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Brigdh posted:If you are seriously looking for a FD, I know one that is basically a collectors item, '93 base with 10k miles on it and it looks like it just rolled off the assembly line for $25k
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Feb 6, 2013 19:18
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I know I'm supposed to hate ABS, but I happen to like it on my S5 TII after I went autocrossing Saturday for the first time after fixing the pump. It really seems to have fixed the twitchyness between actually breaking and the fronts completely locked up, and it didn't seem to freak out over R-comp tires.
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Feb 7, 2013 01:58
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Apparently redesigning the spark plug holes in the housing causes the EGTs to drop by 600 degrees: http://www.mazdamovement.com/rotary-engine-breakthrough/
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Feb 7, 2013 06:52
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Brigdh posted:Apparently redesigning the spark plug holes in the housing causes the EGTs to drop by 600 degrees: http://www.mazdamovement.com/rotary-engine-breakthrough/ While his theories sound interesting, he didn't back it up with anything but his logical analysis of what he did and why. The offset combustion chamber thing is complete bull though.Simply put, pressure doesn't work that way. Also don't spark plugs perform terribly if they are shrouded by either the head or a foreign object? I'm reasonably sure that is proven, however I'm not certain.
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Feb 7, 2013 07:02
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Are those chatter marks on the housing modded to use slot holes? There's no way he ever ran that welded offset divot rotor, right?
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Feb 7, 2013 07:19
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kimbo305 posted:Are those chatter marks on the housing modded to use slot holes? There's no way he ever ran that welded offset divot rotor, right? I can only imagine that vibrated more than usual. I also wouldn't be surprised if that is one of the reasons its centered, other than having a uniform combustion.
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Feb 7, 2013 07:23
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Wasn't Mazda going to use laser ignition in the 16x? With lasers you could do away with the plug hole entirely, and have the lens flush with the sidewall. Also, I thought that the big reason rotaries had low compression was that apex seals are held to the sidewalls with mostly centrifugal force, and the side seals were just springs. If that mangled rotor ever ran in an engine, I'd say low EGT's were a result of it barely working. 
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Feb 7, 2013 08:18
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"Lexus" mechanic hasn't figured out why there's two spark plugs per rotor and why the bottom one fires first... High EGT is because the rotor is always making power, no "rolling stroke" so to speak and overlap of the inlet and exhaust. Edit: I think they were looking at the wrong side of the housing personally. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 15:48
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Brigdh posted:I know I'm supposed to hate ABS, but I happen to like it on my S5 TII after I went autocrossing Saturday for the first time after fixing the pump. It really seems to have fixed the twitchyness between actually breaking and the fronts completely locked up, and it didn't seem to freak out over R-comp tires. People like hating on ABS because they think they're better drivers then they actually are. ABS also has a nice side effect of saving your tires from becoming octagons if you're a cone chaser.
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Feb 7, 2013 17:50
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kimbo305 posted:Are those chatter marks on the housing modded to use slot holes? There's no way he ever ran that welded offset divot rotor, right? According to the video, he ran a prototype, so I assume that included the rotor. I noticed the chatter marks too, but more or less assumed that could be fixed via refinement. The balance on that thing has to be all screwed up. Theres no real details on if he ran the modifications independently (how does he know what effects each modification had) but the housing shown appeared to be tailored to the new rotor design. I think he made a lot of assumptions about rotor design and how combustion actually works, which don't hold up in reality. Octopus Magic posted:ABS also has a nice side effect of saving your tires from becoming octagons if you're a cone chaser. Pretty much the exact reason why I put effort into repairing the pump when no rebuild or replacement option existed.
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Feb 7, 2013 18:10
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Brigdh posted:Seems to be about $2k under the market value for beat up FDs around me, and I think I see rust on the interior (WTF?), so something seems up. Assuming the engine is good, and the rust is just a bad picture, you'd probably have to still refresh the entire suspension, probably want to refresh the rats nest, maybe address some cooling issues FDs are known for, and a bunch of maintenance items that you'd normally have to do for a 19 year old car. Tell me more... Color code/Interior?
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Feb 7, 2013 18:50
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the spyder posted:Tell me more... Color code/Interior? SSM w/ black leather interior. If you have an email address I can send you a link to where I saw it. I'd PM it to you, but it looks like you don't have PMs (or I can't figure out how to PM you, one of the two).
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Feb 7, 2013 18:56
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I swear I just saw the same car listed for $28k, which lead me to autotrader/rx7club... Which found me this: http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-vehicles-107/1994-rx-7-%244000-obo-1025440/ 1994 Montego Blue Base, 5spd, 60k $4k- needs some sideswipe repair done. Wooooot. If he still has it, I will pick it up.
