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I would take a look at that distributor and (non-matching, who-knows-how-old) leads if the engine misfires. They're probably throwing sparks everywhere.
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Apr 26, 2013 08:07
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If your gas is that old I'm not surprised it's misbehaving. How much is in there? Siphon it out to feed the mower and put fresh in.
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Apr 26, 2013 13:11
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Cakefool posted:If your gas is that old I'm not surprised it's misbehaving. How much is in there? Siphon it out to feed the mower and put fresh in. Yes on siphoning so he can diagnose with good fuel. No on the mower. Small engines are typically even worse on crappy fuel.
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Apr 26, 2013 14:52
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Is there an overflow tank or something on this car you can watch while you rev the engine? If the rad cap is bypassing and not letting it build pressure you should see the overflow tank filling up. The tank's level has gone up a little. Plus the coolant around the cap and the condensate wafts on the top of the cap are pretty damning. There's a low point in the exhaust at the rear muffler. Definitely none on the exhaust manifold. Nothing actually seems blocked. It doesn't sound it and the motor is free revving. I think cats started in '88. It just as a large muffler up back and some kind of cherry bomb looking one up front that looks like the muffler or baffle I used to run on thunderbirds for my beetle. Cakefool posted:If your gas is that old I'm not surprised it's misbehaving. How much is in there? Siphon it out to feed the mower and put fresh in. Not a bad idea. I think the PO put about 5L in, but the gauge reads 1/2 tank. He thought it was out of fuel but it wasn't. It's just the gauge needs a light tap. Sorry Motronic, I probably will use the fuel in the mowers. Between mowers built in the '50s to '70s and the oil burning Tecumseh with no compression I'm sure they can handle it. Besides I've been desperate for mower fuel for months. Medical expenses have been and unfortunately will continue to keep me cleaned out for a while longer. steady posted:I would take a look at that distributor and (non-matching, who-knows-how-old) leads if the engine misfires. They're probably throwing sparks everywhere. The leads aren't arcing but I am a little suspicious of them. I have a set of Bosch inductive carbon leads that are in good condition I got from a garage sale a while back. I should at least be able to use the spark plug leads to test with. The longass coil cable on the other hand I can't do anything about. It's also possible the condenser is shot. I have no spares though. I've stripped and used all the working ones already from spare distributors. One last item I'm suspicious of are the spark plugs. Good condition but fouled really badly. There are many reasons this could have happened and they aren't worth replacing until I've addressed all the other reasons. The points and timing were badly off which I fixed. The timing chain was probably as sloppy as hell. I did that. The valves still need adjusting but I'm not touching them until I get a rocker cover gasket. The secondary on the carburettor was flapping. I addressed that at least for now. The idle needs readjusting but I'm not touching that until the valves are adjusted. The stock coil may have been a bit weak. The GT40 is a good coil though and the burning crap off smell coming from the exhaust after installing it was encouraging. I'll check the plug later today. Unfortunately I can't take it for a run so some fouling is inevitable, but weak spark and poor tuning are never good for an engine. I'm so relieved the radiator seems to be okay-ish. I think there's a place in the next town that can do radiator repairs though if I get desperate. I had planned to just drop a commodore radiator in instead but then I realised a couple of things. It would mean relocating the horns from their stock position next to the radiator where they have a couple of nice round cutouts, and the Commodore radiator may occlude the crank from getting to the crankshaft. Interesting fact. The Niva radiator has a circular hole in the bottom tank for the crank to pass through.
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Apr 26, 2013 23:03
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General_Failure posted:Sorry Motronic, I probably will use the fuel in the mowers. Between mowers built in the '50s to '70s and the oil burning Tecumseh with no compression I'm sure they can handle it. Hey, if they run on it well enough to do their job go for it. My only caution was that I've had more people bring me small engined stuff that they couldn't make run properly that I've "repaired" by putting fresh fuel in them than I can count. I used to put fuel like this in my pickup a couple gallons at a time after each fill up and the 4.6 didn't seem to mind it at all. Not sure I'll try that with the rover (which runs like rear end on anything other than premium). It will probably go in the Porsche now that the pickup is gone.
