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ExecuDork posted:2. I really want to read that article! Do you remember any other details? I have some time today set aside for procrastination. Seconding this. Tried searching myself but no luck.
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Nov 2, 2015 17:19
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I'm pretty sure he was going to a gulf state during the Arab spring. Can't remember his name for he life of me
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Nov 2, 2015 17:27
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Could this be it? http://www.theatlantic.com/video/archive/2011/08/getty-photographer-reflects-on-documenting-arab-spring/243932/ It's a video rather than an article, but it might be the same guy talking about the same experience. It doesn't look like camera confiscation is uncommon for this time period/event though, so could be someone completely different.
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Nov 2, 2015 17:42
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McCoy Pauley posted:I think a 35 and a 55-200 are probably good focal lengths to start out with if you're talking about a budget of $200-250 (and for the camera, I think you're right to look at a d7000 over the d5100 -- you'll enjoy have easier access to options and the motor in the body to drive AF in older lenses.). In the price range you're talking about for lenses, a used Nikon 35/1.8 and Nikon 55-200 probably come in around your budget and I think would be good choices. Dren posted:OK cool, so maybe I will do the Nikon 35mm and then a used 18-55mm kit lens for now since I can pick them up cheap. That will give me some time to save for a decent telephoto lens in the future.
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Nov 2, 2015 23:48
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Yeah, a decent one at least, with a big heavy ball head. So there shouldn't be any significant externally-induced vibration. Yeah. The mirror assembly snapping around can be a major source of motion blur if you're shooting at maybe 1/4 seconds to 1/30. Mirror lock up exists for a reason; on sturdy tripods 2s is generally enough while flimsy tripods/stands actually need the 10s lockup.
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Nov 3, 2015 02:02
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I CANNOT EJACULATE WITHOUT SEEING NATIVE AMERICANS BRUTALISED!
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Cranking up the shutter speed to 1/1000 (moving from a dim room to outside morning sun to do my tests) caused everything to sharpen up. Now to figure out how slow I can take it before needing to use mirror lock up or switch to live view. Maybe my mirror lever assembly is getting worn out, because I'm getting shake at speeds faster than 1/30, for sure.
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Nov 5, 2015 01:02
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Speaking of the D7000, I noticed an ad for one in good shape, with 38K shutter count, for $500 CAD. Or roughly $375 US. Just the body and usual accessories. They do have a Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR DX for $300 CAD. But I think I'd be more interested in a 50 mm prime for the time being, or even a cheap 18-55 kit lens. Worth a look at the price? For comparison, I've seen a few D5200 for as low as $400 CAD body only, or $450 with lens. http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1116133081 Then again, for $650 CAD, I can get one with a 50mm F1.8, and a 18-55 VRII f3.5-5.6 GII. Golluk fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Nov 6, 2015 |
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Nov 6, 2015 21:50
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Skip the 18-200 500 cad is a bit high since you can get refurb d7100 for 500usd (650 cad) You want the 35mm f18.g dx, since the d7000 is a crop sensor and so the equivalent fov on the 50 will be approx 75mm
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Nov 6, 2015 22:26
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Hmm, I'm not seeing any D7100 near that price. I see five listed in the GTA at $750-950 CAD, Body only. Any thoughts on what a reasonable offer would be on the D7000 with the 50mm and 18-55mm? Golluk fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Nov 6, 2015 |
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Nov 6, 2015 22:55
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I've always wondered why 50mm on a crop body (and the 65-80mm FL range in general) is kind of the no man's land of photography. Not disputing that 35-50mm equivalent is better for beginners and general documentary use, but I find short telephoto range to be very useful, not only for portraits but also architecture, landscape and environmental/street applications. But I rarely find prime lenses being developed/marketed in that range. I think Pentax had a well-regarded 70mm in the days of film, and Fuji makes some lenses in that range designed specifically for APS sensors, but it's generally a range with less of a market share than normal to wide and longer telephoto lenses. Except for the hordes of people who are putting nifty fifties on their crop body cameras, but, as discussed, those are really made to be true 50's on full frame.
SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Nov 7, 2015 |
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Nov 7, 2015 01:43
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Wild EEPROM posted:Skip the 18-200 Actually, a D7100 (Body only) just got advertised for $550 CAD. Supposed to be in good shape cosmetically, and ~2k shutter count. Should I jump on it? Edit: And the seller pulled the ad after 30 minutes. Seemed he changed his mind on selling it. Golluk fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Nov 7, 2015 |
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Nov 7, 2015 20:19
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Golluk posted:Hmm, I'm not seeing any D7100 near that price. I see five listed in the GTA at $750-950 CAD, Body only.
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Nov 8, 2015 09:07
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I found a D7000 with a 50mm 1.4D and a nice manfrotto tripod with ball head for $700 cad. I ended up selling the body for $550 but it was tough, it was on kijiji for a few weeks.
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Nov 8, 2015 17:37
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I've always wondered why 50mm on a crop body (and the 65-80mm FL range in general) is kind of the no man's land of photography. Not disputing that 35-50mm equivalent is better for beginners and general documentary use, but I find short telephoto range to be very useful, not only for portraits but also architecture, landscape and environmental/street applications. But I rarely find prime lenses being developed/marketed in that range. I think Pentax had a well-regarded 70mm in the days of film, and Fuji makes some lenses in that range designed specifically for APS sensors, but it's generally a range with less of a market share than normal to wide and longer telephoto lenses. Except for the hordes of people who are putting nifty fifties on their crop body cameras, but, as discussed, those are really made to be true 50's on full frame. It's sort of slightly above normal but not so much that many people really want it as a specific focal length. 35-50 is a larger difference in field of view than 50-65, and you can buy 85mm lenses at any quality and price point. Unless you want a highly specific field of view for ~reasons~ (in which case you can still get a 24-70/2.8) there's just no point.
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Nov 9, 2015 01:00
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I think this is the right thread for my question: Are there any really recommended documentaries or anything that kind of explain the entire process of the photographer? Being new to this I'm not sure really how to find interesting subjects, do you just wander around random streets / hills until you find an interesting subject or is there some level of planning involved? I watched Bill Cunningham's documentary which was very interesting but doesn't really address what I'm looking for. And not documentary related but in terms of photographers here, when you go out to take pictures do you have some image of what you want to capture based off of what you've seen before or do you go on the prowl with a camera searching out a subject? Or, I guess would be kind of a mix, do you just carry your camera everywhere anyway?
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Nov 9, 2015 18:21
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It's not a documentary, but I still recommend 'Foundations of Photography' by Ben Long on Lynda.com. It's split into 8 really large chunks covering different aspects, and while it doesn't go into a "heres my day as a photographer" aspect, I do enjoy how it shows you how he approaches a scene, shoots, then reviews the photos and decides what works, what doesn't and how to assess how to improve the composition while in the field. It's all too easy to think the pros roll out of their truck, strap a lens on, take a photo and then go back on their way when that's very much not the case. I'd be interested in more examples as well mind, so hoping someone else has some good suggestions or (even better) YT links. I like it when you see true before and after images so you can see exactly what is done through the lens, and what's in post. It's understandable that a lot of people don't like giving that up though.
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Nov 9, 2015 19:05
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Thanks, I will probably wait until I have 10 days free near christmas so I can binge through it in the trial time, I don't fancy spending too much on learning resources especially when I only get temporary access. I originally accidently asked in the street photography thread and got a reply from bobmarleysghost you might find interesting: bobmarleysghost posted:I've seen the B&H youtube photo series, they're pretty good and cover many different topics:
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Nov 9, 2015 20:01
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Yeah I follow the B&H YT seminar things, they can be a bit hit and miss (a lot of people shilling their services with not much else on top) but I like listening to people talk about their approach and stories from the trade. I enjoyed the Elia Locardi one I watched the other night - I can imagine his style being very divisive around here, as he blends exposures from a fair range of time so you get different scenes in one photo. It's a similar idea in mind to how I shoot - I don't necessarily care about realism, but how I felt when I took the picture and if that means going batshit insane with the colours of the sky, then so be it. It's why I don't post a lot of that kind of stuff here hah.
