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Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


Naan Bread posted:

I've got this sapphire 7850, and it all works great, but I've just now been looking over the specs and it very clearly states it requires 2x PCIe 6-pin power connectors when there is very definitely only one socket on the card. It looks like some other brands of 7850 with the same specs have 2 sockets, what the hell is going on?

Nothing to worry about. The 7850 is right at the top end of what 1 PCIe power connector can deliver, so some companies just put 2 connectors on.

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Meta Ridley
Jan 15, 2007

May I help you with your order?

Anyone have a 7870 XT/Tahiti LE? I had no idea this card even existed. It isn't based on the 78xx/Pitcairn chip at all but is based on the 79xx (Tahiti), with a lower memory bus (256-bit) and shader count. Apparently overclocks pretty nicely too. Of course AMD brilliantly named it the "AMD Radeon 7870".
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16814131484
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/...ahiti_LE/1.html

I found it somewhere else for $239 with no rebate, any thoughts or does this sound like the best value in the $200-250 range?

Bummo
Jan 12, 2004

Dr Spike Rush
Hypoman
Bust Him
Destroy Secret Lab


This thread has been an awesome resource and really helped me help my brother pick parts for his PC and has been a great staring point for myself. Now I'm finally building a new machine for myself and would like to get some input in case I've made any mistakes.

Machine purpose: Semi-professional photo/video editing, coding and gaming.

I'm only going to be playing indie games and Diablo 3 to start with, so I plan on going with the on chip Intel GPU in the beginning. I'll upgrade when I get the urge to play Far Cry 3 or some other high end game. At that point, I'll get a GTX 660ti/Radeon7950 or whatever the current high end card is at that time. Thus, the reason for the way overpowered PSU. When I do get a video card, I plan on using LucidLogix Virtu Universal MVP to take advantage of the Intel GPU media editing efficiencies, while gaming with the video card.

Monitor resolutions: Dual monitors running 1920x1200 and 1024x768. Later upgrading to dual 1920x1200.


CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LE LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
RAM: Mushkin Enhanced Silverline 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666)
SSD: Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe MKNSSDCR240GB-DX 2.5" 240GB
Hard Drive: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 ST1000DM005/HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM
Optical Drive: LITE-ON DVD Burner - Bulk Black SATA Model iHAS124-04 - OEM
PSU: SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold ((SS-650KM Active PFC F3)) 650W (black friday deal for $90)
Wireless Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N180UBE USB 2.0 External 5dBi Antenna Wireless Adapter
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
OS: Windows 7 SP1 64-bit



Thanks a lot!

Edit: Wife requested I change non-professional to semi-professional photo/video editing

Bummo fucked around with this message at Jan 6, 2013 around 15:39

Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

I can do sex. It's just alien sex.


That's pretty solid. With coding, video, and photo in the mix, I wouldn't call it crazy to go straight to 16GB of RAM and/or spend an extra couple dollars for DDR3-1600 stuff, but it's not required, either.

If your desktop will be more than one room away from your router, I'd recommend an Intel Centrino 6205 for Desktops adapter. They're absolutely fantastic in laptops (I have one in my ThinkPad) because they get full-strength signals when many single-antenna adapters struggle to maintain a connection, and the desktop version doesn't seem to be an exception.

Bummo
Jan 12, 2004

Dr Spike Rush
Hypoman
Bust Him
Destroy Secret Lab


Factory Factory posted:

That's pretty solid. With coding, video, and photo in the mix, I wouldn't call it crazy to go straight to 16GB of RAM and/or spend an extra couple dollars for DDR3-1600 stuff, but it's not required, either.

If your desktop will be more than one room away from your router, I'd recommend an Intel Centrino 6205 for Desktops adapter. They're absolutely fantastic in laptops (I have one in my ThinkPad) because they get full-strength signals when many single-antenna adapters struggle to maintain a connection, and the desktop version doesn't seem to be an exception.

Thanks! Our router is on another floor from where this desktop is going so I'll definitely look into getting that adapter. I'm excited to be looking at 16BG RAM now; before I thought I wouldn't have a reason besides epeen

Bonobos
Jan 26, 2004


Duo posted:

Hi all, I'm really thinking of building a gaming machine. I'm not looking for the absolute best but something in between. I'm hoping to keep it under $1K. I was just going to go with a regular ATX system but after seeing some mini ITX setups and the Bitfenix Prodigy case I'm starting to change my mind. I love how that case looks and it would be nice to be able to easily carry it and hook it up to an HDTV sometimes. Anyway here is a build I've come up with and I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on it or if I've chosen anything terrible. It's been at least 6 years since I've last built a PC so I wanna make sure I'm on the right track.

