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Ok guys I'm looking for a 70's pick up truck to mess around with. I really like the look of the Fords over Chevy but would be open to either. I was looking for an 80's Toyota truck but they are getting really hard to find and the ones I do find are about 90% rust or are way to much $. I live in NW Colorado near Steamboat Springs so 90% of the vehicles out here are trucks. I have found a couple F150s and F250s near me. A 76 F150 with a 351m and a 73 F250 high boy with a 390. What should I be looking for in these older trucks other than rust? What would be the best engine choice for reliability? Here's the F150 I'm looking at. It's a 76 with a 351m for $2500.   Truck sounds good but I just don't think it's worth $2500. He's actually asking $2850 for it but would "take" $2500. I just got rid of my 71 FJ55 Land Cruiser because it just had too much rust and parts were just getting too expensive and difficult to find. I'm not looking for a show truck, just something to tool around town with and take off road once in a while. Any suggestions on specific years, models or engine combos I should be looking for? I would prefer a manual and 4x4 is a must.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 03:57 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 09:41 |
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The 351M is a boat anchor - it has reasonable torque, but that's about its only saving grace; it's very much a smog-era motor with next to no power. I say this as a former F-150/351M owner, of course. The only good thing I can say about that engine is it had DuraSpark II - Ford's earlier electronic ignition. It's also a bit of an oddball to find go-fast parts for, if you want them - some 351C stuff will fit. IMO you'd be better off with the 390, or a 351C/W. I don't think the Windsor came into widespread use until the 80s. IIRC, the M was developed to replace another engine, but the engine it was supposed to replace lived on many years after the M was discontinued? If you're only concerned with reliability, the 351C/M/W have decent parts availability (W probably being the easiest to find parts for today), and had electronic ignition as early as ... 1973? The 390 will be a little harder to find parts for today. Either way, if you wind up with something with points, I would really recommend swapping to a Ford DuraSpark setup (if you get a Ford) or GM HEI (if you get a GM). There's other aftermarket versions, but the OE versions are dead simple. And always carry a spare ignition module with you - my 1980 F-150 (351M) actually had pre-drilled holes from the factory to mount a second DuraSpark module next to the original.  e: VVV that too. There's a lot of mid-late 90s trucks going for that around here, and they have comforts like a/c and cruise control. some texas redneck fucked around with this message at Mar 16, 2013 around 05:08 |
| # ? Mar 16, 2013 04:56 |
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I know every areas different but I see all sorts of big trucks like that for under a grand in similar shape. That seems really high.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 05:02 |
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Locally you could buy a 1994 F-150 for $2000. Just because it's old doesn't mean it should demand a premium.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 06:38 |
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"Reliability" is going to be hard to define because you are going to have a hard time finding someone who was able to kill any of these trucks. M block Fords (351M/400 motors) were a bit of an oddball and aren't very popular. If presented with a choice, I'd choose any Windsor or "big block" FE/385 series (390ci/460ci) or Cleveland over an M block (in that order). If presented with no choice, I'd still take an M block without worry. For Chevy, SBC/BBC I don't think I'd care much either way. The transmission is what I'd look at more than motor. I'd want a C6 over C4 for Ford, and TH400 over TH350 for Chevy. But if you need a transmission rebuild, you're really not looking at much for any 3 speed. A 1000HP 3 speed soft rebuild >$1000 would be robbery. Those are all autos. Are you dead set on a manual? I think granny gears are not easy to come by, which would be a must for me if I was looking at offroad duty. Engine and transmission are probably the least of your worries. My #1 focus for anything of that era is HACKER PATROL. Make sure all of the wiring and vacuum harnesses look original or relatively untouched. Wiring especially. How bad is Colorado for emissions? Because if it's "not very", then CONGRATULATIONS 60's era vacuum line time. If I was buying that particular truck, I'd ask where the passenger wiper blade was. And if that blocker heater would burn the truck to the ground. Then ask when the front hubs got packed with grease, and with how much, then kinda sigh despite the answer (hoping it was recently and not too much). All the trim looks good in the pics. Poke at the rear quarters and rockers for rust, which look good in those pics. Look under the dash and under the hood for any signs of electrical tape and prepare to redo anything you see.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 06:38 |
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:"Reliability" is going to be hard to define because you are going to have a hard time finding someone who was able to kill any of these trucks. The truck in the pics has a 4spd manual. Granny 1st. The thing that bothers me is it's a 76. Ford didn't put the 351m into the F series till 77. Where I live in CO we have no inspection/emissions. I'll probably keep looking. This truck was purchased by a local mech shop from a widow and they are flipping it for a quick sale. If it was $1500-$2000 I might jump on it.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 08:18 |
