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Going to be the most boring snowy driving of my entire life this winter in the forester. Same exact size/tire as I ran on the XJ last winter, also with studs, and I couldn't even get it to do donuts with 195hp/235tq out of a 4.0. Too much traction. A 2.2L low compression EJ and AWD instead of 50/50 4x4 is going to be a snoozefest. e: tirerack is running a $50/$25 off special on various tires till the end of the month and (not sure if this goes for all brands) I even got free road hazard coverage on them thrown in. I'm the last person you want to give road hazard coverage to.
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# ? Sep 23, 2014 14:54 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 07:46 |
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kastein posted:Going to be the most boring snowy driving of my entire life this winter in the forester. You have fun with the momentum you got. 60mph sideways at a whim lol forever. Also you need to do the vermont winter challenge with us.
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# ? Sep 23, 2014 15:00 |
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I can't risk tickets. No VMC for me. Stupid loving subaru threw a P0420 catalyst efficiency code on the way home from work tonight. Fortunately this was the last year it was subject to emissions in this state, so next year I can go through inspection and no one gives a gently caress if my CEL is on. This gives me a lot more leeway on deciding when and what to fix, so I'm still on my original plan of slowly collecting all the parts to completely derust the rear suspension and fuel/evap system as I find them for good prices at local junkyards. Except now I'll just add "buy a 50 dollar weld-on cat and maybe think about changing it" to the list. Shrug. Probably junkyarding Saturday and maybe Sunday/Monday this weekend but not sure, I may be busy Sunday/Monday. Likely also junkyarding next weakend, and hopefully finding some replacement doors and a hood with better paint for this chunk of poo poo. Or maybe heading up to SiF's maine banjo subaru/jeep/ford compound to wire a jeep and harass his cat, depending on when he finishes refitting and installing the engine. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Oct 7, 2014 |
# ? Oct 7, 2014 04:06 |
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Began tearing my dad's Ranger apart, since we discovered some serious ant issues that are going to require more material and forethought before continuing to repair their house. Grille, AC condenser, radiator, most of the other bullshit and wiring all disconnected from the front radiator support. Needs the radiator support replaced (severely rusted, a common issue on these vehicles in this climate) as well as the front right brake piping on the frame, transmission cooler lines, and a few other odds and ends while it's apart. Going to the yard in the morning for an assortment of stupid bolts and poo poo that I broke, then back at it later. Going to get to exercise my newly purchased Eastwood spot weld cutting tool.
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# ? Oct 18, 2014 02:38 |
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Got a bunch of car poo poo done this weekend. Yesterday: scouted the junkyard, harassed SiF via cellphone for subaru info, chose a donor for new rear suspension bits for my 2000 forester. (98 legacy outback w/ 5MT and limited trim, disc brakes, maybe LSD!) Entirely accidentally found a prepulled engine for Motronic's S10 on the way out of the yard, which they quoted me 125 bucks for, complete. They threw it in the back lot with some poly wrap on it for him today. Then spent the second half of the day at my buddy Anthony's place helping him finish up the wiring on his 97 engine/5MT/ECU swap into his 2001 XJ. Got real close to done on that, discovered a few missing parts, etc. Also picked up a set of thick cut (fits 4.10 and down deck height diff carrier) high pinion dana 60 5.13 gears from him, so I guess I've chosen 5.13 as my diff ratio for the next offroad MJ build. Today: hit the stafford swapmeet, bought a ton of random tools I had forgotten I needed. Also got a set of 16.5" hummer beadlock wheels (two 24 bolt, two 12 bolt, who cares) for A HUNDRED BUCKS. That's like, less than half online price before shipping. so now wheels for the offroad MJ are chosen too. Then hit the yard with elektrotechnik and pulled the new rear suspension for my forester. Took about two hours, finished just in time, dragged it to the register with a seatbelt and paid. Time for everyone to invest in rustoleum corp, because I am going to cause a spike in sales when I start derusting this piece of poo poo. E: holy poo poo, the vendor I was gonna use for wheels would have charged me 360 plus s/h for those. Better deal than I thought. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Oct 20, 2014 |
# ? Oct 20, 2014 04:24 |
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kastein posted:They threw it in the back lot with some poly wrap on it for him today. Thanks again. I'm leaving in a few minutes to pick it up. Hopefully I can miss NYC traffic in both directions.
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 13:58 |
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If you want to go even further out of your way, drop by Woburn for lunch and I'll give you a tour of the shop (I do not seriously recommend this)
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 15:48 |
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If your ebola condition gets any better and you aren't particularly busy, would you be up for maybe taking a look at my wiring explosion MJ this coming weekend? I should have the electrical troubleshooting manual by then too.