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($204.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77E-ITX Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Plus 500W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($77.17 @ Amazon)

From what I've read mini-ITX preforms pretty well these days right? Also I don't absolutely have to have a mini setup, but it's what I'm leaning towards now. Here is an additional regular atx build I've picked out as well: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vY0m

Anyway this thread has helped me out tremendously so thanks!

As someone who just pulled the trigger on a similar set-up, I would like to share that while mini-ITX is indeed awesome and performance really doesn't suffer despite shrinking the size, there are a few limitations:

1) the ASRock Z77E is a great board (have one myself) but due both to the proximity of the CPU socket to the GPU slot and ASRock brilliantly setting up the board so that the backplate for the cooler sits right on top of a transistor, you will be unable to fit the 212+ without some heavy modding. In fact very few aircoolers will fit (aside from the stock intel cooler) without modding, its simultaneously the main issue with going ITX and the reason why so many in the forums go for closed loop cooling systems in theirs. A few have gotten Noctua coolers (D12 or D14, can't remember which) to fit if you cut the (plastic) backplate. Note this isn't a problem limited to ASRock. The Asus ITX board had similar issues last I checked (despite being more expensive). Gigabyte's ITX may or may not but gently caress Gigabyte. I personally went for a Corsair H80i in mine (somewhat retarded but I got a good deal on it and it is a nice cooler).

2) The power supply chamber only has ~170mm in length space. Meaning the power supply you choose should be 160mm or less if you are choosing a non-modular, and 150mm or less if you are going modular or you will become very frustrated putting the drat thing together trying to squeeze in a power supply that just barely fits. The unit you chose looks okay to me (lot's of users in the Prodigy boards use Silverstone PSUs they are supposed to be solid). I opted to go a Antec Neo 520 recommended in this thread. It is non-modular, but a lot cheaper, and I didn't mind using non-modular for the Prodigy since it was so easy to hide away cables.

Hadrians Dong
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
NOBUTTER


I'm thinking of putting together a new PC and I had a few questions on parts. It's going to be an I5 3570 with an Nvidia 660 and pretty much everything else recommended in the OP but now that I have everything kinda picked out I'm at that stage where I'm trying to round off a little bit off the price. I was looking at the cases listed and the Bitfenix Shinobi is a pretty looking case but at 70 bucks that seems like a lot. Is there any reason to buy that over something like a cheaper Bitfenix Merc or a NZXT in a color I may or may not like?

Also for the power supply, the OP recommends something a little above 400w for this setup. I was thinking of getting the 450w one in the OP but when I was looking at cases I saw this corsair 430w in the suggestions. I don't know much about brands but I heard Corsair is a decent one for PSUs so is there any reason why I shouldn't get that one instead of the one in the OP?

Argas
Jan 13, 2008
SRW Fanatic

Francostein posted:

I'm thinking of putting together a new PC and I had a few questions on parts. It's going to be an I5 3570 with an Nvidia 660 and pretty much everything else recommended in the OP but now that I have everything kinda picked out I'm at that stage where I'm trying to round off a little bit off the price. I was looking at the cases listed and the Bitfenix Shinobi is a pretty looking case but at 70 bucks that seems like a lot. Is there any reason to buy that over something like a cheaper Bitfenix Merc or a NZXT in a color I may or may not like?

Also for the power supply, the OP recommends something a little above 400w for this setup. I was thinking of getting the 450w one in the OP but when I was looking at cases I saw this corsair 430w in the suggestions. I don't know much about brands but I heard Corsair is a decent one for PSUs so is there any reason why I shouldn't get that one instead of the one in the OP?

OP specifically recommends Corsair's non-Builder series PSUs. The one you linked is a Builder series.

Hadrians Dong
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
NOBUTTER


Argas posted:

OP specifically recommends Corsair's non-Builder series PSUs. The one you linked is a Builder series.

Oh, I was so focused on wattage because I never really do this, whoops. I think I'll pony up 20 bucks so I don't fry anything. Thanks man.

