Search Amazon.com:
Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us $3,400 per month for bandwidth bills alone, and since we don't believe in shoving popup ads to our registered users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
«524 »
  • Post
  • Reply
Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


Welcome to the Parts Picking and Building Megathread!

Mod note:
The regulars in this thread maintain a valuable resource of information and often answer the same questions every day with no reward on their part. If they are short with you, it is probably because didn't read the OP properly or ignored their helpful responses. Feel free to challenge them and ask questions but if you are a jerk, I will ban you - no probation, no warning.
Love, The Management


FOR THE LOVE OF GOD READ THE STATEMENT DIRECTLY BELOW, HELP US HELP YOU

If you want good advice, we really need to know the following from you:
- Budget (desired and/or maximum)
- What you're doing with the machine: Gaming? Transcoding? Video production? 3D Modeling? HTPC?
- If you're doing multimedia stuff, how serious is it (ie are you editing old home movies or doing professional work)? What programs are you using to do it?
- If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? What games are you looking to play? How high do you want your graphics settings to be?

Also, the guide links below answer the most commonly asked questions, please take a look there!


GUIDE LINKS (or just scroll down)

You can also check the Tech Report System Guide for an alternate take on current best choices when buying.

If you're need help on PC assembly, the Tech Report has a guide on how to build a PC, and Newegg has posted a video series on how to build a PC.

You can also check out The old Megathread if you want a trip down memory lane.

Somebody fucked around with this message at Mar 4, 2014 around 02:26

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


THE GENERAL SYSTEM FAQ (OR, THE QUESTIONS YOU'RE GOING TO ASK SO READ THIS)
Updated 4/7/2014


Question List (scroll down for answers)
1. Are prebuilt systems any good?
2. What's the best way to future-proof my system?
3. How many cores should I get?
4. Intel or AMD?
5. What socket types are there?
6. What's up with Intel's different chips/board models?
7. Should I overclock?
8. ATI or Nvidia?
9. What brand video card should I buy?
10. Should I crossfire/SLI?
11. Can I use a v3/2/1 PCIe card in a v3/2/1 PCIe slot?
12. How much RAM do I need?
13. How much wattage does my PSU need?
14. What kind of motherboard should I get?
15. Do I need a sound card?
16. Do I need aftermarket cooling?
17. Should I get a Solid State Drive?
18. What kind of case should I get? Should I get a full tower?
19. What monitor should I get?
20. Is Win 8 worth upgrading to?
21. What kind of gamepad should I get?

1. Are there any good prebuilt systems?
If you'll only be using office apps and web browsing, prebuilt systems are cheaper than building yourself. The more powerful you want your system, the more advantageous it becomes to build your own.
If you want a pre-built office box, stay with big name companies like Dell, HP. If you want a prebuilt gaming system (which we don't recommend) Falcon Northwest and Origin PC are good choices. Smaller vendors will cut corners on important hardware, overcharge, or both. The Dell Outlet or Lenovo Outlet has particularly good deals on lower-end hardware.
If you're on a tiny budget but still want to game, a Dell Outlet Inspiron + Geforce 750/750ti is your best bet. It won't win awards but you'll be able to game at an acceptable framerate.


2. What's the best way to future-proof my system/make it run top end games for 5 years?
YOU CANNOT FUTURE-PROOF! Buy parts with the best price-to-performance value for your money now, and save the rest. Anything you buy today will be outclassed by what's available in 2-3 years, regardless of if you spent $1000 or $4000.
For example, if someone tried to future-proof a gaming system three years ago, they would have gotten an i7 2770, 16G DDR3, a GTX580, a 256G SSD, and paid ~$2500 for all of it. Today, a $1000 system picked from this guide would perform as well or better.
A $900-1200 system (excluding monitor/OS) can run current games with high settings at 1920x1200. If your system costs more than that, you're probably overspending.


