Search Amazon.com:
Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us $3,400 per month for bandwidth bills alone, and since we don't believe in shoving popup ads to our registered users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
  • Post
  • Reply
henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Male
Age: 21
Height: 5'10"
Weight:
2/18/13: 145

2/12/13


Background:
I've been climbing for a long rear end time, first tried it at like 6yo to 9yo, climbed regularly/competitively from 9 or 10yo to 16yo, then training on and off from 16 to now. Usual cycle is climb 3x a week for 3 months, hit v7 or v8, get stuck for a week or two, get bored and quit for at least 6 months. I always come back to climbing though, and would like to get in what i think would be good shape, ie 5.13ish. I've been climbing when I can the last few weeks and am starting to break into the 5.12s again, though my base isn't where it needs to be yet to train that hard. Currently doing easy volume work, 1000 vert ft/day (25 climbs) on 5.9 or greater is my usual workout, though this changes with how I'm feeling as I climb. Not pushing it very hard at all yet. Expecting to start conditioning in the next week or two instead of climbing until I'm done.

I work at a gym right now and set for them, so hopefully I'll be posting some stuff about setting, movement, and maybe some of what goes on in running the gym. We just put on our annual comp and Reset the gym in 2.25 days so setting is on the mind. I'll try to get video of me climbing some of what I set sometime this week.

I started kayaking and raft guiding last spring/summer and kayaking has since taken over my life. I'd say I'm a decent class 3/4 boater who kayaks conservatively and likes to feel at least some level of comfortable on the river. I don't push very hard unless I know I can do it. This is our most recent adventure, I'm in the green boat. This was the hardest thing we've yet run, may have been a bit too hard. I do an excellent job at not making things look good. We all swim out of a hole the guy giving us verbal beta for the run didn't know was there, apparently it only shows up at low water like we had. I'm going on a 3 week paddling/climbing/canyoneering trip to colorado, utah and cali this summer when the water runs out in the PNW, and I would like to not have to take more than 1 rest day in 5 and be strong enough to not hurt myself boating too much.

I like to run and would like to get faster/able to go longer, especially for this summer where I may literally be running shuttle. I have a fitness base that my feet can't support, so right now I'm struggling to cut off runs right as they get good to prevent injury. I'm also impulsive and run high a lot so I end up with minor injuries a lot.

I also ski, bike, canyoneer, mountaineer, raft guide and some other stuff, so expect some other fun stuff too. I do all this for fun and want to get better because it's fun, so if things change my goals will too. I might follow a training plan for running but that about it and only if I'm running enough to have the base to support it.

Goals:

Climbing:
5.13a, on lead, outside, clean by December 31st, 2012. (Probably Churning at Smith)
Comfortable leading 5.10 on gear all day
Learn to aid and climb a big wall, 15+ pitches. Preferably free the big wall, aid climbing is just interesting
I kind of want to onsite Heinous at smith, this probably will not happen as it will probably be my first outside 5.12.

Running:
Run the corvallis half marathon course sometime the weekend of 4/13 (the race is on 4/13 but I seem to spend all my money kayaking so i might not be able to afford it)

Kayaking:
Get comfortable on class 4 rivers/creeks.
Get strong enough to prevent stress injuries boating multiple days in a row
Get flat water cartwheels and spins on waves/cartwheels this summer when the water runs out.
Be better at boofing (Flat boofs off of Champaign and Hammering spot on Canyon Creek Wa)
Escape a hole in my boat after getting worked for a while (this is a dumb goal but I swam out of the last two holes I got worked in)

Skiing:
Ski off of Mt Hood, Mt. St. Helens, Do a ski traverse of the three sisters
Get in at least one steep and deep tree day in the backcountry.
Break 6 days for sure, shoot for 10+ (at 1 )



Diet:
I eat like poo poo and want to fix this by cooking more and just watching my intake. I'm hoping that just logging what I eat will make me feel bad enough to clean it up. Not going to count calories or macros, don't care that much.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Deathy McDeath
Apr 28, 2002

Always hungry.
Always watching.
Chowdown


Youre a fit dude and these are some cool goals. Do you have any bouldering vids?

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Thanks, no videos yet. I might go boulder after work to see how my fingers are feeling after the setting marathon, I'll try and get some video if I do. They were still wrecked Saturday but I didn't do anything except sleep yesterday so maybe they're better.