Blaisedell
May 7, 2008



Blaisedell posted:

I'm building my first PC and was wondering if someone could give my build a once over and tell me if there are likely to be any issues with the components I've chosen. This PC will be solely for gaming and the most important thing for me is a consistent framerate, but high quality graphics settings on new games would be nice as well. I don't really think I will need to overclock so haven't chosen a CPU and motherboard for it.

I've used the OP as my basis and will probably get the components below unless there's a reason I shouldn't. I will probably add some hard drives at a later date but for now I think the SSD should be enough.



This thread has been a great help. Thanks!

I ordered this build in the end. Kind of think I should've gone with an overclocking CPU and motherboard. How important is overclocking generally for running games smoothly?

Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

I can do sex. It's just alien sex.


Blaisedell posted:

I ordered this build in the end. Kind of think I should've gone with an overclocking CPU and motherboard. How important is overclocking generally for running games smoothly?

All but meaningless now. In 2-4 years, might let you put off a new machine for another few months or a year or two, depending on the games you play.

Sacred Cow
Aug 13, 2007


Argas posted:

OP specifically recommends Corsair's non-Builder series PSUs. The one you linked is a Builder series.

I purchased my PSU before I found this thread and it was a Corsair CX500 (Builder series). Is there anything I need to worry about and start looking for a different one? Its been running pretty solid so far.

Crackbone
May 23, 2003

Vlaada is my co-pilot.


Sacred Cow posted:

I purchased my PSU before I found this thread and it was a Corsair CX500 (Builder series). Is there anything I need to worry about and start looking for a different one? Its been running pretty solid so far.

Probably not. We tend to go overboard on stating the risks of a bad PSU, but it's only because $20 more for a PSU that guaranteed won't blow up your system is really worth it.

OppyDoppyDopp
Feb 17, 2012


I want to build a HTPC and have an E6750 plus 4GB DDR2 going spare, so I thought I'd use them to get me started. How does this spec look?

Silverstone Milo ML03B Micro ATX: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/silv...-(can-take-atx) (A basic case, but I like it because it can take three HDDs)
Enermax 350W Power Supply: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/350w...fan-atx-v23-psu (Choice is limited to PSUs with a depth of 140mm or less)
Sandisk 64GB SSD: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/64gb...s-7200-iops-max
Akasa S775 low-profile cooler: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/akas...-s775-1155-1156
Asus 1GB HD 5450 Silent Low Profile: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/1gb-...mi-hdcp-ready-l (I don't want to game on this machine, so I'd hope this would be plenty)
Gigabyte GA-G31M-ES2L Micro-ATX: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321047935308

The total cost is 200, which seems reasonable enough. Any thoughts?

The only thing missing is a remote control. Could anyone recommend one?

Guni
Mar 11, 2010


What's the best way to clean a cpu? I know 99% isopropyl is regarded as one of the best, but here in Australia apparently it is hard to get because people use it in the manufacturing of drugs, is there anything else that's decent? Also is a microfiber cloth best?

pokecapn
Oct 17, 2003

yeah, galo sengen

Francostein posted:

I'm thinking of putting together a new PC and I had a few questions on parts. It's going to be an I5 3570 with an Nvidia 660 and pretty much everything else recommended in the OP but now that I have everything kinda picked out I'm at that stage where I'm trying to round off a little bit off the price. I was looking at the cases listed and the Bitfenix Shinobi is a pretty looking case but at 70 bucks that seems like a lot. Is there any reason to buy that over something like a cheaper Bitfenix Merc or a NZXT in a color I may or may not like?

The Source 210 also comes in black, but I would suggest the Source 210 Elite or waiting for the Corsair Carbide 200R to come back in stock. The main things you're losing over the OP cases (and the 210 Elite) are a second case fan and front USB3 ports.

Guni posted:

What's the best way to clean a cpu? I know 99% isopropyl is regarded as one of the best, but here in Australia apparently it is hard to get because people use it in the manufacturing of drugs, is there anything else that's decent? Also is a microfiber cloth best?