3. How many cores? 4/8/more?
Quad core is the best general choice. Anything more than 4 cores adds no performance in gaming/general desktop work - those extra cores are only beneficial in heavy multimedia or scientific applications.
While the new consoles are 8 core, that doesn't mean you'll need an 8 core system for PC gaming anytime soon.


4. AMD or Intel?
Intel Haswell (4000 series) chips are the best choice unless you have a very niche need. AMD chips have higher power usage and are still beaten soundly in single-thread performance.


5. What motherboard socket do I need?
Intel socket 1150 (H81, B85,Z87) is the only type that works with 4000 series chips.


6. What CPU/Motherboard models should I get?
Intel "K" and "non-K" chips are essentially identical with one difference: K chips can overclock and non-K chips cannot. Z87 board allow overclocking, while H85 and B85 boards do not. B85 boards have slightly fewer bells and whistles while still being fine for the average user.

In summary:
- Best performance without overclock: H81/B85 + i5 4570.
- Best performance with overclock: Z87 + i5 4670K.
- Cheap but functional Intel setup: B85 + i3 4130.


7. Should I overclock?
Haswell doesn't overclock as well as previous Intel chips, so we don't recommend an overclocking setup by default. If you want to get large O/Cs, you need to look at $80+ solutions like Noctura high-end air coolers or watercooling. The guide-recommended Hyper 212 is fine for mild OC and/or noise reduction.


8. AMD or Nvidia Video Cards?
Both companies have great cards. Both companies have competitive products. Currently AMD cards are severely overpriced in many areas because of dumb crytpocurrency miners.


9. What brand should I buy once I've decided on a video card?
Specific models of video card (Geforce GTX760, Radeon 7950, etc) are performance identical between brands. Lower tier vendors are more likely to cut corners that affect reliability.
For AMD cards, we recommend Asus, and Sapphire. For Nvidia, we recommend Asus, EVGA, MSI, and Zotac.
From there, criteria are based on price and warranty, which varies between brands. Other less important differences are type of cooling, factory overclocking, and bundled games.


10. Should I SLI/Crossfire?
A single $250-$300 card will handle everything at 1920x1200 at high settings. Dual card solutions cost more, run hotter, and suffer from minor to major performance issues, depending on the game.
SLI is useful in certain circumstances, like tri-monitor gaming, 3D gaming, or resolutions higher than 1200p.


11. Can I use a video card whose PCIe spec is higher than my motherboard?
PCIe versions are all fully compatible in all directions, so you can use any card in any board. There is essentially no performance loss using "newer" cards in "older" slots.



12. How much RAM do I need? What speed, timings, brand?

8 Gigs of DDR3 1600 (1.5v or lower) is the current sweet spot - anything higher offers no benefit for gaming/general desktop. If you're doing professional grade A/V or scientific work, DDR1866 can net you up to 4% better performance in select tasks. Avoid ram with giant heatsinks/fins - they don't help and can get in the way of other parts.


13. How much wattage does my PSU need? Can I use my old one?
Wattage is not the most important choice when buying a PSU. The power supply is the only part of your system that can destroy everything else in your computer, so buy a well-constructed unit from a reliable brand. Also, any PSU, even a good brand, should be replaced after ~ 5 years.

We recommend:
- Corsair (but NOT CX/Builder Series models)
- Seasonic
- Antec (Earthwatt series)
- XFX

Other brands may cut corners or give deceptive power ratings. There are other good brands, but it's impossible to keep a comprehensive list. Below are general wattage guidelines. These recommendations only care about your video card - the other components in a system don't vary enough to matter for PSU sizing.

- Integrated graphics/no PCIe power plug on the video card: 300w
- 1 PCIe power plug on the card: 400w
- 2 PCIe power plugs on card: 500w


14. What model/size motherboard should I get?
The Quick Pick boards are solid boards with everything an average user needs. You shouldn't spend more than what those boards cost unless you need specific ports, features, or SLI/CrossFire support. MicroATX boards are as full-featured as full ATX boards, so mATX is now preferable to get a smaller system footprint.