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:That seems really high. I guess he is really loving high on that fresh CO wacky weed. He's asking 1800 more than I can get a 4 speed diesel 1984 F250 Supercab for here, and that's 4x4 with a shell. I'd keep looking, that truck is too rough for almost 3K, unless you really want that bodystyle or something else.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 09:06 |
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Yeah, I paid half that for an 87 3/4 ton 4wd in xlt lariat trim, with under 100000 miles on it. Shop around.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 14:39 |
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InterceptorV8 posted:I guess he is really loving high on that fresh CO wacky weed. It so common in Colorado and Wyoming for people to over-value their trucks when they go to sell them.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 16:04 |
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Bald tires on that thing, too. Not worth more than $1000. Travel out of state if you need to and save some money. The 73-87 GM trucks are pretty solid. Most have a 305, 350, or 454. The 305 is a bit of a turd but I had an '84 and swapped in a 350 and enjoyed it. Plenty of torque to pull things and it was incredibly easy to work on. Parts are hilariously cheap and can be found ANYWHERE.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 17:02 |
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Even though I have a Ford, I'd also suggest a Chevy. Very simple stuff.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 17:44 |
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CommieGIR posted:It so common in Colorado and Wyoming for people to over-value their trucks when they go to sell them. Wiggles and I get that here as well. It isn't just trucks, someone was asking $5700 for a 1990 Honda Civic the other day.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 19:39 |
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I'll just chime in and echo what other people have said. Keep looking around, if you really want a ford look for a C/W engine and not an M. More availability and cheaper parts.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 20:37 |
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Jesus that's high .... keep looking. The Fords of the early 90's fuel injection are pretty dead rear end reliable. Hell, GM TBI injection is reliable as hell too.
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| # ? Mar 16, 2013 20:47 |
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Yeah I'm going to pass on this one. I love the stance of the 70's Fords though. They just have attitude. I found a 1986 F150 with a 302 4x4 4spd for $1800 obo, but I hear bad things about the twin I beam suspension. The search continues...
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| # ? Mar 17, 2013 00:23 |
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Ford introduced the Twin I-Beam suspension in 1965.  In fact, I'm fairly sure they used it up until at least 2002 (I'll have to crawl under my stepdad's 2001 to verify though). I know for a fact it was at least used through at least 1996 on the F-150..There's nothing wrong with Twin I-Beam - unless you plan to lift/lower more than a small amount.
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| # ? Mar 17, 2013 03:32 |
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Buy a bronco. I love my 73 sport and my 93 OJ special. They've both been incredibly reliable, fun to drive (to me at least) and a removable hard top is cool as hell, it is a bitch to put on/off though.
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| # ? Mar 17, 2013 03:36 |
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some texas redneck posted:Ford introduced the Twin I-Beam suspension in 1965. The ford e-series still uses the twin I-beam.
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| # ? Mar 17, 2013 03:56 |
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I really want a '78-'79 Dodge Li'l Red Express truck, but they're rare and pricey. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEC4LVWzbNM Just look how badass they are though.
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| # ? Mar 17, 2013 04:06 |
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angryhampster posted:The 73-87 GM trucks are pretty solid. Most have a 305, 350, or 454. The 305 is a bit of a turd but I had an '84 and swapped in a 350 and enjoyed it. Plenty of torque to pull things and it was incredibly easy to work on. Parts are hilariously cheap and can be found ANYWHERE. And if you want that in a better-looking body, the '67-'72 GM trucks are almost completely mechanically identical, especially '71-'72. Any old pre-fuel-injection truck is going to be tough and simple in every sense of the word. The most luxury you're going to find in one is A/C, power steering, power brakes, power windows, and maybe power mirrors if you're getting really fancy. There's not a whole lot of difference in how they drive, so pick the one that you like the look of the best and find the best example that fits your budget.
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| # ? Mar 17, 2013 04:32 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Any old pre-fuel-injection truck is going to be tough and simple in every sense of the word. Pretty much. I had a '72 C10 for a few years and while it was slow as balls with a worn out 350, it never failed me. Except that time I ran out of gas.
