Kritzkrieg Kop posted:What are some cool Canadian coins? All I know are the sterile new coins with boring designs that they sell at the post office marked up to 500%. The mint sells stuff directly, and some of them are really really nice. I think it's too late, but the Diamond Jubilee silver round was freakin' gorgeous:  Basically go to https://www.mint.ca and find something attractive to you. There's a lot of ugly poo poo but there's some really nice stuff.
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Feb 5, 2013 14:41
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Aika posted:So what are morgans worth? I have several 1922s and I believe an 1878 in good, circulated condition. I can't check the mint mark because i'm in another country -- but i'm really curious! Morgans are generally worth $30 minimum in low circulated condition. Do you mean 1921? That's when the Morgan series ended and the Peace series began. None of the three possible Mints for the 1921 Morgan are that scarce. As for the 1878, there are many different varieties that vary in price depending on how many tail feathers the eagle has. And if you have a CC (Carson City) mintmark, its worth a bit more. Same goes for almost every coin with a CC mintmark--Carson City coins tend to be relatively scarce. It should be pretty easy and cheap to get mint condition pennies--it would be hard to buy them individually because it wouldn't be worth it to the seller, but you should be able to find a set like this pretty easily. Kritzkrieg Kop posted:What are some cool Canadian coins? All I know are the sterile new coins with boring designs that they sell at the post office marked up to 500%. From what I know of it, Canadian coinage tends to be pretty bland. Coins pre-1968 were struck in silver (except for the pennies and nickels), so there's that. I do think the silver and gold maple leaf bullion coins are pretty nice:  I also like the silver Voyageur dollars, old Canadian bank tokens like this halfpenny one, the late 19th/early 20th c. large cents, and the brass wartime nickels. I'd also recommend checking out the mint website as well as ebay for modern commemoratives.
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Feb 6, 2013 02:38
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My great-grandfather gave me some old coins from around the civil war era. I've always wondered if they're anything special. I have the following pennies: 1861, wear typical of coins I'd see in circulation but everything visible 1858, barely visible, eagle instead of indian on the front 1859, extremely worn 1882, 7 punched in the front, much thinner than the earlier ones 1858, pitting on the back, well worn Three too worn to determine year, one with a cross stamped on it. I didn't see a mint mark on any of these. Do you know where I would look? There is a 2 cent coin from 1864, extremely worn with a 64 stamped into the middle of the seal. He also included some non-American coins that I don't recognize. How valuable is defunct currency like communist era Eastern european, pre-Euro western european, or old Hong Kong money? Any time I had a relative go overseas I've always asked them to bring me some pocket change back so I have a bunch of old international coins and bills sitting around.
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Feb 6, 2013 15:34
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I've got a couple 1922 Peace dollars that I want to sell but they are pretty tarnished, is it safe to just use some silver polish on them?
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Feb 6, 2013 20:49
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MrWilderheap posted:I've got a couple 1922 Peace dollars that I want to sell but they are pretty tarnished, is it safe to just use some silver polish on them? Please don't! Just like refinishing an old piece of furniture, much of the value comes from keeping the coin as-is. That beautiful toning on the Morgan dollar Ron Don Volante posted? Silver polish would've taken it away, plus all the rubbing you'd have to do would leave little marks that downgrade the coin's condition. Even if your coins have dark black tarnish, it's best to let an expert clean them after they've bought them from you.
