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Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

kastein posted:

First half of the day I'm probably busy taking my LTC/FID safety class (not sure the registration went through) and second half I'll probably be going insane working on the house and Roadmaster, but come on by and grab your generator while you're down here! I feel bad that it's been here so long now.

Disregard. I got the day wrong. It's going to be NEXT Saturday (the 26th).

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Amusingly, I will be in Maine that day. It's opposites day I guess.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Mostly copy/pasted from way earlier in the thread. I need to get my rear end in gear on the blue MJ this week/weekend because the time approaches when I will probably need to use it.

Justy stuff left to do:
Pick up parts order at the dealer (!!!)
Order remainder of engine build parts on rockauto

Build and install engine
Drain trans fluid to appropriate level, I overfilled it
Fix swaybar tab and reinstall rear swaybar
Ungunk drivers door lock AND HATCH LOCK
Fix dents in bodywork
Fix temp gauge
Finish designing ECU PCB and sourcing drivetrain upgrade parts

Forester stuff left to do:
New carpet, clean all seats, some new plastics
Install fenders
Fix rust
Rear suspension
gently caress NO TO ALL OF THAT
Tires DONE
Rear left brake line
Battery tiedown DONE
Evap fix, o2 sensor gently caress TO THE HELL NO
Forester status: DNR. Limp this fucker along till something catastrophic breaks, part it out, and swear off boxer-engined Subarus forever.

MJ stuff left to do:
Exhaust install
Fix trans computer issue, probably a fuse blown
Install d30
Fix front lighting
Fix leaky brake line union and rebleed
Replace rusty lug stud and all lug nuts
One more tire
Insure, register, inspect
New radiator wouldn't hurt
(Then the actual project starts...)

5 ton:
rockers, injectors, valve lash, valve covers
fill tires, check brake lines
Fix or replace latches and passenger windshield
Insure, register, "inspect"
(Then the actual project starts...)

Other blue MJ:
Picking it up from the sellers shop would be a good start.

White MJ, red XJ: SAWZALL TIME, BITCHES

Roadmaster:
- fix cooling system so it stops barfing coolant everywhere
- plugs, wires, cap, rotor, rear shocks
- fix a variety of small niggling issues like various windows not wanting to stay in their tracks, door cards being GM door cards, etc
- find out why it's dying at random, seemingly when it hits certain bumps at low speed, and fix it

Jesus christ this is gonna take all summer. And fall. And winter. And probably spring and summer too :sigh:

House has killed my availability for wrenching projects.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

kastein posted:

Justy stuff left to do:
Finish designing ECU PCB and sourcing drivetrain upgrade parts

Did I miss something? What's going on there?

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
The stock ECU is pretty lovely. Mine works and I have a spare but they don't have very good throttle sensing, the O2 sensors suck, the wiring harness is badly designed, etc so I am turning this into a project I will never finish.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Just tried the snowblower tractor out. Never been so pissed in my life.

0 out of 10.

I bought a set of chains for it and put them on a few nights ago. Today tried to clear the road and it was the most useless goddamn thing ever.

No traction, even with the diff locked and chains, it would spin tires and sink in going up any sort of hill, or when turning. Needs the snow tires for sure, guess I have to figure out a spacer arrangement now.

Snowblower is... pathetic. And plugs up every 30 seconds. Needs a smaller driven pulley I think, and a fluidfilm treatment so it stops loving plugging.

So basically it doesn't throw snow effectively, drive effectively, or work in any useful way. God drat it.

Adiabatic
Nov 18, 2007

What have you assholes done now?
Have you tried having less snow? It works well down here.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Yeah it worked great up till this storm but have you ever seen how happy a dog in snow is? Worth it.

Also don't you have like 3 feet of snow right now? :v:

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

For the random dying on the Roadmaster check the connection on the engine speed sensor just for hahas. Ask me about that happy fun time figuring that simple problem.

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde

kastein posted:

Yeah it worked great up till this storm but have you ever seen how happy a dog in snow is? Worth it.