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| # ? Mar 17, 2013 04:35 |
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My grandpa has a 71 ford with the 390 and a column shift manual 3 or 4 speed. For how ratty it is, it hauls a surprising amount of rear end. The motor got a fresh top end rebuild and a carb rebuild about three years ago, so that is probably why it runs so well. Based on his truck, I would be concerned about previous owners loving up the wiring harness. His is in such bad shape that a full harness replacement might be necessary. The other thing I would look for is rust on the beds. His has pinhole rust around the taillights, and the wheel arches. We used some knockoff POR style paint, and it has stopped the spread. He Got his for 1200 with previously mentioned electrical issues and top end oil seepage.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2013 00:13 |
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Everyone already knows but I'm always a fan of Internationals. You probably shouldn't be unless you want to play with a 70's truck stuck in hard mode. I miss this truck. 
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| # ? Mar 18, 2013 21:33 |
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Sometimes it's hard to justify something rare/cool like: and especially something badass like:  When you can buy something like:  For next to nothing. Of course the radiator leaks and the windshield is cracked - but they still make them. Not so much for my truck. From when I was actively searching, despite there being literally one on every block of my neighborhood, you can't get a '67-'72 Chevy for under 4k that runs. I got my dirty International for $1450, and I had to justify how much fun it was going to be, and the fact that I wanted to be just a little different. Edit: Comedy option : M714 Kaiser Jeep StormDrain fucked around with this message at Mar 19, 2013 around 04:17 |
| # ? Mar 19, 2013 04:05 |
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Actually why not a 70s Jeep Gladiator or J-10/J-20?
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| # ? Mar 19, 2013 09:58 |
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There is no reason not to own that Travelette right now.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2013 23:35 |
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There's IH, Datsun, and Hilux too. Datsun has to be my favorite pickup outfitter, though.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2013 04:17 |
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trouser chili posted:There is no reason not to own that Travelette right now. Two wheel drive? That was the Ops request but it was mine too. Although I do really like it and the posting just makes it look like junk even if it isn't. Which can work in your favor.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2013 21:12 |
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ZippySLC posted:Actually why not a 70s Jeep Gladiator or J-10/J-20? I love J-10/20's but try finding one that isn't hacked to pieces or 98% rust. Not sure how good parts availability are for them either. Same as the IH trucks. Parts are a bitch to find. One reason I sold my Landcruiser. Sure you can get engine parts for them still but anything else? Good luck...My FJ55 had drums at all 4 corners and a set of replacements was over $500..places that sell LC parts charge a stupid high premium for them as well. gently caress Specter Off Road. I guess the reason I'm looking for a Ford or Chevy is mainly parts are still easy and cheap to come by.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2013 22:37 |
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Fullsize Jeeps aren't bad. I have a Wagoneer. A lot of the AMC stuff is borrowed from the big 3. I think I have a GM steering column. Power steering pump crosses to just about everything. Alternator is Ford. Starter might be a Ford too with a different cone. My transmission is a GM. Transfer case is unique but new seal kits are available. I can't think of anything right now that there is absolutely no replacement for. If you find that one in a million J-truck with no rust or hacking, don't be shy.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 00:22 |
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jdfording posted:I love J-10/20's but try finding one that isn't hacked to pieces or 98% rust. Not sure how good parts availability are for them either. Same as the IH trucks. Parts are a bitch to find. One reason I sold my Landcruiser. Sure you can get engine parts for them still but anything else? Good luck...My FJ55 had drums at all 4 corners and a set of replacements was over $500..places that sell LC parts charge a stupid high premium for them as well. gently caress Specter Off Road. You do realize it's stupid easy and cheap to swap to four wheel discs on a Land Cruiser, right? I have the parts lying around somewhere because it's not worth the $15 postage to mail them to anyone who would want them. Also, I NEED that 3/4 IH. Oh, man, I didn't know they made the pickups in 4wd. That's a bad discovery. 70s vehicles, barring something REALLY rare, are not hard to find parts for if you're willing to be patient. Everyone always tells me how hard it is to find stuff for my FJ40 - no, it's easy, I'm just having you check on the off chance I could buy something locally and keep the money in town.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 02:10 |
