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Ive been working for a little while with my school's (USC) autocross/scca club. One of our issues is many people at school dont have a car to autocross or dont want to run theirs. Our solution? Find some one to give us an ultra light (1050lb with oil and gas) circle track car that makes 120hp with solid rear axle and wielded diff. Because clearly that is the right car choice for novice drivers. Oh and probably going to be running Hoosiers because what could be better to learn on. Its a Legends car powered by an FJ1200 motorcycle motor and trans. Most of the brakes and drive line are off 70s celicas and corollas. Uses the 10 bolt rear end. I dont currently have too many photos, but they are all of the car more or less as it currently sits. There has been a lot of work done on it. Things that have been done: - Completely rewired - all new shift linkages - miata radiator fan added for cooling - fluid changes - new fluid reservoirs - new (used) miata battery - Remounted seat and harness - body has been partially cleaned.   We had a lot of trouble getting it running. Apparently about a decade ago when it was still running some one put an FJ1200 TCI on it (digital ignitor box). It was supposed to have a XJ1200 TCI. Turns out the FJ was a lot cheaper so the school must have been trying to save a buck. Took us a lot of time and searching to find the issue. Turned out to be the pickup coil had a broken wire. Much better than we had expected. It started right up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZj7Ckckf9w The next bit was sounding easy. Get it running smooth, rebuild calipers, find money for tires, drive our first autocross with it in March! Next time we start working on it we put wheels on and go for a drive. Nice and fast, engine ran well, it shifted well, started and idled like a dream. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdSSa4zQAXM Not long after this it started making some really strange sounds. The video starts at the front of the transmission case, where the clutch is and ends at the back of the case where the gears are. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZjtCi1DJFY Any input on the sounds would be sweet, we haven't taken down the transmission yet to see. Fingers crossed its just sticky clutch plates. Current goals are to have it driving by the end of march for an autocross at Michilen Proving grounds. http://goo.gl/Xree5 We also want to find some 4x114 15" wheels because (the car runs 13" wheels right now) we know the guys at a miata racing shop (Panic Motorsports) pretty well and they hook us up with Hoosier SM6 take offs pretty often. Heres various pics from the last few weeks.   The offending pick up coil re mounted.  New firewall with newly mounted brake reservoir.   Sticky caliper that will be rebuilt this week.  Dash all wired up, with choke reinstalled. Neutral light doesnt not work. We think the switch is broken.  From right to left, oil cooling fan, ignition and fuel pump, engine fan, shifter, and behind the shifter and a brake biasing valve.  The little metal bit broke off our choke cable, this is the solution.  The guy who is helping us and letting us use his shop has all sorts of neat things, like threaded rivets.
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| # ? Feb 18, 2013 18:14 |
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| # ? May 19, 2013 03:34 |
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This owns.
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| # ? Feb 18, 2013 18:42 |
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I've always been interested in the drivetrain's of these things. Also, the shift linkage.
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| # ? Feb 19, 2013 18:21 |
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meecrob posted:I've always been interested in the drivetrain's of these things. Also, the shift linkage. If you want any specific pictures let me know and Ill try to get them next time Im working on it. We had to rebuild the shift linkage recently because there was way too much slop in it. It works pretty well now.
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| # ? Feb 19, 2013 18:42 |
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This is cool. We proposed a similar Lemons racing team at my school. They said no  . Again. They're good at saying no.
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| # ? Feb 19, 2013 18:50 |
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This is a cool project, but for autocross you don't want a welded diff at all, and if you run bigass grippy tires like you're proposing you'll likely just break the weld anyways since autox is full of lowspeed tight corners. Is an LSD within your budget? Edit: Just my opinion! I think if you ran a welded diff with normal street tires you'd have a really fun vehicle and the weld would last. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at Feb 19, 2013 around 21:44 |
| # ? Feb 19, 2013 21:32 |
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VelociBacon posted:This is a cool project, but for autocross you don't want a welded diff at all, and if you run bigass grippy tires like you're proposing you'll likely just break the weld anyways since autox is full of lowspeed tight corners. Is an LSD within your budget? Oh we know. We are keeping our eye out at pull-a-part for a new diff. Finding a LSD would be a bitch. If we can since we want to move from 13s to 15s we'd like to get a shorter rear end. I haven't calculated out our final drive yet but the best we can do would be about a 4.30 rear with LSD but those go for near $1k. I don't think we will break the diff because the car with driver is 1300lbs tops. The reason we haven't done any of this yet is because our budget is absolutely shoe string. We have almost nothing left right now after buying oil for the drat thing. We even have a guy willing to send us a bunch of spare parts and more springs for cost of shipping but we are having trouble scraping money together for that. In any case we are watching junk yards for the following as they have the same rear end as our car. 1974-79 Corolla SR5 w/5 speed 1984-87 Corolla GT-S <------- This would be the one to have. Came with the 4.30 LSD. 1971-85 Celica ST,GT 1971-73 Carina 1970-71 Corona 4 door 1972 Corona 1973-74 Corona HT Sedan 1975-82 Corona Sadi fucked around with this message at Feb 20, 2013 around 00:43 |
| # ? Feb 20, 2013 00:41 |
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Quote is not edit 
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| # ? Feb 20, 2013 00:42 |
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The suspension looks like it will create positive camber gain as it compresses. You could change this by moving the mounting location of the upper torque rod:  A little MSPaint explanation:  Of course, I could be splergin out here because the suspension is drooping from the car being on blocks.
