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One of my patients today had to sign a bunch of pre-surgery forms, and I had my Pilot Metro on me. He said "Ooooh." as he signed. 
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Feb 14, 2013 21:15
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Aramek posted:One of my patients today had to sign a bunch of pre-surgery forms, and I had my Pilot Metro on me. I did that with a form once, before realizing that carbon paper doesn't work to well if you use no pressure.
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Feb 14, 2013 21:39
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I just got in my order of a Pilot Metro and some Hero 329s and I'm really enjoying them. My main concern is inks, though. I got the Heroes with the intention of using them at work, but I work in a vet office so any ink has to absolutely be waterproof. I have the Noodler's bulletproof black ink, but was hoping I could get something waterproof in any color. Is my only choice the Noodler Blue-black? I'm not limited in what colors I can use at work, I just have to be able to read my notes after they inevitably get soaked.
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Feb 15, 2013 03:00
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Mercury Hat posted:I just got in my order of a Pilot Metro and some Hero 329s and I'm really enjoying them. My main concern is inks, though. I got the Heroes with the intention of using them at work, but I work in a vet office so any ink has to absolutely be waterproof. I have the Noodler's bulletproof black ink, but was hoping I could get something waterproof in any color. Is my only choice the Noodler Blue-black? I'm not limited in what colors I can use at work, I just have to be able to read my notes after they inevitably get soaked. Quite a few Noodler's inks are bulletproof. (http://noodlersink.com/noodlers-durable-ink-classification/) I like the red-black and the legal blues (Legal Blue, Legal Lapis, &c.), but apparently lots of their colors are waterproof.
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Feb 15, 2013 03:59
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Using fountain pens is going to destroy me, I think. I picked up a Pilot Metropolitan, which was an easy sell given what I read here and elsewhere. But I needed ink. I was looking for a green ink for grading a s quiz for the class I teach at the local technical college. Holy poo poo, I spent three hours researching a $12 purchase, looking for an ink that would hold up despite the lovely copy paper we have at the college. I'll know next Monday whether I made the right choice. I will also say this -- there is no reason to buy off of Amazon if you can buy from Goulet Pens or isellpens.com. I've bought from both of the independent stores and have been impressed at the service and the care that they put into packaging the orders. It's easy to buy from small business owners when they are as great as the ones that the pen community have.
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Feb 15, 2013 04:54
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There's a spreadsheet a page or two back listing all the noodler inks and their various anti-water anti-illuminati qualities, I'm sure more than the black and blue-black are waterproof.
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Feb 15, 2013 06:35
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Here's Goulet's table of Noodler's Ink Properties, and here's their selection of inks listed as Bulletproof in pretty much every color. One of those is even an invisible ink that only shows up under black lights. Not quite sure if that's awesome or just  but given Noodler's history probably the latter in some fashion.
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Feb 15, 2013 07:27
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Oh sweet, thanks a bunch guys  . There's quite a few nice ones here to choose from. Also seconding the love for isellpens, I did my first order with them and got my stuff in three days. Everything was packaged up tight and the invoice even had a handwritten "thanks for ordering" note.
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Feb 15, 2013 12:39
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So I've really been wondering something about converting pens to eyedroppers. I keep hearing that you can't convert pens that are metal because there is a chemical reaction that happens with the ink and everything goes to poo poo. But I keep reading different things, and I don't know which is correct. 1. No ink in metal pens at all. 2. No ink in pens that have more than one type of metal. What about pens made from a non-reactive metal, say anodized aluminum? What if the ink itself is of a neutral pH? If there is a reaction, are we talking about something that happens over days/weeks/months/years or what? Really what I'm trying to say is that the Pilot Metro would be a loving amazing eyedropper but I'm wondering what the risk is. Any clue as to the component make up of the pen? If you pull out the converter, it's just plastic and anodized aluminum, right? EDIT: I mean come on, the nib is metal after all... Solkanar512 fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Feb 15, 2013 |
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Feb 15, 2013 17:45
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Generally, I've heard that if you can seal a pen adequately you can turn most of them into eyedroppers, the problem comes with sealing. It would depend on the pH and ingredients of the ink whether they would react with the metal bodies of the pens at all. I'd assume that being pretty non-reactive that anodised aluminium would be fine, but if you damage that coating on the inside of the pen somehow you'd put yourself at risk of ruining it. Also, if the ink has an ingredient that may attack the coating then you wouldn't want to use that. There are some pens that have plastic sleeves in the metal barrels which would be better for eyedropper conversions if you could seal them. As for metal barrels without a sleeve, I'd coat the inside with something like silicone grease which isn't dissolved by ink and would keep it off the metal parts completely. I can't imagine that having a mix of metals would make much difference. Sure you are open to the risk of galvanic corrosion but I think the odds of it happening in a pen are extremely slim. I don't think that many people have tested turning many pens into eyedroppers so I can't imagine that you'd find much info on it. If you're really set on converting the metro I'd say it's cheap enough to possibly sacrifice if it doesn't work out.