15. What sound card should I buy? Should I use my old one?
Onboard sound is now very good, and you'll be perfectly happy with it. Discrete audio cards are reserved for people doing audio production work, high end audio setups, or high end headphones (like Sennheisers). If you do have one of these needs, we recommend an Asus Xonar DGX for headphones, and going to A/V Arena and/or Creative Convention for audiophile advice.


16. How much cooling do I need (ie heatsinks, watercoolers, case fans)?
Stock cooling is fine for general use. Aftermarket cooling is for overclocking or noise reduction. Modern heatpipe-heatsinks offer great performance while being cheaper and easier to install. Watercooling is best reserved for :2f2f: overclocking and very small builds with no room for heatsinks.
For cases, airflow and cooling is not a big deal; any modern case with front and rear 120mm fans will be fine even with overclocking and a powerful GPU. Thread regular Agreed has created a very detailed guide to case fans if you're wanting more details.


17. Should I get a Solid State Drive (SSD)?
Absolutely. We recommend a 120G drive at minimum, or 240+ if your budget will allow it. The default choice right now is the Samsung Evo series. If you want something else we HIGHLY recommend you visit the SSD Thread, as there are a lot of sub-par drives out there now.


18. What kind of case should I get? Do I need a full tower?
You do not need a full-tower case. Modern mid-tower cases can fit a large heatsink, dual video cards, 4+ hard drives, fans, and still have room for cable routing.
While almost any case will work, a well made case will make building and maintaining your system much easier. "Airflow" is not an issue - 2x120mm fans are plenty, and more fans will be noisier and possibly even detrimental to cooling.

Look for:
  • Tool-less drive mounting
  • Removable dust filters
  • Cable routing
  • Noise reduction paneling

Avoid:
  • Full-tower sizes
  • 4+ fans pre-installed
  • Bundled PSUs

The Quick Pick has some best-in-class cases.


20. What monitor should I get?
There are two main display types: IPS and TN. IPS is far better than TN, and is affordable even on a budget. Some of the best-in-class IPS screens are the Dell Ultrasharp line. TN should be reserved for people who must have 120Hz screens.
Additionally, screens commonly come in 16:9 aspect ratio, which is fine, but many people swear by (more expensive) 16:10 screens.
You can read more in the Monitor and Display Megathread.


19. Is Windows 8 worth upgrading to? 32 or 64 bit?
If you're buying a new OS, get Win 8.1 64-bit. It's MS's newest OS and will get the lion's share of MS's attention for patches/security updates. If you can't stand the new start screen you can get Win-7 style replacements (like Classic Shell) for free.
If you have an existing Win 7 license you don't need to upgrade, any OS before that we recommend you upgrade.


21. What kind of gamepad should I get?
Microsoft Xbox 360 controller. It works out of the box with Vista and up, and is the default gamepad on most PC games. Wired is cheapest but you can buy a pack with an official MS wireless adapter as well (avoid knockoff units).

Crackbone fucked around with this message at Apr 7, 2014 around 11:57

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


Quick Picks
Updated 4/7/2014

THIS IS NOT A DEFINITIVE LIST!!!
This list has "best values" for gaming/general desktop use, and should only be used as a starting point.

All QP links go to the PC Part Picker website, which shows pricing from various retailers.

Intel CPU

Intel Motherboard
Non Overclocking Boards

[*]
Memory

Graphics
Graphic card prices are always in flux. Currently AMD cards are severely overpriced in most locations because of the bit/alt/dogecoin rush.

The below list is roughly arranged in order of increasing power.
Actual performance differences depend on game, resolution, and settings, so check actual game benchmarks (see next post) to see how specific cards perform.

