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Exterior says 96 and earlier, steering column plastic says 95 and later. If you show me a picture of the transfer case rear output, ECU, cat (looking from behind), fuel rail supply line hookup, fuel level sender or its connector, MAP sensor, power steering pump, or serp belt routing diagram I can tell you whether it is a 95 or a 96  The stickers, dummy gauges, low miles, rear wiper delete, and lack of roof rack make me think city utility vehicle or railroad. Probably the former, I would assume the railroad would want 4x4. Any sign of radio installs or removed antennas on the roof? That would be a dead giveaway.
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Aug 6, 2014 12:15
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It has a pre-OBD2 smog sticker on it, so there's a very small chance it's a 96 or newer - though it was smogged by the previous owner (easy giveaway: inspection expires 10/4, registration was issued with the new plates and expires 7/15). I'm pretty sure he said it's a 94 or 95. Could you even order these without power steering? The only options I've seen have been a radio, cloth seats, and automatic transmission (and I haven't looked close enough to see if it's even the original radio - last night is the first time I've seen the interior, and it was dark - just wanted an odometer photo). I've never even seen one with a rear wiper delete. He's up for tackling some issues on it (all pretty minor stuff aside from a swiss cheese exhaust), and frankly, I'd like to work on it. If it was a city vehicle, i've never seen one with those reflective stickers on the back. Nor have I seen such a stripped down model with cloth seats; I'm used to seeing vinyl.
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Aug 6, 2014 13:05
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iForge posted:God drat, parties at Kastein's place look so loving fun. I swear to god we will do everything in our power to drag the volvo and 5 ton out to the east coast just to party at Kastein's place.
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Aug 6, 2014 18:21
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Doccers posted:I swear to god we will do everything in our power to drag the volvo and 5 ton out to the east coast just to party at Kastein's place. Put the volvo in the back of the 5 ton and 
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Aug 6, 2014 21:38
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So instead of lighting things on fire in Kastein's backyard the party would consist of lighting things on fire whilst driving down unimproved dirt roads in the back of ex-military trucks.
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Aug 6, 2014 22:05
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Ex-military? Oh come now, I'm sure we have plenty of TFR/GiP/AI crossover
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Aug 7, 2014 04:39
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some texas redneck posted:Could you even order these without power steering? The only options I've seen have been a radio, cloth seats, and automatic transmission (and I haven't looked close enough to see if it's even the original radio - last night is the first time I've seen the interior, and it was dark - just wanted an odometer photo). I've never even seen one with a rear wiper delete. Looked closer today while parked. It actually does have factory a/c, and the factory AM/FM radio. kastein posted:The stickers, dummy gauges, low miles, rear wiper delete, and lack of roof rack make me think city utility vehicle or railroad. Probably the former, I would assume the railroad would want 4x4. Any sign of radio installs or removed antennas on the roof? That would be a dead giveaway. Found 4 self-tapping sheet metal screw holes on the roof near the hatch hinges, plus a plugged hole (about 1"?). Looks like it had a (very light) light bar. I didn't get a chance to look at the rest, since I was between orders at work. I'm gonna guess some kind kind of city, county, village, etc type.
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Aug 7, 2014 12:09
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some texas redneck posted:It has a pre-OBD2 smog sticker on it, so there's a very small chance it's a 96 or newer - though it was smogged by the previous owner (easy giveaway: inspection expires 10/4, registration was issued with the new plates and expires 7/15). I'm pretty sure he said it's a 94 or 95. The steering column plastic definitively marks it as a 95 or 96, they only used that style for those two years, so it's definitely a 95 then. 94s and earlier had a round GM steering column. You could get them without power steering in the 80s but I think it was not an option by 91 or so.
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Aug 7, 2014 13:54
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Hey Ken, You recommend a 91-95 rear drive shaft from a 4x4 4.0 AW4 w/8.25 for my 2001 8.25 swap. After striking out at junkyards, I found a jeep place that has a bunch of shafts, but it's an hour away and they wanna know the length before I drive out there. It's going in my 88 xj with 4x4/4.0/AW4/np231, replacing the D35c 3.55. Thanks mang.