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Feb 15, 2013 18:58
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What's your favorite low-feathering ink? My signing pen is a big fat stub nib that uses lots of smeary ink, and my working/purse pen is a ringtop Waterman 52 1/2V. Both of them get used to write on a lot of papers that were designed for ballpoints. I need an ink that dries the second it's put on the paper, without, of course, drying in the nib. Does this miracle fluid exist? I've already tried Private Reserve Fast Dry with no joy.
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Feb 15, 2013 19:12
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Solkanar512 posted:So I've really been wondering something about converting pens to eyedroppers. I'm fairly certain at least the second one may be an issue since it has to do with galvanic corrosion. I don't know what kind of stuff goes into inks, but if there are any electrolytes, galvanic corrosion could become an issue. I'd have to look up some of the electrochemical potentials to really give an answer of how big of a deal it is.
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Feb 15, 2013 19:19
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You might post in the Fountain Pen Network, there are definitely people who are interested in converting to eyedropper so you might receive more info.
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Feb 15, 2013 20:08
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jomiel posted:You might post in the Fountain Pen Network, there are definitely people who are interested in converting to eyedropper so you might receive more info. I have, and I'll post what I find out here. Thanks for the input so far!
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Feb 15, 2013 20:33
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Arsenic Lupin posted:What's your favorite low-feathering ink? My signing pen is a big fat stub nib that uses lots of smeary ink, and my working/purse pen is a ringtop Waterman 52 1/2V. Both of them get used to write on a lot of papers that were designed for ballpoints. I need an ink that dries the second it's put on the paper, without, of course, drying in the nib. Does this miracle fluid exist? I've already tried Private Reserve Fast Dry with no joy. The fastest drying ink I have is Waterman Florida Blue, now called Serenity Blue. It's really well regarded as one of the best behaved inks out there.
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Feb 15, 2013 20:36
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Arsenic Lupin posted:What's your favorite low-feathering ink? My signing pen is a big fat stub nib that uses lots of smeary ink, and my working/purse pen is a ringtop Waterman 52 1/2V. Both of them get used to write on a lot of papers that were designed for ballpoints. I need an ink that dries the second it's put on the paper, without, of course, drying in the nib. Does this miracle fluid exist? I've already tried Private Reserve Fast Dry with no joy. If you haven't, I'd try some J. Herbin inks. In addition to being lovely (and very much not water-proof), they dry pretty drat fast for me. However, I don't have any particularly wide nibs, so they might not be quite so useful. Then again, if by "papers designed for ballpoints" you mean thermal papers, like the ones typically used for receipts, I think you might just be flat out of luck. But if you mean cheap copy paper or cheap notepads, I'd definitely try J. Herbin's stuff — it dries way faster for me than anything else I've tried.
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Feb 15, 2013 20:43
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Ironically, I was about to upload this: The J. Herbin is the one that's drying too slow for the fat-nibbed pen. The papers I'm thinking of are checks and an off-the-shelf purse calendar. This demo page is on (gulp) ink-jet paper.
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Feb 15, 2013 21:01
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I decided to go with Legal Lapis from Noodler's, but the only website that carries it is on the fountain pen expo circuit until February 25  . Who knew there was such a thing!It's so pretty, it's worth the wait, and it's bulletproof as well. I'll just stick to the black in the meantime. Thanks for all the help and suggestions .
