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Theres a few in Norcal too. I have no issue going to pick one up and shipping it to you
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Jul 18, 2015 15:32
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 18:13 |
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Ken, I know the last thing you need is more vehicles but this is for sale about a mile from me, and I think I'm only about 30-ish miles from you. It's been there for well over a year. I can send more pics and get a phone number if you want.
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Jul 18, 2015 17:46
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more vehicles would be fine with me, but less money is not, sadly. so unless that thing is so cheap I can part it out for more than I paid, not really worth it. However, work on convincing Adiabatic because he has been looking at some trucks, I have convinced him to buy like 3 times only to have it sell before he got there. and he is driving through half of Massachusetts tomorrow. Any idea what they are asking?
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Jul 18, 2015 17:51
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Nope, there's no price. Just a phone number on the sign and nobody came out to talk to me while I was looking at it. I've tried to stalk it on Craigslist too, but while searching for "military" in the cars and trucks sections brings up a number of bad ideas I can't find that one. If you or Adiabatic want to call I can PM you the number. I feel weird about just posting some guy's phone number.
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Jul 18, 2015 17:59
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How much of the nose does the engine fill in those?
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Jul 18, 2015 18:36
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Sure, pm me the number and I'll get it to him next time he is online, he is repairing rally cars right now I think. Also, I got my manifold... 65 bucks but it has great o2 sensor threads and no heatshield bolts broken off in it. Chasing all the threads with a tap right now. One of the JY employees told me they had another Justy, he jammed it in the woods when the boss told him to crush it like a year ago since it was rare, it has been here 4+ years. I said to jam it further into the woods and I would be back for at least a handful of parts off it, it is a firstgen but has AC and I am pretty sure I can at least transplant the compressor, belt drive, hoses, and evap, then figure the rest out myself.
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Jul 18, 2015 19:03
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mungtor posted:I've tried to stalk it on Craigslist too, but while searching for "military" in the cars and trucks sections This is actually one of the things I do to kill time at work. Cakefool posted:How much of the nose does the engine fill in those?  they don't make em big for NO reason. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jul 18, 2015 |
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Jul 18, 2015 22:30
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Sandbagger SA posted:This is actually one of the things I do to kill time at work. Ah, so that's where you learned your painting techniques!
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Jul 18, 2015 23:06
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Don't buy TOO many Justys. They're small, but they add up!
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Jul 19, 2015 09:06
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But what if I only buy fractional justys?  I will let the pictures tell the tale, and type the whole  version up tomorrow when I am at a real computer.Previous owner on left, iForge on right. This photograph only marred by the sad fact that no one is hoisting an adult soda.   :fiddle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWRZX-u0_VA E: fixed the video link. Yes, that song came on when I started the car, not sure why because that station wasn't playing that before... Made it home, unloaded all Justy parts. Filled both MJs with whatever XJ/MJ parts they said yes to upon offering them: yard somewhat cleared.  It was far too hot to be handloading a Justy frontcut into an MJ in the sun and I can't thank them enough for hauling this stuff down, I would not have been able to get it without their help. I now have a complete spare drivetrain, minus rear suspension and drive and the back half of the driveshaft, which the seller wanted. More on that later. kastein fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Jul 20, 2015 |
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Jul 19, 2015 23:30
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If you start with a whole Justy, buy half of one, then buy half of the remaining part, etc, will you ever reach two complete running Justy?
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Jul 20, 2015 03:50
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Enourmo posted:If you start with a whole Justy, buy half of one, then buy half of the remaining part, etc, will you ever reach two complete running Justy? Kastein, half-Justy warboy.