I want to go ski tomorrow but can't get anyone to go and I don't have a car. Who knew finding someone to skip class and ski would be so hard, even when all my friends are dirtbags in some aspect. So who knows if that is happening.

Things I did today:

Ran:
3.43 miles, 26:01, 7:35/mi avg. Right foot/knee a bit sore, but should go away by tomorrow

Biked:
2.65 miles, 11:00(ish), 14.5mph avg. Includes a few stop signs/lights, my usual commute. Headwind sucked.

2.62 miles, 8:00(ish), 19.63mph avg. Commute home, bit of tailwind.

Ate:
1 yogurt, 16oz chai, 1 scone for breakfast
1 bowl rasp/blue/strawberry granola + whole milk for snack
A bunch of kimchi fried rice for lunch/post class meal.

To do:
Bike back to campus for work
Boulder?
Bike home

benwards
Apr 9, 2007

Another youthful indiscretion


Those are cool goals. Looking forward to seeing some climbing vids. I've been stuck at comfortably top-roping 5.11s for a while, so leading 5.13s sounds inspirational (if not exactly aspirational...).

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Yeah, anybody got tips for getting good vids? I usually boulder alone and only climb with 1 friend in the gym, so getting good TR video will be tough. Wearing a gopro in the gym would be silly.

If you have been stuck at 11 for a while, get on some 12s and just flail your way up. Don't worry about looking good, just get up there and grunt it out. Whenever I bump up a grade it usually involves me swearing my way up the wall. Also look for some super soft 12s just so you can say you climb 12s, it will be way easier after the first.

I am terrified of heights and hate leading, so getting better at that is something i have to work on. I only lead stuff I can onsight all day outside, so getting used to falling while working a route will be tough. I also struggle with working stuff outside because of the exposure. This whole climbing hard outside will be a whole new game for me and I think I'm really excited about it.

benwards
Apr 9, 2007

Another youthful indiscretion


Haha, yeah, that's definitely been my approach. I've flailed my way up a couple of sporadic 12s, but then took a six month hiatus (sounds familiar...) and lost a lot of ground. Good on you for tackling your fears, though: a lot of folks I know got into climbing in spite of (or even because of) their acrophobia, and it's been really great for all of them.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Went to work, total of like 7 miles on the bike, forgot something and had to turn around halfway there. Work was fun, threw some jugs on a wall so people can get to and swap the rope between the two directionals for the two finals routes from the comp. Bouldered after, took it easy and just tried to get back into it. Wasn't too stoked and the whole session was sort of frustrating. Not feeling strong, not finished climbs or even sticking the movement I want to. I can see the sequence and the moves and just am not strong enough to do it. Sent a few hard V3s and came real close on a V4 or two.

I'm not sure if it's my newish shoes or the hold, but some heel hooks were painful and not secure at all. First time bouldering in them so who knows. I haven't been bouldering in months and it was good to just do it. I know the strength will come back and rushing it will just end up with me hurt but poo poo it's frustrating to have been climbing v6/7 last time I was into bouldering and not stick v4.

Videos were either of me falling off routes for dumb reasons or me climbing out of the frame, so maybe next time. Climbing again tomorrow afternoon with some friends, trying all the routes I haven't yet from the comp (all of them). Also we finished setting on friday night and serious amounts of tape is already missing. I don't know how our climbers do it but holy poo poo, one of my routes is missing all the tape on a 4 move sequence and I came in tonight to people trying to throw a hilarious dyno. I guess this log will be sort of journal-y but w/e.

Grisly Grotto
Jun 17, 2003

Are sure you should fight tonight? You don't look well.


henne posted:

I also ski, bike, canyoneer, mountaineer, raft guide and some other stuff, so expect some other fun stuff too.

This is the best reason to do things!

I watched that kayaking video, and the byline on it:

quote:

This was the most fun I have had, and the most scared I've ever been

Pretty much exactly sums up my feelings about kayaking! (spent a few days on a river in Nepal doing class II/III rapids)

anyway, good luck climbing poo poo

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Couldn't get a ride to ski today, so that didn't happen. Maybe Sat+Sun as all by boating buddies are guiding this weekend or are broken.

Climbed today for a bit. Did like a 5.8, slopey 5.10, 5.9+ and then took a burn on the women's final route from the comp. It starts at mid 5.10 then cranks to 5.12ish by the top. Set a new high point and got a sequence cleanly that I was farting around on and pumping out earlier. Went to work and laminated things, then took another burn and got to 2 draws from the top, through the sequence from earlier and onto the next really tricky part. Not got the sequence sussed yet but everything after that is hard, not technical. Hoping to link all the moves by this week and get clean next week, then work it on lead to get comfortable leading hard things.

