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johnny sack
Jan 30, 2004

One day, this team will play to their expectations...

Just not this year..


As a homeowner, it seems there's always a plumbing issue that can be tackled. Many of these issues would be a cinch if I knew how to solder 2 copper pipes together. Right now, whenever soldering is involved, I call a professional. I justify it because a plumbing problem due to a bad soldering is going to cost me way more than calling a professional.

However, I'm sick of it. Additionally, I find myself doing jobs that could be done easier if I could just swap out a pipe rather than buy an adapter of whatever sort.

So, how do I go about teaching myself how to solder and have it not cause my house to become flooded?

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Hermaphrodite
Oct 2, 2004

Luckily, I CAN go fuck myself!

I haven't soldered pipe myself, but there's TONS of how-to videos on youtube. Search "how to solder pipe"

meecrob
Jul 3, 2007
I'd scarf down a whole wet bucket full of shit before I ate another plate of meecrob.

The proper term is 'sweating pipe' if you're referring to domestic hot/cold water systems. Soldering is used in a different context as far as pipe goes. It is more applicable to copper pipe gas systems such as refrigeration or medical gasses.

DO NOT LET HOT FLUX OR SOLDER DRIP ON YOU. THEY ARE CAUSTIC AND WILL LEAVE SEVERE BURNS (trust me I know). ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GEAR INCLUDING GLOVES AND GLASSES.

Sweating pipe:
  • Make sure the copper is clean at the connection. Use light grit sand cloth to brighten the pipe and inside the fitting. They also make wire brushes for each size for cleaning in fittings. Also, water in the pipe is a no-no, it won't allow the pipe to get hot enough to take solder. Fully drain the system before attempting to make a repair.
  • Use solder flux on the cleaned area of the parts. The solder will pull only to where the flux has been put on and the pipe is clean. This is why cleaning is just as important as application.
  • Pull solder off the roll and form a L shape about 4"-6" long, this will help you get around the back side and when the solder takes, it takes quick.
  • Heat the fitting, not the joint of the pipe, with a propane/mapp gas/acetylene torch. Do not keep heat in one area long, you can 'burn up' the pipe. Heat causes the flux to have a chemical reaction and it will melt out of the fitting. Apply solder at fitting crack and work it back and forth along the crack with the heat also being moved around but always towards the 'back' of the fitting (other side from the crack).
  • Once the temperature is right, the solder will be sucked in to the joint. Be sparing with the heat at this time as the pipe doesn't need to be hotter than this. Apply solder all the way around the fitting and when the joint is full, it will begin to puddle up and drip at the bottom. You probably went through the whole 4"-6" you pulled out on the roll or more depending on the pipe size. Remove the heat and let the fitting cool after the joint is full.
  • Because there are at least 2 sides to every joint, it's good practice to try to keep heat towards the center of the fitting so that solder can get pulled into both joints equally. Also, never solder one joint at a time on a fitting; always solder all joints on a fitting at one time, one after another.

As far as tools and consumables go, it's torch, solder, flux, sandcloth, brushes and pipe. Get these at any Lowes, Home Depot, hardware store or plumbing supply house. I also highly recommend MAPP gas over propane.

I was taught from experience. I have been a commercial mechanical (plumbing, heating & air) contractor for over 15 years.

meecrob fucked around with this message at Feb 17, 2013 around 14:31

XmasGiftFromWife
Dec 25, 2010

"You'll poke your anus out." - George Dubya Bush


^^ great post.

For me I just follow the rules:
Dry fit
sand
flux
heat
Apply soder

Also avoid the 20 dollar combo packs. They are a rip off as they give you very little solder and flux.

And I have always found when replacing a valve, it is easier to cut it out and use a coupling rather than trying to pull connections apart.

XmasGiftFromWife fucked around with this message at Feb 17, 2013 around 15:05

Eggplant Wizard
Jul 8, 2005

I was getting sick of seeing that.


Moved to appropriate forum.

johnny sack
Jan 30, 2004

One day, this team will play to their expectations...

Just not this year..


Thanks for the responses. Also I had no idea this forum existed so thats cool to learn about. I should have realized there would be videos on YouTube. I guess now I go buy the supplies and do a little trial run on empty pipes.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ahhhhhhhhhhh!

johnny sack posted:

I should have realized there would be videos on YouTube.

You wouldn't believe the number of resources on Youtube for the fix-it newbie. Another good tip: you can fix drat near any appliance by googling the make & model along with "service manual".

And meecrob was right, the term "soldering" is used more often for other soldering uses, like circuit boards (which we have another thread in DIY for), or even arts and crafts.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at Feb 17, 2013 around 23:45

resistentialism
Aug 13, 2007



I'm no expert but it seemed like most of my problems with doing it were actually that I was sitting there with the torch on it too long and letting it get too hot. You just want the flux to start to fizzle a little

If all else fails sharkbites or similar are still cheaper than hiring a guy. Sometimes you want to make a connection in some dank old inaccessible corner where you also can't drain the water completely and a sharkbite is way easier.

helno
Jun 19, 2003
hmm now were did I leave that plane

Honestly the best way to learn it to try it out.

Buy some cheap bits and start sticking them together.

Here is another secret. Reusing fittings is asking for trouble. No matter how much prep I have tried I always seem to have pinholes when reusing fittings.

Fire Storm
Aug 8, 2004

what's the point of life
if there are no sexborgs?


I learned by buying the materials and reading a general home how-to book. My test setup was square of 4 90 degree corners, pipes connecting them, and a T joint with a hose connection in the middle of one of the pipes. Sand/prep, add flux Sweat the connections, allow to cool then hook up to the hose. Surprisingly enough it didn't leak.

Then I replaced all the old galvanized pipe in the house with copper over the next few days.

Delivery McGee
Oct 8, 2004

Bad Angus! Bad!

meecrob posted:

DO NOT LET HOT FLUX OR SOLDER DRIP ON YOU. THEY ARE CAUSTIC AND WILL LEAVE SEVERE BURNS (trust me I know). ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GEAR INCLUDING GLOVES AND GLASSES.

Also, wear a cotton shirt in case it does drip on you. One time my dad (HVAC installer) was brazing copper pipe, and a drop of condensation fell onto the workpiece, causing it to pop and splatter a bit of molten metal onto him. The front half of his Dickies polyester workshirt (and all his chest hair and a quarter-inch of beard) instantly disappeared in a Michael-Bay-style fireball.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

IF I HAVEN'T MENTIONED MY FIVE TON LATELY, CHECK MY AIR INTAKE FOR CHEMICAL WEAPONS


All the above advise is pretty good... I learned after already knowing how to solder electronics/wiring/PCBs for around 10 years, so I kinda cheated.

Cleaning the surfaces is key - if they are well cleaned it will sweat solder incredibly easily, if they are not, you will have a hell of a time trying to get anything done. I'm a fan of those red plastic handled/covered metal bristle brushes and bristle brush sockets/chinese finger traps Home Depot has for cleaning copper pipe, you just spin em about 10-15 times and the pipe or fitting is perfectly clean, unless it was heavily corroded starting out.

Don't touch the solder to the joint until the flux is bubbling a bit, then just sorta tickle it with the solder on the opposite side of the joint from where the torch flame is until you start seeing it rub off on the joint like a pencil. Wait a second or three, then you should be able to sweat it.

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Ambrose Burnside
Aug 29, 2007

pensive


Lil non-intuitive point: molten flux is generally more dangerous than molten solder (bearing in mind they're both extraordinarily dangerous), because liquid metal wants to bead and stick only to itself, whereas molten flux can and will stick you you and burn the piss out of you, like a much, much hotter hot-glue-gun burn. I've had the Leidenfrost effect make a molten drop of solder that skipped off my bare skin not burn me at least once or twice, you will never get that lucky with flux.

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