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Awesome, thanks for the info!
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Feb 17, 2013 15:49
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Speaking of really worn down coins, is there an accepted way of getting the detail off of worn coins? Like stereoscopic microscope, laser scan, to identify details?
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Feb 17, 2013 19:22
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Here's the coin I was talking about before. Again, I don't think it's worth anything. Appears to be made of tin or aluminum,very light, but sounds like metal. From the details almost appears to be just some kind of "learn about the presidents" for coin enthusiasts.  
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Feb 17, 2013 20:03
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Uncle Jam posted:Speaking of really worn down coins, is there an accepted way of getting the detail off of worn coins? Like stereoscopic microscope, laser scan, to identify details? If a coin is in that bad of condition, even knowing the details isn't going to make it worth much. For my own coins I just try pencil rubbings, or using a flashlight at different angles to try to highlight details I wouldn't otherwise see. I've heard of people using acid to bring out dates on buffalo nickels, but that's only because dateless buffalos are basically worthless so even a cleaned nickel is worth more than it was before.
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Feb 17, 2013 21:20
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I have a few old coins: 1911 silver dime "D" marked 1941 & 1942 dimes marked with what looks like a "W" 1942 & 1943 nickels marked with "P" 1942 & 1943 steel pennies. 1943 one marked with "D" and the 1942 one marked with "S" Most are in decent condition
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Feb 17, 2013 22:08
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CzarChasm posted:Here's the coin I was talking about before. That wasn't issued by the U.S. Mint but I just did some internet research and it appears to be a commemorative token struck sometime in the 2nd half of the 20th century. A variety of companies made these coins in brass, aluminum, and other cheap alloys and many of the tokens had similar designs (see here and here). Looks like it's maybe worth a couple dollars. Uncle Jam posted:Speaking of really worn down coins, is there an accepted way of getting the detail off of worn coins? Like stereoscopic microscope, laser scan, to identify details? Like pairofdimes said, if it's worn down to the extent that it's unreadable it's probably not going to be worth much unless it happens to be an extremely rare coin. Scanning it might bring out so more detail. If it's a particular coin, you could post a picture here and I can take a stab at identifying it. Big Centipede posted:I have a few old coins: Barber dime (1892-1916)  1911-D for Denver Mint, $5-10 decent circulated condition 1941 and 1942 Mercury dimes, the W is actually the designer's monogram (A over W for Adolph Weinman). $2/ea Jefferson war nickels (1942-45)  Nickel was another valuable metal during the war, so the Mint changed the composition of the nickel from 75/25 copper-nickel to 56/35/9 copper-silver-manganese. War nickels had a large mintmark placed above Monticello to distinguish them. Because of the silver tarnishing, circulated war nickels will tend to have a darker patina. The presence of silver also means that uncirculated war nickels can take on beautiful natural toning like the above example. 1942 and 1943-P (Philadelphia) nickels $1-2/ea 1943-D Steel penny: $1 1942-S "Steel" penny: The steel penny was only struck in 1943 so there are a couple of possibilities here. The most likely one is that you have a scam coin--a 1942 copper penny plated with a thin coating of zinc and sold as a rare error coin. The other highly unlikely possibility is that you have an extremely rare pattern coin struck by the Mint to test the design on a steel planchet, worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. Is the coin magnetic? If no, then it's a worthless zinc-plated copper cent. If yes, then...
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Feb 17, 2013 23:58
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They're both 1943 pennies, I'm not sure how I misread it. I checked them both with a magnet and got excited until I noticed my mistake though.
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Feb 18, 2013 00:32
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Promise not to laugh, ok. How about a long list and I can take pics of what you might not be your average coin? I havent touched these in years. Ill start off boring and get more interesting as we go . Penny: 1946 Wheat Nickels: 1943 looks uncirculated 1964 x2 1946 1973 Buffalo Nickels: 10 of varying wear Dimes: 1964 1973 1984 with a mint mark Quarters: 1958 1967 1973 1987 with a mint mark 1972 with a mint mark Kennedy Half Dollar: 1967 1969 with a mint mark 1971 5 total, 2 with a mint mark 1972 3 total all with a mint mark 1973 2 total, 1 with a mint mark 1974 3 total, 1 with a mint mark 1776 2 Bicentennial 1776-1976, 1 with a mint mark 1979 1 total 1980 2 total, both with a mint mark 1983 1 with a mint mark 1994 1 with a mint mark 1996 1 with a mint mark 2001 3 total, all with a mint mark Eisenhower Dollar: 1971 7 total 1972 6 total, 3 with a mint mark 1974 3 total, 1 with a mint mark 1976 6 Bicentennial, 1 with a mint mark 1977 1 with a mint mark 1978 1 with a mint mark Susan B Anthony Dollar: 14 total Sacagawea Dollar: 3 total Walking Liberty Silver Dollar: 1992 1993 - 6 total 1997 Liberty Peace Dollar: 1927 marked grade F, D mint mark Fun international coins: 1977 L100 Italy 1986 Italy 5 1994 1 Swiss Franc 1971 2 pence, 2 total 1989 Elizabeth II, 1 penny 1990 5 pence FYI: I started collecting as a kid and I have no idea why I have some of these. I asked my family to give me any cool coins they got and they did. *I cannot believe Susan B. Anthony and Sacagawea Dollars are even around since they were so hated. I realize most are face value. **I had a Christmas tin full of dollar, ½ dollar, etc. coins that was stolen around 25 yrs ago. Ill start crying now
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Feb 18, 2013 02:31
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Ron Don Volante posted:
You know the war effort is serious business when the best solution is to substitute precious nickel with useless old silver.
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Feb 18, 2013 03:25
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Nannypea posted:Promise not to laugh, ok. Unfortunately, most of those are worth little more than face value. That applies to: 1946 penny, 1964/46/73 nickels, post-1964 dimes, post-64 quarters, post-70 half dollars, Eisenhower dollars unless they have an S mintmark, SBA dollars, Sacagawea dollars. The foreign coins won't have much value either. The rest: 1943 War nickel (35% silver): couple bucks Buffalo nickels: are these missing dates? if yeah, then they're pretty much worthless. if no, value varies. 1964 dime: $2 silver bullion value 1958 quarter: $5 sbv 1967/69 half dollars (40% silver): $4.50/ea sbv I'm assuming the Walking Liberty Silver dollars are American Eagles?  Are they proof or uncirculated? Proof coins are coins with a mirrored surface that were struck on specially polished dies. Uncirculated is just a normal coin without any wear or signs of use. If uncirculated, worth about $35 each at current silver values. If proof, worth a bit more. Here's a comparison. 1927-D Peace Dollar graded F: $35 Ron Don Volante fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Feb 18, 2013 |
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Feb 18, 2013 21:41
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Schitzo posted:You know the war effort is serious business when the best solution is to substitute precious nickel with useless old silver. On a tangent of that, for the Manhattan project, the Army needed massive amounts of copper wire for their electrical equipment. But that copper was needed for ammunition. So the army called the Treasury and borrowed 15 000 tons of silver to use in magnets and wiring, silver being a better conductor.
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Feb 18, 2013 23:25
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Ron Don Volante posted:Unfortunately, most of those are worth little more than face value. Thank you for all the information. The Walking Liberty Silver Dollar is an American Eagle and it's NOT a proof. Better than nothing! I have some more "floating" around somewhere. Hopefully better than these! Do you have any information about the 1972 Eisenhower Dollar with the Type 1,2,3 issues? Are there any price difference in the Type 1 & 3?
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Feb 19, 2013 03:38
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Ok, found more coins! Buffalo Head Nickels with dates! 1926 or 1928 1937 1935 1972 Eisenhower Dollar but it's gold plated??? Thoughts on these beauties? 
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Mar 4, 2013 22:08
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I have this Morgan dollar: I thought I had some other coins, but I can't find them now. Thanks for making this thread.
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Mar 5, 2013 03:34
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Nannypea posted:Thank you for all the information. The Walking Liberty Silver Dollar is an American Eagle and it's NOT a proof. Better than nothing! I have some more "floating" around somewhere. Hopefully better than these! I don't know too much about the different 1972 types, but you might find this guide on identifying them helpful. A jeweler's loupe or a strong magnifying glass should be enough to identify them. Type 3 appears to be slightly more valuable than Type 1. Buffalo Nickels VG-F: $1 ea. Check the buffalo on the 1937. If it only has 3 legs, it's a rare variety worth much more. I'm not sure if that's gold on the Eisenhower but even if it is, gold-plated coins are generally worthless. The amount of metal that goes into plating a coin is miniscule. Soup in a Bag posted:I have this Morgan dollar: 1921-P Morgan dollar VF (Very Fine, 30/70 condition): $30
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Mar 5, 2013 07:37
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Perhaps you could answer a trivia question -- from what I understand, the law requires "In God We Trust" on the coins as well as the coin's value. Why, then, does it just say "one dime" instead of something like 10 cents?
