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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


So if 3d is no big deal, is there any reason to go to the st50 over the u50?

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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


bull3964 posted:

Yes. The ST has a better panel with lower black levels and has an anti-glare filter.

Is that worth $400? That's the difference between the two as 50" models on amazon.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


weaaddar posted:

Don't consider the U50 its junk as far as all my research shows me. The UT50 is very good if you can keep the room you're using it in very dark. If you're putting this in your living room right next to the bay windows you'll be disappointed. The ability to calibrate the ST50 is better as well. But the main factor should be placement if you're putting this in your man cave then enjoy your sweet sweet TV.

However, there is one more thing to consider with plasmas. Power costs. The ST50 will use A TON of power compared to most LED TVs on the market especially when calibrated correctly (turn off power saver and grab some settings from avsforum to be wowed) Also their 3d prowess is apparently lackluster and not class leading like their picture is.

My roommate did quite a bit of research and ended up getting the u50 from Costco when we moved in. I thought it was a pretty nice TV. I've moved to another state and have a 4+year old vizio 32" that's much too small to be a main TV.

I'm looking for something in the 50-60" range, and right now the U50 is $598. I don't really think I'll find a better prize/size/quality match than that, will I?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Anyone have horror/success stories from using Amazon warehouse deals?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


So I'm getting really close to pulling the trigger, but am torn between the two technologies:

Panasonic VIERA TC-L55E50 55-Inch 1080p 120Hz Full HD IPS LED-LCD for $750 via Warehouse Deals

OR

Panasonic VIERA TC-P50U50 50-Inch 1080p Full HD Plasma TV for $650 via warehouse deals. (gently caress me the price swung back up again, Oh Amazon...... it was $550 yesterday)

Any thoughts one way or the other?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Since the u50 has gone end of life (even on the panasonic website no longer lists it in favor of the 2013 model), I'm currently having toss up between two Panny IPS LED TV's

Both are the same price, but one is 47" and 3D, the other is 55" and non 3D.

Panasonic VIERA TC-L55E50 55-Inch 1080p 120Hz Full HD IPS LED-LCD TV

Panasonic VIERA TC-L47ET5 47-Inch 1080p 120Hz 3D Full HD IPS LED-LCD TV with 4 Pairs of Polarized 3D Glasses

Thoughts?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Don Lapre posted:

Get the LIKE NEW $924 55" version of the ET5 off amazon warehouse

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...=&startIndex=15

Dangit, the more i look the more other deals i find. There is a used with only box damage ST50 for $800. Goon approved Plasma beats out IPS?

The only downside i can see is that the ST50 is Active 3D and requires the special powered glasses, as opposed to the passive IPS glasses.

Will I really miss 5 inches?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Elysium posted:

Best? Gonna have to specify size or quality.


Hard to say. But it's not really "5 inches" it's 21% more area: http://www.displaywars.com/50-inch-16x9-vs-55-inch-16x9

yeah, but the same 1080p resolution, so less pixel density, right?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Any thoughts about the TC-L47E5 47" IPS LED? I can't find ANY reviews anywhere (minus amazon).

I found one for under $500.

Edit: I pulled the trigger. I couldn't beat that price.

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Feb 9, 2013

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Winged Orpheus posted:

I'm looking for a 42-47 inch TV, not 3D. Using it mostly for games, with a few movies here and there. I'd like to spend around $500 if possible, but can go a little higher if needed. Anyone have any suggestions?

See my post above about the Panasonic TC-L47E5, its full IPS-LED, and i've been pretty happy in the week i've had it, using the settings listed in the amazon reviews.

Amazon warehouse has them for ~~$475 with minor cosmetic damage to the back/missing stand screws (buy replacements at Ace for $3).

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


cereal eater posted:

I have a Panasonic TC-P54G25 a couple years back, and recently moved across the country without my tv stand. While I wait for it to return, anyone have any suggestions on a decent (safe) way to prop it on the entertainment center and against the wall?

a portion of 2x4 clamped flat in front of the center, with the TV behind it. Sort of like this:
= is 2x4
/ is the tv
| is the wall
code:
 
      /|
====]/ |
awww, screw it, here is a crudely drawn paint of the idea.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


When in doubt: monoprice. I've got nothing bad to say about the 3+ mounts I've bought from them over the years.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Capsaicin posted:

I got a LG 47cs570 from Amazon, LCD. After about two weeks, I've had an issue where the TV will not turn on. If I leave it unplugged for a few hours, I can turn it on, but switching the input from component (which my cable box is running) to HDMI (360, PS3) will cuase it to shut back off and not be able to be turned back on.