Also don't you have like 3 feet of snow right now? :v:

lol that poo poo all melted to negligible levels within 4 days.

Can confirm dog in snow is a great thing.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

kastein posted:

Just tried the snowblower tractor out. Never been so pissed in my life.

0 out of 10.

I bought a set of chains for it and put them on a few nights ago. Today tried to clear the road and it was the most useless goddamn thing ever.

No traction, even with the diff locked and chains, it would spin tires and sink in going up any sort of hill, or when turning. Needs the snow tires for sure, guess I have to figure out a spacer arrangement now.

Snowblower is... pathetic. And plugs up every 30 seconds. Needs a smaller driven pulley I think, and a fluidfilm treatment so it stops loving plugging.

So basically it doesn't throw snow effectively, drive effectively, or work in any useful way. God drat it.

I was having trouble with my blower this storm too, the 1" of heavy-rear end slush kept sticking to the chute and making it slowly shoot lower and lower. Awful-sauce.

iForge
Oct 28, 2010

Apple's new "iBlacksmith Suite: Professional Edition" features the iForge, iAnvil, and the iHammer.
Can confirm higher RPMS on the impeller will help you. My snowblower is pitiful if you dont have it cranked to 100%

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
And doing a little mod helps too. Bolt on some rubber conveyor belting to each impeller blade, it makes a huge difference.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
By "fluidfilm" treatment, do you mean spraying something like the Kroil all over the inside of the chute and blades? Because this is what we did in the army and it worked surprisingly well (which means it definitely wasn't an army invention).

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Geirskogul posted:

By "fluidfilm" treatment, do you mean spraying something like the Kroil all over the inside of the chute and blades? Because this is what we did in the army and it worked surprisingly well (which means it definitely wasn't an army invention).

He means Fluid Film.

It's made of sheeps!

http://www.fluid-film.com/

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Nice(r) weather is on the way. I'm thinking the 5 ton may be first on the list because I want the bridgeport untarped and moved into the basement, which is best accomplished (i.e. only possible to accomplish) using a reanimated military truck.

Also because I already own all the parts it needs (I think...) and it's been nearly two years since I touched it :sigh:

Disgruntled Bovine
Jul 5, 2010

kastein posted:

Nice(r) weather is on the way. I'm thinking the 5 ton may be first on the list because I want the bridgeport untarped and moved into the basement, which is best accomplished (i.e. only possible to accomplish) using a reanimated military truck.

Also because I already own all the parts it needs (I think...) and it's been nearly two years since I touched it :sigh:

When you get to that stage I wouldn't mind coming to offer assistance with that project. I hope the poor thing has survived the past two winters.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I hope so too. It looked fine last spring when I got back to the house and I popped the hood for a look-see, so I'm not too too worried.

Worstcase I might have to brakleen the gently caress out of some things I left uncovered and probably flush the oil from it sitting for like four years, hell, even how it came from the factory that would be a great idea since it has no PCV system, just a road draft slobber-snorkel.

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

Disgruntled Bovine posted:

When you get to that stage I wouldn't mind coming to offer assistance with that project. I hope the poor thing has survived the past two winters.

I got to be "soldier B" once to help with the 5-ton. It was an experience.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
So yesterday I took the day off to fix the 88 MJ and get it insured and registered. Half of one of those things happened.

Problems I started the day with:
- front and rear lighting known non operational. Thought all I needed to do was replace some bulbs and splice a new headlamp socket on the passenger side.
- minor wiring harness fuckery near bulkhead connector by brake booster
- minor brake fluid leak on line to rear of chassis due to a crummy flare I did 2 years ago
- no exhaust (just need to bolt an all-stock one on)
- radiator could stand replacing, it's real bad but still holds water
- battery junk
- auto trans wiring issue resulting in no electronic shifting (vehicle could still be driven and shifted manually, just missing 2nd gear and no tq lockup. Textbook signs of a dead TCU power bus.)
- bad wheel bearing on left front, probably-bad wheel bearing on right front