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Mar 5, 2013 08:54
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Dime has an official definition as 1/10th of a dollar, and is analogous to cent - 1/100th of a dollar.
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Mar 5, 2013 18:00
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What is the value of an 1863 seated half-dime no mint mark in fine-extremely fine condition?
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Mar 7, 2013 02:59
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I have these things: Sealed plastic boxes with displayed mint coin sets in them. I have them from I believe 1985 to 2000 or 2005ish, they're across the state and I can't check specifically. Would they be worth much more than a couple bucks each? Edit: Are there any relatively common coins to find in normal circulation that are worth watching for and pulling out?
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Mar 7, 2013 06:23
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ShadowHawk posted:Perhaps you could answer a trivia question -- from what I understand, the law requires "In God We Trust" on the coins as well as the coin's value. I'm not sure if I understand your question, but "dime" (or to be precise, "disme", derived from French?) was established as the term for 1/10th of a dollar back in 1792. So "dime" can be used interchangeably with "10 cents". The dime was originally bigger than the half-dime when both were made out of silver, so the sizes of the coins corresponded to their relative values. But in the mid 19th century the composition of the half-dime was changed to nickel, and the new five-cent coin was bigger than the dime. One of my grade school friends used to brag about how he tricked his neighbor into trading him dimes for nickels after he convinced him the bigger coin was worth more. pasaluki posted:What is the value of an 1863 seated half-dime no mint mark in fine-extremely fine condition? That's fairly valuable coin with a very low mintage (18,000), but fine-extremely fine is a very wide range. On a 70 point grading scale, that's a range of 12-45. Assuming its condition is somewhere in between, it's worth at least $200. Nighthand posted:I have these things: Those proof sets are probably worth about $5-10 each, assuming they're all in that same format. There are different types of the more recent proof sets that are more valuable (silver proof sets, "premier" proof sets, etc). They would be clearly labeled though. As for coins to look out for in circulation, keep an eye out for any pre-1965 quarters and dimes as they're silver and worth a fair bit more. If you do happen to stumble across a half dollar, check if it's pre-1971. Outside of that, there isn't much of worth to be still found in general circulation. Collectors have been cherrypicking coins and raiding bank vaults for decades so the chances of finding something valuable are low. But it's still cool to find something like a wheat penny every once in a while--even if it's not worth much, it still has collectible appeal. Ron Don Volante fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Mar 8, 2013 |
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Mar 8, 2013 01:09
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I've got a 1/10 oz fine gold five dollar coin. It's got lady liberty on the front and a flying and nesting eagle on the back. I can't make out the date, but it's in roman numerals and it looks like an IX on the end, so I'm guessing its' 1989. It's in a plastic case with styrofoam around the coin. It looks like maybe 200 bucks based on Ebay. Does that sound about right?
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Mar 8, 2013 02:51
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Yep, that's a 1/10th ounce American Eagle. $200 is about right.