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Feb 6, 2013 23:48
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Leviathan Song posted:My great-grandfather gave me some old coins from around the civil war era. I've always wondered if they're anything special. The Indian Head cent (1859-1909)  There aren't any mintmarks on these because they were minted almost exclusively at the Philadelphia mint, which had no mintmark as it was the original mint of the U.S. 1861: $15-20 1882: $1-2 1859: <$10 The Flying Eagle cent (1856-1858)  Replaced the large (half dollar-size) pure copper cents that had been struck since 1793 (they became too expensive to make). Only lasted a couple years because the coin was designed poorly and didn't strike well. People picked these out of circulation at the time, so they're fairly cheap today. 1858: $10 1858 pitted: $5 worn cents: <$1, the cross stamped one might have some collectible appeal The Two-cent piece (1864-1873)  During the Civil War, people started hoarding coins because they thought coins would hold their value better than paper money in case of a Northern defeat. The U.S. gov started striking these to address the shortage of coins. 1864: the most common date. probably $5-10, though it's possible the stamp could have some significance The general rule for foreign coins/currency is that if it was minted in the last 60 years or so, it probably has no value. The communist stuff might have some collectors--I'd look around on eBay to see if any of it's sold on there. MrWilderheap posted:I've got a couple 1922 Peace dollars that I want to sell but they are pretty tarnished, is it safe to just use some silver polish on them? As obscure_reference said, cleaning your coins is literally one of the worst things you can do (except for ancient coins). 9 times out of 10, your attempt to clean the coin will lower the value. Unless you want to try to sell them to people who know nothing about coins, like at a garage sale or something, don't clean them. A dark patina can actually be considered attractive for old silver coins. A polished silver coin looks like poo poo (at least in the eyes of a collector).
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Feb 7, 2013 01:42
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So my grandpa left me these coins:           They're all definitely circulated, probably completely devalued but it'd still be awesome if you could tell me what I've got. Except please don't say anything good about the 1885  because I actually lost it on the bus the day he gave them to me  Also sorry for the poor image quality, these are photos I took some time ago and I had to use my phone.
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Feb 7, 2013 19:12
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Pooper Trooper posted:So my grandpa left me these coins: Any pictures are better than no pictures. With these, I can actually take a stab at properly grading the coins. Coins are graded on a 70 point scale with a corresponding acronym, MS-70 being a perfect mint state coin with all details fully struck (this is virtually impossible to attain except for some 21st century coins) and 1 being a featureless disc of metal. 60+ is mint state (or uncirculated), which means the coin has no discernible wear. A higher grade doesn't always mean a higher price though--an AU ("about uncirculated")-58 coin might have a tiny amount of wear but still be a lot nicer than a MS-60. Not every number in the scale is used, as the difference between a AU-58 and an AU-59 coin would be impossible to determine--certain numbers are used much more frequently. 1893-S Double Eagle: It's hard to tell how much luster that coin has, but judging by the amount of wear alone I'd grade it AU-50, worth about $1800. 1885-P Eagle: Again, luster is hard to determine, but I'll say AU-50. Somebody on that bus became $900 richer  1942 Mercury dime: VF (very fine)-30 $3 1922 Peace dollar: XF (extra fine)-40: Dirt and rim ding decrease the value a bit, so maybe $25 1913 Barber dime: G (good)-4: $5 1865 Two-cent piece: G (good)-8: $10
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Feb 7, 2013 22:45
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Boring Canadian coins? What about the glow-in-the-dark DINOSAUR quarters? Those are cool as a moustache. Also, the 1958 silver dollar has an awesome totem pole on the front.
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Feb 8, 2013 20:42
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Great Horny Toads! posted:Boring Canadian coins? What about the glow-in-the-dark DINOSAUR quarters? Those are cool as a moustache. Also, the 1958 silver dollar has an awesome totem pole on the front. I got one of those dino quarters and it's awesome. It's the coin that inspired me to start a science/space themed coin collection! Thanks for the info Ron Don Volante! Can I ask though, I'm trying to understand something. I've seen rolls of coins, pennies and such in collectors' shops and I can't figure out how they're collectable. I mean, they're not necessarily that old, they're just uncirculated. Is that fact alone enough to justify them going for like 5x their face value? Coin grading and collecting is a bizarre world but I've always found it very interesting and some coins are just gorgeous to look at.
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Feb 8, 2013 21:48
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Pooper Trooper posted:I got one of those dino quarters 
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Feb 9, 2013 02:40
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Ron Don Volante posted:The Flying Eagle cent (1856-1858) I've always liked this one and found it interesting because of its short lifespan and also because they were made right before the US Civil War.