Intended repairs:
- replace bulbs, splice headlamp socket, install headlamp
- poke wiring harness fuckery till it works, go pass inspection before it stops working, then fix it right on my own time now that vehicle is legal
- tighten flare until leak stops
- bolt on stock exhaust
- jump battery and drive it around the block a dozen times
- maybe replace radiator if I get bored
- replace TCU fuse, laugh, move on with life
- swap front wheel bearings and brake rotors+pads from red toilet jeep

What actually happened:
- poke header panel, note that random bulbs that worked before suddenly stopped working. Poke it again. Lights work again. Give up for now, time for exhaust work
- crawl under, take stock of what needs replacing, buy new muffler and catalytic converterpiece of exhaust pipe, hang tailpipe. Notice a dangling wire that is definitely not OEM:

DANGER DANGER WILL ROBINSON
A REDNECK HILLFUCK HAS WORKED ON THIS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Goddamnit previous owner don't gently caress with me

just kidding, that's AMC factory wiring complete with a half assed insulating wrap of DUCT TAPE straight over bare metal in a harness exposed to the weather, the 80s were a magical time

Previous owner fuckery:

Keep your dickbeaters off my goddamn wiring if you don't know what you are doing! :mad:

The front end of the random wire I found threaded through the undercarriage:

I have no idea what it was once spliced to but it's not connected to anything up here anymore. Judging by the ragged end, "spliced" is a rather forgiving name for what was done
e: also, petcock!

More farmer-fabricobbled bullshit, this time melted twisted wires, bad splices, bare wires, and other nonsense:


More. This time, we also have melted together harness chunks and abandoned in place pieces of blue wire, which means it was part of the marker light circuit:


Again, keep your booger hooks off my loving wiring if you don't know what you're doing. Pulling the loom off and letting it ride on a sheetmetal edge results in short circuits. The other end of that fabricobbled random wire was probably once connected to the bare spot on the brown wire.


Why do I think that? Because here it is:

gently caress YOU LEAVE WIRES ALONE IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH THEM

While looking at the frontend wiring I see this once I drop the grille:

gently caress it, if it holds water it will be left in place until I feel like putting one of my spares in and converting to open cooling. Once it's registered I only have 7 days to get it inspected and this won't fail it so who cares, I can do that after it has the all-important inspection sticker.

Shits mint

bet those fins piled at the bottom are cooling almost as well as the ones still left, which fall out if you breathe on them funny

It's cool, bro


A WILD AMC FACTORY DUCT TAPE APPEARS

(it's not very effective)

I spent several hours unfucking the front lighting with the rear lighting completely disconnected. Got the front lights all working again, then took the rear harness out, stripped every abandoned-in-place melted wire out, stripped out every single PO "repair", and rebuilt what was left from scratch using all heatshrink butt splices. Tested it and it just plain works again, no bypass wires or bullshit required. The PO was his own worst enemy on this thing. So I shrunk all the splices, ziptied the hell out of it (as pictured), reloomed it, installed, and retested. Works great installed too.

Also threw a new battery in it and discovered that while it will crank it won't start. Seems to have no spark, pump primes and I have fuel pressure though. Ran great when parked several years ago after ACEofsnett and I put new brake lines and a new fuel tank in it. Debugging that issue is a problem for tonight and tomorrow night, as a friend of mine just supplied me with a :filez: 88 XJ FSM. A few things are different (mechanicals aft of the B pillar, lighting and fuel pump wiring aft of the B pillar) but I know they're all working already so who cares.