Also I bouldered the first few moves of the men's final, and it's hard as poo poo. It starts as 5.11(+?) and gets to like 5.13+ at the top, not really sure. Powerful, precise moves on mostly features for feet the whole way through. I didn't get high enough for it to get hard, but stoked on it anyway. Will try to get on it for reals this week.

Also I got the point to v grade conversion mixed up in my head and was climbing a grade harder than I thought I was, so almost sending v5. This makes me happy because I got really angry at the sandbagging last night and though we were going to be softer but accurate on the grades. No video today, forgot.

Rode bike about 7 miles today, didn't time it, forgot.

Had some cake and yogurt before climbing, a smoothie at work and now I have chicken, potato and macaroni salad from fred's to eat.

Might run later if a friend gets back to me but I forgot she might so I showered and

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Took the past few days off from climbing for my elbow which was hurting. Went to the kayak pool session Wednesday night and played around, then ran thursday night before paddler's pint night and then paddled this afternoon. We we going to run upper abiqua creek but the gate was closed so we went and lapped Scott Mill's Falls, a 15 foot tiered drop. 4 foot sliding ledge into some boney mank then a 10 foot falls with a rolling lip. Good boof practice and a good friday afternoon. Lots of time driving around on back roads drinking beer talking poo poo trying to find something to run.

Run:
3.76 miles, 29:27, 7:50 avg pace.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Went skiing today at bachelor, it dumped for the first time in a while and was great. Skied the trees all day and had some solid fun. Weather sucked which made it more fun, though it didn't snow hard enough for any real accumulation while skiing. New layering set up worked great, cold at the top of the lift but warmed up as soon as I started skiing again.

Skiing:
16,800 vert feet.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Ran today and was still sore from yesterday. Got stuck at a lot of lights which further slowed me down. Glad I got out, beautiful evening and great wrap up for the weekend. Should be climbing tomorrow before work, will at least boulder at some point.

Run:
3.95 miles, 34:10, 8:39/mile.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Monday:

Climbed before work, wasn't satisfying. Need to stop working problems and train to get stronger by climbing a lot of things.

Tuesday:

Went for a run, it was great. Something clicked in the second half of the run an went from ~8:15 pace to ~7:00 pace with same level of exertion. GPS on phone is useless at getting the distance correct so no splits to actually see how much faster I was. Went from Run to a work safety audit to a friends 21st, got trashed from running right before and I just drank a lot. Birthday boy was apparently drunk till noonish the next day.

Run:3.75 miles, 27:13, 7:16 avg pace.

Wednesday:
Was hungover/felt lovely all day. Went climbing in the evening, knocked out a few 5.8/5.7s for warmup, then climbed three 5.11, fell once on the first (slopers are my enemy) and got the others clean. Got a 5.12- with one dumb fall, lowered past that sequence and finished up the route. Should have lowered to the ground to just get it clean. Finished with a 5.10 or 2 that went clean and were fun.

Went to the kayak pool session, didn't have any of my stuff so I borrow a boat and goofed around. Worked on hand rolls, offside rolls, offside hand rolls(bad) and tried an offside backdeck roll. It didn't work at all. Also tried to flip over, pull my skirt, swim to the bottom of the pool, get back in the boat upside down, put skirt on and hand roll up. Didn't get the skirt on right and sank the boat when I tried to roll. Will get next time.

Went for "one" beer after a meeting, had more than one and suddenly it was 1am and I was still at the bar playing giant jenga.

Climbing:
5.8, 5.7 warmup
5.11 sloper, 1 fall from pump
5.11 clean
5.11 clean
5.12- 1 fall early due to missed foot, felt solid the rest of the way up
5.10 cool down
5.10 cool down

Today:

Another rough day with a 8am presentation to start it off. Was planning on running this evening but now I think I'm running and climbing this evening. Will edit in what I do after it happens.