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Feb 9, 2013 06:59
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dino. posted:TELL ME ABOUT DINO COINS. Oh they're 2 25c coins issued by the Canadian Mint, one in 2012 and one to be issued in 2013 as part of the Prehistoric Creatures series. The 2012 coin was minted in 25,000 pieces and featured a Pachyrhinosaurus Lakustai while the 2013 one features a Quetzalcoatlus and will be issued in 30,000 pieces. Oh, did I mention their skeletons glow in the dark? I didn't? Well they loving do! Even though their metal is pretty cheap (it's a nickel-copper alloy) they sell on ebay for 2-3 times their mint price (29.95CAD).
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Feb 9, 2013 11:12
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I guess most of these are worth something purely due to their silver, but there were a few I couldn't figure out, mostly due to wear. I have no idea what that first one is. Does anyone recognize it by the design?         
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Feb 9, 2013 11:51
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I work in a bank and get to see some cool stuff. We get some really dumb customers nearly every day who come in and ask for specific rare coins as if we just keep them around to withdraw and wouldn't take them home ourselves. My husband has a coin collection that I try to add to considering the amount of coin I see every day but its hard to identify what's worth looking through in rolls. Any advice? Someone told me once that if a roll of dimes isn't two toned from the side to go through it but I don't know if its true or why. Something to do with the silver content?
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Feb 9, 2013 16:54
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john mayer posted:I work in a bank and get to see some cool stuff. We get some really dumb customers nearly every day who come in and ask for specific rare coins as if we just keep them around to withdraw and wouldn't take them home ourselves. Quarters and dimes minted before 1965 are made of silver, so from the edge you can see that they are not nickel-copper sandwiched together.
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Feb 9, 2013 20:17
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Pooper Trooper posted:
Some people like to collect rolls of modern coins in the (in my opinion) misguided hope that they'll eventually be worth something. They might also be breaking the rolls open and looking for coins to send off to grading companies in the hope of getting a MS-69 or MS-70, which can demand a premium. I didn't know Canada made glow-in-the-dark dinosaur coins! I guess I have to take back what I said about Canadian coins being boring. Concurred posted:I guess most of these are worth something purely due to their silver, but there were a few I couldn't figure out, mostly due to wear. That's a very well-worn Barber quarter (1892-1916).  Named after the designer, Mint Engraver Charles Barber. In 1892, the nation was growing tired with the Seated Liberty design used on the silver denominations. The Mint decided to hold a $500 contest to find a suitable design replacement. The thousands of entries from all over the country were all terrible, so Barber just designed it himself. The design, used on the dime, quarter, and half dollar, wasn't very popular. Saint-Gaudens made this brutal criticism: "This is inept; this looks like it had been designed by a young lady of sixteen, a miss who had taken only a few lessons in modeling." Your Barber quarter is so featureless that it isn't worth much more than bullion value, so $5-6. Liberty Head nickel (1883-1913)  A wealthy industrialist who owned nickel mines lobbied the government to start producing nickel-alloy coins. He was successful in getting the Mint to start producing nickel-copper 5-cent and 3-cent coins. Previously, both were made of silver. The first true nickel, the Shield nickel, didn't strike well because of its design. The Liberty Head was designed by Charles Barber to replace it. Originally, the reverse of the nickel featured just a "V". Because it was roughly the same diameter as the half-eagle $5 gold coins, some individuals started gold-plating them and passing them off as half-eagles. The Mint caught wind of this and quickly added the word "cents" under the V. 1910 G-4: $1 Standing Liberty Quarter (1916-1930)  Designed to replace the Barber quarters. Liberty was originally holding a broadsword but that was deemed too belligerent of a design at the time. It's important to consider the historical context in which this coin was designed. Liberty is looking towards the east, facing the European war, with her shield pointed in the same direction. She doesn't want to get involved, but at the same time she's ready to gently caress poo poo up if need be. Liberty was originally topless, but in 