You can use lower concentration rubbing alcohol without any problems. The best way to clean is to use a q-tip/cotton swab, both for cleaning and drying the alcohol faster. You really don't need that much to get old thermal paste off.

pokecapn fucked around with this message at Jan 6, 2013 around 23:13

Too Poetic
Nov 28, 2008

by angerbeet


Guni posted:

What's the best way to clean a cpu? I know 99% isopropyl is regarded as one of the best, but here in Australia apparently it is hard to get because people use it in the manufacturing of drugs, is there anything else that's decent? Also is a microfiber cloth best?
Use acetone instead.

m3monster
Jan 3, 2009


I just wanted to say thanks, this form was a great help when I was picking parts for my new build. I just got it finished and it is great.

Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid Tower Computer Case
ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77
Intel Core i5-3570K Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz
SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
EVGA 02G-P4-2676-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW LE 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0
Samsung 840 Pro Series 2.5-Inch 128 (OS Drive)
Western Digital WD 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk
Microsoft Windows 8 Pro

I did just want to say that time will tell but for now I am really happy with my Samsung 840 pro SSD, my system cold boots in 7 seconds or less. Thanks again.

LmaoTheKid
Oct 7, 2002

BA-DAH-DAH-DAH-DAHHH I'M LOVIN' IT


m3monster posted:

I just wanted to say thanks, this form was a great help when I was picking parts for my new build. I just got it finished and it is great.

Cooler Master HAF 912 - Mid Tower Computer Case
ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77
Intel Core i5-3570K Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz
SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
EVGA 02G-P4-2676-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW LE 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0
Samsung 840 Pro Series 2.5-Inch 128 (OS Drive)
Western Digital WD 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk
Microsoft Windows 8 Pro

I did just want to say that time will tell but for now I am really happy with my Samsung 840 pro SSD, my system cold boots in 7 seconds or less. Thanks again.

420 boot from non spinny disks erry day

(seriously, I'm begging my boss at work to let me slap one in my workstation because it's the last boot spindle I deal with)

Require More Fire
Feb 18, 2010

"Think of the deeds of hellish cruelty, the hidden wickedness which may go on, year in, year out, in such places, and none the wiser."

I'm having a hard time deciding between the i3 3220 and the i5 3570.

I've currently got an AMD Phenom II X4 920. It's a quad-core at 2.8ghz.

The cpu comparison charts linked in the OP show that both the 3220 and (obviously) the 3570 beat the 920, so either would be an upgrade.

But is the 3220 really a better chip going from quad to dual? The 3220 is more in my price range but I don't want to waste money on a CPU that's either not going to compare to my current setup. I'll bite the bullet and go with the 3570 if it's really the better way to go.

For reference, my rig is mostly for gaming. Along with the new CPU I'll be upgrading from 3GB of DDR2 to 8GB of DDR3, plus moving from Win 32 to Win 64-bit. I'm keeping my EVGA 460 for the time being; that'll probably be next year's upgrade.

P-Funk
Jan 7, 2001



Blaisedell posted:

I ordered this build in the end. Kind of think I should've gone with an overclocking CPU and motherboard. How important is overclocking generally for running games smoothly?
Depends on the game. I know PlanetSide 2 specifically benefits from overclocking a new i5, but other games like console ports probably won't matter at all.

Ragehaver
Jul 27, 2001

"Though I often smell of excrement, I deserve your respect because I provide a valuable service."

Require More Fire posted:

I'm having a hard time deciding between the i3 3220 and the i5 3570.

I've currently got an AMD Phenom II X4 920. It's a quad-core at 2.8ghz.

The cpu comparison charts linked in the OP show that both the 3220 and (obviously) the 3570 beat the 920, so either would be an upgrade.

But is the 3220 really a better chip going from quad to dual? The 3220 is more in my price range but I don't want to waste money on a CPU that's either not going to compare to my current setup. I'll bite the bullet and go with the 3570 if it's really the better way to go.

For reference, my rig is mostly for gaming. Along with the new CPU I'll be upgrading from 3GB of DDR2 to 8GB of DDR3, plus moving from Win 32 to Win 64-bit. I'm keeping my EVGA 460 for the time being; that'll probably be next year's upgrade.

If it's in your budget, get the i5. CPU-hungry games should get a nice boost out of it, although you won't see a big performance jump over the i3 on more GPU bound titles. The 460 is a bit old at this point, so with either chip, that'll be your bottleneck.

Budzilla
Oct 14, 2007

I do it because I love you.


Guni posted:

What's the best way to clean a cpu? I know 99% isopropyl is regarded as one of the best, but here in Australia apparently it is hard to get because people use it in the manufacturing of drugs, is there anything else that's decent? Also is a microfiber cloth best?

