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I'm considering a Mamiya RB67. How does this sound? Mamiya RB67 Pro-S with waistlevel Mamiya 120 Pro-S back Mamiya 50mm f4.5C Anything else I'd need (aside from neck and back surgery)?
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May 30, 2014 15:16
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Ugh, after looking at all this medium format stuff on the internet, now I'm really not sure what I want to buy. Things I would like: - A wide angle lens. Say, 24mm equivalent. I like wides. - A rangefinder. Mostly because I haven't owned a rangefinder, and it would be neat. - Metering. Mostly because I don't know what the hell I'm doing without it.
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May 31, 2014 16:49
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Tell me how bad of an idea this is: Pentax 6x7 Pentax 55mm f4 SMC Inoperative meter TTL prism - What's really new about the 6x7 vs the 67? Is it worth the extra money to get a 67 over a 6x7? - I'm assuming that if I get a TTL prism, but the metering is broken, I can still use it, just without metering. - Anything else I'm forgetting? Aside from major neck and spine surgery, a beefy strap, and some 120 or 220 film
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Jun 9, 2014 02:10
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Large Hadron posted:Yeah. Also, a 55mm lens on 6x7 is really wide, equivalent to ~25mm on 35mm film. You might not find it very versatile, so you might want to consider a different lens. Yup, one of the reasons, I like wides. I have a 14mm on my aps-c dslr (equivalent to about 21mm), and it's great. Maybe I'll pick something else up, just not now. Ezekiel_980 posted:Don't forget dat grip, its the only reason to get the camera. I'm thinking of using my blackrapid. Or would that be too weak for the massive mannliness that this camera is? Im That One Guy posted:Just gonna do a little shameless plug. I'm currently selling my P6x7 kit in the photo gear buy thread for $425 shipped. Sent you a PM Edit: you don't have PMs, just posted in the thread instead
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Jun 9, 2014 07:52
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 I just bought a 6x7 body, working metered prism, grip, and an untested toshiba flash. Thanks a lot.
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Jul 1, 2014 06:33
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Pictures from the guy who is sending it to me   Awww yessssss.
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Jul 5, 2014 08:14
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alkanphel posted:
Where in HK is Aberdeen Street?
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Jul 10, 2014 04:23
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I didn't realize how loving huge this pentax 6x7 is holy poo poo Doesn't help that I also got this massive toshiba flash and the mounting bracket for it.
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Jul 12, 2014 05:39
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:
This is amazing.
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Jul 22, 2014 02:31
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I bought a 6x7 and I'm already bored of digital. Not recommended if you want to have any money left.
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Aug 12, 2014 19:23
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Also pick up a gf670 and a 67 and an rz67
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Aug 12, 2014 23:07
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Testing out my awful ghetto film-to-digital rig I scouted this out a long time ago but when I finally went to take pictures of it, someone decided to put a big dumpster in front and jackson agencies put their sign over the door 
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Aug 13, 2014 07:59
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Camera has gained more character.
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Aug 19, 2014 01:49
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fujifilm is discontinuing the gf670.
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Aug 25, 2014 23:24
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Was having some minor issues earlier, was hoping someone could help me figure out why. Pentax 6x7 TTL prism 55mm SMC No problem with the battery Back set to 120, screw set to 120. Before this: Was shooting some Ilford Delta 400, pretty sure I shot more than 10 exposures, but it kept winding like I hadn't; winding pressure was the same as 1-10 exposures, not like after 10 exposures when you can just keep winding without cocking the shutter. After what seems like definitely more than 10 exposures, winding pressure was the same as after 10 exposures when you're just winding the paper. No problems there afterwards. Today: Loaded up a roll of Ektar 100. Shot a bunch, probably more than 10, but the film counter was still on 7. Shot a bunch more, absolutely more than 10 more, just to get it to the end of the roll. Shutter is definitely firing, winding is cocking it, and there is the usual amount of pressure. Still wouldn't advance the film counter. Ended up making a ghetto dark bag out of some garbage bags and a sweater, opened up the back and then wound all the film in. What I'm wondering is, why would this happen, how can I prevent this from happening again, and whether anyone has encountered this before. Edit 1: I just noticed, the roller on the right side (film counter side), it only turns counterclockwise about 3/4 of a turn before it stops. It will turn clockwise as much as I want though. The roller on the left side (shutter speed dial side) will turn in both directions no problems. These:  Edit 2: It seems like the shutter really isn't firing off as often as I thought. So far I've had 4 processed rolls (40 exposures), and a total of 5 unexposed (totally blank) and 1 partially exposed (that may have been me accidentally exposing it when taking it out).
Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Aug 28, 2014 |
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Aug 28, 2014 03:29
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Anyone good who does this? Preferably in Canada Also it seems like the shutter isn't 100%; it's not fired several times when it should have, it looks like.
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Aug 28, 2014 08:43
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Ezekiel_980 posted:I think your first part is normal since the film is just pulled by the right roller. Regarding the shutter it might be the highest shutter speed. I had a similar problem where a lot of frames were blank, I jotted down my shutter speeds for a roll one day and found that 1/1000 and 1/500 had failed, trip to the local shop confirmed it, still waiting to hear if he can fix mine. Even though the film is just pulled by the right side winding lever, shouldn't the right side roller roll freely to let the film roll smoothly? Right now the film would basically drag on that roller. The shutter speed idea, that might be it. I bought the camera with the flash, and knowing that the flash sync is 1/30, and the shots that I missed may have used 1/15 or 1/30 shutter speed, I popped off the shutter speed dial and checked out the contacts. Not horrible, but not shiny. Polished them up with a sharpened popsicle stick, will see how the test roll goes. How did the local store confirm it?
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Aug 29, 2014 00:29
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Okay something definitely is up. I think that roller is the real reason. The camera isn't advancing the film to the next frame even though the lever works so I am guessing the roller is holding the film back and then the gearing inside the advance lever slips. Confirmed that with a roll of ruined film; held the film, then tried to advance to the next frame, and it just slides without doing anything. Kinda like a clutch. Would explain the brass shavings too
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Aug 31, 2014 05:58
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Ezekiel_980 posted:I'm not sure how he verified it, by the point I brought it to the repair guy I had already opened it up a bit and found the contacts clean so I knew it was beyond my repair skills. I have a metered prism and I'd advise that you spend the money instead on the handle and then use the iphone lightmeter app.
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Sep 1, 2014 05:08
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Edit: nvm i'm keeping it.
Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 08:21 on Sep 6, 2014 |
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Sep 2, 2014 05:38
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Yup.
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Sep 5, 2014 20:29
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There isn't much of a cost of entry disadvantage to MF; going with the above setup, you're looking at about $450-500 for the camera, lens, lens board, and a couple filmholders. That's medium format money; you could get a Pentax 6x7, unmetered prism, and a lens for that, or maybe a mamiya rb67, 120 back, waistlevel viewfinder, and a lens. Looking at keh right now, a 6x7 body is $200, a ~50mm equivalent lens is about $175, and a metered-but-meter-is-broken prism is $33, for a total of $408. Then there are also savings from not needing such a beastly tripod, a darkbag to load your film, etc. That's only looking at it from the money point of view of course.
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Nov 15, 2014 00:13
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Large format: my debt is as big as my camera
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Nov 18, 2014 08:16
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Probably the previous owner could only afford to shoot 450 pictures before running out of money and having to sell the camera to continue to eat.
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Dec 11, 2014 02:15
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Not the worst deal, especially with that warranty. I paid less for my 6x7 and now I have to pay more to get it fixed
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Dec 21, 2014 07:49
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try it with a lime posted:How bad are P67's for handheld use as far as camera shake goes? How slow can you reliably shoot the 75mm? Not too bad at all. even I can manage 1/30 on the 55f4
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Jan 1, 2015 05:28
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The obvious answer is a Fuji gf670
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Jan 17, 2015 22:27
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the 6x7 is also relatively portable, you can actually hand-hold it, and the form factor is like a big slr (because that's what it is) so no weird reversed images. They're also pretty cheap, they take 220 film, and you get that wooden handle.