1917 as it looked like the U.S. was about to enter war with Germany, the coin was redesigned to give Liberty a chainmail vest. The topless Standing Liberty quarters (1916 and part of 1917) are worth more because coin collectors are perverts. The date on the design was originally raised too high and wore off quickly, so no-date coins (pre-1925) are common. No-date quarter: $6 Walking Liberty halves: $15 ea Franklin halves: $13-14 ea Eisenhower dollars/Kennedy bicentennial/SBA dollar: face value Kennedy halves (1965-70): $5 ea I can't really tell what those coins in the left column of your first picture are without a closer look. john mayer posted:I work in a bank and get to see some cool stuff. We get some really dumb customers nearly every day who come in and ask for specific rare coins as if we just keep them around to withdraw and wouldn't take them home ourselves. Loki is right, just look at the sides of the coins. Nickel-clad copper coins have a brown streak along the edge, silver coins are just silver. And if you spot a dime, quarter, or half dollar in loose change that looks a bit lighter colored, take a closer look. Everything pre-1965 is silver. Half dollars from 1965-70 are 40% silver and worth $5 ea. Ron Don Volante fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Feb 10, 2013 |
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Feb 9, 2013 20:53
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They're just some old foreign coins I had, I didn't see what you see about most of them being mostly worthless. The 2nd one from the bottom on the left is a German 2 deutsch mark from 1947 with Max Planck on it, I just thought it looked neat and was in decent condition.
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Feb 9, 2013 22:46
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My husband inherited a bunch of coins and such. He has 17 1953 two dollar bills, some '53 ten dollar bills, a set of really nice looking 1927 coins--penny, nickel, dime, quarter, half dollar that are set in a case, small stack of "Franklin type liberty walker type" silver half dollars (that are in great shape with only what I assume is tarnish on them)from 1950 to 1959. He has....oh, I'll just make a list of the things that are in good shape and not worn down and see if I can get you some photos later. He has: a 1925 Liberty Head Silver dollar, a 1927 Liberty Head silver dollar, a fuckload of pennies and dimes from the 1920s and late teens, an 1897 silver dollar (really great shape, just discolored), a 1925 silver dollar (Liberty head), a 1921 Liberty head silver dollar (totally gross colored), an 1891 Liberty head silver dollar that is in really good shape with little scuffing, about 30 Kennedy half dollars from 1964 to 1967, and a ton of the walking Liberty type coins from the 1940's, among a bunch of other things.
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Feb 10, 2013 02:04
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Any tips on taking pictures? I can't capture the detail on the coins. I have three that might be worth more than silver value. 1. 1797 British Penny - worn to the point that you can only just make out the date. Not US, but thought you might have some idea about that type of coin. 2. 1897s dollar coin - almost no wear. The wings, lettering, and pretty much everything is totally crisp, but you can tell that the very top points are a little worn (the breast of the eagle and the very highest parts of the hair). Not shiny with a consistent gray patina. 3. 1917 quarter - don't see a mint mark. Moderately worn, can make out some detail on the shield but details on the face/boob are gone. The back is a better than the front. This is the best pic I could capture. 
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Feb 10, 2013 03:33
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This is a great thread! I think I have some old coins somewhere in the attic, and you're getting me interested in the hobby. Where did you learn what you know? Are there any good websites or books I should look into?
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Feb 10, 2013 04:06
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MayakovskyMarmite posted:Any tips on taking pictures? I can't capture the detail on the coins. Using a scanner is the best option, if you have one.
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Feb 10, 2013 04:19
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Interesting thread so far!john mayer posted:I work in a bank and get to see some cool stuff. We get some really dumb customers nearly every day who come in and ask for specific rare coins as if we just keep them around to withdraw and wouldn't take them home ourselves. Does the bank mind you doing this? Kind of seems like the vending machine guy going through the bottles looking for winning prizes. If you found a really valuable one would the bank take it?
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Feb 10, 2013 04:21
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Ron Don Volante posted:The bicentennial coins, SBA dollars, and Eisenhower dollars are all worth little more than face value. Eisenhowers had a proof sets from 1970-1976 that were 40% silver. I have actually encountered some of these in "circulation". The silver ones will weigh 24.6g and the non silver ones weigh 22.6g. They are worth roughly $10 in silver.
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Feb 10, 2013 07:17
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Arrgytehpirate posted:This is a great thread! I think I have some old coins somewhere in the attic, and you're getting me interested in the hobby. Where did you learn what you know? Are there any good websites or books I should look into? https://www.coinfacts.com is a really good resource. It's no longer updated but provides excellent info on rarity, mintmarks and variaties.
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Feb 10, 2013 14:19
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errol _flynn posted:My husband inherited a bunch of coins and such. He has 17 1953 two dollar bills, some '53 ten dollar bills, a set of really nice looking 1927 coins--penny, nickel, dime, quarter, half dollar that are set in a case, small stack of "Franklin type liberty walker type" silver half dollars (that are in great shape with only what I assume is tarnish on them)from 1950 to 1959. He has....oh, I'll just make a list of the things that are in good shape and not worn down and see if I can get you some photos later. The 1953 $2 bills seem to be worth about $4 in circulated condition, the $10 bills seem to be upwards of $20. I really don't know much about paper money though, so take that with a grain of salt. I do know that if a bill has a star in its serial number, it goes for a significant premium. As for the 1927 set, does the case say anything on it? Are the coins uncirculated (i.e. no wear, full luster/shininess)? Check for a mintmark on the quarter--it should be next to the lowest star on the left of the date. Franklin half dollars: $13-14 ea I'm just going to assume average circulated condition here: 1925 Peace dollar: $30-35 1927 Peace dollar: $35-40 Pennies and dimes 1910s-20s: a lot of variability here, I would need specific dates/mintmarks 1897 Morgan dollar: if the discoloring is unattractive $25-30. if it looks more like the toned Morgan I posted earlier, $much higher 1921 I'm assuming Morgan dollar: $25 1891 Morgan dollar: $45-50, if it has luster $60+ also check under the wreath for a mintmark. If it's "CC", it's worth a lot more. Walking liberty halves: $15 ea 1964 Kennedy halves: $12 ea 1965-67 halves: $5 ea MayakovskyMarmite posted:Any tips on taking pictures? I can't capture the detail on the coins. Ooh a cartwheel penny! I've always wanted one of those. It was a huge penny struck by Britain in the 18th century. Token coinage hadn't caught on, so coins had to contain an amount of metal valued equal to the denomination (in this case, an ounce of copper). You could probably get $5-10 for a really worn-down one. 1897-S Morgan: Sounds like XF (extremely fine), so $40 1917 quarter: Looks to me like you might have the tits-out (AKA Type 1) variety, in VF-XF. Check the back to be certain. If there aren't any stars below the eagle, it's Type 1 and worth $35. If you have a macro-zoom capability on your camera, that's usually pretty good. Macro-zoom + a tripod + no flash + good natural lighting = best quality. Scanner might be a good option too. Arrgytehpirate posted:This is a great thread! I think I have some old coins somewhere in the attic, and you're getting me interested in the hobby. Where did you learn what you know? Are there any good websites or books I should look into? That's a great question! In coin collecting, or numismatics, the central mantra is "Always buy the book before the coin." The best book for new collectors to buy is undoubtedly the Red Book. It isn't so important that you buy the most recent edition as the prices will always be outdated (and slightly inflated) but it provides solid background information on all the U.S. coin series, and gives you an idea of the relative prices. I personally learned most of what I know from that book and from subscriptions to some numismatic magazines. You might see if you can find a copy of Coins Magazine at wherever they sell magazines nowadays (you could once get single issues at Borders, but so much for that). It isn't a very well-written magazine and the articles can be repetitive, but it still has lots of good info. You might also check out the ANA, the American Numismatic Association. My membership with them has lapsed, but it includes a subscription to a good magazine in addition to some other cool perks. I also learned a lot by going to coin shops and