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm

Get that. Works a treat.

Wowporn
May 31, 2012

HarumphHarumphHarumph


Space Banditos just dropped the price on the gtx 570 he's selling in SA mart down to $175. I'd pick it up myself if I hadn't just found that 7850 I've ordered.

http://forums.somethingawful.com/sh...hreadid=3525637

Guni
Mar 11, 2010



Thanks! That's actually a lot cheaper than getting the other, more illusive isopropyl plus I can order my 212 at the same time! I've seen people mentioning nail polish remover and stuff to clean heat sinks/cpu's, now I don't know much but I thought poo poo like this would damage the CPU?

Job Truniht
Nov 7, 2012

MY POSTS ARE REAL RETARDED, SIR

Amazon is selling two 7970 models (MSI and XFX) for ~$300 at the moment. Is it worth forking over the extra cash for this deal?

InstantInfidel
Jan 8, 2010

BEST I EVER SPENT

Guni posted:

Thanks! That's actually a lot cheaper than getting the other, more illusive isopropyl plus I can order my 212 at the same time! I've seen people mentioning nail polish remover and stuff to clean heat sinks/cpu's, now I don't know much but I thought poo poo like this would damage the CPU?

The area onto which you apply the thermal paste is just the heat spreader. It's just a metal piece that covers the CPU; naturally, if you removed it and poured nail polish remover onto the actual chip itself, you'd be up poo poo creek.

Seashell Salesman
Aug 4, 2005


This is probably a dumb question, but I'm dumb at hardware so I'll ask anyway: is there a reason why the recommended performance gaming system in the OP specifies DDR3-1333 (rather than 1600 or whichever other kind)? This one seems well regarded and cheap, would it be a bad fit for the performance gaming build?

Bumpy Johnson
Oct 9, 2012



Seconding the suggestion of ArtiClean. Just make sure you use it in a well-ventilated area; the smell is fine (it smells faintly of citrus), but it definitely lingers and can be a bit much.

Guni
Mar 11, 2010


InstantInfidel posted:

The area onto which you apply the thermal paste is just the heat spreader. It's just a metal piece that covers the CPU; naturally, if you removed it and poured nail polish remover onto the actual chip itself, you'd be up poo poo creek.

Oh woops! That's one thing I havent done yet, that makes me feel a lot easier about cleaning it and what I do use, because of course they're out of stock of arcticlean - despite sending me a confirmation email

Bummo
Jan 12, 2004

Dr Spike Rush
Hypoman
Bust Him
Destroy Secret Lab


Factory Factory posted:

That's pretty solid. With coding, video, and photo in the mix, I wouldn't call it crazy to go straight to 16GB of RAM and/or spend an extra couple dollars for DDR3-1600 stuff, but it's not required, either.

If your desktop will be more than one room away from your router, I'd recommend an Intel Centrino 6205 for Desktops adapter. They're absolutely fantastic in laptops (I have one in my ThinkPad) because they get full-strength signals when many single-antenna adapters struggle to maintain a connection, and the desktop version doesn't seem to be an exception.

Following up on your suggestion to get 16GB of RAM, I've been looking at these two:

CORSAIR Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Kingston HyperX Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)

On paper they look the same and I can't find any meaningful comparisons on Google. Are either brand preferred over the other or should I just go with whatever is least expensive?


Is there anything I need to worry about in terms of compatibility with an Asus P8Z77-v LE motherboard beside that the RAM is 240 pin and at a supported speed (1600)?

Guni
Mar 11, 2010


Guni posted:

Oh woops! That's one thing I havent done yet, that makes me feel a lot easier about cleaning it and what I do use, because of course they're out of stock of arcticlean - despite sending me a confirmation email

Is household 'cloudy amonia' OK to clean it?

Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

I can do sex. It's just alien sex.


Get whichever is cheaper. As long as you aren't getting Granny Bumlover's Discount Debranded DIMMs, RAM is entirely commodity. The actual DRAM chips may well be the same, since Corsair buys commodity DRAM to repackage and Kingston sells commodity DRAM to repackagers.

Overture
Jun 9, 2003

It takes an idiot to do cool things, that's why it's cool.