Hard Drive

Solid State Drives

Optical

Cases


Power Supplies
As long as you select based on # of PCI-E plugs, these choices are interchangeable. Buy on price and efficiency, not power. The only exception is modular units, which let you connect only the cables you need.

Wireless Adapter

Monitors
In general, most LCDs will be fine for the average user, and price is the biggest driver. You can also check the SA Monitor Megathread for additional suggestions.

Aftermarket Cooling

Operating System

Gamepads

------------------------------------------
The "SA Performance" System

The "SA Value" System

The "SA Penny-Pincher" system

Recommended Vendor List
In the U.S.:
NewEgg,Amazon, NCIX

Canada:
NCIX,Canada Computers, DirectCanada

Europe:
Amazon UK, SCAN Computers, Aria

Australia
Umart, PC Case Gear

Japan
Tsukumo, Twotop

Crackbone fucked around with this message at Apr 7, 2014 around 11:59

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


COMPARISON CHARTS
Please remember that synthetic benchmarks are the *WORST* way you can compare hardware. Make sure to choose real-work applications that reflect what you'll be doing.

GPU

CPU

Crackbone fucked around with this message at Jan 20, 2014 around 17:28

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


Kuros posted:

1. $300 - $500. I already have: PNY 550ti 1gb dual slot video card and a hard drive. I won't need a DVD drive, I use them so rarely anyway. So I will need: cpu, case, ram, mobo, psu.
2. HTPC + Light Gaming. This won't be my main gaming machine, it will be for games that I can use Steam Big Picture on and play with a controller.
3. Just watching movies/TV on the machine, nothing major.
4. This will be on a 1080p 40" TV. The card I have has a mini hdmi port, so I'll connect that to the TV. The graphic settings can be at a medium at most and I'll be fine with it.

I was looking at a Coolermaster Elite 120 Advanced case, but should I go with a smaller form factor computer or should I go for a standard size computer? I'm also wondering if that case will fit the vid card, it looks like it will, but I'm not sure.

You should be looking at the i3 range. Case will depend entirely on what you want - I'd say look at mini ITX, with a Bitfeenix Prodigy. It's not tiny but it's got a pretty small footprint for entertainment center space and has room for a full size video card.

Requested_Username
Nov 27, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 3 days!


Ragehaver posted:

Maybe a Fractal R4, Silverstone TJ08B-E, or Corsair 400R? The Corsair 300R is a cheaper option, on sale at Newegg right now for $49.

I noticed you downgraded the soundcard. If you have $500 headphones, get the $180 Essence card. If you don't, you can safely skip a soundcard all together and use the onboard motherboard audio.

I actually do use a high end pair of Bose headphones, so I put the soundcard back in.

Here's my final draft: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vkNs


If anyone has any more suggestions or critiques please speak up!

Ragehaver
Jul 27, 2001

"Though I often smell of excrement, I deserve your respect because I provide a valuable service."

Requested_Username posted:

I actually do use a high end pair of Bose headphones, so I put the soundcard back in.

Here's my final draft: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vkNs


If anyone has any more suggestions or critiques please speak up!

What headphones, exactly? The Xonar Essence card has a built in headphone amp, so you need to have low impedance headphones to make it worth while. Otherwise, you'll be fine with onboard (or go nuts, and get that regular Xonar DG card). Typically, if you aren't sure if you need a Xonar Essence, you don't.

edit: if you're dying to throw money around, upgrade to a GTX 660ti video card.

Also you have a "K" chip and a H77 board. Switch to a non-K chip if you don't want to overclock, unless the K is cheaper.

Ragehaver fucked around with this message at Jan 1, 2013 around 20:57

Requested_Username
Nov 27, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 3 days!


Ragehaver posted:

What headphones, exactly? The Xonar Essence card has a built in headphone amp, so you need to have low impedance headphones to make it worth while. Otherwise, you'll be fine with onboard (or go nuts, and get that regular Xonar DG card). Typically, if you aren't sure if you need a Xonar Essence, you don't.