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Feb 15, 2013 21:28
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kirtar posted:I'm fairly certain at least the second one may be an issue since it has to do with galvanic corrosion. I don't know what kind of stuff goes into inks, but if there are any electrolytes, galvanic corrosion could become an issue. I'd have to look up some of the electrochemical potentials to really give an answer of how big of a deal it is. Yeah, galvanic corrosion is certainly an issue, so I'll have to do some research on the materials used in the pen. However, I can't imagine that by itself anodized aluminum is terribly prone to corrosion. If it were, wouldn't you see the results from heavy use on the outside of the barrel? As an aside, if there is a galvanic reaction, I should be able to fill the pen with salt water, hook electrodes to the two differing metal parts and be able to measure a non-zero electrical charge. EDIT: I'm a big dummy for posting from work. I forgot about the second metal piece at the top where the nib/feed is. Solkanar512 fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Feb 16, 2013 |
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Feb 15, 2013 22:18
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So I got my Pilot Metro and got it with the ink cartridge that came with it since I don't have a bottle of ink. What's recommended if I just want a standard black ink? Also, I've realized my pen-holding ability is not right for a fountain pen, it's more for a ballpoint. What are some good practices to not only hold a fountain pen better, but to improve handwriting in general? I've just been practicing over and over on the new Rhodia pads I got.
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Feb 16, 2013 01:43
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My standard black is Noodler's Heart of Darkness. I just love how dark it is and being bulletproof is a huge bonus for me. As for writing better, I just practiced a lot. I had to first train myself to use as little pressure as possible, then found a way to hold my fingers to keep the pen steady, and now I'm working on getting my arm and shoulder into it instead of just writing with my wrist.
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Feb 16, 2013 02:05
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It has arrived! I'm not loving the blue but the pen writes so drat well. It has the same scratchy feel as my Pilot G2 0.38mm that I love. I'm very happy with my EF nib size choice.
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Feb 16, 2013 02:27
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Why are all the <$30 pens so ugly? Bulky, inelegant plastic bodies everywhere. Is something at least as nice looking as a $3 ballpoint really asking so much? Hell, even the Pilot Varsity I've been using is nicer looking than some of the pens I've seen today.
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Feb 17, 2013 00:48
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GabrielAisling posted:Why are all the <$30 pens so ugly? Bulky, inelegant plastic bodies everywhere. Is something at least as nice looking as a $3 ballpoint really asking so much? Hell, even the Pilot Varsity I've been using is nicer looking than some of the pens I've seen today. What models of pens were you looking at? If you can say which ones you found ugly we might be able to point you in another direction for nice pens
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Feb 17, 2013 00:53
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Also, it is question of personal tastes. I love everything about the old Parker pens, so the Hero pens are right up my alley and dirt cheap.
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Feb 17, 2013 01:00
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GabrielAisling posted:Why are all the <$30 pens so ugly? Bulky, inelegant plastic bodies everywhere. Is something at least as nice looking as a $3 ballpoint really asking so much? Hell, even the Pilot Varsity I've been using is nicer looking than some of the pens I've seen today.  Pilot Metropolitan. All-metal body, sleek design, professional colour schemes, $15.  Lamy Logo. All-metal body, swappable nibs, also comes in brushed metal, $30-40. If these are bulky and inelegant to you, we're going to need a better idea of what you didn't like and why in order to help you.
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Feb 17, 2013 01:15
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GabrielAisling posted:Why are all the <$30 pens so ugly? Bulky, inelegant plastic bodies everywhere. Is something at least as nice looking as a $3 ballpoint really asking so much? Hell, even the Pilot Varsity I've been using is nicer looking than some of the pens I've seen today. Personally I like the plastic body of the Safari. It's very clean and simple to me. It's also got a good weight to it. I hate writing with pens that are bulky and very heavy that are made with either dense metal or thick gross colored plastic.
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Feb 17, 2013 01:51
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I have succumbed to the Curse of the Internet. Today I dropped my ringtop Waterman 52 1/2V on the floor, stepped on it, and broke the cap into two neat halves. Anybody know Internet repair people who might be able to sell me a replacement cap, or would it be cheaper just to find a new 52 1/2 v ringtop? The original pen was fairly oxidized, so it's not collectible or anything. Rest assured, if I do get a new one I'll send the old one to somebody's parts bin.
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Feb 17, 2013 03:40
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The Sailor Hi Ace Neo is pretty slim and classic looking too. I picked one up in Japan for about $8 USD. Even from an importer they are under $20. You get that nice Sailor nib and a EF line if you are into that.
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Feb 17, 2013 04:04
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I got a fountain pen as a stocking stuffer over christmas and like using it as a desk pen at home. But the real question is, where do I learn to do cool handwriting because mine is still extraordinarily mediocre but feels fancier.
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Feb 18, 2013 07:46
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So I'm going away from my office for 6 weeks to work on a **secret project**. I've got the right ink, but what is the best way to transport it? Put the original bottle in a zip-lock bag in checked luggage? Surely there's a better way. I realize invisible ink is better for secret projects. I want to be able to read my own writing. Shut up.