I'm getting very close to pulling the trigger on the following rig (tonight hopefully). The purpose of this computer will be 100% gaming. I've followed the suggested parts list from the OP pretty much to the dot, along with a few suggestions from other guides on the net (Toms, TechReport, etc). I'd just like to make sure I'm not making any mistakes, as well as ask a few questions.

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Intel 330 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Antec Neo Eco 520W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor
Total: $1200

- I have additional storage, so I didn't include a non-SSD drive. Also have a DVD burner, wireless card, and Windows 8.

Questions:

1. If I don't plan to overclock the CPU immediately, I'm guessing I don't need an aftermarket CPU cooler?
2. Is there anything else I need to buy to literally build this sucker and start playing games the second I receive everything? Parts? Tools other than a screwdriver?
3. Any changes to the build?

Overture fucked around with this message at Jan 7, 2013 around 08:04

Guni
Mar 11, 2010


Overture posted:

I'm getting very close to pulling the trigger on the following rig (tonight hopefully). The purpose of this computer will be 100% gaming. I've followed the suggested parts list from the OP pretty much to the dot, along with a few suggestions from other guides on the net (Toms, TechReport, etc). I'd just like to make sure I'm not making any mistakes, as well as ask a few questions.

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Intel 330 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Antec Neo Eco 520W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor
Total: $1085.91

- I have additional storage, so I didn't include a non-SSD drive. Also have a DVD burner, wireless card, and Windows 8.

Questions:

1. If I don't plan to overclock the CPU immediately, I'm guessing I don't need an aftermarket CPU cooler?
2. Is there anything else I need to buy to literally build this sucker and start playing games the second I receive everything? Parts? Tools other than a screwdriver?
3. Any changes to the build?

Everything looks pretty solid, regarding (1) IMHO I would get the cooler now, why wait to do it? I'm upgrading my stock fan to a hyper 212EVO and it's not that much effort (still in the process of doing it as we speak) but it'll probably take you an hour or so to do later on, in which you'll have to take your mobo out (at least I did), if you can afford it definitely get it now, if not no sweat. (2)As far as I'm aware you won't really need any other tools besides a screwdriver. (3) Nothing looks out of place to me.

Fano
Oct 20, 2010


Overture posted:

Questions:

1. If I don't plan to overclock the CPU immediately, I'm guessing I don't need an aftermarket CPU cooler?

You'll probably save yourself a headache later on when you do feel like overclocking if you install an aftermarket cooler now. I had to slide out my motherboard to install my hyper 212+ and it was a real pain since I basically had to unplug and reassemble everything after I was done, I had to do it this way though since I picked up the cooler about a year after I built my system.

If you plan to overclock in the near future, I would say get it and install it when you first build your machine, while the stock cooler works just fine there's nothing wrong with having lower temps and having the luxury of simply deciding to overclock by booting into your BIOS without having to tinker inside your case is always nice.

P-Funk
Jan 7, 2001



InstantInfidel posted:

The area onto which you apply the thermal paste is just the heat spreader. It's just a metal piece that covers the CPU; naturally, if you removed it and poured nail polish remover onto the actual chip itself, you'd be up poo poo creek.
Derail but I'm reasonably sure acetone doesn't react with silicon at normal temperatures. I know I used it at least a couple times on bare-die Athlon XPs. It's also an incredibly effective solvent for thermal goop. Acetone->alcohol wipe never let me down.

psyman
Nov 1, 2008





Whatever dude, maybe some people care about how futuristic the inside of their computer looks?. Did you ever think about that, hmm Mr. Know-It-All?



Gonna be rocking this kickin' rad setup

Bummo
Jan 12, 2004

Dr Spike Rush
Hypoman
Bust Him
Destroy Secret Lab


For those that have bought the Fractal Design Define R4, what interface does the front panel USB 3.0 use? Will I need something like this in order to connect it directly to the motherboard? I know some cases have you route the front panel connectors though the back of the case to connect to a PCI adapter and would like to avoid this.

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uhhhhahhhhohahhh
Oct 9, 2012


Bummo posted:

For those that have bought the Fractal Design Define R4, what interface does the front panel USB 3.0 use? Will I need something like this in order to connect it directly to the motherboard? I know some cases have you route the front panel connectors though the back of the case to connect to a PCI adapter and would like to avoid this.

It has a proper connector, exactly like the wide blue one from that converter. Mine just went straight onto the pins on my motherboard.

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