Quietcomfort 15s.

e:

Ragehaver posted:

Also you have a "K" chip and a H77 board. Switch to a non-K chip if you don't want to overclock, unless the K is cheaper.

Yeah there's a $15 bonus for buying the K, which actually makes it cheaper than the non-K version, unless I'm reading the listing completely wrong.

Ragehaver
Jul 27, 2001

"Though I often smell of excrement, I deserve your respect because I provide a valuable service."

Requested_Username posted:

Quietcomfort 15s.

Yeah there's a $15 bonus for buying the K, which actually makes it cheaper than the non-K version, unless I'm reading the listing completely wrong.

Yeah, looks like you're right. Doesn't hurt to use a K chip with an H77 board, so that'll work.

With those headphones, the Xonar DG would be a fine choice since they don't require an amp.

tehinternet
Feb 14, 2005

STINGERS 4 LYFE

Rest is peace old thread. Thanks for all the great advice guys, it's been immeasurably helpful.

Rageaholic Monkey
May 31, 2005

You have my permission to
STAY OUT OF THE
FUCKING WAY!


Great job again with the OP, Crackbone Glad to see my case (BitFenix Prodigy) on the quick picks list, and all the other picks look good as well.

The only thing I'd add is a note about not needing an i7 over an i5 unless you're doing lots of video encoding, which most people here probably aren't. That seems to be a question that gets asked pretty frequently. But you covered a ton of stuff, so maybe it's in there already and I just missed it vv

In any case, to all of you reading this thread looking for solid advice: you're in the right place. This thread has helped me upgrade my PC every step of the way and now I have a killer system that I have zero complaints with. If the posters in here advise that you go a certain route, listen to them as they really know what they're talking about

Kuros
Sep 13, 2010

You may have to metaphorically make a deal with Mort. And by "Mort", I mean Robot Mort. And by "metaphorically", I mean get your coat.

Crackbone posted:

You should be looking at the i3 range. Case will depend entirely on what you want - I'd say look at mini ITX, with a Bitfeenix Prodigy. It's not tiny but it's got a pretty small footprint for entertainment center space and has room for a full size video card.

Well, my "entertainment center" is one of those cheapy things from Walmart, so there's a lot of open room for the computer.

Here's what I'm looking at:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16811129066 - Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16817341017 - PSU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16820104173 - Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16813157293 - Mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16819115078 - CPU

Looking at $433 + tax, maybe I could get a bit cheaper?

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009
I HAVE A CREEPY OBSESSION WITH WOMEN'S SHOES.

BUT I DON'T HAVE A FOOT FETISH.

BECAUSE THEY'RE TOTALLY DIFFERENT THINGS.

TOTALLY.


I feel uncomfortable with the Zotac video card recommendation. Their cooling solutions are somewhat lacking and they have a HORRIBLE rebate servicer.

sports
Sep 1, 2012
I'm a stupid fucker who can't shut-up about how great Apple computers are! I want Steve Jobs semen in and around my mouth.

The Corsair Carbide 300R is also a very very good case.

You might also like to mention the Intel NUC and how it's a great way to learn the feel of building a PC.

Requested_Username
Nov 27, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 3 days!


Alright, final draft, speak now or forever hold your peace:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vlBz

sports
Sep 1, 2012
I'm a stupid fucker who can't shut-up about how great Apple computers are! I want Steve Jobs semen in and around my mouth.

Requested_Username posted:

Alright, final draft, speak now or forever hold your peace:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vlBz

Remove Windows 8 -> Windows 7, Use the keyboard you've had / get an Apple Pro extended from goodwill.

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


sports posted:

Remove Windows 8 -> Windows 7, Use the keyboard you've had / get an Apple Pro extended from goodwill.

Why exactly should he be getting Windows 7?