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Aug 7, 2014 20:31
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I honestly don't know - everyone measures driveshafts differently and I don't have one around to measure, nor do I trust internet sources of info for that because jeep owners measuring driveshafts tend to be idiot rednecks and I have no idea if they measured "right". You want the one with part number 5300 5008 (factory app: 87-90 4.0/AW4/4x4/d44, 91-92 4.0/AW4/4x4/8.25), 5209 8205 (factory app: 93-94 4.0/AW4/4x4/8.25), or 5209 9059 (factory app: 95 4.0/AW4/4x4/8.25.) I know there were two different pinion yoke lengths (3 inches and 2.75 inches) for the 8.25 and that the split was sometime in the 94/95/96 range, but not sure exactly when. I suspect between 94 and 95 due to the 95 driveshaft being a different part number... 1/4" isn't going to make a difference though, IMO. I find it interesting that they literally used the same driveshaft for 87-90 44 builds and 91-92 8.25 builds. It's well known in the XJ community that they have the same-ish pinion length, and that the same driveshafts fit, but I didn't know it was official factory gospel.
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Aug 7, 2014 21:14
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Beach Bum posted:Ex-military? Oh come now, I'm sure we have plenty of TFR/GiP/AI crossover ??  Super heavy duty bumper and D-rings courtesy of the OP. edit: hell pretty much all of it is. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Aug 7, 2014 |
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Aug 7, 2014 22:07
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Thanks for the info, I had kind of gathered that the whole measurement thing was... abstract.
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Aug 7, 2014 23:18
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I tore the front brakes off my Forester intending to put it all back together with new ones, only to discover that working on Subaru brakes loving sucks. 3 of the 4 caliper slide pins were solidly seized in place because I am the first owner to do any maintenance on it. One of the 4 caliper bracket bolts rounded off due to rust, then twisted off when I solved the problem by hammering a 16mm socket on instead of a 17mm. The remaining stub (M12x1.25, because gently caress YOU) was very solidly seized in place even after pounding on the broken end to break up the rust and remove any residual rust-packed preload friction on the threads. Couldn't find a torch, left my O/A setup at home. gently caress.  Had a 100 amp fluxcore welder with me though...  Awwww yeah. gently caress you, bolt.  VICTORY  Vengeance is mine; I shall repay. Of course then I discovered the slide pin holes are badly corroded and I don't want to try and clean them out so I threw money at the problem anyways, 82 bucks at the parts store for two brand new brackets. Once I pick up the new caliper bracket bolts at the dealer tonight it gets new rotors, pads, caliper brackets and bolts, slides, boots, and bleeders. All I have to say is gently caress this thing, this would have been a 20 minute process with no broken bolts on an XJ with one wrench and a lug wrench. Oh well, my MPGs! 
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Aug 13, 2014 14:16
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kastein posted:All I have to say is gently caress this thing, this would have been a 20 minute process with no broken bolts on an XJ with one wrench and a lug wrench. Oh well, my MPGs! What kind of mpg are you pulling with the forester? I suppose you have one hell of a commute, but is it really that much better than the XJ? Because I also have a beater outback that struggles to hit 25mpg, and the jeep can get 21 or 22mpg. Though I'll admit that I drive the subaru way more calmly than the XJ as the subie is a) an auto and b) completely gutless.
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Aug 13, 2014 21:53
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I was getting 16mpg in the XJ commuting at ~80. Not sure why, but it was falling apart around me, I'm done with XJs except as parts donors for MJs, and MJs don't have covered storage. I got 24mpg in the Forester on the first drive, which was ~80 over the Taconic and Berkshire mountain ranges on 6 month old gas, immediately after resurrecting the thing, with the ECU having not learned a tune properly yet and injectors for a high compression 2.5L running a low compression 2.2L engine (MAP tuned, so it's probably trimmed full lean trying to compensate, if it's trying to compensate at all.) I figure I should probably hit 26-28 doing 70-75 with proper injectors and good gas not driving through the loving mountains. It is deadly boring and gutless however. Probably good, because it keeps me from wanting to hammer down and pass anyone/everyone. As for the commute... 140 miles round trip. It's not that bad because 95% of it is highway and I have a radio. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Aug 13, 2014 |
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Aug 13, 2014 23:23
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If it could be done cheaply enough, probably would help a little if you swapped the 4.11 trans and rear diff out for a 3.9 like in the Impreza TS as well. Low rolling resistance tires also helped me but man it was hard to preserve inertia on corners. I thought EJ25D and EJ22 injectors were the same part number but I don't know for EJ251 heads so it may well be bigger on that car. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Aug 13, 2014 |
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Aug 13, 2014 23:27
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I went from a 4.11 to 3.9 and yeah it's noticeable on the highway. On all highway trips I hit 400 miles on the trip computer before I have to fill up. That and a freshened up engine with all new everything helps too.