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Nov 9, 2015 20:10
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Crack posted:Thanks, I will probably wait until I have 10 days free near christmas so I can binge through it in the trial time, I don't fancy spending too much on learning resources especially when I only get temporary access. I was going to post this there to be on topic but maybe this will be more interesting to a wider group. My thoughts: Street photography requires knowledge of portraiture and landscape photography. You should spend a lot of time walking through and shooting your favorite places looking for city scenes and lighting environments at all hours of the day/night. Make friends with other aspiring photographers and go on walks and use eachother as models to grasp lighting basics where you have no studio level control of lighting. And, don't be afraid to ask people you know would make interesting models to go out with you for a afternoon/evening/day in trade for a nice meal or two or beer. Be honest and explain to them you need to work on photography basics and/or build a portfolio. I also always have another camera around if said subject wants to learn at least to where I am (seriously you can spend a whole day explaining ISO/Aperture/Shutter Speed to most people before they get it). Similarly, don't be afraid to ask random but interesting people maybe not in good environments for your photography if you can take their photos in public. Street photography doesn't have to be 100% organic capturing the moment. You can engage your subjects more and maybe convince them to let you occupy 5 or 10 minutes of their lives and relocate them to somewhere with better light or scenery. (Humans of New York is a great example of subject engagement.) Just be sure you are as clean shaven as you get, and well groomed/dressed before asking old ladies to follow you around. You'll also want to take the time to learn how to use an off camera flash, preferably wireless radio based, espeically when shooting people at night. The number of awesome things you can do with a handheld or rested (micro stand, ground, windowsill, whatever) flash in the dark is innumerable. Get used to the idea of spending six hours walking while lugging gear continuously. And to wrap this train of thought: Keep your bag with you 24/7 and when carrying the camera out of the bag you should be verifying the light meter continuously every minute or two or 30m/100ft traveled, or you will miss a shot and hate yourself forever. Even in Aperture Priority mode, you will need to adjust your Aperture from time to time when working in daylight. windex fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Nov 9, 2015 |
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Nov 9, 2015 20:18
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Well at the least you've convinced to me to buy a camera bag and bring my camera everywhere. I'll probably have to wait a bit on some of the other stuff though, I'm still new enough that I'm not comfortable getting the correct ISO/aperture/shutter speed myself yet let alone explaining it to anyone else. I can get "correct" exposures but not what mr bryan peterson woud call "artistic exposures" or at least not ones I'm particularly happy with. My recent camera purchase has left a hole big enough in my bank account that I'm reluctant to get too much more camera gear right away. I want to save up for my first non kit lens (23mm f/1.4) but it costs the same as the camera did so it's going to take a while before I can afford it. Maybe I will get a decent flash (and tripod) in the meantime though as I definately want to get to a level I'm happy with using the kit lens before getting a new one. But yeah I'm going to join a local photography group so I will have models to photo without any akwardness (hopefully), plus most of them will be more experienced than me so they can give me tips too. If I befriend some of them I'm hoping we can go on a nightime stroll and I can borrow their flash / tripod.
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Nov 9, 2015 23:05
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Crack posted:I can get "correct" exposures but not what mr bryan peterson woud call "artistic exposures" If you don't ponder your exposure settings for at least several minutes before taking the photo, it's not an artistic exposure? gently caress Bryan Peterson, whoever that guy is. post-google edit: gently caress "understanding exposure" too lol
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Nov 10, 2015 00:57
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You can develop your aesthetic sense without even touching a camera or thinking about photography. Go to an art museum and look at artwork that's in whatever subject matter you're interested in - landscapes, street scenes, portraiture, whatever. You'll be looking at images where every single aspect of the composition and lighting is a conscious choice by the artist. Now when you pick a camera, you'll have control over some subset of these things. Your job should be simpler, so think about what you liked about those images and go hog wild.
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Nov 10, 2015 01:19
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I agree, don't think too much on trying to shoot street or landscape or whatever photography - just go out and shoot a poo poo-ton of whatever you like, and then when you come back and go through the photos, pick out what you like, then go out again and shoot. Once you've repeated this 1000 times, your own natural style/vision should slowly bubble to the surface.
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Nov 10, 2015 02:18
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The important part about what everyone is saying is: TAKE A SHITLOAD OF PHOTOS, GO. You will figure out the fine details through brute force alone.