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Mar 10, 2013 00:16
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  Here's something pretty  Meiji 9 (1876) 1 Sen coin with square scales. And just for kicks:   Old Chinese coins. All of it's Qianlong, with the exception of the bottom-center which is Jia Qing. All of em minted in Beijing by Board of Revenue, apart from the top left (in reverse markings photo) which is Beijing Board of Public Works. Ran across this stash a few years back, which gramps got when an uncle of his passed. Turns out, this rear end in a top hat ancestor in his early years ran off to Japan and China. Beating me by well over 100 years. And what the hell,   Fucker beat me to that as well  So much for being the first in the family to do anything
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Mar 10, 2013 01:34
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Thanks for the thread; I've always loved old coins. Unfortunately liking something is not the same as owning them & I've only got one possibly worth more than sentimental value. 1893 Barber quarter- S (I think?) I took terrible pictures so you can't see the S as more than a small smudge. With a magnifying glass it looks like an S to me (right below the eagle's tail feathers and slightly to the right)   Not the best condition I know but it's at least mostly legible. Thanks again
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Mar 10, 2013 23:18
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Pro-PRC Laowai posted:
Nice coins! You already know more than I do about what they are, but if you're looking for more info you might check out a Krause book of world coins. Japanese (and Chinese) coins are great because they're relatively cheap to buy and have some beautiful designs. Unfortunately, part of the reason they're so cheap is that the market is saturated with counterfeits. Buyer beware. Quinoa posted:Thanks for the thread; I've always loved old coins. Unfortunately liking something is not the same as owning them & I've only got one possibly worth more than sentimental value. Yep, that's probably an 1893-S Barber quarter. The only other possible mintmark would be an "O". Looks about VG-8 (Very Good) condition with some dirt/smudges, probably worth $15-20. It's a fairly low mintage date and would normally secure a higher price, but the coin market's been depressed since the recession. Definitely worth holding on to.
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Mar 12, 2013 03:22
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I've got a drawer full of old coins, many of types which have already been posted in this thread, but I've got a few more I'd like to ask about. Sorry about the crappy quality. I'm using a phone and my room isn't that well lit at night.  Morgan Dollar, like the one posted just above, but from 1878.   Bicentennial Dollar. I like this one because it has the moon on the back   A variety of different US coins. I think they've all been covered in this thread already, but the Silver Dollar (1987) is a lot shinier than a normal coin. Maybe a proof strike? I've got 5 of them, and they came in their own wooden container, so maybe the ancestor who bequeathed me these coins thought they were special somehow.  Pre-1964 Dimes. I've got a whole lot these. Just silver melt value, I guess. And a few non-US curiosities:  1942 French Tunisia (?) dime.    Roman coin. Crisis of the Third Century - era. I've got a bunch more, both American and from around the world. I'll keep looking through them and see if I've got any more worth posting about. EDIT:Link to gallery of more pictures of Roman Coin [b]http://imgur.com/a/KtUGv ..And some close-up, high-contrast photos. Maybe they'll make the inscriptions more readable http://imgur.com/a/7LNOX SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Mar 15, 2013 |
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Mar 12, 2013 03:52
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1878 Morgan dollar VF-20 (very fine) condition--assuming no mintmark (check beneath the wreath and above "DO" in "DOLLAR"): $35 1976 Eisenhower dollar: Looks like it might be a proof coin--does it have mirrored surfaces? Is the mintmark S or D? There are many possibilities here. $2-15 1950-P? Washington quarter VF-XF: $7 1943-P Walking Liberty half F: $12 1963 Franklin half VF: $10 Silver dimes--melt value Silver American Eagles--If they have mirrored surfaces, they're proofs. Otherwise, they're just normal uncirculated. If they're proof, value will vary a lot by the date. If uncirculated, they'll most likely be worth around $35 ea (bullion value + small Am Eagle premium). You should post that Roman coin in Xenopus' SA thread. He knows a ton about ancient coins and will probably be able to give you some info on it. That coin's extremely well-struck if its genuine.