coin shows (where a bunch of dealers come together and sell coins). If you live by at least a semi-large city, there should be at least a couple of coin shows every year. Even if you don't want to buy anything, it's fun to just walk around and see what people are selling. It also might be worthwhile to see if there's a coin club in your area. The members are almost certainly going to be old people, but old people have a lot of knowledge and are always really welcoming to new coin collectors. You could also check out jpscorner for supplies and buy some albums if there any specific series that you're interested in collecting. I got started on a type set ten years ago (one of every type of U.S. coin ever made) and I'm still trying to fill up my album! Finally, I'd check out your local library for books on coins too. There's a good chance they'll have the Red Book, plus lots of other basic informative books. Astiesan posted:Eisenhowers had a proof sets from 1970-1976 that were 40% silver. I have actually encountered some of these in "circulation". The silver ones will weigh 24.6g and the non silver ones weigh 22.6g. True, if you have an Eisenhower dollar with a 'S' mintmark, it was a special San Francisco issue made with 40% silver. Check above the date for the mintmark.
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Feb 10, 2013 21:27
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My grandparents have one of those state quarters like: http://www.cointalk.com/attachments/158538d1327792478-000_1576.jpg but it was misprinted so the back side is rotated 90 degrees.
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Feb 11, 2013 01:33
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I had the chance to buy a US $500 bill from (I think) 1936. The offering price was 500 dollars and it was in mint or near-mint condition. How much money did I miss out on?
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Feb 11, 2013 01:59
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Ron Don Volante posted:
That's gotta be related to the Bohemian Club near San Francisco. this one I mean 
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Feb 11, 2013 04:43
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olin posted:That's gotta be related to the Bohemian Club near San Francisco. Haha holy poo poo you are right. I just looked up the designer--it was a sculptor named Robert Aitken, who did in fact happen to be a member of the Bohemian Club. Orange_Lazarus posted:My grandparents have one of those state quarters like: http://www.cointalk.com/attachments/158538d1327792478-000_1576.jpg The markets for individual types of errors are so small that it really just depends on how much someone is willing to pay. You might search for dealers in error coins online or check out CONECA, an association for error coin collectors. Biggus Duckus posted:I had the chance to buy a US $500 bill from (I think) 1936. The offering price was 500 dollars and it was in mint or near-mint condition. It was most likely the 1934 series--you could have probably doubled your money at least. I'm not much of a paper money guy but I've always thought it would be cool to have one of the super high-denomination bills like the $5000 or $10000. There was even a $100000 bill made for government use. As you can guess, they're all pretty expensive though.
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Feb 11, 2013 06:03
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Ron Don Volante, since you don't have PMs can you send me your email please? Or just shoot me an email to vasilis.tsatsaris@gmail.co,
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Feb 11, 2013 09:36
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Kritzkrieg Kop posted:What are some cool Canadian coins? All I know are the sterile new coins with boring designs that they sell at the post office marked up to 500%. Our circulation coins were rather function-over-form until they started overproducing "commemorative" stuff. The most interesting stuff is all in the banknotes. Like the four dollar and 25 dollar bills. The prices of those are a little prohibitive for people just starting out, but you can get a respectable enough looking 25 cent bill (a.k.a. the shinplaster) on ebay for $30 or less. As for the coins, most Canadians don't know that until 1920 the penny was pretty much the same size as a modern-day quarter. It's neat to have a couple of those around, a couple bucks gets you something that will amuse your friends for a minute or two. Generally, the most interesting looking stuff is the pre-confederation coins. Otherwise, there's not much to look at other than the 1967 centennial set, the victory nickel, the '76 RCMP quarter and the 1992 provinces quaters for the 125th. It was pretty much all downhill after this thing:  Yes, everyone, this is a real Canadian circulation coin.