Monkahchi
Apr 29, 2012

Fresh Chops!

sports posted:

Remove Windows 8 -> Windows 7, Use the keyboard you've had / get an Apple Pro extended from goodwill.

I disagree, I've just installed Windows 8, after a long spell with windows 7, and I really like it. I'm especially loving the improved hardware performance/lower resource usage.

Rageaholic Monkey
May 31, 2005

You have my permission to
STAY OUT OF THE
FUCKING WAY!


Windows 8 with a start menu replacement (I use Start8) is Windows 7, but with several improvements. If you've gotta buy an OS at this point in the game, don't go with 7.

Lenin Stimpy
Sep 9, 2009


Is there any point waiting a few months for some new CPU? I'm considering purchasing a whole new system in the next month, but will postpone it several months if it's worth it.

Monkahchi
Apr 29, 2012

Fresh Chops!

Lenin Stimpy posted:

Is there any point waiting a few months for some new CPU? I'm considering purchasing a whole new system in the next month, but will postpone it several months if it's worth it.

I don't really think so right now, the latest IvyBridge CPU's are excellent across the range, and will almost certainly have a great lifespan. There will always be new CPU's, but gains from one series to the next are marginal, its only as time passes that you notice a large difference. Standard advice of course remains, buy the best you can afford. Currently for my money the i5 3870k is absolutely incredible for the money.

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


Lenin Stimpy posted:

Is there any point waiting a few months for some new CPU? I'm considering purchasing a whole new system in the next month, but will postpone it several months if it's worth it.

Can you stand the performance of your current system? If yes, wait. If no, buy now.

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with


Odd question in a department that I'm terribly unfamiliar with. I'm looking for a solution whereby I can hookup a GameCube to a monitor. Major requirement: There can't be any latency in the video output. Originally, I wanted something like this, but I'm concerned that their will be latency in output. If a converter box doesn't work, I'd be looking into getting a new monitor with a tv tuner on it, however, these seem to be incredibly expensive. I'm honestly just unfamiliar with what I should be looking for in a monitor with tv tuner and have no idea what I should be paying.

Advice?

sports
Sep 1, 2012
I'm a stupid fucker who can't shut-up about how great Apple computers are! I want Steve Jobs semen in and around my mouth.

Lenin Stimpy posted:

Is there any point waiting a few months for some new CPU? I'm considering purchasing a whole new system in the next month, but will postpone it several months if it's worth it.

Since we're exiting/awaiting a release cycle, I'm sure you could wait ~3months for the prices to go down, that is, if you have a computer already.

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


Canine Blues Arooo posted:

Odd question in a department that I'm terribly unfamiliar with. I'm looking for a solution whereby I can hookup a GameCube to a monitor. Major requirement: There can't be any latency in the video output. Originally, I wanted something like this, but I'm concerned that their will be latency in output. If a converter box doesn't work, I'd be looking into getting a new monitor with a tv tuner on it, however, these seem to be incredibly expensive. I'm honestly just unfamiliar with what I should be looking for in a monitor with tv tuner and have no idea what I should be paying.

Advice?

Stop playing Smash Brothers?

Seriously though, what you'd have to have is a monitor with no input lag, do 1:1 pixel mapping, and accept whatever video output it does, which at best is going to be component. You're going to have an incredibly hard, if not impossible time finding a monitor with all those criteria. Try the monitor megathread.

uhhhhahhhhohahhh
Oct 9, 2012


The Dell U2312HM has incredibly low input lag, I think about 0.6ms. It's one of or the lowest LCDs. CRTS are 0, in case you didn't know. I don't know how having a bunch of converters will impact this, though.

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

Odd question in a department that I'm terribly unfamiliar with. I'm looking for a solution whereby I can hookup a GameCube to a monitor. Major requirement: There can't be any latency in the video output. Originally, I wanted something like this, but I'm concerned that their will be latency in output. If a converter box doesn't work, I'd be looking into getting a new monitor with a tv tuner on it, however, these seem to be incredibly expensive. I'm honestly just unfamiliar with what I should be looking for in a monitor with tv tuner and have no idea what I should be paying.