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Apr 27, 2013 01:19
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Motronic posted:Hey, if they run on it well enough to do their job go for it. My only caution was that I've had more people bring me small engined stuff that they couldn't make run properly that I've "repaired" by putting fresh fuel in them than I can count. I used to put fuel like this in my pickup a couple gallons at a time after each fill up and the 4.6 didn't seem to mind it at all. Not sure I'll try that with the rover (which runs like rear end on anything other than premium). It will probably go in the Porsche now that the pickup is gone. The Tecumseh can run happily on a roughly 8:1 mix of diesel and petrol so it gets fed all the poo poo fuel I have around, and rotten diesel. It's a lovely, lovely mower and I'm pretty sure it has some nasty crank walk or something going on but the stupid thing won't die. Back to normal programming. I pulled the #3 plug again. The one I took a photo of. It hasn't been run today. The plug was wet this time. With fuel that is as near as I can tell. It smelled like it. I guess it was borderline. I substituted one of the Bosch leads from the shed. It's a little better I think. A bit hard to tell. It'll do for now. It needs the things I listed before including a new set of leads so it's really just pointless busywork if I pursue it too far at this point. The tape player seems to work. That should do me for now.  I fixed the exhaust too. As we can see in this picture the exhaust is pressing against the bumper. It was insulated from it by a square of carpet and what seemed to be a small piece of inner tube rubber, and all held in place by what I believe to be an undone wire curtain ring.  The culprit was a loose hose clamp. 5 minute fix. I also shifted the clamp a little because I wasn't convinced it was engaging the inner pipe as well as it should be.  This of course fixed the angle of the tailpipe. No surprised were to be had.  e: I forgot to say that as I was moving the exhaust and re-seating it, droplets of water ran out of the bottom side of the pipe. I really do think that muffler is full of water for some reason.
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Apr 27, 2013 01:46
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General_Failure posted:The Tecumseh can run happily on a roughly 8:1 mix of diesel and petrol so it gets fed all the poo poo fuel I have around, and rotten diesel. It's a lovely, lovely mower and I'm pretty sure it has some nasty crank walk or something going on but the stupid thing won't die. Sorry, bud. You started mower chat.  I can't kill this. I drinks more 30 weight than gasoline at this point. I have told myself I was going to pull it apart and at least lap the valves back in for about 4 years now. But it just keeps running. Just fired it up for the first time this year today (too lazy to drag it back out side for a proper picture and it's dark anyway) and it went on the first pull. I was even nice enough to grease it (and change the oil and filter) before I got it going. It probably didn't matter. I don't think any of it matters anymore. This was a $4-5k mower that I bought once it got used up by a landscaper (for $300). That same $300 would hove bought me some crappy consumer mower that would have needed some more maintenance and parts by now, and even the day I bought it wouldn't cut as well as this thing. There's also no way it would have had a 52" deck at that price. Sorry for the derail. I'm spergy.
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Apr 27, 2013 02:08
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Nice horn button (?). The exhaust is probably just full of trapped condensation from sitting a long time. Driving it in anger or reviving it out as mentioned usually fixed it for me, but sometimes it takes a while to get out.