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 16:59 |
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Maybe, but I am incredibly short on time right now. Gotta finish up fixing the parents foundation, then fix mine before winter, etc. In between that I need to build a plow truck and somehow recover two of my jeeps from upstate NY.
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 17:46 |
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I obviously just paid the Kastein price for this thing because the guy checking me out didn't believe it and had to call Joe over to do a bunch of price overrides and removing core charges. It came with every accessory including the drat AC compressor and ECM. Thanks again! Time to drive another 4.5 hours. Totally worth it, even with the price of diesel.
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 19:53 |
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No problem dude! I still can't believe that kind of freak luck, it was just sitting there. I initially only looked at it to sharpen up my motor identification game and then went "wait a minute, who the hell was looking for one of these?". I'm honestly not sure if that AC compressor went with that engine package but it was on the same cart, so I stuck it in the pile where it appeared to belong and hoped they didn't notice that it was unbolted, just in case it was from the same donor and you needed it. Apparently it worked My traps and arms are loving WRECKED from removing and dragging that Subaru rear suspension. Guess I need more exercise. Go figure, I go to a swapmeet with like 3000 cars in the lot and the first empty spot I see is next to an even more beat up red Forester. (Not the owners) Can't wait to slap some 37s on these and drive over poo poo with my dumb truck gently caress you Subaru for hiding (badly) spot welded weldnuts inside a frame rail under a floorpan. I made you some access holes. I hope these don't pop loose on mine because that will be a bad day. I came, I saw, I conquered.
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 22:23 |
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How goes it on the 5 Ton?
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 22:37 |
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I haven't touched that piece of poo poo in like three months now. More important poo poo to do, unfortunately.
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 23:10 |
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kastein posted:No problem dude! I still can't believe that kind of freak luck, it was just sitting there. I initially only looked at it to sharpen up my motor identification game and then went "wait a minute, who the hell was looking for one of these?". Hell yeah it worked. I just dropped it in the garage. Coil packs, the entire fuse box.......holy crap there's a lot of stuff on here.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 00:55 |
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So I while ago I was posted about shifting issues on my 87 4Runner (for those of you who don't know the AW4 in Jeeps are similar to the A340 series in Toyotas). I have FINALLY gotten somewhere after several attempts at diagnosing in between life and working too much. I was digging around the dash and noticed that the OD indicator, which would flash trouble codes for the transmission, was burnt out so after replacing it (and finding the connector that needs to be shorted to ground), I got codes 63, 64, 65 which are all pointing towards solenoids and/or the wiring. At least now I can nail do more testing to chase it down to the harness or the solenoids themselves. I am hoping that it doesn't turn out to be in the main harness... Testing the connection for the solenoids at the computer gives ~50-60 ohms, whereas it should be 11-15. I also get a short (no continuity) for the lock up solenoid. If I get the same value at the connector from the solenoid I would imagine it is pointing to the solenoids themselves?
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# ? Oct 22, 2014 04:23 |
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Wait, no continuity or no reading? Continuity: zero, or near zero ohms. A short circuit, if you're measuring things that shouldn't be zero ohms. No continuity: infinite, or very high resistance. An open circuit. You should be seeing around 11 to 15 ohms to ground on those, which will usually read as continuity. This is why I like using an ohm meter set to ohms not continuity, it is less confusing if you aren't dealing solely with wires and switches. Also, I ordered a buttload of brand new bolts, nuts, studs, and brake piping for the subaru, so those should all be in around 2-3 days from now. Preparing for the rear suspension rebuild. Stuff left to order: whiteline diff cradle bushings, poly trailing arm bushings off summit racing, maybe window weld or some urethane stock to make my own T-bar bushings since I am not happy with the available choices/prices. Brake consumables (since the new rear has discs!), maybe unit bearings. Oh, I should figure out what I need from the fuel and evap system too. And what taps to clean up the weldnuts, and replacement weldnuts for when the fuckers fall off the body. Anyone know if a 98 legacy outback limited w/ winter package would have the same fuel tank as a 2000 forester L? I left the tank in the donor, but it is now super easy to access... since I took everything under it.
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# ? Oct 22, 2014 05:06 |
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Yes I said short, meant open. I have it on ohms and get no reading on any setting.