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| # ? Feb 20, 2013 00:51 |
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That noise sounds like the idle is set way too low. Did you change the oil, plugs, and handle the rest of the basic maitenance? Clean the carbs, etc?
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| # ? Feb 20, 2013 01:21 |
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4x114.3 wheels should be pretty easy to pull off a 4-bolt RX7, 280ZX/early 300ZX or some older FWD Mitsubishi Lancers (OZ edition wheels should be 15" and quite nice). There's probably lots more too.
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| # ? Feb 20, 2013 02:39 |
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Giblet, thanks for the input about the suspension. I hadn't really looked at that or considered it yet. Ill be sure to be more detailed next time I see it. I've never really researched suspension design before.Z3n posted:That noise sounds like the idle is set way too low. Did you change the oil, plugs, and handle the rest of the basic maitenance? Clean the carbs, etc? The carbs seem super clean from the outside. We may have to clean them. I am planning to sync the carbs soon and I have been told idle should be around 1500, so we are planning on looking at it. The plugs don't look amazing but not bad either. It has all fresh oil and filter. Other maintence, the brakes are getting rebuilt soon. Thats about it off the top of my head.
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| # ? Feb 20, 2013 03:54 |
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I'd clean the carbs, check the valves, and check the idle speed. Chances are that it's idling low because one or more of the pilots is clogged - if you have to crank the idle adjuster all the way in to get it to idle you probably either clogged passages, or the float heights or otherwise are set wrong. But don't gently caress with the float heights unless they're way off. Run some wire through the pilots and the mains because if the gas is really varnished up, all the carb cleaner and compressed air in the world won't do a drat thing. Also check that the emulsion tube holes (what the main jet typically mounts into, if your carbs have them) are clear, and make sure none of the carb diaphragms are rotted out/torn, and the needles don't have any poo poo on them. A little bit of preventative maintenance should keep that engine running for a long, long time, keeping you guys autocrossing and having a blast for cheap  Good luck!
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| # ? Feb 21, 2013 05:06 |
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Is it safe to run that plastic brake fluid reservoir without rubber isolators against the bracket and firewall? How much of the bodywork are you planning to run during autocross? Since there's no wheel-to-wheel, you'd be ok to run without, right? Unless it put you in a different class somehow.
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| # ? Feb 24, 2013 21:17 |
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kimbo305 posted:Is it safe to run that plastic brake fluid reservoir without rubber isolators against the bracket and firewall? That's a good question. Our school has two of these cars, the other one used to be used for wheel to wheel and its reservoir is hooked up exactly the same way (though god knows if it was like that when it was actually raced, its been used almost exclusively in the lab for about 10 years now). The car we are using I dont think it will be an issue do to it only being used for autocross. Its very new so its a nice soft Teflon right now. I doubt it would get enough vibration energy built up to cause stress fractures. Our car currently doesnt fit SCCA's autocross legends class due to the TCI and some other little bits, so I think we are going to run A-mod or what ever the almost unlimited class is. We still have about a month and a half before our first event so we are more concerned with it running safely and reliably before we go. Then we will be looking into making it fit a class or making it faster. To be honest we aren't looking to win anything, just have fun so that's the out look we have on mods as well.
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| # ? Feb 25, 2013 06:11 |
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So your two choices are to run without bodywork for lighter weight or paint some school stuff on the panels and wear them?
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| # ? Feb 25, 2013 06:21 |
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kimbo305 posted:So your two choices are to run without bodywork for lighter weight or paint some school stuff on the panels and wear them? Yeah, we are going to run with body when we get it ready. The last group that worked on it had lots of stickers and there is some fiberglass damage we need to repair. In the end it will have some USC livery and some stickers for the Mechanical Engineering department who is letting us use their car. Will also have a few stickers from sponsors.
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| # ? Feb 25, 2013 14:33 |
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| # ? May 19, 2013 03:34 |
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We did a little work Monday. We were going to sync the carbs and rebuild the brakes. Well the professor who was going to let us use his mercury sticks forgot them and as it turns out we have calipers with different sized pistons on either side (it was a circle track car after all). So we got about nothing done. Hopefully we will be able to order a new caliper to match on of the old ones. We were quoted about $35 shipped which isnt bad. Wednesday we are hoping to sync the carbs and tare down the clutch. Some one was asking about the shift linkage so these first 3 photos are of the linkage.        This shows the size difference between the pistons.    I love the shop we are working in. The person who owns it has been super helpful. Sadi fucked around with this message at Feb 26, 2013 around 18:51 |
| # ? Feb 26, 2013 18:48 |
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