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Apr 27, 2013 07:57
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CharlesM posted:Nice horn button (?). The exhaust is probably just full of trapped condensation from sitting a long time. Driving it in anger or reviving it out as mentioned usually fixed it for me, but sometimes it takes a while to get out. I'm hoping that will do the job. Can't drive it anywhere but maybe revving will do it. I was trying to strategically position it on the lump in the back yard to sort out the reversed top on the right rear shock and wasn't thinking when I hopped out to look at the suspension extension. I got a face full of spattered exhaust water. Yum. The rear shocks are a bigger job than I'd planned. At least it's still a relatively small job I guess. Four bolts and some swearing. I'll copypaste from my post on the Niva forum. The top of the right shock was around the wrong way which I set out to fix in the first place. As I was doing that I noticed that the left bottom bolt had a whole pile of threads sticking out on the nut side but the right didn't. in fact the nut was a few threads shy of total engagement. I studied it for a bit and realised that the right side had two of those metal spacer donuts. On the left it had none at all. It had been padded out with an array of washers. Also on the right one of the metal donuts was welded to the bracket. Obviously the left one wasn't because it was chilling on the right bolt with the welded on one. The thread on the top right bolt is also damaged but looks usable. I've never done shock work before but it seems pretty straightforward. It seems everything I touch on this car is corrective work on someone's stuff-up. The horn button upsets me to no end. It's the headlight washer / wiper button. I plan on putting the horn back in its rightful place, getting the headlight wiper arms and restoring that to its former glory. Motronic, that's a hell of a mower. You did really well to get that. Should be as simple as anything to fix too. Don't let it die. It's a keeper! Also make sure you watch your fingers. That thing is an OH&S nightmare.
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Apr 27, 2013 08:25
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Motronic posted:Hey, if they run on it well enough to do their job go for it. My only caution was that I've had more people bring me small engined stuff that they couldn't make run properly that I've "repaired" by putting fresh fuel in them than I can count.
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Apr 27, 2013 13:35
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Engines built in the time of 2 star petrol pretty much run on wet coal dust, two out of three times.
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Apr 27, 2013 22:54
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Flatheads Forever. I'm kinda surprised that this Russian Farmgirl isn't a flathead.
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Apr 27, 2013 23:13
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Cakefool posted:Engines built in the time of 2 star petrol pretty much run on wet coal dust, two out of three times. That is so true. I've ran old mowers on anything I've found that was liquid and flammable. IIRC it was Briggs and Stratton engines that had instructions on how to run them on diesel. Add a second head gasket and start them on petrol. InterceptorV8 posted:Flatheads Forever. Nope. It's a Fiat based SOHC engine. Really I have to say the tech in it is impressive considering its purpose. Major minor update. The less said about it the better. But I did get the rear shocks all sorted. What a huge pain in the arse. Everything was wrong. I also had to try to get the bolts back into the lower shock bushings. What a poo poo of a job. The bolts had a thick bit where the bushings sit, but no taper, no bevel, no nothing on the edge. Sharp right angle. But everything is back more or less the way I think it should be now. One of the top bolts or possibly the nut feels dangerously close to stripping. The shocks vomited bubbly smegma when I pressed the button to adjust them. I set them both hard. I hope that wasn't a mistake. From what I understand Koni reds are reasonably soft shocks. They both still work fine at least. What gets me is the previous owner kept saying he had all the suspension bushings replaced. I even found an unused one in the glovebox. The ones installed sure don't look like they were replaced any time in the last couple of decades, unless they are super lovely rubber. I almost feel like it's related to all the messed up rear shocks. Perhaps the "mechanic" pulled poo poo off, couldn't do it, put it back together and gave the owner the spare bushing and said it was done. The weird thing about the spare is it's the sort that tapers in the middle, but one of the ends has been whittled a little. Perhaps it was to remove casting flash, or perhaps it was in an attempt to make it fit. Next up, perhaps I'll tackle the steering or wipers.
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Apr 28, 2013 01:04
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Looks like I tackled the wipers. Sooo drat easy to remove the whole assembly. About 5 minutes but part of that was me not trying to lose a bolt into oblivion which replaced a captive bolt at some point. As I suspected it was a cuple of broken tack welds.  The shaft base got welded in place. The welds were ugly so I didn't take photos. My mask is broken and flopping on the visor, and I had the shakes. They flowed alright but weren't pretty. Anyway they are all in and the wipers now cover their full range, which is pretty poo poo. It took me a while to get the wipers on roughly the right spline. Fun fact. The wipers are single speed plus intermittent. I'm surprised and a little worried about that. The rear washer also got fixed. The hose was snapped where it bridges from the roof to the hatch. I removed the awful old electrical tape binding the hose and wires, shoved a garden irrigation joiner barb fitting in and taped it back up. The only hose I could get was 3 and 6mm. I needed 4mm. That's why I only joined it today. This is good. The wipers were troubling me. I've also paid for the radiator cap and rocker cover gasket from a U.K. eBay shop. They should find me in a week or two. Wish I'd thought to grab a thermostat too. Oh well  What else... I found out the distributor is one of those Australian model things. More barebones than even the Russians got. It's an extremely basic mechanical advance distributor. The mechanical advance is contained inside the rotor. that kind of blew my mind! I oiled the wick and put oil in the special distributor shaft oiling orifice protruding from the side of the distributor. I think that's about it for today.