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# ? Oct 22, 2014 05:13 |
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Something's fucky for sure then. That would definitely explain the solenoids not working - unless it's just a measurement issue. What are you using as a ground? Are you sure it's actually grounded? Like you said, I would try measuring at the connector closest to the transmission and work my way back outward toward the ECU till I found the first spot it measures infinite resistance on. Then you know the failure is between the last spot you got a good reading from and the first one you got a bad reading from. In other news: Slow is Fast dropped by my work yesterday at lunch with a pile of electrical poo poo. Big box-o-XJ-harness for me to strip down for the XJ 4.0 into the CJ swap project plus one of these: My plan is to strip the harness down to just wiring (all loom and tape off) and remove all unnecessary wiring from it tonight/tomorrow, as well as labeling all important wire ends so that the custom harness for the CJ will be as simple as showing up with a crimper, heatgun, knife, wire cutters, giant sack of zipties, and a few rolls of dry vinyl tape and good electrical tape plus a sack of new loom tubing, then splicing it in, instead of having to do the harness strip-down the same weekend and hope I can pull it off in time. The Forester gauge pack is getting some fun stuff done to it and then it's going in my Subaru. I'm really tired of not having an oil pressure gauge or voltage gauge, it makes me nervous. The plan is to make a new screen setup for it that will have a couple different menus. One with oil pressure, battery voltage, and a compass. Another with a compass, outside temp, alt/lat/lon and oil pressure (basically the stock display data plus oil pressure and GPS data.) And maybe other modes if I can come up with something else useful to display. It'll probably never get finished like most of my projects, but it should be fine to tinker with in the meantime
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# ? Oct 24, 2014 18:34 |
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This guy probably spent too much money doing it, but man I really like putting a tiny OLED with an OBD2-reading microcontroller into a digital clock: http://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-OBD-II-Gauge-in-With-OEM-Look/?ALLSTEPS
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# ? Oct 24, 2014 19:35 |
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Assuming it'll fit (I need to dissect the stock unit and measure its LCD module tonight) this is what I was thinking of using. Pricey, but worth it. 256x64 pixel, 146x65mm overall module size.
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# ? Oct 24, 2014 19:45 |
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Timmy Cruise posted:Yes I said short, meant open. I have it on ohms and get no reading on any setting. I get continuity in the wiring all the way into the trans. With that I don't see what else it could be other than the solenoid(s?) or the wiring in the tranny. Going to throw a solenoid kit in and see.
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# ? Oct 24, 2014 20:03 |
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Yep, sure sounds like it. One last question before I agree. Are you sure you're measuring to a solid ground? Try measuring direct from the transmission housing casting (the solenoids usually ground to it if that's also the same as a jeep AW4) to the pins for the solenoids. If you get an open circuit measuring there, the solenoids are junk.
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# ? Oct 24, 2014 20:08 |
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Today I dissected the Subaru compass/altimeter/barometer pack Slow is Fast dropped off with me. It's actually quite nicely engineered, for once. Whole unit. Harness connector. What kind of angelic engineer labels the loving pins on the PCB for me? Cable to the onboard magnetic compass unit. (I mean, seriously? This is just too easy. X and Y are going to be voltage signals that are the sine and cosine of the angle relative to the earth's magnetic field, GND and VCC are reference voltage supply out to it. Done and done.) The aforementioned compass unit. It's a very similar design to the one in 80s/90s Chrysler products, such as the Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and minivans. Here's a patent that describes the functionality of the compass magnetic sensing unit, which is a ferrite toroid with 3 specially aligned windings on it. http://www.google.com/patents/US4546551 The connector for the right hand control buttons on the front panel. Left hand control buttons. Seriously, whoever designed this board labeled EVERYTHING and I love them for it. The stock LCD in the unit is a specially built one made just for Subaru (well, actually, for Japan Electric Clock Co, Ltd, AKA JECO) which has segments shaped exactly how they wanted, so it will never display anything other than what it was manufactured to display. However I've found a number of displays that will fit into the same space and am in the planning stages (i.e. as far as this project will ever go, like most of mine, sorry to disappoint ) of designing a replacement that will display whatever the hell I want it to.
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# ? Oct 29, 2014 00:03 |
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Too bad I gave away my gauge setup with my rolled OBS, I bought a Forester 10 months later and need a place to mount my ScanGauge II.
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# ? Oct 29, 2014 00:22 |
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JECO made a lot of the clocks for old Datsuns/Nissans so I'm not too surprised the relationship continued to 90s Subaru. That thing is awesome inside, I love how the pins are even silkscreen-labelled in Japanese. I got into the TinyScreen Kickstarter and I wonder what the 25.8mm x 25.0mm colour OLED can replace in my dash. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Oct 29, 2014 |
# ? Oct 29, 2014 00:55 |
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kastein posted:Yep, sure sounds like it. Did that and still open circuit. Just waiting on parts now. Thanks for the help!
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# ? Oct 29, 2014 14:59 |
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There's a right-hand drive XJ that I see on my daily commute, I'll get a picture of it one day.