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Nov 10, 2015 05:17
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Bubbacub posted:Your job should be simpler, so think about what you liked about those images and go hog wild. Simpler? You've obviously never tried to make it look like 4 dogs are playing a game of poker then, friend.
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Nov 10, 2015 11:28
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Bubbacub posted:You'll be looking at images where every single aspect of the composition and lighting is a conscious choice by the artist. I also want to respond to this to note something else for thread - this is totally true. Photography is usually a secondary hobby to drawing for me, and I use photography as a means of discovery more than as an end to itself. Whenever I get burned out on creating, I spend a few months doing photography, which to me is much more like observation than creation. (Other opinions totally valid, etc.) It's kind of like make vs take in context of photos. Composition is a big deal in either medium, but photography is (IMO) more constrained by finances where drawing or painting is more constrained by time. The end result is wildly subjective in either case. When creativity hits me: Time is way more valuable to me than money, so I tend to take photos and make drawings. Photography without money is a lot of time and labor. And I do -do- that kind of photography once and awhile, and it is closer to making than taking. But it's never easy, and there is no magic guide. These days when cameras record all aspects of decision making in an immortal raw file, there is simply no excuse to not go shoot photos continuously until you work it out for yourself.
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Nov 10, 2015 12:12
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windex posted:
It's way easier to learn this by doing than getting taught.
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Nov 11, 2015 11:46
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:It's way easier to learn this by doing than getting taught. I don't disagree, but its also really the first step and where newbies get hung up all day. I've worked out the entire discussion down to a five minute expaination that works for most people if they have a camera in hand and a light source nearby. The more important bit in that was getting them to go take photos with you.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:20
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Found myself in a best buy the other day, so I spent some time with their selection of cameras. Not sure if it's because it was the first camera I looked at, but I came away with a like for the Sony A5000. I think my biggest complaint with it, was once you accepted a setting change in the menu, it would go right back to the live view. Only added an extra click or two to get back, since it would save where you were in the menu. I suppose if you are only adjusting one setting, it would be handy to jump back to being ready to shoot. Other downsides is no weather/dust sealing, no viewfinder, and the screen only tilts up (can't hold it over your head and aim the screen down). Checked out Nikons D7100, D5200, and D3200. Another quick look at a T5i, and a 70D. However they all seemed rather huge after the mirrorless A5000. Definitely found myself a bit lost with the endless options on the D7100. I've seen the A5000 a few times used in the ~300 CAD range, which is half what I've budgeted for. Any obvious signs you might be buying a stolen camera? There is an A6000 on Kiji for $525 CAD, Body, battery, kit 16-50mm lens, and lens cap. New its $800 at Bestbuy. Seller says "Great condition, Don't have time to use it." Has had 100 views since it was posted on the 10th. Edit: And they just sold it. Right, so now I'm thinking screws buying used. I drove 30 minutes away from home after work to buy one for 560, initially listed at 600. And I have an hour drive home. Seller sends me an email cancelling because someone offered the full 600. Edit 2: Found another one being sold 2 days later, listed at 650, offered 600. Couple months old and mint shape, so I bought it. Golluk fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Nov 17, 2015 |
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Nov 12, 2015 17:33
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Normally I try to pay attention to this thread because I like giving advice to people. Sorry I missed your little adventure, Golluk. How do you like your camera?
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Nov 24, 2015 22:05
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Rakuten is selling grey market D5200s with a kit lens for less than $400. Is this a good deal for an idiot like myself who wants a starter camera?
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Nov 25, 2015 16:07
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bing_commander posted:Rakuten is selling grey market D5200s with a kit lens for less than $400. Is this a good deal for an idiot like myself who wants a starter camera? I wouldn't buy a gray market Nikon in the US. Nikon USA won't service them (even if you pay) & they don't sell parts to 3rd party repair shops anymore. So you're basically hosed if it breaks unless you want to ship it to another country to the distributor it actually belongs to. If you're not in the US this may not apply
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Nov 25, 2015 16:22
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Amazon's Black Friday week deals include a Nikon D3200 with the 18-55mm and 55-200mm VR lenses for $397. http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B016VOV7...rd_p=2290439862 Seems like a pretty decent starter DSLR value to me, $100 cheaper than the normal price for the Non-VR kit, and it's a new non-grey market camera.