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May 1, 2013 08:25
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Self reply! Status update update *Quarter window catches re-adhered. *Something done with the steering wheel (already something in the works) *Fix the steering slop. * *Stop leak on rear hatch. Probably a new rubber because the old one is folded up top. *Cooling system / radiator. Hoses are original. Radiator is scary. Thermo fans would be nice. *Re-hang passenger door. *New tyres. *Get spare wheel. *New cluster dimmer. * *Total fluid change. *Some rust repairs later on. *Adjust valves. I still need to buy a fresh rocker cover gasket. *Do something with towing wiring plug. Its back is exposed and facing up. * * *Procure and reinstall headlight wiper arms. *Get horn working on steering wheel again. * *Check and probably rewire driving lights. (currently n/c from mistrust of current wiring)
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May 1, 2013 08:30
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Another picture-less minor update. Wow! Today after taking my son for a drive around the yard enough to sort of warm the engine up I decided to tackle its crap idle. I didn't get too far but the results were interesting. The manifold vacuum is fine. I half expected to see it wandering. I mean it did, but it was proportional to the revs, and the overall vacuum was good. So it's not a vacuum leak that I can see. Although I knew I was introducing problems for myself I borrowed a vacuum line to do the test. I stole the line which goes to what I believe is an electronically operated vacuum valve for the EGR. This caused it to not do whatever it does at idle, and I mis-set the idle accordingly. Once I realised my mistake and knew the vacuum gauge result already I plugged it back in and readjusted. Or at least tried to. the Mixture screw. It does NOTHING! Or very little anyway. Flashbacks to the VW right there. There is some butterfly shaft leakage but I've seen worse. starting fluid causes a minor reaction. What I'd call within limits. In all honesty I don't understand EGR systems. But the valve seems to work at least. I can't say as to whether the electronic thingy is doing what it should. I tested the compression too. Results are to be taken with a grain of salt as I haven't adjusted the valves yet. #1: 160 #2: 168 #3: 175 #4: 172 Higher than I was expecting. #3 being the highest is no surprise to me as it seems to have a fouling issue. I'm going to change the plugs to a set of NGK BP5ES when I get the chance and manage to track a set down. Still can't get it to idle evenly. My current prime suspect is an intermittent firing issue on #3. Above idle it is pretty smooth. The idle circuit being apparently screwed wouldn't be helping anything either. My knockoff JB welded radiator cap is holding. I'll be so glad when the new one arrives. It's still spitting water like a bitch. The bogging and coughing up water seem related. Again could be bad fuel but I can't find out yet. Next week I can. Before that I have to pay for the steering wheel.