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# ? Oct 29, 2014 16:02 |
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PhotoKirk posted:There's a right-hand drive XJ that I see on my daily commute, I'll get a picture of it one day. Fun fact, most of these are JDM imports that rural post offices bought for mail delivery. http://www.rightdrivejeeps4postal.com/
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# ? Oct 29, 2014 19:39 |
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I manage newspaper delivery contractors, and when one of my current carriers mentioned they had a mail delivery jeep I was all "Oh hey, cool." I didn't realize the fuckers were actually right-hand drive. I had to rewrite the whole goddamn route because I like to keep most deliveries on the left
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# ? Oct 29, 2014 19:44 |
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Subaru just ate another $200 on rockauto. Plus the $170 I paid for the new rear suspension, and the 150-250 on poo poo I need to pick up at the dealer soon (unsure what the total will be until it comes in.) Oh well, it's costing me several hundred a month less to get to work in this thing, and eventually (theoretically) this thing will be mostly new parts and will stop bleeding money. Here's hoping it isn't like my last red vehicle, anyways.
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# ? Oct 31, 2014 00:17 |
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kastein posted:eventually (theoretically) this thing will be mostly new parts and will stop bleeding money. sure it will
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# ? Oct 31, 2014 14:26 |
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As long as it bleeds money slower than the XJ did (not difficult) and uses less gas (guaranteed) I don't give a gently caress That's all new wheel bearings (and all TEN seals to do them - big gently caress-you to the subaru engineering team) plus new rear discs and pads for the disc brake swap I have planned. The front wheel bearings are definitely on the way out, the rears I have no idea, so I'm getting them now. If they are bad, I'll do em, else the parts go on the shelf until they are needed. ninja edit: advanced-stage rustectomy on the Ranger happened last night, pictures shortly. e: I got cockblocked By that bolt and this bolt ... which decided that having hex heads was lame and "potato-head" was the superior fastener type. So I abused them with an angle grinder until they were gone. Now we are getting somewhere. Spotwelds all cut/ground out, remnants of old radiator support removed. That little chunk at the bottom of the inner fender with like 6 spotwelds through it is the only thing I have left. It was midnight and I didn't want to piss the neighbors off more with the angle grinder. New radiator support put in place just to see how it will look. Have to take it back out and grind the remaining bit of old support off before welding the new one in. All in all, not that hard, just annoying. The eastwood spotweld cutter is awesome, except that it's carbide and therefore brittle, so since I had no idea what I was doing I was out of teeth on both ends of the bit by the time I was halfway through cutting spotwelds. Need to be more careful with the next one. In the meantime, I finished the job with a 3/8" drill bit, since I don't give a gently caress about the part that was going to be preserved by the spotweld cutter anyways. kastein fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Oct 31, 2014 |
# ? Oct 31, 2014 14:36 |
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Got a good start on Slow Is Fast's CJ7 XJ 4.0L swap custom wiring harness. Before being stripped down: (phone died halfway through, will probably get pictures of its present ratsnest condition tomorrow) Here is what the bottom half of a Ranger cab mount and its through bolt look like after 14 years of salt. Good thing the bracket on the cab side rotted off the cab because this would have broken with any real load on it. New radiator support prepped for welding, put in place, aligned, and clamped. Plug welded in place and all welds covered front, back, and inside of seam (between layers) soaked with Eastwood Internal Frame Coat. New AC condenser "customized" by either fedex or UPS. Not pictured: swabbed everything with Hammerite until it was leaking out of the seams (just in case the internal frame coat missed a spot...), ran a new passenger front brake line, new front cab mounts installed, all fender mounting weldnuts and front fender weldnuts chased with a tap (it's M6x1, BTW, in case someone needs that info) so the bolts wouldn't strip or break off going back in. New transmission cooler lines put in place and loosely screwed into transmission. Tranny aux cooler repaired (the upper bracket broke off because some idiot at Ford thought pop-riveting a steel bracket to an aluminum core was a great idea - ever hear of the galvanic series? I thought not) by jb-welding the bracket back on, then reinstalled. Then we discovered that two of the radiator support cushions had parted ways with the vehicle some years ago due to the lower half of the radiator support rotting off, and therefore the radiator would just be hanging from two bolts. Not ideal. Also determined the new AC condenser was ruined by some hamfisted moron at fedex/UPS and that it wasn't going to fit. Fortunately RockAuto is awesome and is sending a new one, so I hacked the fittings off the original punctured condenser and crimped the tubing to act as blockoff plates so the system doesn't get packed with moisture and bullshit. That brings us to Wednesday night. Last night was crunch time as he needed to drive it to Vermont today, so as soon as I got out of work it was time to dive in headfirst. Bullshit done: air filter housing and intake tract put back in place cooling system reassembled trans cooler lines attached properly and tightened cooling system filled and burped the worlds most ghetto brake bleed on the front right line, since the caliper bleed screw was rusted solid (a new caliper is on order) fenders reinstalled and adjusted for proper panel gap, unlike whoever did the off-the-books collision repair I discovered on it while doing all this! inner fenders reinstalled all wiring reinstalled front grille, nosepiece, lighting reinstalled One mudflap isn't installed because we ran out of new screws of the right size, but it'll make the trip. poo poo left to do: power steering aux cooler lines - severely rusted, need to be replaced ASAP but I didn't want to gently caress with it with zero buffer time remaining if a flare nut rounded off or something. damned mudflap still has a cyl #1 misfire. I fear the worst, but a new engine at the junkyard will be like 300-400 even if it comes to that. AC condenser. New one's on the way from RockAuto and it shouldn't be too hard to sneak it in between the radiator and the rad support. Then I get to play junior Motronic with all my new fancy AC recharge tools that goddamned caliper and hell, think I'll toss a new hydraulic hose on it at the same time, the frame end crimp on it was pretty rusty. Driveable again! Mom is about to get swatted by an unwilling captive cat.
