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I have a 2007 Civic with 95k miles... bought it new. Went to start my car Friday and the battery was dead... battery's been in the car about 3 years (I live in Arizona)... it had been sitting a few days, so i think it was drained completely. I jump started it and drove it for about 20 minutes, then took it home. Tried starting it again about 2 hours later, same thing, had to jump it.... went to Autozone and bought a new battery. After installing it they tested the electrical system with their multimeter and said that the voltage regulator failed the test, and that I needed a new alternator. However -- I took this car to the dealer last month for routine maintenance, which includes a battery check (not full electric system check), and everything was fine. Additionally, after installing this new battery, i drove the car 6 hours to Las Vegas, let it sit for 2 days in a parking garage, and drove it back 6 hours with 0 issues (running the headlights/radio most of the time). Should I assume Autozone is full of horseshit, or should I take it back to the dealer for a more thorough electrical system test? A Honda alternator installed is $700, so if it's not absolutely necessary to have then I'd like to wait.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2013 01:47 |
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| # ? May 21, 2013 15:32 |
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fivetwo posted:I have a 2007 Civic with 95k miles... bought it new. Went to start my car Friday and the battery was dead... battery's been in the car about 3 years (I live in Arizona)... it had been sitting a few days, so i think it was drained completely. Alternators often don't show much signs of dying when they do go. Its more than likely the alternator. Have it tested again if you like, also check the connections to the alternator and your grounds. You could probably replaced the alternator yourself for under $120.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2013 01:52 |
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Adding to that, if you replace the alternator, I would suggest one from Napa. Definitely NOT from AutoZone or Pep Boys, unless you really like replacing them frequently. I'd also have a different parts store test your charging system for you; it's always possible the person at AutoZone didn't do something right. I'd get a multimeter and see what your voltages look like first though. At idle you want at least 13 with the headlights on, and at 2500 you don't want to see anything over about 14.8. Ideally you'll see about 13.8-14.2 at 2500. You can measure this at the battery terminals. If worse comes to worse, an alternator replacement is pretty straightforward. Like everything under the hood on a 06+ Civic, it's in a very cramped place, but it should be doable with basic hand tools, a 6 pack, and a bit of cussing.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2013 02:22 |
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If you did 12 hours of driving and the battery didn't die your alternator/regulator is likely just fine. They usually don't operate marginally, in my experience they work or they don't. Check the voltages yourself like STR said and if they're in line with that and the car keeps starting, you're fine.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2013 04:52 |
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If your car survived 12 hours of driving and didnt die your fine ( ive had an alternator take a dump on a 3 hour trip). Electrical problems are ghosts, and it could be one problem causing other devices to act as though they are malfunctioning. I had a guy say my ECU could be bad when all I needed to do was top up my battery with water.
Fraser CDN fucked around with this message at Mar 18, 2013 around 05:12 |
| # ? Mar 18, 2013 05:07 |
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Took to Honda dealer, they ran a full electronic systems check on their Honda machinery. Everything came out fine... battery cranking at 770 (rated at 500), alternator 14+V no load, 12+V under load. All tests passed. thanks guys!
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| # ? Mar 18, 2013 18:40 |
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fivetwo posted:alternator 14+V no load, 12+V under load.
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| # ? Mar 18, 2013 22:27 |
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Yeah unless that was at idle with EVERYTHING on, you shouldn't see it drop below 13. Define "load".
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| # ? Mar 19, 2013 02:07 |
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It should be putting out ~13.5-14v at idle and 14.1-14.6 at higher RPMs. Is your belt slipping/old and lovely?
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| # ? Mar 19, 2013 02:20 |
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stevobob posted:It should be putting out ~13.5-14v at idle and 14.1-14.6 at higher RPMs. Is your belt slipping/old and lovely? Dunno, dealer also inspected all belts and said they were fine. if they were lovely i assume dealer would love to tell me so they could charge me to replace them.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2013 03:22 |
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| # ? May 21, 2013 15:32 |
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InitialDave posted:"12-something volts" with the engine running doesn't sound right to me. If it's like the tester at my shop, it's got a carbon-pile load tester built in, simulates full draw like you'd see from a starter cranking. Obviously a bit beyond what you'll normally see running, but certainly makes for a thorough test of alternator output. We also use it to test batteries on their own. Ours also directly measures current draw with a clamp probe, as well as analyzing the ripple current from the diodes.
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| # ? Mar 19, 2013 05:58 |
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