Been eating and feeling like poo poo the past few days so making a good diner tonight is on the agenda. Got work covered on saturday so this weekend should be Smith on saturday and Bachelor sunday. I may have committed to leading Toxic (5.11c) and Heinous Cling (5.12a) on saturday, depending on if people hold me to my drunken poo poo talking. I've never lead harder than 5.10b before so it'll be an adventure either way. I actually want to lead Toxic and can probably be talked onto Heinous though the 20 feet of runout is scary, but the falls are supposed to be clean so who knows.

benwards
Apr 9, 2007

Another youthful indiscretion


henne posted:


Went to the kayak pool session, didn't have any of my stuff so I borrow a boat and goofed around. Worked on hand rolls, offside rolls, offside hand rolls(bad) and tried an offside backdeck roll. It didn't work at all. Also tried to flip over, pull my skirt, swim to the bottom of the pool, get back in the boat upside down, put skirt on and hand roll up. Didn't get the skirt on right and sank the boat when I tried to roll. Will get next time.


I remember the first time I nailed a hand roll. Felt so drat proud. I eventually got to doing the bail out, touch bottom, re-enter, roll maneuver, which is totally useless on a wave/in the river, but is still pretty cool. Keep at it: I found that if you have a solid hip snap, you don't even really have to reattach your skirt unless you really want to.

Extra credit: my uncle is a big surf kayaker, instructor, former champ, etc. His favorite is the Beer Roll. You open your can of beer, drink half, flip your boat (without spilling any beer), rest your can on the bottom of your boat (now facing up), grab it with the other hand, hand roll back to the surface (off hand; no spills), finish your beer. Never quite managed that one myself...

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

The beer roll is great. Pool sessions with a bunch of people you paddle with are always fun. I went climbing tonight and it was fun. Got the 5.12- from last night clean despite loving up the same sequence I did last time I was able to reverse it and finish it. Got shut down on the last move of a different 5.12- which was super frustrating. Fun climb up till then, then just a brick wall. Real dumb.

Climbing:
5.8 x2ish
5.9 x2ish
5.10 x2ish
5.11(maybe) x1
5.12-, clean
5.12-, not finished
5.10

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Good weekend. Easy day of climbing saturday at smith, lead a 5.7 and a 5.8, climbed a multipitch, did some exploring and just enjoyed being outside. Saw a guy work the Optimist (5.14b) while at smith. It's one of the hardest crack climbs in the world. It was awesome. Sunday we went to batchy and skied. Bluebird day, did 3 runs down the summits bowls and the snow was this great windpacked powder that made for cruizer turns. Spent the rest of the day goofing around on blues and jumping off of stuff. Got in a solid 22,000 vert for a fun full day and still stopped with some left in my legs.

Climbed today in the gym. Knocked out some fun 5.9-5.10 warmups, then tried the 5.12- I got shut down on last time. Shut down at the same point, though solid till there. Gonna leave it alone for a few weeks and come back. Got to the top of a hard 5.11+, it's sustained 5.11 with a few 11+ cruxes. Cut the day short and didn't cool down to make it to work on time, where I got ready to start setting something tomorrow. Probably going to be 5.11+ or 5.12-, small holds and footwork if it goes how I want. Will be the hardest I've set. Planning on running tomorrow and I might be going climbing next weekend too, depending on how full the car is. Stoked for the week and the weekend.

Im finally getting back into what I consider "climbing shape". I'm not sending hard things but my body does what I tell it to and I have the strength and control to hit the body position I want, even if I can't stick the next hold I don't feel like my fitness is letting me down anymore. Got a friend stoked on climbing 5.12 with me this spring so we're starting to look at climbs to project.

Climbing:
5.9
5.8
5.10
5.11
5.11
5.12-, 1 fall at approx halfway, found much better sequence and got it easy try two. Still getting shut own at the end
5.11+(+?) hard, fell a lot but should send clean next time or time after I think. Most of the falls were figuring out sequences.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Just got done with a run and getting ready to head in a set for a while. Forgot to mention I twisted my knee last night pivoting from a high step into a drop knee somehow. It hurts whenever my foot rotates toes to the outside but is otherwise fine. Ran slow to keep it easy and to watch my knee, although I was as tired at the end as I am running a minute faster pace. Felt like poo poo though from eating too close to running though. I have splits this time because the phone didn't flip out and triple the distance.

