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This car has been a problem since I bought the drat thing, but lately I've been having a possible electrical problem with it. Lately when I turn the car off and remove the key from the ignition, the engine will stay on and rev until I open on of the doors at which point it will stop. In addition the warning lights on the dashboard will all light up faintly while something in the car makes a whining, honking noise. This wouldn't be much more than an irritation to me, but this is drawing power from the battery after the car is off and draining it. I have to disconnect the positive terminal on it when I'm done driving for the day otherwise I'll wake up to a dead battery. I've taken it to my local Firestone before and explained the problem to them, but they've told me that unless they actually see the problem occur or keep for a night or two then they wouldn't have any idea what the problem is or how to begin to fix it. I'm hoping that someone on here might be able to give an idea of what might be wrong with the car.
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| # ? Feb 18, 2013 17:36 |
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| # ? May 19, 2013 22:45 |
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When you say it revs, do you mean it idles higher or does it bang off the rev limiter? Either way, the car staying on and applying throttle after you turn it off and remove the key is a pretty serious problem that could cause a WOT runaway - even a little one that's stopped quickly can be deadly in the wrong situation. I wouldn't drive it like that.
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| # ? Feb 18, 2013 21:08 |
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There's two possible things going on here. When you say it's running after you shut it off - does it seem to be running normally, or is it stumbling and sputtering along? The latter would almost sound like dieseling, but that's theoretically impossible with EFI. If it's just running normally until opening the doors shuts it off...that makes me think that somewhere an accessory 12V is getting shorted to a ignition-only 12V and keeping the computer/etc powered on when it shouldn't be. My first guess would be possibly an amazingly hosed ignition switch. At any rate, you might be a bit hosed into having to leave it with some skilled techs long enough to replicate it - electrical gremlins like this are difficult as gently caress to diagnose, and that's a pretty major one.
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| # ? Feb 18, 2013 21:12 |
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When I say it revs, it sounds like I'm pumping the gas pedal and the needle on the tachometer jumps up and down.
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| # ? Feb 18, 2013 23:46 |
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Throttle position sensor? Have you tried reading codes off it?
Preoptopus fucked around with this message at Feb 19, 2013 around 02:52 |
| # ? Feb 19, 2013 00:40 |
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See if you can leave it at your dealer in return for a loaner. How frequently does the problem happen?
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| # ? Feb 19, 2013 02:45 |
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The only codes I ever get off it when I get an engine dianostic done on it is that the range sensor on my transmission needs to be replaced. As for how often this happens, it happens pretty much every time I turn the car off. There are times when it doesn't, but I haven't noticed anything that might account for why it didn't at that specific time. Speaking of the range sensor though: How long should one of those last? This is the third one that's gone bad on my since I bought the car.
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| # ? Feb 19, 2013 12:57 |
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In the meantime, have you thought about getting a quick disconnect terminal for your battery? Might save you a bit of hassle.
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| # ? Feb 19, 2013 13:29 |
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I've been disconnecting the positive terminal on the battery at end of day when I'm done driving. It's a pain in the rear end, but it's stopped me from having to find someone to jump my car at 6 in the morning.
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| # ? Feb 19, 2013 15:10 |
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Quick connect terminals look like what you use to put bicycle wheels on. ![]() Any parts store or autozone should have one for under ten bucks. You just splice it in.
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| # ? Feb 20, 2013 00:16 |
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More than likely taking the car into a garage at some point this weekend for some general maintainance. I'm going to have them take a look at it overnight and see if they can lock down a definite cause.
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| # ? Feb 21, 2013 18:16 |
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Disconnect the negative terminal instead, that way if it falls against the body or something metal it won't arc and destroy your battery and everything else in a blazing inferno of mistakes and regret
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| # ? Feb 22, 2013 11:07 |
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Preoptopus posted:Quick connect terminals look like what you use to put bicycle wheels on. I've never seen that particular style before, looks neat! Since I'm a hamfisted manbaby I much prefer these: ![]() Just unscrew the green bit and the battery's disconnected
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| # ? Feb 22, 2013 13:39 |
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I wonder if the wiring harness has a disconnected ground somewhere.
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| # ? Feb 23, 2013 09:23 |
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stevobob posted:Disconnect the negative terminal instead, that way if it falls against the body or something metal it won't arc and destroy your battery and everything else in a blazing inferno of mistakes and regret I can understand the fear of tools connecting to the chassis while wrenching the positive terminal, but please explain how a falling positive terminal will create sparks and infernos. Are you quite sure you understand how electricity works? That said, yes, always start a battery disconnect by the negative terminal.
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| # ? Feb 23, 2013 10:32 |
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| # ? May 19, 2013 22:45 |
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Sir Cornelius posted:I can understand the fear of tools connecting to the chassis while wrenching the positive terminal, but please explain how a falling positive terminal will create sparks and infernos. Are you quite sure you understand how electricity works? I brain farted on this. Oops
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| # ? Feb 25, 2013 01:59 |