All other repairs still have to be done. Goddamnit, previous owner, you have hosed me again.

kastein fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Mar 11, 2016

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
hahah my little crazy italian grandma worked part time in a plant up in the UP doing AMC harnesses about that time, sorry about that bud

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I would just like to say that "fabricobbled" is my new favorite word.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Problems:
- front and rear lighting known non operational.
- minor wiring harness fuckery near bulkhead connector by brake booster - ignoring this till I rebuild the whole harness
- minor brake fluid leak on line to rear of chassis due to a crummy flare I did 2 years ago - least of my issues right now
- no exhaust
- radiator could stand replacing, it's real bad but still holds water
- battery junk
- auto trans wiring issue resulting in no electronic shifting (vehicle could still be driven and shifted manually, just missing 2nd gear and no tq lockup. Textbook signs of a dead TCU power bus.)
- bad wheel bearing on left front, probably-bad wheel bearing on right front

fixed the TCU power (fuse and socket were melted as expected) today.

Also got the motherfucker to start! The CPS went bad. No idea how, it was fine when I parked it, now it is bad. Bought a new one at O'Reilly and whaddya know it started right up.

Also cleaned up the tar packing in C101 (dumbass design) and fixed the fuel pump ground I forgot to put back on last time I messed with it, and refreshed the ICM to coil connections (another dumbass design.) Pictures and video tomorrow hopefully.

Took it for a 100 foot drive and... it is a handful. Feels like seized ujoints in the steering shaft, maybe bad ps pump or low fluid, low brake fluid, and some sort of a running issue I don't care about, might be that it only has a gallon in the tank, might be a stuck open egr solenoid.

Oh well IT MOVED ON ITS OWN. For the first time in two years or so. Wheel bearings and balljoints (or just the whole axle from the red jeep, gently caress it) and brake/steering fuckery next weekend I guess. Goddammit.

kastein fucked around with this message at 05:54 on May 17, 2023

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde
H̨E ͘I̴S ҉R̨IS̨EN͞

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Problems:
- front and rear lighting known non operational.
- minor wiring harness fuckery near bulkhead connector by brake booster - ignoring this till I rebuild the whole harness
- minor brake fluid leak on line to rear of chassis due to a crummy flare I did 2 years ago - least of my issues right now
- no exhaust
- radiator could stand replacing, it's real bad but still holds water
- battery junk
- auto trans wiring issue resulting in no electronic shifting (vehicle could still be driven and shifted manually, just missing 2nd gear and no tq lockup. Textbook signs of a dead TCU power bus.)
- bad wheel bearing on left front, probably-bad wheel bearing on right front
- seized ujoints in the steering shaft and incredibly low power steering fluid

more story/pics to be added later but I did brand new wheel bearings, upper balljoints, brake rotors, pads, and some lugnuts today. The loving hick idiot I bought the axle from (who also welded the worlds worst LCA mount braces and "truss" onto it) had welded the upper balljoints into the axle housing, so this was extra funtimes to get them back out. As for the seized ujoints in the steering shaft and nonexistent steering power assist, I jacked it up and spun the steering wheel lock to lock until it was mostly freed up, then sprayed wd40 on the ujoints and filled the pump reservoir with fluid from a 3 year old opened bottle of PS fluid until it shut the gently caress up, then spun it lock to lock another few dozen times :v:

Shits mint.

Seriously though, once I make sure the ebrake works, fix the minor running issue, fill the washer fluid tank, scrape 4.5 years worth of accumulated tree debris and dust off the windshield, and replace the wiper blades, I think it's ready to register and get inspected! :aaa:

e: oh yeah maybe jam a street sign between the carpet and the small hole in the floor on the driver side if they care. they didn't give even a single gently caress last time because I blew through a mudhole 5 minutes before bringing it in, so it was pooping muddy water all over and the guy didn't feel like risking mud to the eye while inspecting the undercarriage :haw:

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

kastein posted:


e: oh yeah maybe jam a street sign between the carpet and the small hole in the floor on the driver side if they care. they didn't give even a single gently caress last time because I blew through a mudhole 5 minutes before bringing it in, so it was pooping muddy water all over and the guy didn't feel like risking mud to the eye while inspecting the undercarriage :haw:

In the military, we call that cover and concealment :v:

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I tested the e-brake to see if it would hold Sunday night and the answer is HAHAHAHHAA NO.