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# ? Nov 7, 2014 23:18 |
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When I win the lottery I am putting a 100 thousand dollar bounty on any subaru engineer's head, and buying back and crushing every subaru in massachusetts. gently caress this thing. It is literally less serviceable, more obtusely designed, and worse in every way than a 1.8t B5 chassis audi. I know, because I have worked on one of those extensively. I don't think I have ever been more angry at a loving car in my life. These wheel bearings and lower balljoints can suck every dick on the planet, and any others that may or may not exist in this universe. I have no words.
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 04:50 |
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kastein posted:Subaru just ate another $200 on rockauto. Plus the $170 I paid for the new rear suspension, and the 150-250 on poo poo I need to pick up at the dealer soon (unsure what the total will be until it comes in.) Oh well, it's costing me several hundred a month less to get to work in this thing, and eventually (theoretically) this thing will be mostly new parts and will stop bleeding money. Here's hoping it isn't like my last red vehicle, anyways. kastein posted:As long as it bleeds money slower than the XJ did (not difficult) and uses less gas (guaranteed) I don't give a gently caress kastein posted:When I win the lottery I am putting a 100 thousand dollar bounty on any subaru engineer's head, and buying back and crushing every subaru in massachusetts. gently caress Subaru, I especially hate when their owners get all faggy over the superiority of all wheel drive.
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 05:08 |
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Reminder, you can get AWD audis too. They are easier to work on. I have decided that subaru engineers are the ones who got rejection letters from BMW, porsche, and VAG. Seriously, I would swap a biturbo drivetrain into a fiero before I would ever buy another of these after seeing how they are put together.
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 05:18 |
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kastein posted:Seriously, I would swap a biturbo drivetrain into a fiero before I would ever buy another of these after seeing how they are put together.
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 05:24 |
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All I have to do to survive that is never buy another subaru, which is guaranteed. Also, I win, motherfuckers. Do not gently caress with me, subaru, because I will get medieval on your rear end and you will not like it. DO NOT gently caress WITH ME, GOD drat IT. I can honestly say that was the first time I have ever taken a balljoint out of its socket with an angle grinder.
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 06:29 |
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Sorry to hear you're having problems with the Forester, and sorry if I'm being dense, but what is wrong? It seemed like the thread went from "I bought some new parts" to Ranger chat to you cursing Subaru. I think your rage should serve as a reminder that no car maker is perfect. They've all done some great things and they've all done some horrible, horrible things. Crotch Fruit posted:faggy
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 06:45 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 07:46 |
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The ranger is my dad's and is making a guest appearance, it fell apart and as the car person in the family, it became my task to fix it. The subaru I got to save money on gas going to work and promptly got whacked in the face with a 50lb sack of deferred maintenance. I need to do wheel bearings and the bearings and balljoints are known to be a bastard on rusty ones, so I got spare knuckles today to prep before I start the project to avoid this ending with me having to walk to work or something when I blow up some important part. As for the "I bought new parts" and cursing subaru - those are connected, I am putting all the new parts into the knuckles I just finished cursing at tomorrow morning. Getting the old balljoints out was a stone bitch until I realized I could just butcher them through the slot for the pinch bolt, then drive the chunks out one at a time with a chisel. It was rather satisfying, too, since those damned balljoints had me stymied for several hours...
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 06:56 |