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Aug 13, 2014 23:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it could be done cheaply enough, probably would help a little if you swapped the 4.11 trans and rear diff out for a 3.9 like in the Impreza TS as well. They might be, it's not much of a difference displacement wise - the difference could be in the ECU firmware. In which case I'm SOL without a custom tune, which doesn't exist for NA 00-04s... so I could ghetto it with an FPR or get to work on the spare NA ECU I have had around for like a year now due to wanting to hack it for a plane engine build. Hmmm. This thing is gutless enough with the gearing it has right now, so I'm kinda tempted to keep it, even if it means somewhat worse fuel economy. I'd also rather hammer nails into my leg than do a rear diff and tranny swap on this stupid thing right now.
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Aug 13, 2014 23:53
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Hell, it might not be a bad idea to chuck an LC-1 in there and actually see how it's running. I'm willing to bet it's pretty close to factory. Expense it at work and borrow it for a weekend.
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Aug 14, 2014 00:23
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Delicious charges 300+ for an ecu tune, if you could manage to crack those things you could make some $$$$$.
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Aug 14, 2014 00:30
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I can't expense unjustified things Good to know about the ECU tuning being worth money... hmmmmmmmm. Got my brake caliper bracket bolts, now if this drat rain would just let up I could install them.
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Aug 14, 2014 01:32
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Brakes reassembled, in spite of the rain. gently caress that silly rear end design. I think the B5 A4 brakes I worked on were less stupid. Next up: rust repairs, ????? Probably exhaust. The stock one is holding on by a thread and there are a few holes in the fenders.
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Aug 14, 2014 03:06
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kastein posted:gently caress that silly rear end design. I think the B5 A4 brakes I worked on were less stupid. What you're saying is that you need to swap B5 A4 brakes onto the foz.
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Aug 14, 2014 05:56
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kastein posted:Brakes reassembled, in spite of the rain. The Legacy brakes where you have to stick the socket through the hole on the rears are worse.
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Aug 14, 2014 13:45
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daslog posted:The Legacy brakes where you have to stick the socket through the hole on the rears are worse. what kind of loving idiot designs something like that... ... oh. I swear to god I will find a way to swap ford mustang/explorer/CV rear discs onto this drat thing before I put myself through pain of that variety.
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Aug 14, 2014 14:15
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kastein posted:what kind of loving idiot designs something like that... I have the whole back half of a disk brake car....