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Feb 7, 2013 19:07
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The one I'm thinking of is in Colorado, so I'm not sure if its the same as what you've seen. $4k for an FD? drat that's really tempting
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Feb 7, 2013 19:51
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The other thing I wanted to ask about from that night chasing the NSX -- I was going up a decent grade on the highway, at 70+. I didn't really need to accelerate; just wanted to stay at speed. But that was enough load for the turbo to decide to start spooling at just under 3k. At that speed and throttle, it was very easy to go in and out of that initial boost. Pulsing like that is extra wear and tear on the turbo, right? Is the only way to avoid it to cruise at a different RPM or to accelerate and decelerate out of that zone? I've only had one other turbo car and I remember it being less sensitive to minute throttle changes at part load.
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Feb 9, 2013 09:18
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SocketSeven posted:...Also, I thought that the big reason rotaries had low compression was that apex seals are held to the sidewalls with mostly centrifugal force, and the side seals were just springs.... Actually the side seals and apex seals use combustion process gas and pressure to do the sealing. The whole method of sealing the combustion chamber using the gas's, which are the reason for side seal and apex seal grove clearances and there tolerances, are what F. Wankel designed before he even began work on the Wankel. I believe that the sealing matrix holds its own patent as well. Some German torpedo's used the same sealing matrix in a rotary valve setup to create low profile heads allowing the motors to fit in said torpedo's aswell. Its my understanding the springs are in place just for initial sealing, IE starting.
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Feb 9, 2013 13:19
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rotard posted:Actually the side seals and apex seals use combustion process gas and pressure to do the sealing. The whole method of sealing the combustion chamber using the gas's, which are the reason for side seal and apex seal grove clearances and there tolerances, are what F. Wankel designed before he even began work on the Wankel. I believe that the sealing matrix holds its own patent as well. I'm not a rotary guru but what you said makes sense and is probably correct.
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Feb 9, 2013 22:16
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Need a little air cooled rotary? It seems they are common engines in UAVs. http://www.uavenginesltd.co.uk/
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Feb 18, 2013 18:32
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Is the 12A electronic distributor worth anything? I have one I got from a pile or scrapped rotary parts, anyone want it?
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Feb 18, 2013 18:45
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Speaking of FDs, I saw this on Craigslist and it looked pretty so me so I thought Id share it. http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/3616169105.html
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Feb 18, 2013 21:04
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Time to make this thread a little more exciting. I spy with my eye, something that is triangular. Started the initial design for a rotary.
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Feb 19, 2013 02:15
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DJ Commie posted:Is the 12A electronic distributor worth anything? I have one I got from a pile or scrapped rotary parts, anyone want it? The two ignitors on the side of it are worth a stupid amount.
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Feb 19, 2013 04:23
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End of today and it looks like a rotary already. Hell of a lot easier than a V8.
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Feb 19, 2013 04:29
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Any of you AI goons around the Shreveport, La area need FB parts there's this guy. https://www.joserotary.com/ He's got about 30 of the things in various states of repair in his shop to be sold/parted out.
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Feb 19, 2013 20:02
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rcman50166 posted:Time to make this thread a little more exciting. Did you stick with a traditional R/E ratio? or go off the beaten path? I can't quite make out the radius's other then the center eccentricity.
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Feb 21, 2013 01:36
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So does anyone know how much a front subframe for an FB is and how hard it is to swap in 
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Feb 22, 2013 11:26
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rotard posted:Did you stick with a traditional R/E ratio? or go off the beaten path? I can't quite make out the radius's other then the center eccentricity. It is a standard eccentricity. I'm not about to go and mess up an already complicated geometery. The math on torchoids is awful. It's actually a lot easier to learn about it visually. Below is the full size image link: http://i.imgur.com/4uke3kf.jpg
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Feb 22, 2013 19:18
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My FD has the habit of engaging ABS at low speeds when rolling up on a stop. It makes my but pucker when I overshoot the stop by a foot or so. It doesnt happen all the time. It is very random. What's up?
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Feb 22, 2013 21:05
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Aeka 2.0 posted:My FD has the habit of engaging ABS at low speeds when rolling up on a stop. It makes my but pucker when I overshoot the stop by a foot or so. It doesnt happen all the time. It is very random. What's up? Cracked ring(s).