Running:
4.13mi, 37:50, 9:10 avg pace

Splits:
1st: 9:28
2nd: 9:03
3rd: 9:26
4th: 8:45


EDIT:

Set tonight, got about a 1/3 of my new route up. hard 5.11 or 5.12, not really sure. No tweaking just getting the holds on the wall to start climbing and changing. When finished I'll get a video of me climbing it an post it. Also climbed a v3 a friend was setting to help him dial it in. So a few laps on that too. Good night of setting and climbing.

henne fucked around with this message at Mar 6, 2013 around 06:54

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Just got back from a run. Was raining and was my first fasted morning run. It felt great. Went out planning on going slow after yesterdays rough run, but ended up saying gently caress it and running at whatever pace I hit while zoned out in the music. At the end of the 2 miles I felt like I could keep going for a while, tired but not worked. I've got a 4.5 miler coming up tomorrow and I think I'm going to use the same strategy, run at whatever pace my body falls into. If it doesn't work, it's only a training run. If I feel like something is hurting more than normal and its not good, I'll slow down, but I'm done running slow to run slow. Every time I pull my pace back to my 'easy" pace I end up more worked and more sore than when I run "fast". Anyways, climbing later and maybe setting after that. Would like to get the crux of my route up today or tomorrow and tomorrow is real busy.

Running:
2.08mi, 15:03, 7:13 avg, no splits.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Got back from climbing, wasn't a great day. Food or hydration wasn't right and I felt weak. Did mostly easy stuff with the intent to set at the end but didn't set or climb hard. Tried the women's final's route again, fell at the same two points again. I always fall right after pulling over the roof and have been stuck at the same point for a few weeks now. I have alternate beta to try where I fall the first time but the second one my hand blows as soon as I get ready to move to the next move. Frustrating. Also wasn't climbing in the gym I have all my projects so no progress on those.

My knee is sore but not painful after today, so I didn't set and am home resting. I apparently have a tendon sheath irritation on my left ring finger, but it wasn't acute onset and as long as I don't touch it I can climb on it so that's the plan. Will stop if it starts to hurt when I load that finger. My bike light is making GBS threads itself and that combined with my bad day of climbing has me in a bad mood. Bouldering on the beach this weekend is about the only thing keeping me going through tomorrow, my long day of classes.

Climbing:
5.8
5.9
5.9
v3
5.9+
5.10, lovely awkward route
Finals route
few laps on the start of my 5.12 to get a feel for it.
Maybe something else?
v3
5.12 alternate sequence check.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Went for a run this morning. Got up, had two packets of instant oatmeal, drank some water and went out. Felt great, way better than my run two days ago. Tuesday was 4mi/9:09 avg, today was 4.5mi/8:08 avg. After tuesday's run I was wiped and just sat around the house. Today I feel great and only ended my run because it was supposed to be 4.5 miles, felt like I could have gone a lot farther without slowing down. I didn't watch my pace today except for the last few blocks where I sped up to see how it felt. Not having to watch my pace and consciously slow myself down was great. Having to continually dial my pace in and tell myself to go slower is exhausting and takes the fun out of running for me, so at this point I'm running a natural pace until something changes. I wish runkeeper would give me useful splits, I know I ran the beginning and end a bit faster than the rest but would be nice to actually check that.

Running:
4.66mi, 37:51, 8:08 avg pace

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

What a weekend. Amazing bouldering on the beach in the hot sun, the first sunburn since august. Good people, good times, just a weekend filled with beautiful things. Should have pictures and video in a few days, I know quite a lot was taken.

Today I climbed and ran. Short climbing session after class/before work, did a bouldering pyramid waiting for my partner then a modified top rope pyramid when he got there. Saw a edurance post in someones log and felt like climbing a lot. Felt good, wiped at the end from doing dumb stuff.

Ran after work, longest run yet. Ran at the pace that felt right, which was quite a bit slower tonight after such a long day. Feel great right now, just finished. Legs and lungs could keep going for a while, knees ankles and feet were feeling it though. Was supposed to be yesterday but was on the beach climbing so it got bumped to tonight.

Climbing:
5.8 x2

v0 x4
v1 x3
v2 x2
v3 x1
v2 x2
v1 x3
v0 x4
(Bouldering was up and down climbed without rest between laps, just shaking out as I climbed. Rest between routes was as long as it took me to find the next one/retape an irritated spot on my foot.)

5.6 x3 (Features only for feet on lap 3)
5.7 x3 (Missing lots of tape and had a few big moves)
5.8 x3 (Climbed normally)
5.9 x3 (Was climbed L-R-L-R the whole way up, no matching no bumping, making whatever cross we needed to)
(Top rope was climbed back to back with only resting on the route and being lowered back to the start, no down climbing. Ten pushups between each route.)