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Aug 14, 2014 14:24
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It passed safety inspection!  Failed emissions but I have 60 days to get it to pass. It just failed because most of the monitors weren't ready yet since the battery went dead Thursday night and reset the ECU. So then I ended up doing work on the rest of the family's cars. This is the AI version of the YOSPOS "no I won't fix your computer, Mom" complaint. First we took a look at my dad's Ranger, 4.0 V6 vin K (flexfuel) automatic 4x4. The same one I've welded patches onto in multiple places. It needs bodywork (nothing picky, it's all rot holes at the front of the bed and he has a drop-in bedliner. NO FUCKS GIVEN BOOGER WELD ALL THE THINGS) and plug wires or a coil pack. Next up was my mom's Explorer, 4.0 V6 vin K (flexfuel) automatic 4x4. Definitely needs a muffler/tailpipe, the driver upper front balljoint is squawking and the driver front swaybar link is broken. Parts ordered, replacing the whole arm, balljoint, bushings, bushing mount bar as a unit, both swaybar links, farming the exhaust out to a local shop because it goes over the IRS setup and gently caress THAT. Then my uncle's 01 Tundra 4.7 V8 auto 4x4 showed up on a tow truck needing an alternator. Parts ordered, it looks like it'll be a bastard to get at, oh well. At least it isn't the starter. Yeah, it's that Toyota V8. Sister's 1980 Datsun 720 showed up on a tow truck too. It has been running lovely for like a year, she never told me, then it finally started backfiring and stalled out on her way to work so she had it towed. After some research it has an L20B engine and a Hitachi DCH340 carb. While poking around to identify the carb I do believe I've located the problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jg5mAXtFdGU Dad and I:  how the gently caress did this thing run... at all?Rebuild kit, carb base gasket, and float are 38 bucks shipped on rockauto so they're getting ordered tonight. Oh yeah, also managed to fix the overhead console clock in the Forester (common issue - a number of large SMT resistors come unsoldered. I'm considering starting a side biz rebuilding them), found a few issues with the starter wiring (cables are badly corroded and nearly broken at the ends) and mounted the aftermarket stereo properly since it was inset into the dash too far and flopping around. Surprisingly, I opened the dash and discovered the PPO had used proper adapter harnesses and crimps instead of butchering the dash harness and using duct tape/wirenuts, as I feared. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 15:58
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Welp, the Ranger farted out a brake pad friction slug today on the way to work (i.e. it's metal on metal now) so it looks like I'm dropping everything and doing brakes on that tonight, since my sister's truck is dead still, she's driving my Subaru, mom's Explorer is in the shop for exhaust right now, uncle's Tundra still needs an alternator... yeah it was the only not-hosed thing in the family aside from the Subaru today. I'm not sure if I like Just Empty Every Pocket or Fix Or Repair Daily problems more right now. Subaru is still sounding like the worlds angriest typewriter with a bit of marbles in a wooden box thrown in for good measure, but still running great. Need to bring it back to the inspection station for its emissions test soonish. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Aug 20, 2014 |
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Aug 20, 2014 16:04
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I did the timing belt on my 00 4x4 4.7 tundra last year, I don't recall the alternator removal being particularly difficult. Maybe a couple shared accessory mounting bolts. ... But then I'm not in the rust belt so maybe you are talking about something different. I didn't pay much attention to the starter location, now I'm scared to look.
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Aug 20, 2014 22:36
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The alternator is under the passenger side cylinder bank, at the front, driven by the belt and protected mostly by the IFS and front skids. The starter on the other hand IS INSIDE THE VALLEY AKA you're pulling off your TB, upper manifold, and lower manifold to get it out. $900-1500 service unless you do it. It's the same as that famed Lexus V8 starter job.
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Aug 20, 2014 22:48
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For whatever it's worth, you can pull the fan shroud and radiator in about 10 minutes. If that gets more clearance to get in there and avoid fighting it, I wouldn't hesitate to yank it out. And haha on the starter. Not gonna tap that one if the solenoid sticks
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Aug 21, 2014 01:01
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kastein posted:I'm not sure if I like Just Empty Every Pocket or Fix Or Repair Daily problems more right now. Subaru is still sounding like the worlds angriest typewriter with a bit of marbles in a wooden box thrown in for good measure, but still running great. Need to bring it back to the inspection station for its emissions test soonish. To be fair, that doesn't really sound like a Ford-related problem. RWD Fords are just like Jeeps, nothing major ever breaks, but every single loving pheriphrial part is made cheaply as poo poo and will just fail in small, annoying ways that barely leave the car running. Btw, I don't know if you ever managed to get the red crapcan back, but I end up traveling from CT to the Capitol Region every ~month or so, so I'd be able to give you a lift some weekend.
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Aug 21, 2014 03:42
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Thanks a ton for the offer, but the red shitbox is coming back on a trailer or not at all. gently caress that thing. So last night was a disaster. First: the Explorer. Upper control arm mounting studs fought me every step of the way. They were so rusted that the popping and jerking was resetting the direction pawl on my 3/4" ratchet every pull. I would have just cut the drat things off since the new one came with nuts but ford saw fit to hide the rustier one behind 3 brake lines and a frame bracket so no way to get an angle grinder on it. I won though, gently caress that thing. Then my sister, who was borrowing the subaru for an errand across town, called to say the parking brake light on it was on even with the brake off. Huh? Damnit, electrical issues to track down I guess. So I get the explorer all back together, it just needs an alignment. No big deal. Time for the ranger. Calipers come out, brackets come out, rotors and pads go in. Huh? Why won't this drat caliper compress? Oh great, the bore is rusted at the bottom, probably going to seize up. gently caress it, I gotta get this thing back together, so we push it in with a c clamp and get it on there. Other side went smoothly. Now time for the plug wires, which ford routed in the most asinine way possible and used stupid plastic clips on. Me, I would have just broken the clips and tossed em, but my dad is suuuuuper OCD about it so we had to Do It Right. 3 of the clips are hidden behind a vast array of firesleeved EGR tubes and manifolds. I finally manage to get it all apart and the new wires in, we take it for a test drive. Miraculously the caliper doesn't seize up on first use, but the misfire is still there and the plug wire swap was for nought. Oh well. Then the subaru gets back and it is pissing brake fluid from both rear lines where they go into the body. gently caress you, subaru, you are a piece of poo poo. It isn't like I wanted to get this drat thing emissions checked tomorrow or anything. gently caress you subaru, this is the last time I buy one of these dumb cars. Good chance I am going to have to pull the back seat to halfass the brake lines or pull the back and front seats and the carpet to do em right. And if I want to do the brake lines at the back right, I have to drop the gas tank... and probably the rear suspension. gently caress this thing. Now I understand why no one does rear brake lines on foresters right. Because they, like toy v8 starters and bmw m42 water pumps and GM lock-in water pumps and electric fan clutches, are what I call engineering warcrimes. gently caress this. Haven't gotten to touch the carb issues on the datsun or the alternator on the tundra yet.
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Aug 21, 2014 12:48
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kastein posted:... I was going to say this can mean low brake fluid... kastein posted:Then the subaru gets back and it is pissing brake fluid from both rear lines where they go into the body. gently caress you, subaru, you are a piece of poo poo. It isn't like I wanted to get this drat thing emissions checked tomorrow or anything. gently caress you subaru, this is the last time I buy one of these dumb cars. Good chance I am going to have to pull the back seat to halfass the brake lines or pull the back and front seats and the carpet to do em right. And if I want to do the brake lines at the back right, I have to drop the gas tank... and probably the rear suspension. gently caress this thing. But then, you diagnosed it just fine yourself. Note, in rusty Alberta I've never seen brake hardlines fail like that... Does this mean the airplane project ramps up?
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Aug 21, 2014 16:30
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Well I kinda need to use the thing for at least a while because I already threw a ton of money at it and there aren't many other issues. I expected brake lines going in, but was lulled into a false sense of security by sweet lies whispered by subaru apologists I'm gonna throw like fifty bucks worth of cunifer line and fluid at it and then drink myself into oblivion. The airplane project is still a thing, but warning, it's long, long term. And yeah, with the info I had, I suspected parking brake switch. If she'd told me the pedal went from spongy to nothing as well I would have gotten this one spot on. All this tells me is we really need to bleed the brakes in her truck too because she didn't notice this. e: oh yeah, lucked the gently caress out on the Ranger. The caliper I thought was going to seize up for sure didn't, it's doing fine still after like 75 miles. So it just has the remaining misfire, and my parents are awful at cars and don't care and have been driving it like that for 6-8 months without seeing a problem with this so whatever, they can be awful to their cars, if he melts the engine or cats being stupid about it, I'll tell him to take it to the shop and pay someone to put a new one in. NOT MY PROBLEM, I've warned him like 3 times now that that's bad for the engine and cat. Guess what though? Ranger has a super crusty brake line. So we need to replace that soon... BEFORE it explodes. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Aug 21, 2014 |
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Aug 21, 2014 16:48
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 (Grabbed from the latest Cheap Truck Challenge on Dirt Every Day)
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Aug 23, 2014 20:31
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^ if you turn the J and p upside down, you can make a Jeep logo read "beer" Did a new rear passenger side brake hardline on the Forester today. M10x1.0 thread flare nuts, double flares not bubble flares (I hate bubble flares mostly because I don't have a tool for them), used cunifer line. Used my new OEM #24364 inline flaring tool, which is absolutely awesome. Even remembered to put the flare nuts on before flaring the line… Need to order two new rear rubber lines and do them plus the hardline from the rubber line to the brake cylinders. Went to do the rear driver side line as well (since it's a giant ball of rust too, nearly as bad as the passenger one) but the drat flare nut at the soft line was having none of it, nearly tore the mounting tab off the body, so I adjourned for the evening. I'll solve the problem with a pair of vise grips, my snapon 312cp wire cutters/problem solvers, and a new soft line when they arrive.