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Mar 14, 2013 06:29
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The Roman coin you have there is, like you say, from the 3rd century AD. It's a coin made of billon (silver-bronze alloy) called an antoninianus or double denarius. The front shows the Empress Salonina, the wife of Emperor Gallienus, who reigned 253-268 AD. She's wearing a diadem and a robe, and what looks like pointy shoulder pads is actually just a decorative arc to border the bust's lower edge. The inscription around the bust is CORN SALONINA AVG = "Cornelia Salonina Augusta". The back shows Empress Salonina on the left shaking hands with her husband, Emperor Gallienus, on the right, with the inscription CONCORDIA AVGG = "The Agreement of the Emperors". The double G at the end of AVGG indicates a plural of the word for Emperor/Empress. As far as these things go, it's not a rare coin, but that one looks to be in good condition, with shiny, non-porous surfaces. Most specimens are quite gritty. Specifically, this coin's reference is RIC 5A Salonina (joint reign) 63, or Cohen 31. It was struck at Gallienus's Asian mint, the precise location of which we don't know, but it might be Antioch. It was minted 255-258 AD, while Gallienus was co-Emperor with his father Valerian I. Valerian was captured by King Shapur I of Persia in 260 AD, leaving Gallienus to rule alone. The tarnish on it can be removed pretty easily, but that's not something I'd recommend unless you know what you're doing. You'd want to do it non-abrasively, like using the method of boiling it in a pan with baking soda (for reacting, not scrubbing) and aluminum foil, or giving it a brief bath in household ammonia. Antoniniani from the reign of Gallienus and Salonina can be found for as cheap as $5, but this one's good condition and the fact that it has the Imperial couple on it together make it more valuable. For me to grab a specimen just like it, I'd probably have to shell out about $25. Edit: The close-ups show it a bit worse condition than it looked before, so I revised the value down a little. Oh, and there's no reason to suspect it's a fake as far as I can see. Xenopus fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Mar 15, 2013 |
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Mar 15, 2013 04:20
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Xenopus posted:The tarnish on it can be removed pretty easily, but that's not something I'd recommend unless you know what you're doing. You'd want to do it non-abrasively, like using the method of boiling it in a pan with baking soda (for reacting, not scrubbing) and aluminum foil, or giving it a brief bath in household ammonia. I'd never do that, you're removing patina and it's not a pricey coin to begin with. I'd never advise cleaning it. Leave it as is.
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Mar 15, 2013 04:56
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My crazy boss when I was in college used to throw small bags of 1964 silver half dollars at me as bonuses from time to time because he was crazy and ~silver standard~ or some nutty  poo poo. I'm assuming my pile of silver is worth just what ebay is telling me, $10-15 per coin?edit: I just dug them out of the closet to make sure of the date, dang silver coins are light weight. Vanadium Dame fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Mar 15, 2013 |
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Mar 15, 2013 05:38
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Xenopus posted:The Roman coin you have there is, like you say, from the 3rd century AD. It's a coin made of billon (silver-bronze alloy) called an antoninianus or double denarius. The front shows the Empress Salonina, the wife of Emperor Gallienus, who reigned 253-268 AD. She's wearing a diadem and a robe, and what looks like pointy shoulder pads is actually just a decorative arc to border the bust's lower edge. The inscription around the bust is CORN SALONINA AVG = "Cornelia Salonina Augusta". The back shows Empress Salonina on the left shaking hands with her husband, Emperor Gallienus, on the right, with the inscription CONCORDIA AVGG = "The Agreement of the Emperors". The double G at the end of AVGG indicates a plural of the word for Emperor/Empress. ... Very cool, thank you!
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Mar 15, 2013 05:47
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This thread made me dig out a box of coins my grandparents left me. Most of them are random foreign coins, but maybe someone can identify if any of them are worth anything.
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Mar 15, 2013 06:45
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The small red'ish coins with the oak sprigs are German Pfennigs. Basically the cents to the D-marks dollar. They aren't worth anything, except I guess the bronze value (such as it is) of any 2 Pfennig pieces from 1950 to 1968 since the rest are either bronze plated or copper plated steel.
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Mar 15, 2013 10:03
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I got on a coin collecting kick a few weeks ago and have a few questions. How do I get good at grading coins? I have looked at lots of pics online and can sort of group things in 10 point intervals up to AU, but I feel like I need more examples to get better. I feel like I can't buy coins intelligibly until I get better at that. I may post some pics for grading feedback rather than prices. Where is the best place to buy coins? Ebay is convenient, but you can't always see/feel what you are buying. I have gone to some estate sales the past few weeks and bought some coins for 10-20% below price guide values (but it seems like nobody is actually paying for what price guides recommend). Local coin shops seem to be pricey. Has anyone really tried out buying stuff at auction? I just bought like 15 lbs of mixed world coins and am going to be working through those for a while. I figured I'd buy a ton of something not worth a lot. They don't have commodity value, but they're cool. It'll give me a chance to try out different cleaning methods on circulated coins and learn about histories of different countries. I'm bound to find a few worth at least a couple bucks (even though I'd be surprised if I could sell any of those coins if I wanted to).