So it looks like rather than loving with old lovely drum brake parts I am going to just shotgun another 100 bucks worth of crap at it and have brand new rear brakes* too. I don't think I've ever willingly spent money on drum brakes for a dana 35 but goddammit I want this truck on the road three weeks ago.

Rockauto order #billionty placed... due for delivery Friday.

* aside from drums. I draw the line at spending $70 on drums for a dana 35 and the old ones look pretty good anyways.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
So last Friday my starter completely quit on the way to work, after hiccuping all week. Whacking it with a 1/2 drive extension got it working again but the writing was on the wall. Didn't feel like paying 150 for one at autozone and the junkyard is 1 mile off the route I take to work, so...


These bolt into the same spot, surprisingly. There are differences, but who cares. The important part is auto vs manual on EJ25 starters it seems, the stickout on the bendix gear is different. 03 outback ej251 5mt starter on the left, 00 forester ej251 5mt starter on the right.


gently caress YOU BUSTED rear end CAR

Since I have a 4 bolt phase 1 ej22 bottom end in this car and an 8 bolt phase 2 trans, the starter is held in by one bolt and the pilot diameter of its housing locates it. Not ideal but it sure did make the swap fast! I think I spent more time carefully unhooking and protecting the live battery lead (didn't want to lose my radio presets and ecu learned tune... do as I say, not as I do) than I did swapping the starters.


gently caress YOU BUSTED rear end STARTER

I bought a bunch of parts to rebuild it, so I will have a spare soon.

Last weekend I did an assload of frontend work on the MJ. Got a few pictures.

New unit bearings, upper balljoints, rotors. Pads were new when I swapped the axle in and had maybe 75 feet of driving on them so I reused them. Lower balljoints were fine and this axle is temporary so they stayed in.


The loving moron who sold this axle to me had welded in the upper balljoints with a fat weld bead all the way around. That was a party to grind out. gently caress you PO


New rear brakes last night. Replaced everything except the cylinder, parking brake strut and lever, and rotor. The cylinder seemed fine and I didn't want to replace brake hardlines, the rotor was annoyingly expensive for a temporary fix, and the other two parts were out of stock and in good condition.

Still have to hook up the other end of the new parking brake cables and rebleed the brakes, they are spongy as hell.

And then...

I registered it! Sailed right through the RMV after paying tax/title/registration fees.

First time in 1.5 years I've had a registered, insured jeep, and first time in 3 years I've had a registered, insured, street legal jeep. Good to be back.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


I wonder if the one with the giant tumor solenoid is a nippondenso one and the other is made by someone else.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

Elmnt80 posted:

I wonder if the one with the giant tumor solenoid is a nippondenso one and the other is made by someone else.

The "giant tumor solenoid" is actually the motor. The other half of the thing has a weird reduction gear drive and a big strange mushroom plunger thingy that has the combind function of pushing out the bendix gear and actuating the high current contacts. Which are too small and eventually burn out.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Took its inagural drive yesterday. Two short trips to the closest scrapyard to jettison a 3 year buildup of house and jeep repair scrapmetal.

Things of note:
- brakes are loving scary, but functional. It needs rebleeding and maybe a new MC
- ebrake cable is not hooked up right. Need to reattach and maybe replace the front cable too, which will involve pulling a seat and lifting the carpet. Can't wait to see the rotten floors.
- it idles like poo poo and runs worse. Need to do plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, make sure the egr is blocked off, and maybe check compression and fuel pressure regulation.
- it stalls if you let off the gas and hit the brakes too quickly without having the trans in 1-2. Doesn't matter if it's in first or second anyways, so I suspect this is because the AW4's engine braking with the shifter in 1-2 is excellent due to it basically disabling the normal overrunning sprag so the only thing that slips is the converter, not a trans control subsystem issue.
- mechanical fan clutch and radiator are just phoning it in at this point, electric fan is gone, still didn't overheat so this is the worlds first aircooled 4.0
- steering has about a quarter turn of play in it
- oh and it got deathwobble at 45 so I'm not doing highway trips anytime soon, I have frontend work and an alignment to do.