40 foot roped walls and 15 foot bouldering gives 845' in 1.5 hours.

Running:
7.01mi, 1:05:47, 9:23 avg pace, consistent splits. 400 feet of climbing which is a lot more than normal, and it was all in one hill. The hill will be a feature in future long runs, it was fun.

Waffle Zone
Mar 17, 2004



I like the idea of doing that bouldering pyramid, if I can't find a partner tonight I'll try that.

Were you working on endurance? I feel like 5.6-5.9 couldn't be much of a workout for you, except in extreme volume.

I use RunKeeper to track my runs too and it's annoying that you can't manually add splits during the work out. I also don't think you can share your splits. I wish they had a training program for mile times and sprinting. Everything is for doing marathons and half marathons under a certain time.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Waffle Zone posted:

I like the idea of doing that bouldering pyramid, if I can't find a partner tonight I'll try that.

Were you working on endurance? I feel like 5.6-5.9 couldn't be much of a workout for you, except in extreme volume.

I use RunKeeper to track my runs too and it's annoying that you can't manually add splits during the work out. I also don't think you can share your splits. I wish they had a training program for mile times and sprinting. Everything is for doing marathons and half marathons under a certain time.

The bouldering pyramids are fun, you are pumped the whole time and still climbing kind of hard.

I don't really know what we were working on, its not a pumpy workout, though we would have gone to 5.11 if we had had time. Its more of a climbing fast and getting sweaty and out of breath and then continuing to climb like that. As you climb harder you get more and more efficient until it all starts to go to poo poo, where you start going back down grades. Most of my workouts are ad-hoc and based on how I feel and what I want to do that day. I'm still getting back to a previous level so its all about consistency and having fun right now, not serious training.

They aren't really splits, it just shows average pace for each mile on the run under activity report. I only get useful ones occasionally because it adds a ton of distance to my runs and throws the starts right out so I reenter it with adjusted milage.



Some pictures from the weekend. We ended up all climbing in tights that we wore during the recent comp. I'm in the flower print. We only climbed saturay, sunday we lost an hour from the time change and missed low tide to get to where we thought we needed to go.

We were on the beach


There was excellent traversing


Basically you wait for the tide to go out and the rocks to dry off and see what you can find.



One of the best problems we found. V3/V4





Group shot


Video is still in the works I guess. I also have a roll of film I need to develop somehow.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Been real busy and both my left knee and a ring finger have been hurting, so no climbing or running till last night. Tried a couple of strides and they kicked my rear end but were a lot of fun. After the second one I never really recovered and ran the last mile and a half ish with a bad stich in my side. Felt like poo poo but kept up my pace and as soon as I stopped I felt better, so that was good I guess. Busy day with classes today but hopefully a run this afternoon while it's still nice. Kayaking tomorrow, whoooooo. Will get video. Rafting sunday to figure out how to row for a trip in a week, should be fun.

Running:
4.58mi, 39:00, 8:31 avg pace, 2x20sec(ish) strides.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Ran a bit ago, not a good run. tired and felt like I was working really hard for the pace. probably should have slowed down but it was nice and I didn't want to. Did a stride because it was fun. Might start running with a HRM and music instead of gps and pace by HR and not the gps's displayed pace. I think it would help me slow down. Legs feel all tight after last night and today so I want to get a foam roller soon. Was actually able to stretch my hamstrings on the curb after, normally my heel hits before I get into the stretch. Need to stretch more in general but always forget.

Running:
2.90mi, 23:25, 8:05 avg pace. Middle mile was almost a full minute faster than the other two. Still not good at telling how fast I'm running, felt slow.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Well with dead week + finals + the drat bcl trip I've not done much lately. Fixed that with a run yesterday that I thought was going to kill me in terms of having to slog it out the whole time but feel good today. Could not find my pace until the last bit and then it was cruiser. Race in two weeks and not sure I'll finish with losing the last two weeks but I'll certainly try.

Most of my climbing friends went to red rocks without me over spring break (I had a class and had to move) and now I'm stoked to climb hard. I have a tendon that's been giving me warning signs so I'll have to take it easy to get it strong again.

Running:
7.58 miles, 1:05:48, 8:40 avg.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

I ran yesterday and the day before yesterday. The day before yesterday was p bad, longer runs have been killing me. Bad calf cramps and just miserable experiences. Yesterday was amazing, just went out and ran around however fast I want. Only was out for twenty minutes, but my avg pace for the middle mile was 6:35 and the whole time was having a great time. Will do more runs like that in the future. Will probably run tonight and maybe climb idk. I need to remember to stretch post and pre run to help with this calf cramping.