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Jul 20, 2015 03:53
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Enourmo posted:If you start with a whole Justy, buy half of one, then buy half of the remaining part, etc, will you ever reach two complete running Justy? I have learned that no, this doesn't work this way. Which is why I have to say I have three and two halves MJs instead of just saying four. Again, thanks a ton to Adiabatic and iForge, I wouldn't have this pile of great condition spare parts if it weren't for their help.  So this is where it gets funny. This is the third time I have tried to buy this exact same car. Here's the first time I saw it: http://copart.com/us/Lot/18757705 That time, I was stymied by not having a dealer license, and not having enough advance notice to find anyone I knew who had one and was free on a Tuesday to go bid on a Justy that a moose took a nap on. It sold for $250. Second time, chrisgt found it and sent me a CL link the Saturday after the auction. We knew immediately it was the same car since it was a 1990 silver 2 door 4wd 5 speed Justy with 3k miles on it, a 20 minute drive from the auction house, the roof cut off (allegedly due to a moose accident), some song and dance about how it was towed behind an RV to explain the low mileage* and a price tag of $750, justified by the claim that it's cheaper than an ATV and fits on the same trails. The VIN was listed in the posting and it matched the one I found on another auction site that scrapes copart's backend data somehow. I missed seeing it by mere hours, as it turns out, I was going to see it Monday night (6 days after it was auctioned for $250) and the guy I just bought it from bought it at lunch that day. * 5 digit odometer and a cable driven odo/speedo. With the rust this thing had (not bad for new england, but also definitely not 3000 miles clean) there is no way it had 3k, but I wouldn't be surprised by 103k. Third time was the link Black88GTA posted in this very thread. I never thought I'd see it again, but it matched the VIN on the previous two listings. I told the guy selling it and he thought it was pretty funny and apologized for snaking me on the previous CL sale. Apparently he paid the guy $700 for it. He wanted it to use the rear suspension and drive to build a custom trike out of, which sure looks to be an interesting project. After some horse trading we settled on a deal, I gave him $450 for everything from the dash forward (minus the radio, radiator, battery, and alternator), the back and front seats, the fuel tank and pump, and half of the driveshaft. So he ended up with his rear suspension, the half driveshaft he needs to have a custom one made to mate to the shaft-drive motorcycle he's grafting onto it, tail lights, chassis cut, radiator, alternator, battery, and a decent radio (even more amazingly, I'm pretty certain it's exactly the same model of aftermarket radio mine came with!) for $250. Everyone ended up getting a pretty good deal on this, really. I told him if he ever needs any other spare parts off it, they're for sale for a very reasonable price since I probably left with $1500 in parts had I bought them at list price at a junkyard. The collection: - complete dressed longblock, less alternator (I already have a spare) - complete spare 4wd manual transmission - front CV shafts, control arms, struts, wheels, tires, brakes, complete steering rack and linkages + steering column - fenders that are probably salvageable, or at least usable as patch panels for mine - complete dash - decent-ish carpet that might be better than mine - seats that are most definitely better than mine and might fit - spare shifter boot, lever, and linkages - almost-complete wiring harness (we did cut it about equal with the B pillars.) - complete brake and clutch setup - front bumper in decent shape, plus grille, headlights, markers, etc - complete fuel tank assembly (hopefully the same as 4 door) - half driveshaft - halves of doors (2 door, so I can't use them, but I can part them out and trade parts from them for 4 door stuff on justy forums) - complete brand new exhaust (it's probably not long enough for a 4 door, but I can extend it no problem) - ECU - hood in great condition - wiper linkages and motor (my linkages seem pretty shagged out) The seats strapped into the back of iForge's MJ for the drive down kept him from doing much over 60 on hills due to wind. Apparently they work almost as well as an F15 air brake 
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Jul 20, 2015 15:18
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Holy poo poo, score. I didnt realize how many parts you got.
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Jul 20, 2015 16:18
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RIP moose justy, you're parts in heaven now.
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Jul 20, 2015 16:51
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That moose Justy is going to be putting rubber to the road as the rear end of a bad-rear end hillbilly tricycle, it's life has just begun!
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Jul 20, 2015 17:12
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Fart Pipe posted:Holy poo poo, score. I didnt realize how many parts you got. yeah and that's just what I remember. I'm sure there is other stuff I completely forgot. Like all the motor mounts and brackets, subframe, cooling hoses, entire vacuum system, and a spare catalytic converter. As for the other half of the donor, yeah, his project should be interesting. I don't really like trikes but I love building poo poo and he definitely has some solid ideas on how he's going to put it together.
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Jul 20, 2015 18:11
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That was a stupid amount of fun.
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Jul 20, 2015 18:44
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Close the internet, you fuckers win. That is likely the best thing I have ever, ever seen. Ahahahaha.