otherwise, she's mint! :v:

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Yesterday I hosed around with the wiring and figured out that the #1 injector was doing NOTHING, due to a wad of green corrosion residue inside the connector and no continuity. Cleaned that up and it sounds a lot less like a cammed V8 now, but still stalls if you let off the throttle abruptly with the trans in 3rd, OD, or reverse, or in 1-2 while moving too slowly. The #6 cylinder is also doing nothing, but I think it's ignition or engine internal related not injection since I can hear the injector clonking away happily with a mechanics stethescopescrewdriver pressed against my ear. Cleaned the posts in the distributor cap, it sounded a little better after so it's going to get an ignition tuneup next. I also cleaned up a large quantity of bullshit RENIX vacuum hoses, deleted all the vac hoses for the EGR and a few other things. Still need to remove and block off the EGR, or just block it off because this motor isn't staying in here longterm anyways, but I think it's not active right now since the vac hoses are disconnected.

The brakes seem firmer even without me doing anything to them, so I need to double check everything.

Also found the source of my deathwobble rather quickly once I had my GF wiggle the steering wheel for me while I looked at things:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fV0skdHFIn8
Too bad I wasted a few hours driving around different parts stores looking for a new axle-end bushing for this track bar when I put the d30 in, because it's going in the scrapmetal pile as soon as a new one arrives from digikey.

"Tested" the FPR (blocked off its vacuum source, and also tried giving it zero vacuum) with zero idle change, so I need to get a fuel pressure gauge (can't loving find mine ANYWHERE... found both of my compression testers though) and retest, and maybe just throw an FPR at it.

I'm starting to suspect the throttle body is gunked up or the IAC is dead, causing my throttle-slam stalling issues. Guess I'll run a can of TB cleaner through it sometime soon.

I am replacing far more garbage on this RENIX pile of poo poo powerplant than I wanted to, but if it makes the truck reliable till I 4x4 swap it or put a giant motor in it, it's worth it.

So, remaining issues:
- I made the ebrake cables worse than they were
- track bar is hosed
- ignition system needs refresh
- radiator needs replacement
- clutch fan needs replacement
- FPR might need doing?
- brake system still acting hinky

1 step forward, 2 steps back.

kastein fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Mar 28, 2016

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Digikey sells suspension parts?

Or is this a case of them stocking rubber bits for some electronics application, and you happen to know one is exactly the right size?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

I'm gonna bet "as soon as the new one arrives from Digikey" is a phrase Ken uses so often at work that he typed it on autopilot.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

Safety Dance posted:

I'm gonna bet "as soon as the new one arrives from Digikey" is a phrase Ken uses so often at work that he typed it on autopilot.

Pretty sure you nailed it.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Safety Dance posted:

I'm gonna bet "as soon as the new one arrives from Digikey" is a phrase Ken uses so often at work that he typed it on autopilot.

you are correct. I have done three digikey orders in the last week and another is going in today. I've got digikey on the brain :downs:

(I meant rockauto)

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
I guess Rockauto and Digikey are basically the same, anyway. Tons of selection, super low prices, but often frustratingly expensive and slow shipping.

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.
I just use rock auto to research part numbers these days.

Then I buy the parts on amazon.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I was going to do that but I managed to get every single part for my latest order from a single warehouse. :smuggo:

Did have to select an "incompatible" set of spark plug wires that I know will work fine (possibly with the exception of the coil-to-distributor lead, which is alright on the existing set) to make it happen, but oh well. I also skipped the fuel pressure regulator because there's no loving way I'm spending 40 bucks on one of those when I can get one at the junkyard for almost nothing or throw up my hands in disgust and temporarily swap in an HO drivetrain for about 200 bucks.

My whole order will allegedly be here Thursday, so here's hoping it arrives on time and I can get the drat thing running right, ebrakes working, and inspected this weekend.

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Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Trying to make the "A" and "B" warehouse icons disappear, while still saving money versus a second shipping fee, is part of the game.

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