Does anyone have any ideas one what could be done aside from "send it back to Amazon"?

Edit: And it just turned on by itself for about 2 minutes, then shut back off.

Does it have an HDMI control feature, if so, is it turned off?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Capsaicin posted:

Not that I know of. I was playing Xbox the other night, it shut off, and then it stayed off until I was able to leave it unplugged for a few hours.

Edit: Looks like disabling "Simplink" stopped it. Leaving my Xbox on while I go to work to see if this shuts it down again.

Simplink = HDMI control. ;)
IE: the HDMI devices all talk to each other about their power states and turn each other on and off.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Capsaicin posted:

It's bone back to turning on and off and on and off, even when hooked up via component and Simplink is off. I just set up the return to Amazon and will likely be looking around at purchasing a new TV from Walmart or somewhere. Looking at a 47"ish LED, and I'd like to not spend a ton.

I got a Panny 47" IPS LED, (look a few posts up) from amazon warehouse deals for $475. I am VERY HAPPY with it. there is a *small* dent on the back of the unit and the stand had no screws ( a quick trip to Ace fixed that for $3 until my monoprice wallmount arrived).

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


MonsterWalk posted:

Not quite an HDTV question but does anyone have any HDTV antenna recommendations? I'm thinking about grabbing a Mohu Leaf Paper Antenna . Currently, I'm using the jenky Pie Tin-Coax cable and it picks up 4 channels intermittently so, I imagine that a real antenna will work pretty well. Any suggestions? If this is the wrong place, sorry.

I got the cheap $15 one from monoprice and it's been working great.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10901&cs_id=1090101&p_id=4729&seq=1&format=2

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Syves posted:

My BluRay player is a PS3, and it won't dim/darken at all unless I pause a movie. Even on a static menu for a regular DVD. But I'll check int Anynet/CEC. Never heard of that before.

PS3 has an auto off feature. Most (all?) TV's can/will turn off with no signal.

On your PS3:

XMB > Settings > System Auto-Off
After 1 Hour The system turns off after the specified period of inactivity.
After 2 Hours
After 3 Hours
After 4 Hours
After 5 Hours
Off The system is not set to turn off automatically.


Step 1: Configure PS3
Step 2: Configure TV
Step 3: Watch movie.
Step 4: ZzzzzzzzZzzzzzzzzz
Step 5: Profit! (Because both devices will turn off and save you $ on your power bill!)

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Rick Rickshaw posted:

I'm curious about this too, particularly how one can control/automate the on/off state of the lights.

It looks like the expensive one is controlled via USB. What if I want my HTPC to be off but still control the LEDs?

fake edit: Wow, I might not care. I rarely watch cable anyway. This thing looks awesome:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UP7SmUqkxc

http://amblone.com/

http://hackaday.com/2013/08/05/no-computer-ambilight-clone-uses-a-computer/

https://www.facebook.com/Ambipi

http://www.davenewson.com/tutorials/electronics/ambilight-with-teensy-2

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Does anybody have experience using a Spyder3 and using HFCR to calibrate the TV via the TV settings? I've found the couple of guides, but they are a bit confusing as gently caress and there aren't ones that combine with what settings to use via the backend menu access.

Right now I've used Spyder to calibrate via a profile on the videocard, but if i switch to the Xbox or PS3 it goes back to the non calibrated output.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Don Lapre posted:

What settings does your tv have? Do you have 10 point calibration or just 2 point?

Not 100% sure, it's a Panasonic Vierra TC-L47E5 47" IPS LED.
http://shop.panasonic.com/shop/model/TC-L47E5

I've gotten into the service menu just to look around but it was an odd and funky place.

edit: this is the guide i'm referencing. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

toplitzin fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Oct 2, 2014

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Don Lapre posted:

Is there something you are confused about in the guide? Its pretty step by step.

I'll have to go over it a second time at home since work blocks the url, but IIRC i was having issues with the spider detection and what fileset to use.

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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Don Lapre posted:

Is there something you are confused about in the guide? Its pretty step by step.

Sorry, newst version is here: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322

Ok, so now that I'm home and can go over it, I cant find the RGBHighEnd and RGBLowEnd or their analogues in the menus i have available, as the suggested names may be:

RGB LowEnd: Bias, Offset, Cuts, Cutoff, Sub-brightness, RGB brightness
RGB HighEnd: Drive, Gain, Sub-contrast, RGB contrast

Also is there any CMS available, perhaps somewhere in the service menu?

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