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Nov 25, 2015 17:46
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Did notice some nice deals on camera's. But still not enough to make me regret buying used. I saw that Bestbuy.ca has a NIKON Nikkor AF-S DX 35mm f/1.8G Lens on sale for $200.00 CAD (30 dollars off). Somewhat tempting to use that with an adapter on my A6000, though I guess I'd have a more practical use out of a native Sony equivalent. So far I'm pretty happy with the camera. I've just realized again how much there is to taking good pictures. And that I might need to pick up some basic post processing skills. I just did an update to the firmware, and it has more remote controls through my phone now. About the only major thing missing is manual focus. The closest you get, is auto, but you can press on the phone screen where you want it to spot focus. Picked up an external charger and spare battery for 40 bucks off Amazon, as it seems to go through the battery fairly quickly.
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Nov 25, 2015 21:15
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Lots of deals on entry-level stuff, was kind of hoping for some mid-range Nikon discounts at least.
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Nov 26, 2015 10:53
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The Locator posted:Amazon's Black Friday week deals include a Nikon D3200 with the 18-55mm and 55-200mm VR lenses for $397. How are the kit lenses? I want to pick this up for my sister who has a lovely point and click. Should I get another lens as well?
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Nov 27, 2015 09:24
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im gay posted:How are the kit lenses? I want to pick this up for my sister who has a lovely point and click. Should I get another lens as well? The problem with buying people cameras that go beyond point and shoots is that they are a commitment to learning how to work a camera. Auto modes on DSLRs are no better than most point and shoots, even on expensive DSLRs. Sometimes, they are worse. So, if buying any kind of interchangeable lens camera, make sure your recipient wants one, because they do not magically make people better photographers alone. windex fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Nov 27, 2015 |
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Nov 27, 2015 11:45
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What windex said. If you're going to get your sister a DSLR, don't make it a surprise. You can wrap it up and put a bow on it and put it under the tree at midnight on xmas eve. but don't make it a surprise that she's getting an interchangeable-lens camera. That said, if your sister actually wants to upgrade her photography and has already expressed some interest in more capable cameras, then that would be a fine gift. If her P&S is really old, a new one might be a good gift, but if she's actively trying to get into photography as a hobby a new P&S would probably slow her down. Talk to her. A surprise on xmas morning is only good if it's somethng you actually want; a forgettable if expensive gift is just a miniature guilt trip. Kit lenses are pretty good these days. Nobody makes a really bad lens anymore, and price isn't a great indicator of quality because the kit lenses are mass produced in much bigger quantities than other lenses - lots of people never buy another lens for their DSLR - and there are other marketting reasons to cut the profit margin on those lenses to nothing. Those marketting reasons have very little to do with optical quality, and a crappy lens as somebody's first experience with a particular brand is not going to make them into a customer for life. For beginners, a popular second lens is something with a bit of reach; that's why so many DSLRs are sold as 2-lens kits with a medium-tele zoom, something that covers focal lengths from about 50-200mm. The other good options are a normal-wide prime with a huge maximum aperture; there's a 35mm for Nikon that people seem to gush over and it's not expensive. A big wide aperture - a small number after the letter "F" (e.g. f/1.4) - is how you get that enjoyable out-of-focus background, known as "bokeh"* that helps to hide the ugly-rear end furniture your cat is sitting on. pronounced "take more pictures you goddam pixel-peeping pleb and stop obsessing over gear"
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Nov 27, 2015 14:40
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That sounds good, thank you both for the help. She is definitely interested in photography and she has just started reading Understanding Exposure so I think it's something she will continue doing for awhile.
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Nov 27, 2015 23:54
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im gay posted:How are the kit lenses? I want to pick this up for my sister who has a lovely point and click. Should I get another lens as well? I only just replaced my kit lens, because I wanted something that would focus closer, but other than that the 18-55 worked perfectly fine and I had no complaints at all about it. Note that I am not a 'serious photographer', I use it mostly to take pictures of my model ship building, with some secondary use for taking lots of picture that I'll never look at again when I'm on a trip. These were both shot with the kit lens, in vastly different lighting conditions (obviously) on a Nikon D3300:  
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Nov 28, 2015 01:12
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