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Feb 12, 2013 09:27
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Off on a bit of a tangent here, but along the same line of collectibles. This was a trial/sample product issued to select USPS offices back in 1998, was never put on the shelves for sale, and from the best info I can gather it was ordered to be destroyed. I happened to be at present at the right time and place to be given a full set plus 1 duplicate and that's literally all they were ever given. Never seen them anywhere else, no official history about it either.
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Feb 12, 2013 15:04
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Pro-PRC Laowai posted:Never seen them anywhere else, no official history about it either. That's a nifty thing, and it seems there is a place you can start digging for some info. It was among some other products mentioned by the Postal Regulatory Commission back in 2002. Here's the full thing: http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-2002-12-03/html/02-30539.htm and a snippet below (emphasis mine). Postal Regulatory Commission posted:SUMMARY: A petition has been filed seeking review of the jurisdictional It seems to be a rather remarkable coincidence between your username and the very website you should probably snoop around on: https://www.prc.gov
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Feb 12, 2013 16:00
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Antifreeze Head posted:That's a nifty thing, and it seems there is a place you can start digging for some info. It was among some other products mentioned by the Postal Regulatory Commission back in 2002. Here's the full thing: http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-2002-12-03/html/02-30539.htm and a snippet below (emphasis mine). That actually is one of the thing that makes it more complicated. The "First Class Phone Card" thing that existed prior to 1998 and afterwards was their pre-paid phone card thing. A piece of wallet-sized plastic and nothing more. This thing is basically like a normal postcard, with a great big stamp sticker on the front and calling card info underneath. Never seen anyone else with one, never seen anyone who even knew what the hell it was. Which makes it even more difficult to even attempt to place a value on it
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Feb 13, 2013 03:28
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Cool thread. Thank you for taking the time to do this for us. I have three coins that may be worth a few bucks. A 1922 one dollar coin and two 1943 pennies. I took a hi-res photo of both the front and backs of them: http://imgur.com/J5uW3gg][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/J5uW3gg.jpg http://imgur.com/WXDUxr1][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/WXDUxr1.jpg Is this enough for you to make a good estimate of value?
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Feb 14, 2013 01:13
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Yep, those pictures are fine. The Morgan has some nice toning and looks to be in about AU-50 condition, though the obverse is kind of scratched up. $35+ The 1943 steel pennies are in VF-XF (20-40) condition and are worth maybe a buck each. 1943 Steel Lincoln Penny   For those unfamiliar, Lincoln pennies were struck in steel in 1943 due to a copper shortage (copper was used for ammunition). The steel cents proved problematic for a variety of reasons and unpopular with the public, and the Mint switched to a copper-brass alloy for the rest of the war. Steel cents are widely available today and you can acquire a nice mint state example for hardly any money. Steel pennies are also the only magnetic U.S. coin!
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Feb 14, 2013 08:52
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Thanks for the thread. When I get home, I'm going to dig out a coin that I have never seen before or since, take some pictures and post them here. In short, the coin is about the size of a half dollar, maybe smaller. Stamped on one side with a man's profile, and on the reverse, an inscription. Kind of hard to read due to gunk, and it feels very light for its size. I'm guessing it's worthless, but I always wanted to know what it was.
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Feb 15, 2013 22:47
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I have an extremely worn coin from 1797. I don't imagine it's worth anything based on the condition but I'm still curious.  
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Feb 16, 2013 23:51
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Wow, I didn't expect anybody to have an 18th century U.S. coin. They're very rare for the most part. That is a Draped Bust Cent (1796-1807)   I'd grade yours as AG-3/FA-2 (obverse/reverse, AG=about good FA=fair). Not ideal condition but still highly collectible considering the rarity. You could probably get $60 at the very least if you sold it. There are also a ton of design variations for the 1797 based on minute details like how many leaves the wreath has, so it could possibly be worth more if it's one of the rarer die varieties. If the edge of the coin has regular indentations that's one valuable variety. Ron Don Volante fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 01:05
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