Advice?

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/images/...input_lag_1.jpg

Mod Edit: Don't leech images. Rehost on imgur if you want to embed.

Somebody fucked around with this message at Jan 2, 2013 around 17:17

sports
Sep 1, 2012
I'm a stupid fucker who can't shut-up about how great Apple computers are! I want Steve Jobs semen in and around my mouth.

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

Odd question in a department that I'm terribly unfamiliar with. I'm looking for a solution whereby I can hookup a GameCube to a monitor. Major requirement: There can't be any latency in the video output. Originally, I wanted something like this, but I'm concerned that their will be latency in output. If a converter box doesn't work, I'd be looking into getting a new monitor with a tv tuner on it, however, these seem to be incredibly expensive. I'm honestly just unfamiliar with what I should be looking for in a monitor with tv tuner and have no idea what I should be paying.

Advice?

Haha, just buy an old Dell multiscan or Trinitron. They're $15 on craigslist.

Also, my experience with a converter is alright. You'll have good and bad days with them.

Spiritus Nox
Sep 2, 2011

Trust us, we're highly trained medical professionals bears.


Hey, my hard drive is starting to give out and I'm finding myself in need of a new one. I'm running an Alienware m17x R3 I use for coding and gaming, my old hard drive had around 600 gigs and I'd prefer not to go smaller, and my price ceiling is around 200 dollars. Could anyone make some recommendations. I've seen some stuff on Dell's website that I like, but it's hard to tell what will actually fit in my laptop.

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


Spiritus Nox posted:

Hey, my hard drive is starting to give out and I'm finding myself in need of a new one. I'm running an Alienware m17x R3 I use for coding and gaming, my old hard drive had around 600 gigs and I'd prefer not to go smaller, and my price ceiling is around 200 dollars. Could anyone make some recommendations. I've seen some stuff on Dell's website that I like, but it's hard to tell what will actually fit in my laptop.

OP. Quick pick list.

Kuros
Sep 13, 2010

You may have to metaphorically make a deal with Mort. And by "Mort", I mean Robot Mort. And by "metaphorically", I mean get your coat.

Spiritus Nox posted:

Hey, my hard drive is starting to give out and I'm finding myself in need of a new one. I'm running an Alienware m17x R3 I use for coding and gaming, my old hard drive had around 600 gigs and I'd prefer not to go smaller, and my price ceiling is around 200 dollars. Could anyone make some recommendations. I've seen some stuff on Dell's website that I like, but it's hard to tell what will actually fit in my laptop.

You can pick up a 1TB drive for around $80 - $100 before tax + ship most anywhere. Western Digital is the goto for many people.


Kuros posted:

Well, my "entertainment center" is one of those cheapy things from Walmart, so there's a lot of open room for the computer.

Here's what I'm looking at:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16811129066 - Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16817341017 - PSU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16820104173 - Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16813157293 - Mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16819115078 - CPU

Looking at $433 + tax, maybe I could get a bit cheaper?

Revisiting this. Any suggestions on this or does it look good?

LoboLoboLobo
May 26, 2008

yoink!

I should've mentioned this when it was asked in the old thread, but under Recommended Vendor, I have to suggest MicroCenter. If you live near one, it's pretty awesome. Huge store with a wide selection of everything you ever thought you might need for computers. Their prices are extremely competitive to the others on that list and they offer package deals for processors and motherboards. I got an 3570k + Asus P8Z77V-LK for about $300 with an Asus rebate for $15 which is cheaper than getting them separately anywhere else (according to PCpartpicker). But they don't have too many stores across the country, so it's definitely selective. I think they ship for certain products, but not all.

Spiritus Nox
Sep 2, 2011

Trust us, we're highly trained medical professionals bears.