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Jul 20, 2015 20:07
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I don't know if we've reached Peak Ken Thread yet. I feel like this is like that part of the animatronic-dinosaur rollercoaster where they give you a fake drop just before the big climb.
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Jul 20, 2015 20:46
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Adiabatic posted:That was a stupid amount of fun. Hahaha, holy poo poo. This could only have been better if you had strapped a pair of blow-up dolls or something equally goony into those seats for the drive up. Nice score, that's a ton of poo poo for $450
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Jul 20, 2015 23:53
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The funniest part is that was the third time I had tried to buy that exact same parts car and I wouldn't have seen it on CL again if you hadn't linked it here. Thanks dude. ... and you wouldn't have linked it if I hadn't been bitching up a storm about my exhaust manifold getting stripped. I guess it's a good thing I stripped that O2 bung after all 
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Jul 21, 2015 01:01
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kastein posted:The funniest part is that was the third time I had tried to buy that exact same parts car and I wouldn't have seen it on CL again if you hadn't linked it here. Thanks dude. I have already filled my driveway with derelict piles of poo poo and have no space for more, yet still often troll CL for junk that I find interesting for whatever reason. The only difference between this and all of the other times I do it is that this time some actual good came out of it, instead of my inner retard going "why have you not bought that $600 W124 yet, what's wrong with you".  Also I am an enabler. And SearchTempest owns.
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Jul 21, 2015 03:09
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I was gonna go to the junkyard this morning but felt like working on the Justy when I walked outside. So I did, and it runs again  First order of business was to drop the cat and downpipe out so I could work on the cat flange, as it had two bolts snapped off in it. One spun out through the back since it made a few turns before snapping off, but the other didn't so I got out my air drill (air drills are awesome) and drilled it out. Then through drilled both to 5/16 because tapped holes and welded studs fastened to exhaust components are evil poo poo anyways. Gutted the first slab of cat honeycomb since it was half plugged solid with ash, left the other slab in place. Got it all back together with some muffler butter on the old cat flange gasket (which is unobtainium and $22 at the dealer) and test drove it. Holy poo poo what a difference! With the new O2 sensor and rear struts it is far more comfortable to drive and handles worlds better. What the hell is this white poo poo:  RIP threads in old manifold:  So much bullshit over one stupid 1 wire O2 sensor:  Also found out my parts car front cut has a front swaybar (my car doesn't) so once I fix the rear swaybar link anchor on the control arm, I can put both sways on and really have a racecar
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Jul 25, 2015 17:59
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I've answered my own question through the power of the internet. YAY. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jul 26, 2015 |
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Jul 26, 2015 17:07
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kastein posted:
But what about all your flex?!
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Jul 26, 2015 23:47
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JKS doesn't make swaybar quick disconnects for it  It is really hard to kick up enough to get it properly muddy without beating on the drivetrain more than I want to, but my testing run after the repairs yesterday was successful. Made it through breakneck, even the big root filled mudhole at the end, in FWD.  It needs more aggressive tires. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jul 27, 2015 |
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Jul 27, 2015 04:53
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The first course for any 4x4 trail in your area will always be your driveway  "iForge, you won't make it backing the truck up the hill. Trust me."
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Jul 27, 2015 13:10
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I tore the header panel off the toilet jeep and caved a fender in the first time I tried to back up that hill. AWD might make it, 4WD would with good tires and the driver knowing exactly what to do at each point, but unless you know where all the obstacles (chainlink fence, tree stump, subaru wheels, wheelbarrow, wheel chock stone, tractor, TREES, subaru rear suspension crossmember...) are, you're playing with fire. Meanwhile it is cake in 2WD going forward as long as it's not snowy or muddy. It becomes a throttlefest if either of those is true. I took the Justy to work today, it did well except the CEL came back on the instant I hit a pothole. I think now that the O2 sensor is fixed and it's not on solid, I'm fighting an intermittent wire to a sensor somewhere. It went on and off 3 or 4 times Saturday on my test drive and I thought I got it to finally stay off, which turned out to be wrong.