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Feb 22, 2013 21:15
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So today I test drove the FC RX-7 that I posted in the Craigslist Gold thread. I'm looking for a relatively reliable but still fun DD. Guy has lowered his asking price to $3k. It looks relatively unmolested. Holy hell, what an 80's interior. The crazy switches and knobs really threw me for a loop. Seller also offered to let me schedule an independent inspection and take the car to it myself which was pretty cool of him. It was my first time looking into the engine bay of a rotary, there were a few electrical connectors that looked like they weren't connected but what do I know. Summary of known issues: Motor replaced in 2000 @ 52K miles (car now has 132K) by a Mazda dealership. He has paperwork that he can get me on that if needed. Sunroof stuck in closed position Minor electrical problems -Passenger window control switch broken (apparently his dad busted it by trying too hard while the lockout was on) -Antenna stuck in up position -Windshield wipers only work in medium setting -Rear windshield wipers nonfunctional -Head Unit only plays front & rear speakers (not door). But all speakers are non-original, so unsure where issue is. Stick definitely has that "stirring the soup" feeling I was warned about by Motronic Exhaust replaced about 2 years ago, looks relatively cheap, already has a little rust Alternator replaced 1 year ago Headlamp switch replaced 2 years ago Cosmetic: I don't really like the burgundy color he had it painted. Cheap MAACO job, 2 years old, originally was silver. Some nicks and dings in the paint and a scrape up front. The windshield wipers are rusted out but I imagine that's a quick swap. Front suspension felt good driving over bumpy asphalt, didn't really get to throw it into curves, I didn't get above 3rd gear on the test drive. Tomorrow morning I am going to test drive a 2001 Miata with 49K miles that the guy is asking $6k for. Depending on how much I like that, I may or may not end up making an offer on the RX7.
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Feb 22, 2013 22:11
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Sir Cornelius posted:Cracked ring(s). I suppose they are original. Ugh, guess I'll take a look over the weekend.
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Feb 22, 2013 23:42
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Tyro posted:
2K at best for that RX7.
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Feb 23, 2013 00:08
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kimbo305 posted:The other thing I wanted to ask about from that night chasing the NSX -- I was going up a decent grade on the highway, at 70+. I didn't really need to accelerate; just wanted to stay at speed. But that was enough load for the turbo to decide to start spooling at just under 3k. At that speed and throttle, it was very easy to go in and out of that initial boost. Pulsing like that is extra wear and tear on the turbo, right? Is the only way to avoid it to cruise at a different RPM or to accelerate and decelerate out of that zone? I've only had one other turbo car and I remember it being less sensitive to minute throttle changes at part load. Anyone?
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Feb 23, 2013 02:31
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Interesting question: the rotary in my RX4 is completely borked; water seals are gone and the champagne test results in a nice geyser of coolant. Everything I can find about the US-market cars is that they ran a 13B throughout their production run. Is any 13B a plug-and-play affair as far as the motor's concerned? Basically, can I swap in a 13B from a late-model RX7 (not doing any sort of fuel injection swap, just gonna re-use the carb'd intake system)? Also, since RX4-specific parts aren't exactly falling from the ol' scrapyard tree, what would be a good radiator replacement for an auto RX4? There's an eventual plan for a full powertrain swap for the 5-speed (dream swap's a 20B with side-draft carbs because I'm mentally deficient, enjoy carburetors, and have a sick desire to maintain that manual choke in my car) so if there's an option that'll scale up as far as the cooling system goes I'm all for it. Just asking to see if anyone's got experience with RX4s or if I'm treading somewhat new ground here.
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Feb 27, 2013 00:59
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A 13B swap of what you are thinking of probably won't work like what you want. First, Second, and Third gen RX-7s all had 13B engines of some kind, yet its non-trival to swap them around as motor mount designs changed, longblock items changed, hell even things like the crank angle sensor changed. The RX4 probably uses something like a distributor for ignition with a gear dropping into the front cover, yet all FD engines (as far as I'm aware) used a VR sensor off the main pulley (similar to how most ABS sensors work), so converting that will not be trivial. You are probably better off pulling the engine, and sending it out to someone for rebuild instead of trying to hack up some kind of swap (but if you go ahead with the swap, I'd be quite interested in how it goes)
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Feb 27, 2013 01:18
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kimbo305 posted:Anyone? I hunted around for an answer if that would be excessive turbo wear or not, but didn't find anything. I'm inclined to think that if the turbo is in good condition, it may be a little bit of wear, but not enough to put significant effort to avoid it. I know there is a hill I drive on every couple of weeks that does the same thing, but its only for half a mile, so I mostly rationalize my concern away.
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Feb 27, 2013 01:40
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I think I might need to start a new thread of my own again.
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Feb 28, 2013 03:12
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Looks like there's a lot of empty space that could be more RX7s there. Maybe you could get an FC or something to mix it up a little.
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Feb 28, 2013 03:24
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the spyder posted:I think I might need to start a new thread of my own again. Nah, just dump it here. Maybe you'll post more 
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Feb 28, 2013 04:41
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Looks like there's a lot of empty space that could be more RX7s there. I just kicked a S5 out at friend was storing, haha. See the block infront of the red FD? That's the corner marker for a 30x48 shop going up. The joke right now is that there is already a line for the new shop. Three of the FD's should be going away this month. Fingers crossed!
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Feb 28, 2013 06:53
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