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Advent Horizon posted:You do realize it's stupid easy and cheap to swap to four wheel discs on a Land Cruiser, right? I have the parts lying around somewhere because it's not worth the $15 postage to mail them to anyone who would want them. You absolutely can not find brake rotors for that 3/4 4wd IH pickup, or any other 1974 or 1975 IH 3/4 ton 4wd pickup. Seriously, they're all gone. Guy are swapping out knuckles and spindles to convert to Ford and Chevy cause there is nothing else to do. There are rumors of a Dodge van rotor that'll fit with some machining, but I've never figured out exactly what the part number is or what needs to be done to it. You also can't get rotors for the 1974 and 1975 2wd pickups, been through that with my 1974, which is even harder to deal with cause the front end is an IH-designed independent wishbone suspension. At least the 4wd have the benefit of using an otherwise standard Dana axle. I found one NOS rotor one time, guy wanted $400. trouser chili fucked around with this message at Mar 21, 2013 around 16:51 |
| # ? Mar 21, 2013 16:45 |
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If I'd known that years ago, I would have bought rotors off IHs at the junkyard, there were always some 4wd 70s ones floating around.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 16:53 |
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trouser chili posted:You absolutely can not find brake rotors for that 3/4 4wd IH pickup, or any other 1974 or 1975 IH 3/4 ton 4wd pickup. Seriously, they're all gone. Guy are swapping out knuckles and spindles to convert to Ford and Chevy cause there is nothing else to do. There are rumors of a Dodge van rotor that'll fit with some machining, but I've never figured out exactly what the part number is or what needs to be done to it. How about scouts? are they as much of a royal pain?
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 17:12 |
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Holy Crap, Denver area is a treasure trove of cheap Ramchargers. http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/3633562502.html  This is a $9000 truck in New England any day of the week.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 17:29 |
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DJ Commie posted:If I'd known that years ago, I would have bought rotors off IHs at the junkyard, there were always some 4wd 70s ones floating around. If it's 1/2 ton 4wd then they are common and in fact the same rotor as Scout II. It's the 3/4 ton and 1-ton 4wd and the 1/2 ton and heavy-half 2wd that are unobtainable. 1974 and 1975 only. Something like that 1969 Travelette is no problem.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 18:26 |
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Mighty Horse posted:This is a $9000 truck in New England any day of the week. New England is broken. You couldn't give that away in Nevada.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 18:38 |
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BrokenKnucklez posted:How about scouts? are they as much of a royal pain? Scouts are easy to find parts for as they're popular (relatively speaking). A lot of stuff can still be found at Autozone. What you can't find there is easy to get from an IH light-line dealer. Some exceptions are things like dashboard voltage regulators (used for certain gauges, but there are options here), windshield wiper motors are getting quite scarce, and strangely wiper blades can be a little tough. If you need sheet metal some of it can be hard to get, solid windshield surrounds are getting hard to find, lift-gates too. Vacuum advance modules for certain distributors (the Scout used like four different distributors) are basically only available from IH-only North I think. There are options here as well, including a (pricey) HEI distributor built by D.U.I. Gold boxes (ignition control module) are kinda tough to come by, but they are only used with one style of Holley distributor (which is what I have). Good gas pedal arms are hard to find, I had mine welded, they crack at the pivot and are made of weak-rear end poo poo steel. Standard Lock-O-Matic hubs are a throwaway once they have problems, switch to Warn manual hubs and be happy. The drivetrains are tough, the motors were made up throughout the 80's and maybe beyond a bit. You can still get all of parts for them and rebuilt kits if you are feeling adventurous. I wouldn't bother as good motors are cheap and plentiful. The transmission cases (or bellhousings) are IH unique, but the guts are standard Borg-Warner (t-18, t-19) or Chrysler (727 automatic). The axles are Dana (30 or 44 front, 44 rear), brake parts are easy to come by and inexpensive. The electricals are Delco, alternator is a 10si, A/C compressor is common York model. Really the biggest thing with any Scout is rust, everything else is easy.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 18:49 |
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Mr. Wiggles posted:New England is broken. You couldn't give that away in Nevada. Lies! If they where giving them away, we would be out collecting them.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 20:31 |
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| # ? May 22, 2013 09:41 |
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http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/3630218826.html this chevy breaks like a new truck! I laughed when I read that. Don't worry, it's some Crazy Californian posting a value pulled from their anus.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2013 20:38 |
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