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Jul 27, 2015 15:10
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My Comanche's overheating has jumped ship to your Justy's wiring
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Jul 27, 2015 15:28
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If it hasn't yet, it is probably going to soon Why? Remember how I was debating an XJ alternator swap? 90 or 117 amps from a stock XJ alt, 55 or so from a stock Justy alt. Justy alternators are never in the parts store either. I was bored tonight so I decided to muck with the alt and try it on my spare drivetrain... First, does an IN221SE single wire conversion regulator fit an XJ alt? The answer is sorta. It needs a new back dustcover (expected) and a different style brush holder (not exactly unexpected.) Gonna order them tomorrow at lunch. Work in progress with a gross old spare alt I had laying around:  It fit in the lower alt bracket like it was meant to. I do need to make a custom tensioner bracket, since this one has a different housing size. Belt path appears to line up but I need to testfit more carefully. The stock belt fit, barely. Even better, a 150-160 amp 5.9 ZJ alternator I got years ago:  Does not appear to line up with the belt path as well (again, need to check more carefully) and definitely needs a longer belt and new tensioner bracket. I think when I get back from CA I will make a bracket, buy a longer belt, and see if my best guess at the brush pack and back cover I need will fit the XJ alt to the thing. Hopefully can find a drop-in ND 63.5mm regulator with the right plug to go right to the factory harness (and LRC, because a 1.2L 3cyl will need it) then I can just upgrade the B+ feed and fuse link to the battery and it will otherwise be plug and play.
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Jul 28, 2015 04:58
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Forester is a rotten piece of garbage with a rusted out evap system (wtf subaru), news at 11 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X03iQKd1cAI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp6GPgiihWg Really hoping some texting idiot rearends me in a few months when the justy will be rebuilt enough to trust as a primary DD and the blue MJ will be solid enough to be backup DD. gently caress this boring shame-wagon.
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Aug 16, 2015 22:57
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 Holy poo poo I don't blame you, I wouldn't even want to waste any more time or money on it. That's gotta be a constant battle with cars up north, determining at what point the rust factor overrides any money spent on repairs.
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Aug 16, 2015 23:40
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Ken is the guy we get our tetanus antibodies from for booster shots.
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Aug 16, 2015 23:43
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hahahaha gently caress New England
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Aug 17, 2015 00:06
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leica posted:
Once they hit 12 years, you are just buying time with Rust repair. If you are stubborn you can get a few more out of them.
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Aug 17, 2015 00:29
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I mean any repairs in general, like what's the point of replacing all the shocks if the mounts are disintegrating? Or doing a timing belt job if the frame is going to rot in half before the timing belt breaks? I can see why people just run poo poo into the ground up there.
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Aug 17, 2015 00:34
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This is why I named this thread the way I did If you don't stay on top of rust prevention up here your poo poo will be gone inside of 15 years, 20 tops. This car is 15 years and 235k miles old and will be lucky to see 16 and 250k. It has been in 3 accidents (prior to my ownership) that caused breaches in the paint and corrosion coating, which certainly didn't help.
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Aug 17, 2015 03:10
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I've had my wagon for what, two years, and when I got it, it was crusty. Now it is reaching "oh poo poo this shell is really problematic and needs to go away sooner than later" territory. My legacy and my RS have been patched and cleaned and are fine when you maintain them, but living near the ocean AND doing salty highway driving spells doom for anything. You can prep a shell to live longer by filling every orifice with cavity wax and or internal frame coating along with chassis savering anything you can get a brush near. The chassis saver on all my cars has never been an issue. But at some point unless you encapsulate the shell with ridiculous chemicals, it is only going to last a few years. The evap and bumper beam suck, but those are bolt on parts which if you are a cheapass you can junkyard and replace. Strut towers or chassis rails... not so much. The biggest thing is keeping a shell clean and anything hosed bolt on bolt off replace with a nice example. The analogy of cancer is really quite on point.
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Aug 17, 2015 03:27
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 18:13 |
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Yeah at this point the rust has become problematic in the corners of the front lower rad support, the rear right chassis rail, bumper beam, entire evap system, both rear quarters and wheel arches, the rear strut towers, inner rear wheel wells, rockers, rear subframe, and a few other spots. And by problematic I mean those are the places it has actually reached the "I can see inside/through my car" level. This chassis is doomed. I will put no further work into it except that necessary to make it pass inspection and continue rolling.
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Aug 17, 2015 03:52
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