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Apr 12, 2015 04:56
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Do it, screw up a bunch of times, learn from your mistakes, and the bask in 6x6 glory.
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May 18, 2015 03:16
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My local Canadian place works out to about $4 for c41, $7 for b&w, and about $4927484 for slide So yes black and white is worth it.
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May 19, 2015 21:27
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atomicthumbs posted:What batteries do you folks use in your Pentax 67s? I bought one to replace my dead one, but it's mysteriously vanished. Should I be using lithium or silver oxide, or is alkaline fine? I'm using a 4sr44, a++ would recommend, but i also have a metering prism
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Jun 13, 2015 21:00
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The pentax is a lot less than half of a mamiya 7. I paid a about $300 for the body, (working) metered prism, and the handle, from Japan. Another $150 from keh for my 55mm. Looks like the 75mm is about $210. The Mamiya 7 looks to be far more than $1000
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Jul 6, 2015 03:07
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Black and white is dirt cheap. I think I've got about 90 dollars of equipment and chemicals and I have enough to process about 150 rolls.
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Aug 28, 2015 22:24
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The grip is the best thing about the 67. I'm actually thinking of getting another 67 body just so I can use the wood grip on it, since my 6x7 body is broken and it would cost as much as a new body to fix it
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Sep 20, 2015 01:04
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Also the pentax 6x7 withouth the mlu has an issue where the roller that counts the exposures can jam and not let film through. It's a $350 repair. ask me how i know
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Oct 3, 2015 16:14
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elgarbo posted:I love my Mamiya C330 but I'm starting to feel restricted by the square format. What's the best option at 6x7? The Pentax looks pretty hot but is there anything I should know about before dropping cash on a new camera? The pentax is pretty nice, the 1/1000 shutter is great. However it is enormous and heavy. It's not too expensive, and the image quality is nice. There are also lots of lenses available. Should be able to get a body, prism, and 50mm equivalent lens for under $500. Plus, you can get the handle for it. I like the fuji gw670, since I also just bought one. It handles nicely, has it's own quirks, but it's a very simple purely mechanical camera. It's big, but it's also rather light. People talk about how it doesn't feel durable because it's plastic, and while that is true, it also makes it light and nice to handle without gloves in the winter. The only things I don't like about it are that the controls are exactly backwards from my Nikon, and that it only goes up to 1/500 shutter.
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Nov 30, 2015 03:43
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Fuji gw 690 would be a good option, fixed lens and not that expensive to pick up. And pretty light for the size as well.
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Dec 26, 2015 00:50
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voodoorootbeer posted:I dig that the P67 is the Dorkroom Darling but size and weight are my main motivations in ditching the RB67. I almost impulse bought that Fuji 6x7 rangefinder in the buy/sell thread several times but eventually concluded that it wasn't enough of a size difference to justify changing systems. Does the P67 have some advantage over the Bronica that I don't know about? I have a P67 and that fuji. The size difference is a lot more than you might expect, and the pentax is significantly heavier. I can just toss the Fuji into my bag for a day of shooting and it isn't much heavier than bringing my F3 or my dslr rig, but the Pentax is a far larger and heavier system. I like the pentax a lot. I would recommend it to everyone whose body can handle it.    
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Apr 29, 2016 07:33
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No, that's the old Mamiya 6. That one is 1940-1960. There's a newer Mamiya 6 made in 1989-1999, that shoots 6x6, retractable lens (ish), and it's closer to $1200. It's also unrepairable if it breaks.
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Apr 30, 2016 07:35
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:44 |
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Let's be real here, the one true film is Astia.
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May 13, 2016 16:38
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