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Mar 25, 2013 17:09
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Jimmy James posted:Where is the best place to buy coins? Ebay is convenient, but you can't always see/feel what you are buying. I have gone to some estate sales the past few weeks and bought some coins for 10-20% below price guide values (but it seems like nobody is actually paying for what price guides recommend). Local coin shops seem to be pricey. Has anyone really tried out buying stuff at auction? If you can find a coin show that's probably the best way, going to a big show like the Long Beach Coin Show is pretty awesome because there are tons of vendors covering the whole range of coins. Modern, ancient, US, foreign, you can find just about anything. Also since there's so many vendors in one place you can easily comparison shop to see how much things should sell for.
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Mar 26, 2013 03:57
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Jimmy James posted:I got on a coin collecting kick a few weeks ago and have a few questions. How do I get good at grading coins? I have looked at lots of pics online and can sort of group things in 10 point intervals up to AU, but I feel like I need more examples to get better. I feel like I can't buy coins intelligibly until I get better at that. I may post some pics for grading feedback rather than prices. Good questions. If you're grading U.S. coins, you should definitely pick up The ANA Grading Standards book if you don't already have it. It's one of the first books a new collector should buy. Has detailed descriptions of each grade and many pictures for every coin, as well as tips on problem areas for certain coins. Ebay is my personal favorite place to buy coins. But unless you're buying low value coins, don't even bid unless there are clear pictures of the obverse and reverse. Search for listings that are going to end soon during non-peak times for a better chance of getting a bargain. Price guide prices tend to be a bit inflated. Many price guides are based on what coin shops/dealers say they're selling their coins for. A non-dealer attempting to sell the same coin could not expect to charge the same price. The coin market's also been somewhat depressed ever since the recession and I'm not sure if the price guides have really adjusted to that either. And like you said, coin shops often tend to be pricey. Many of them double as jewelry-bullion shops, so a good deal of their clientele is non-collectors who have no idea of value. Estate sales are a good idea; I've personally never gone to one. Auctions are great if you're looking for a specific coin and have a fair amount of money to blow. Auction fees can be painful. Like pairofdimes said, coin shows are great. If you can find a decent-sized one nearby, you'll get to see a huge variety of coins. You can search online to see if any are happening near you--sites like this and this have some non-exhaustive lists of upcoming ones. Dealers at coin shows are usually friendly and more than happy to give new collectors advice, tips, and sometimes even freebies. Try to go near the end of the show (or on the last day, if it's a multi-day show) and you might have a better chance of getting a bargain. Bargaining is permitted! Finally, I wouldn't spend too much time practicing cleaning methods. If a coin shows evidence of cleaning (and unless you're an absolute master, it will) its value drops dramatically. You might be able to dump it on ebay with noone the wiser but an experienced coin collector is not going to want to buy a cleaned coin. 99% of the time it's a bad idea to clean, repair, or otherwise modify your coins.
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Mar 27, 2013 08:05
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I have a 1972 gold dollar, Eisenhower on the front, eagle on the back (hes chillin on the moon). No mark for what mint it's from. I'd have to find it to take a good picture but its in pretty good condition. A little worn but everything is clear and distinguishable.
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Mar 27, 2013 23:42
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How old does a US proof set need to be to really start being worth something valuable? I've been collecting coins since I was a kid, but have a ton of those as they were Christmas gifts from my grandma every year. Silver sets and regular sets
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Mar 27, 2013 23:55
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Alfalfa posted:How old does a US proof set need to be to really start being worth something valuable? Age doesn't determine value as much as rarity and condition do. Common silver's worth scrap + premium and not much more. canuckanese posted:I have a 1972 gold dollar, Eisenhower on the front, eagle on the back (hes chillin on the moon). No mark for what mint it's from. I'd have to find it to take a good picture but its in pretty good condition. A little worn but everything is clear and distinguishable. It's gold plating, it's not plated at the mint and if it was actually rare in any way, the gold plating would bring down the value as it is considered damaged. You got a novelty coin that's worth more than $1 only to someone who doesn't know anything about coins. Pro-PRC Laowai fucked around with this message at 11:18 on Mar 28, 2013 |
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Mar 28, 2013 10:58
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Alfalfa posted:How old does a US proof set need to be to really start being worth something valuable? Most normal proof sets from 64 onwards are $5-10. Silver sets and Prestige sets are at least $25. If you give me a date range I can identify the more valuable year sets. Pro-PRC Laowai's right about the Eisenhower dollar.
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Mar 28, 2013 21:24
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