Sure had been a while since I climbed, though I did finish setting my route (finally) on monday. Still haven't had a chance to actually climb the whole thing entire.

Also there is a scale in my new place, I still weigh about the same. Will maybe get a picture soon.

Running:
Tuesday:
4.56mi, 36:36, 8:02 avg

Wednesday:
2.82mi, 20:00, 7:06 avg

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

So since my last post I've run a few times and climbed once. While climbing I injured a pulley in my left ring finger, taking me out of climbing for a while. I'm done climbing for april and maybe the first part of may. This kind of killed my motivation to run and combined with being in portland this weekend I'm not going to be able to run the half and so I'm just gonna say toxx failed. It sucks but whatever. Been doing a fair bit of boating, went out twice last weekend, once on wednesday, yesterday, and will be doing a double day tomorrow. I have footage from yesterday I'm still putting together but should be up later. I have one scary swim and one loooong unintentional surf before I swim to get out of the drat hole I was stuck in. We walked out after that cuz I was done on the water for the day.

Tomorrow is east fork lewis river and canyon creek washington in prep for the nw creeking comp next weekend where I'll probably race both rivers. The Corvallis Cliff Canoers are coming up in force and are trying to win everything. We are hoping to have someone on every podium.

snailshell
Aug 26, 2010

I LOVE BIG WET CROROCDILE PUSSYT


I love your low tide boulder pics, have you ever done ocean kayaking or river only?

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

I've done a bit of ocean kayaking in the past but all of what I do now is whitewater. The ocean stuff I did was multi-day tours and I really enjoyed it but I don't have the time right now to do anything like that, it's usually before or after class stuff. Do you kayak?

snailshell
Aug 26, 2010

I LOVE BIG WET CROROCDILE PUSSYT


When I can, I wouldn't call it one of the "things I do" but it's awesome. Once I was combo snorkeling/ocean kayaking and I saw a whole school of Pacific green turtles

Good luck with all your goals, they look ambitious but doable & fun!

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

snailshell posted:

Good luck with all your goals, they look ambitious but doable & fun!

Thanks!


Yesterday was filled with kayaking. We ran The East Fork of the Lewis River first, which was a good old time. Not scary, just good fun boating. It was my first time running screaming left as well as the left line on horseshoe falls. Only one swim in the group, on horseshoe. One swim out of the group (it was a zoo today) that was a total failure of setting safety and our group ended up rescuing the guy after all kinds of poo poo. We sped off after that to get away and only saw two other people who paddled through.

After the EFL we ran Canyon Creek Washington which was terrifying. I was tired from the EFL and was a bit over my head. Rolled twice in Swizzle Sticks, the entrance rapid to the steep section and that freaked me out for the whole rest of the run. I was not into but still ran everything but Toby's ledge. Had alright lines through everything but wasn't really happy with them.

Swam Big Kahuna after a great line leading to getting pushed into the undercut wall by the boil. One of our group had had a scary swim immediatley before, getting pushed behind the falls and then flushed deep enough that she came up a solid 40 feet from the falls. We had another swim in Prelude to Thrasher that ended nicely as he flushed right away. Good day on the water though I don't think I'll be running Canyon after EFL again, or running Canyon any higher for a while.

Working on the Breitenbush video stuff right now, will do EFL and Canyon video stuff after. I got to borrow a friend's gopro for the day and I think I got some good shots.

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

The Breitenbush video is done. I didn't have the best day of boating and blundered right into some big holes, but it was a beautiful day on the water and quite a bit of fun.

http://vimeo.com/64178874

Writing a report for a class, going to class and then going paddling after class. Gonna go run the Siletz at low water probably as the light fades. Probably won't be taking a camera though it should be pretty.

Videos from EFL and Canyon have been looked at and the footage looks good.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

henne
May 9, 2009
Ask me about bouldering with Team Jacob

Getting ready to head up to the Northwest Creeking Comp later today. I'm signed up to race both the EFL and Canyon Creek race but it depends on flows for Canyon. They got some rain last night and the gauges are spiking but will hopefully drop by sunday. Most of the CCC is heading up and we have shirts/jerseys for the race. Stoked. After this weekend I will be averaging every other day on the water for the past two weeks which is cool.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply