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Bummo posted:For those that have bought the Fractal Design Define R4, what interface does the front panel USB 3.0 use? Will I need something like this in order to connect it directly to the motherboard? I know some cases have you route the front panel connectors though the back of the case to connect to a PCI adapter and would like to avoid this. No, the Fractal's USB 3.0 ports have a motherboard header cable.
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 14:15 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 09:00 |
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Bummo posted:For those that have bought the Fractal Design Define R4, what interface does the front panel USB 3.0 use? Will I need something like this in order to connect it directly to the motherboard? I know some cases have you route the front panel connectors though the back of the case to connect to a PCI adapter and would like to avoid this. It uses a 19-pin connector to a USB 3.0 motherboard header. Basically take a traditional USB header and make it twice as long. If you're wondering, most modern boards (at least 7-series motherboards; I don't know if current 6-series boards do but my last board didn't, and I don't care about AMD motherboards) will have at least one USB 3.0 header. There are adapters for boards with only USB 2.0 headers, but you'll also reduce the ports to USB 2.0 speed.
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 14:15 |
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Is "Silver Power" an acceptable PSU brand? If not, could someone recommend me a brand out of the ones they have here: http://www.komplett.no/k/kc.aspx?bn=10057 Thanks.
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 16:36 |
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Neslepaks posted:Is "Silver Power" an acceptable PSU brand? The OP has a list.
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 16:44 |
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Crackbone posted:The OP has a list. Yes, I saw that, but the brands that seem to be chiefly recommended by the OP (Seasonic, Antec) aren't available. This is why I'm asking.
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 16:50 |
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Neslepaks posted:Yes, I saw that, but the brands that seem to be chiefly recommended by the OP (Seasonic, Antec) aren't available. This is why I'm asking. It specifically mentions Corsair (non-builder) and XFX as well.
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 16:57 |
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Better XFX than that silvery thing then, gotcha. Thanks.
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 17:09 |
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Neslepaks posted:Is "Silver Power" an acceptable PSU brand? I figured I'd save you time, since we already burned a post. The XFX ProSeries is a better choice than the Corsair TX on price. They're both Seasonic, more power than you'll ever need, and not modular, though - so it's whether you think Corsair's support is worth the extra  .The Corsair AX is able to power your entire house, but at three times the cost of the ProSeries (400 dollars sweet jesus) it's almost impossible to justify.
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 17:13 |
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Just ordered. This is the final build I went with if anyone wants to critique or get ideas: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($204.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LX ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($124.99 @ NCIX US) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($73.74 @ NCIX US) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($91.33 @ Amazon) Storage: Intel 520 Series Cherryville 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($137.67 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB Video Card ($279.99 @ Newegg) Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($27.00 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair C70 Military Green (Green) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Antec Neo Eco 520W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: Dell U2312HM 23.0" Monitor ($268.98 @ Newegg) Keyboard: Das Keyboard Model S Professional Wired Standard Keyboard ($124.99 @ Newegg) Mouse: Razer DeathAdder Wired Optical Mouse ($49.91 @ Amazon) Total: $1548.57 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-07 12:57 EST-0500) Thanks everyone for the help!
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 17:57 |
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This is my current plan for my first build, please tell me if I hosed up something. Corsair Carbide 500R Midi Tower Corsair SSD Force Series GT 120GB 2.5" Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 GHz 3GB GDDR5 IntelŽ Core i5-3570k Processor Cooler Master Hyper 212 CPU Cooler XFX ProSeries Core Edition 550W PSU ASUS P8Z77-V, Socket-1155 Motherboard Kingston DDR3 HyperX 1600MHz 16GB RAM Seagate BarracudaŽ 2TB HDD e: vvv Thanks 
Seizureman fucked around with this message at Jan 7, 2013 around 19:51 |
| # ? Jan 7, 2013 19:02 |
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Seizureman posted:This is my current plan for my first build, please tell me if I hosed up something. You're buying a Z77 mobo and non-K CPU. It will work but you're wasting money. If you want to overclock: Z77 + K chip, if not, H77 + non-K. Heatsink: Hyper 212. No reason to pay more.
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| # ? Jan 7, 2013 19:30 |
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Are there any super thin quiet VGA coolers? The XFX 7750 card I have is pretty loud, I was originally going to replace the CPU heatsink but a quick test found the fan on the graphics card is significantly louder. This is a SFF build and a replacement heatsink has to be the exact same thickness/height. Edit: Measured and I have about 30mm of clearance from the breadboard to the side of the case. The Accelero S2 has a width of 31mm so it might work, there's a vent on that side of the case but I'm not sure how well passive cooling would work. Ashex fucked around with this message at Jan 7, 2013 around 23:45 |
| # ? Jan 7, 2013 23:32 |
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LLJKSiLk posted:Just ordered. This is the final build I went with if anyone wants to critique or get ideas: Went with. I mean, most of the stuff on your list was good choices, but it's hard to choose a not-PCI-Express sound card these days (especially when you don't have any idea how long old-timey PCI will be around), although I guess saving 15 bucks over an actual PCI-E part was important, and Razer is the kind of company that forces you to make an account and let them snoop on your environment if you want to configure your mouse in any way. (Unfortunately I can't find the original thread with, you know, actual replies, but the links are still valid.) Sir Unimaginative fucked around with this message at Jan 8, 2013 around 06:16 |
| # ? Jan 8, 2013 06:13 |
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So I got a really stupid question. I put together a new computer a few months ago, i3,8gb,7700. I just got my new monitor today. I want to have a dual monitor set up. Does that mean I need to buy another video card and have each monitor plugged into a card? I just want to game on my main new monitor, and use my old 2nd monitor for web browser / watching netflix or something.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 07:06 |
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I've got a system that's ~5 years old, and it's starting to show it's age. It runs pretty well now, but I'll be looking to upgrade in the next year or so. My essential question is this: do I rebuild from scratch, or do I try to upgrade? What I want to do: Aside from daily productivity, I use the system for gaming (CS:S, TF2, Deus Ex: Human Revolution, XCOM, among others), and the occasional media editing task (non-professional, Adobe Photoshop/Premiere). I'd like to run things on decently high settings (using Asus V228 monitor at 1920x1080). My current set-up: Motherboard: ASUS M2N4-SLI (DirectX 9.0, grrr) Processor: AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ RAM: 4GB DDR2 Video Card: nVidia GeForce 7950 GT 512MB HDD: 2x 250GB Hard Drives, Raid-0 (Striped) OS: Windows 7 32-bit (grrr) Thoughts? Some of that is upgraded from the original (RAM, OS), and I'm also running a soundcard (ASUS Xonar DG) to run my sweet KRK headphones. Sorry, off topic. Anyway, worth going to a new case (which I probably should, since this one has annoying LED lights and one dying fan...) and all new parts, or just swapping out mobo/CPU/GPU?
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 07:07 |
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Twinkie Fat Sac posted:So I got a really stupid question. Your card should have more than one port, you can plug a second monitor to it without any impact on game performance (assuming you stick to gaming on one monitor). If your second monitor is an older one you might have to get an adapter that does VGA->DVI.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 07:44 |
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Almost everything gotta go. Hit the OP and put together something your wallet won't protest too much over. Keep the OS (but download the 64-bit version (with SP1) for your license key - as in Home Premium, Professional, etc.; yes, it's legit) and make sure the motherboard you get has at least one not-Express PCI slot because you have one of the very few sound cards worth keeping, but otherwise you're pretty much building a new computer from scratch. Sir Unimaginative fucked around with this message at Jan 8, 2013 around 07:57 |
| # ? Jan 8, 2013 07:54 |
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Well, drat. I saw that coming, though. 5 years is a drat long time. Probably won't happen for about 6 months, but I wanted to check in and find out before I started drooling over computer parts on newegg to update myself. Thanks!
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 08:09 |
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A small question, but I'd like to upgrade from my old-rear end HD4870 chipset card to a newer one. I'm thinking of going with the 7870, but should I wait for the HD8000 serires to come out so the prices drop?
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 08:20 |
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Sir Unimaginative posted:and Razer is the kind of company that forces you to make an account and let them snoop on your environment if you want to configure your mouse in any way. (Unfortunately I can't find the original thread with, you know, actual replies, but the links are still valid.) I don't know, the DeathAdder is a really great mouse, and I feel like the whole Synapse thing was blown out of proportion. Obviously it's not ideal, but with the offline mode I'd probably be willing to put up with it and get a new DeathAdder whenever my current one dies.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 09:20 |
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BeefSupreme posted:Well, drat. I saw that coming, though. 5 years is a drat long time. Probably won't happen for about 6 months, but I wanted to check in and find out before I started drooling over computer parts on newegg to update myself. Thanks!
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 10:01 |
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Any thoughts on the i5 3470? Saw some good reviews on it online and Newegg has a sale on it for $184.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 13:22 |
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Xerxes17 posted:A small question, but I'd like to upgrade from my old-rear end HD4870 chipset card to a newer one. I'm thinking of going with the 7870, but should I wait for the HD8000 serires to come out so the prices drop? No. We have no solid idea when the 8000 series will launch, and we have no idea of price/performance, so there's no way to predict what if any kind of price drops you'd see. It's really not worth holding off an unknown period of time for an unknown discount for a card that will now be an unknown amount less powerful than the new generation.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 13:54 |
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TheEye posted:I don't know, the DeathAdder is a really great mouse, and I feel like the whole Synapse thing was blown out of proportion. Obviously it's not ideal, but with the offline mode I'd probably be willing to put up with it and get a new DeathAdder whenever my current one dies. Tired of seeing this as well. Almost every programmable device has you sign into some sort of service to program special functions. I can't even use my Logitech remotes without activating them and logging in to configure it. Same with my ipod, ipad, and everything else I buy these days. I don't know who started the hysteria behind it all, but I'm guessing they're wearing tinfoil and mumbling about chemtrails in some dark cave in bumblefuck Montana.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 16:07 |
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Went with. I can't really defend either choice beyond each being the result of a 15 minute span of seeing what was available and well-reviewed. I was originally going to use the onboard sound, but the sound card was well-reviewed and I was pairing it with a surround capable headset, so figured it wouldn't hurt to throw something on. As long as I've got a PCI slot it is no biggie as I will never move the card to another system in the future. As for the Razer, that was based on customer reviews as well as the size/shape of the mouse as it relates to my hand (larger hand that makes a lot of mice uncomfortable). I was aware of the software, but wasn't really that concerned. Thanks for the comments though. I am looking forward to the build, and these two parts were the only things I felt questionable about (The mouse primarily since I've never owned a gaming mouse) so will definitely update if either is an issue.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 18:35 |
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Require More Fire posted:Any thoughts on the i5 3470? Saw some good reviews on it online and Newegg has a sale on it for $184. I did a bunch of research before buying one last week along with an ASRock Z77 PRO4. It was between a 3470 and a 3570K. Everything I read said that for hardcore overclockers, the 3570K was better. I'm not, so I chose the 3470. I overclocked it to 36X with the stock heatsink the moment I got it (super easy to do in the BIOS), and everything is great. It's supposed to give about the same performance as a non-OCed 3570K.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 18:44 |
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Just put in my new 670 and 1TB drive... and now I'm posting from my iPhone. Uh oh. BIOS POST and load is slow, especially looking for drives. Disconnected them all, still slow. Is a 750W PSU enough for a 1GB 670 8GB and 2500K? Edit: Just threw my old card in. Same thing is happening. Uh oh. Edit 2: it was the IDE to SATA adapter on my porn hard drive. Curse you, Mandy Morbid! Revol fucked around with this message at Jan 8, 2013 around 21:39 |
| # ? Jan 8, 2013 21:28 |
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Fano posted:Your card should have more than one port, you can plug a second monitor to it without any impact on game performance (assuming you stick to gaming on one monitor). The video card only has 1 slot to plug something into. On the motherboard there is a dvi and a vga plug. So does that mean I need 2 video cards? Because im pretty sure my mobo wont be able to fit another card as is a micro board and my current video card is ginormous. my video card is a radeon 7770. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16814127664 Twinkie Fat Sac fucked around with this message at Jan 8, 2013 around 22:06 |
| # ? Jan 8, 2013 22:03 |
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Twinkie Fat Sac posted:The video card only has 1 slot to plug something into. On the motherboard there is a dvi and a vga plug. If your motherboard has a dvi/vga plug I think that means that it will support a monitor and display it using on-board graphics, which is perfectly fine for your purposes, try it out. Also according to newegg the 7770 does have extra slots for HDMI and Mini-DisplayPort, but if your monitor doesn't have those then the first option should still work. Fano fucked around with this message at Jan 8, 2013 around 22:17 |
| # ? Jan 8, 2013 22:15 |
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Well I tried plugging the cords in but the 2nd monitor doesnt get detected. It gives the option of running it on my main new monitor, or display it on vga, but under that option everything is greyed out and I cant really pick any options in any of the scroll menus. My new monitor is plugged into the back of the video card with a white dvi cord. My old monitor I plugged into the mobo trying both the white dvi and the blue vga. Do I need to use both of those cords at the same time? or do I only need 1 of them? Sorry if I suck at trying to explain wtf im doing.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 22:21 |
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Twinkie Fat Sac posted:The video card only has 1 slot to plug something into. On the motherboard there is a dvi and a vga plug. Just use the 7770's HDMI out for the second monitor. http://www.amazon.com/DVI-HDMI-Cabl...e/dp/B0002CZHN6
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 22:22 |
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Ragehaver posted:Just use the 7770's HDMI out for the second monitor. Since I am impatient and I have a best buy a few blocks down the street, I could just walk into the store, ask a guy for a dvi > hdmi cable and id be good to go? Would I take the new cable, plug the dvi into the back of my old monitor, then plug the hdmi plug into the video card? is this gonna destroy my performance or anything? like I said earlier, I just want to game on my main new monitor, and use my old 2nd monitor to browse the web / watch netflix and poo poo
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 22:31 |
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Twinkie Fat Sac posted:Since I am impatient and I have a best buy a few blocks down the street, I could just walk into the store, ask a guy for a dvi > hdmi cable and id be good to go? Would I take the new cable, plug the dvi into the back of my old monitor, then plug the hdmi plug into the video card? Yeah, that's how it works. Did you check the package for an adapter? Sometimes they include them. Best Buy - I guess, if they have it. Radioshack might be better if that's an option. Don't pay more than $15. If Best Buy has it, I bet it's $40+. It will have basically no effect on performance, unless you're trying to game on both screens.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 22:42 |
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Just out of curiosity, I'm looking over cases (specifically those referenced in the Quick Picks in the OP), and failing to see much difference in micro-ATX and ATX cases, other than form factor. I believe the OP also says micro-ATX boards are just as good as full-sized ATX boards, so is there a particular reason to go with a mid-tower rather than a mini?
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 22:56 |
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mATX cases are smaller and max out at 2-3 expansion cards (assuming at least double-width video). For most people, that's all they need. ATX cases are larger and offer three more expansion slots, for those numbskulls who must have two video cards and an expansion or somesuch. Or who need eight hard drive bays and four optical bays instead of five and two. That's it. Smaller vs. slightly more expansion. Most systems don't need the larger size.
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| # ? Jan 8, 2013 23:13 |
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Philthy posted:Tired of seeing this as well. Almost every programmable device has you sign into some sort of service to program special functions. I can't even use my Logitech remotes without activating them and logging in to configure it. Same with my ipod, ipad, and everything else I buy these days. The whole point of iOS and Android devices is their apps. At least with Android you aren't absolutely stuck with Google or Amazon for them, but the idea of having such a thing and not having an account with the company store, as it were, is borderline unimaginable - unless you simply forgo the devices. (I suppose people who just want to read their Totally Legit PDFs are somewhat put out these days, but based on reader sales before the iPad, I'm not really sure they were ever a thing.) Smart remotes can't really store all the TVs and receivers and whatever locally, because you'd have to update product databases like antivirus signatures or adblock lists. Also having online configuration acts as a hedge against a glitch in the remote, and against user error. Why they can't tie it to the device rather than an account, I have no idea. What do you get in exchange for a mandatory activation - complete with a license agreement with loopholes big enough to drive a terminal logger through and get away with it in court - of a keyboard or mouse, devices which most other gaming-parts manufacturers manage to improve to similar degrees beyond what plug-and-play can do without ever needing to touch the internet? Because storing profiles in the cloud is a far cry from a fair exchange, and their manual offline mode has done nothing to counteract that. So yes, I think Razer is a particularly bad manufacturer, that does nothing unique, and that for all their PR they've done nothing to actually justify restored confidence. quote:I don't know who started the hysteria behind it all, but I'm guessing they're wearing tinfoil and mumbling about chemtrails in some dark cave in bumblefuck Montana. Classy! Sir Unimaginative fucked around with this message at Jan 8, 2013 around 23:42 |
| # ? Jan 8, 2013 23:36 |
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so I went to best buy and found an open box for 22$. Both monitors turned on, but all I get is a black screen with a flashing -. Any idea what I need to do to get it to boot to the regular screens? Ok I got both screens to turn on and on my main screen got it so I have my desktop, but the 2nd monitor is just a blank window. How exactly do I make it so I can open up a browser or something? Do I need to have both screens showing my desktop, as that could get a bit annoying seeing my mouse on both monitors moving around and whatnot. Ok I think I figured it all out now. Just a question, am I just going to have to get used to watching my mouse so it doesnt go onto the 2nd screen when im gaming, or is there a way to make it so when I am playing a game moving the mouse to the edge of the screen wont cause it to go to the other monitor. Twinkie Fat Sac fucked around with this message at Jan 9, 2013 around 00:29 |
| # ? Jan 8, 2013 23:55 |
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How much of a upgrade are the newer intel CPUs coming out vs the ones out now. I can wait, till march. Just not sure the price difference.
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| # ? Jan 9, 2013 00:17 |
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mpyro posted:How much of a upgrade are the newer intel CPUs coming out vs the ones out now. I can wait, till march. Just not sure the price difference. Intel chips historical debut at the same price as the old equivalent versions debuted out. The old ones will stay the same price.
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| # ? Jan 9, 2013 00:23 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 09:00 |
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mpyro posted:How much of a upgrade are the newer intel CPUs coming out vs the ones out now. I can wait, till march. Just not sure the price difference. Haswell's overclocking ability at this point is the biggest unknown. It could be a monster or a letdown like Ivy Bridge was, especially if they keep using thermal paste inside the heatspreader lid.
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| # ? Jan 9, 2013 02:43 |
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