Kuros posted:

You can pick up a 1TB drive for around $80 - $100 before tax + ship most anywhere. Western Digital is the goto for many people.

I saw a good one of that size for about that price at best buy today - I just want to be sure, if the label on the box says that it's a laptop hard drive, is there any worry that it won't fit in my specific laptop? I just don't want to drop a hundred dollars on something I can't plug in.

Kuros
Sep 13, 2010

You may have to metaphorically make a deal with Mort. And by "Mort", I mean Robot Mort. And by "metaphorically", I mean get your coat.

Spiritus Nox posted:

I saw a good one of that size for about that price at best buy today - I just want to be sure, if the label on the box says that it's a laptop hard drive, is there any worry that it won't fit in my specific laptop? I just don't want to drop a hundred dollars on something I can't plug in.

Just make sure you get the right size. Laptop HDDs are 1.8 or 2.5 inches. You probably have a 2.5 inch drive. Just check that first before buying.

Ularg
Mar 2, 2010

Just tell me I'm beautiful.

Reposting without actually reposting from last thread. Basically I want to know if I'm crazy for wanting to upgrade from my 6870. And should I be waiting for the next release of Nvidia cards for the purpose of maxing out graphics with 3D on? I know next to nothing on Nvidia, too.

Ragehaver
Jul 27, 2001

"Though I often smell of excrement, I deserve your respect because I provide a valuable service."

Ularg posted:

Reposting without actually reposting from last thread. Basically I want to know if I'm crazy for wanting to upgrade from my 6870. And should I be waiting for the next release of Nvidia cards for the purpose of maxing out graphics with 3D on? I know next to nothing on Nvidia, too.

Moving up to a 660ti would be a nice upgrade from a 6870, without the 3D. 3D with max settings however, may require a lot more than that. I'd look into a GTX670 minimum, if you demand 3D, good frame rate and max settings.

Meta Ridley
Jan 15, 2007

May I help you with your order?

Has there been any word of a new AMD game promo? Looks like the one with FC3/Sleeping Dogs/AC3 isn't offered anymore. On top of that it seems like the 7870s all shot up in price so it seems like a really bad value right now. I might just go with a GTX 660 (non-Ti) instead since there are a couple in the $200 range

Spiritus Nox
Sep 2, 2011

Trust us, we're highly trained medical professionals bears.


Kuros posted:

Just make sure you get the right size. Laptop HDDs are 1.8 or 2.5 inches. You probably have a 2.5 inch drive. Just check that first before buying.

What if I'm seeing a drive (that claims to be for laptops) that claims to be 2.75 inches? I presume that's right out.

Ularg
Mar 2, 2010

Just tell me I'm beautiful.

Ragehaver posted:

Moving up to a 660ti would be a nice upgrade from a 6870, without the 3D. 3D with max settings however, may require a lot more than that. I'd look into a GTX670 minimum, if you demand 3D, good frame rate and max settings.

Thank you, I'll check them out right now. 3D and a good framerate at 1920x1080 would be the dream.

Scalding Coffee
Jun 26, 2006

You're already dead.


What hard drive would be preferred for those people who insist on larger storage capacities?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

The Gunslinger
Jul 24, 2004

Do not forget the face of your father.

Scalding Coffee posted:

What hard drive would be preferred for those people who insist on larger storage capacities?

For NAS stuff Western Digital Reds, 2-3TB (best, usually most expensive, TLER etc) or Seagate Barracuda 3TB (shorter warranty, more power usage but usually on sale)
If you don't care about performance and just want raw storage then the WD Greens are fine, although they don't have configurable TLER anymore. Personally I use a set of 6 Seagate 3TB drives in my fileserver but they were on sale for $90 during black friday compared to $150 for the WD Reds so it was a no brainer. If the prices were the same I would have gotten the WD Reds or Greens since they are a bit lower power usage and are a bit quieter.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply
«524 »