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Feb 18, 2013 11:52
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Captain Postal posted:So I'm going away from my office for 6 weeks to work on a **secret project**. I've got the right ink, but what is the best way to transport it? Put the original bottle in a zip-lock bag in checked luggage? Surely there's a better way. I've heard people use a small Nalgene bottle as apparently they're pretty hard wearing, and put that in a ziplock in checked luggage. Are the Noodlers bottles glass? If so I wouldn't want to risk it in checked luggage and possibly having broken glass poke a hole in the ziplock you put it in.
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Feb 18, 2013 12:24
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noodlers bottles are glass, but they're very heavy glass. I hadn't even thought about breakage, I was just trying to avoid carrying extra stuff. Now I'm 
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Feb 19, 2013 09:42
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Don't worry about the glass, worry about the plastic cover. I had a Noodler's bottle in some luggage once that was lucky to have been in a ziploc bag, because the plastic cover got a crack and ink leaked out everywhere.
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Feb 19, 2013 09:56
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[My old one sure never did this, with the same ink (Waterman Green)] edit: emailed Lamy USA. Hope that I ebay'd this from Indonesia won't be an issue. teethgrinder fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Feb 19, 2013 |
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Feb 19, 2013 17:16
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If someone wanted to learn how to really slow down and learn how to write more carefully (in terms of how neat and expressive their handwriting is), what would be the least forgiving nib with the most potential? Basically not so much a beginner's pen as a pen with a learning curve that would really pay off when you get the hang of it is what I'm looking for. It seems like the majority of nuance would come from the nib but I'm not sure on that at this point.
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Feb 21, 2013 21:42
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Beezle Bug posted:If someone wanted to learn how to really slow down and learn how to write more carefully (in terms of how neat and expressive their handwriting is), what would be the least forgiving nib with the most potential? Basically not so much a beginner's pen as a pen with a learning curve that would really pay off when you get the hang of it is what I'm looking for. It seems like the majority of nuance would come from the nib but I'm not sure on that at this point. An italic gives a nice line variation. They're not particularly hard to use but they can give great looking handwriting with little effort. Lamy and TWSBI do some great italic nibs. For the most lavish and extravagant writing possible you'll want a full flex "wet noodle" nib. This is the kind of nib that would give the stereotypical 1700s ultra fancy cursive. And for those who aren't careful will make your writing look terrible  You'd definitely want to go vintage if you wanted a full flex as most pen makers dont produce them anymore. The Noodlers Ahab flex is kind of flexy, but I wouldn't call it a wet noodle. Some vintage Watermans seem to be the most commonly used pens with flexy nibs, but I couldn't give you a model name off the top of my head.
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Feb 21, 2013 21:47
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I finally broke out my sample of Noodler's Antietam. I...am probably gonna have to buy a bottle of this.  edit: I like to dillute my samples after testing them out full strength to make them go a little farther. I've been using this ink dilluted pretty heavily on a yellow notepad and the result is this gorgeous dark peach color. I may regret it when I have to go back and read these notes, but for now I'm having a lot of fun writing a bunch of boring work stuff. Everything Burrito fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Feb 23, 2013 |
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Feb 22, 2013 05:06
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My pens got here today! No pictures yet because imgur hates me and my phone. But here's the haul. - Lamy Joy Calligraphy, 1.1 steel nib - Hero 5028 Calligraphy Set in purple - Guanleming Calligraphy Pen (it was $5 and if I don't like it, will be given to a professor I dislike.) - Hero 329 older version in green - That free pen that comes with Noodler's inks. - Noodler's Heart of Darkness I've inked up the Lamy, the Hero calligraphy and the noodler's pens. The other two will get inked eventually, but I've only got the one color right now, so I'm gonna hold out for more colors. Upon inspection in person, the Lamy is really solid feeling. It is also ugly as sin. It reminds me of THE FUTURE as imagined by the 1970s. It does write very nicely, though. The line is nice and smooth and easy. Unfortunately, there isn't much variation of line thickness, so my writing with it doesn't look much different from my writing with an ordinary nib. I love the Hero set. Three nibs and a schmancy looking pen body for $15. It's a bit scratchier than the Lamy, but also lays down a much more clearly italic line. It's light weight and pretty and professional looking and purple. I'll put up with a lot for purple.
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Feb 22, 2013 05:09
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If a pen's nib is "normal when not flexed," what does that mean exactly?
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Feb 22, 2013 06:40
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