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Aug 25, 2014 03:06
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kastein posted:Used my new OEM #24364 inline flaring tool, which is absolutely awesome. That's the same one I have, and yes it is awesome. I like it enough that if I end up needing to redo the frame hard line for my rear brakes I just might do it with 3/16" instead of 1/4" just so I can use it instead of the damned bar flare tool.
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Aug 25, 2014 03:17
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Quarter-assed carb rebuild on my sister's truck: ALMOST COMPLETE Turns out the the carb is composed of 2 cast aluminum bits and 1 cast steel bit in a giant sandwich with screws and gaskets holding them together. Not much of a surprise there. The bottom layer (cast steel, has the throttle butterflies in it) has 3 bolts up into the aluminum center layer (including one with a hole drilled down the center. WTF? Fuckers are way too clever about this poo poo, I had to figure out where that one went again by reasoning my way through how it worked) and one bolt down into the steel layer. Some idiot previous owner made liberal use of JB-weld attempting to rebuild the hole in the aluminum that the bolt down into the steel layer goes through (WTF? Doesn't help anything) and one of the holes up into the aluminum through the steel is completely stripped. So I need to bring the screw and carb to work tomorrow and check the thread spec and order a helicoil set for it. Fortunately it isn't the one with the goofy assed hollow screw/vacuum reference port built in. It really wasn't THAT bad, though I didn't go completely through it, just tore everything down till I could replace the known-hosed parts and cleaned everything off with solvent. Replaced the float, an assload of gaskets, the accelerator pump, etc. The stuff I'm worried about needing to tune to make it run nicely (float valve - I adjusted it, but not sure I got it right, plus the idle/main jets) are reasonably accessible with it installed so I'll replace those if it ends up needing it. Reportedly the choke heater hasn't functioned right in EVER and there are a few other issues so I'm sure I'll be messing with this thing more, but at least it's been apart, cleaned, and reassembled with unfucked parts now. Future repairs should be easier. e: also picked up a replacement 8 ton hydraulic cable crimper (since mine went AWOL and I haven't been able to find it in 4 months) and 25 feet each of red and black #4 welding cable. Crimp lug order goes in tomorrow. Should make for some much improved battery cables for the forester and my sister's 720 because both of them have pretty haggard starter wiring. kastein fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Aug 26, 2014 |
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Aug 26, 2014 04:22
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Welp, it was my aunt's 1997 Rav4 tonight. Exhaust manifold gasket I did on it a while ago failed because one of the drat manifold studs pulled out of the cylinder head. Cheesy aluminum cylinder heads…  Fortunately it's the same M10x1.25 thread pitch as my Subaru! And I had a handful of helicoils left. So today I tore the manifold off and helicoiled the stripped out hole. This involved using vise grips on a 13/32" drill bit to bore the hole out larger because the radiator and radiator support are too much in the way to get my drill on it. So I finish that up, and put the manifold back on, and ANOTHER stud loving pulls out of the head. Manifold back off, helicoil that one too, manifold back on. This time they all held but I'm rather suspicious of the last stud at the other end… conveniently hidden under the alternator. So I've ordered a refill on the helicoil kit and a few more manifold gaskets and if it comes apart again I'm just gonna do em all. Screw it. Then we start it up to check for leaks and it's making A Funny Noise from the #1 cylinder area of the block. It's not an exhaust leak, I don't think it's the timing belt or water pump, which leaves… rod knock  She has since told me that the thing was 2 quarts low on oil a few weeks ago. I'm really hoping I am wrong here - the noise is a sort of low, rumbly thunking/knocking sound from the #1 cylinder area, it only happens when the engine is speeding up or slowing down fairly quickly, steady RPM it doesn't do it. All I can think of is rod knock though 
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Aug 29, 2014 04:20
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