine we needed completed reworked fuel/spark maps to lower VVT engagement RPM. I know some aftermarket companies make ECU flashes for the S2000 that lower to something low like 4500RPM but it's a completely different tune.
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Apr 27, 2013 16:58
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The rule is that you have to put the S2000 engine in whatever you buy.
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Nov 8, 2013 20:21
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The French police need to find some taxi drivers. Schlesser's a good sport, though. He did some of the other chase driving in the film, too.
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Nov 9, 2013 20:44
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They need Paul Walker and Tyrese Gibson, clearly. But I'm not posting loving  clips. Have another relevant Taxi one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajB9TEttHIA&t=88s
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Nov 9, 2013 21:53
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:23 |
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He lives his life a quarter-mile at a time. That's as far as he gets before something else goes wrong.
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Nov 19, 2013 01:57
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