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May 4, 2013 01:45
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I tried to stick the quarter window catches back on. Yay!  Boo! I messed up the epoxy mix somehow. Over a day later this side was still like that clear craft glue. I retried it yesterday evening. Later today I'll close the catch and see if it sticks. I removed all the rotted rubber straps to hold the absent spare and the also absent suicide jack in place. Looks a little neater now.  Bodged radiator cap and a shot of the "coolant". The design of the cap says it's original to me. Hopefully next week its replacement will arrive.  The worklight plug. I can't find a light anywhere or even what the plug looks like. I imagine a hybrid of a cigarette lighter plug and a banana connector.  I wound up some of the masses of disconnected wire. You may recognize the red wire from cabin shots. Added bonus was finding a wiring connector in the console. I looked it up and as near as I can tell it's for a rear fog lamp. I wonder where it terminates.  I finally took a shot of the front suspension. The diff is bolted to the engine. There are shielded CV shaft on either side of it. In the middle is the skid plate and above it for lack of a better word is the tinware.  One of the monstrous dual circuit calipers.  Why the horn is so loud, with bonus deprecated driving light wiring.  Beyond that I haven't done a whole lot besides stare at the water coming out of the exhaust and repeatedly check fluids trying to figure out what's going on. No oil in the coolant. No coolant in the oil. No pressurized cooling system. No steam cleaned plugs. No coolant smell in the exhaust. If it is waterlogged fuel all I can think is someone came along with a watering can and gave it a good drink. So much water coughing, spraying and dribbling out the exhaust. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 22:22 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 22:19
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Honestly I'd forget about the spitting water until you get it regged & thrash it up to temp on the roads with new fuel. I'm intrigued by the work light though - so did it basically come with an inspection lamp & socket in the engine bay? That's awesome & I might install something similar.
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May 5, 2013 22:42
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Cakefool posted:Honestly I'd forget about the spitting water until you get it regged & thrash it up to temp on the roads with new fuel. I don't think it'd be registerable with the water coming out. I mean a complete HG kit is something like $50 give or take but if that isn't broke I don't want to fix it. Especially with the compression reading I got, which I think I can pin partially on carbon buildup but still it's pretty good. Yeah the inspection lamp was a part of the stock toolkit. That plug is on the firewall, so it isn't an artsy photograph. In truth one of those cheap LED two mode torches with the magnet and hook would probably serve about as well. I even have a dynamo charged LED torch keyring. But I would really like a plug in worklight. Even just the plug and then I could put a newer rubberized LED one on the end. lots of light and not much current. I have an operation manual here. It has the original tool list. Sloppy formatting is all mine. AVTOVAZ posted:Tool bag x1 There should be 22 items there. I didn't format it correctly though. I believe most of these were put in the tool bag in the middle of the spare under the bonnet. I never had an interest in rebuilding a toolkit for a car in the past. not even my VWs, but even using workalikes I'd love to put together a set for this. How many cars come with all the tools needed to perform most work?
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May 5, 2013 23:01
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Can you jack the front way up or put it on ramps or something to see how much water drains out then start it? Also combination wheel wrench x8 bothers me. 8 inch 4 way wheel brace? Too small. 8x combination spanners? Not wheel specific. 8 way wheel brace? Can't see how that would work.
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May 6, 2013 00:11
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Cakefool posted:Can you jack the front way up or put it on ramps or something to see how much water drains out then start it? I could pull The tail section of the exhaust off. After all that's why the tailpipe was pressing against the rear bumper when I got it. The pipe clamp wasn't on as well as it could have been. A little ran out when I re-seated it but realistically I would have been met with a deluge if it were all stored up in there. The x8 is my delimiting. There was a quantity field. So it is eight combination wheel wrenches. I don't know what that means. Strangely I've seen someone's blog or website or something where they speculated over and researched what should have been in an OE toolkit. Kind of weird because it's right there in the operation manual which I have two of. They aren't exactly rare. I've been hard at work on another aspect of the Niva today. More information when I see some positive progress. I'm trying to avoid lots of photos featuring my middle finger. It's yet another PO WTF situation.
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May 6, 2013 01:47
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I did a few things. I tried to re-adhere the passenger quarter window latch again. Failed again. This time it separated from the metal. I might rough it up a bit more before I try again. So, I tried fixing this bent seat rail.  I tried bashing it. Nothing. I tried clamping it. Possibly nothing. If so, not much.  Here it has a C clamp distorting under stress, a G clamp also distorting under stress, and a pair of vice grips that took both hands and a lot of straining to do up. Perhaps it made a small difference.  After that I just used a hardwood drift and beat the poo poo out of the back and front of the rail to slowly move the seat back and forth to try and free it up a bit. It worked a little I guess. There's also a cracked crossmember on the seat base that allows it to flex. Another day, perhaps. In the midst of all this one of the metal rollers and the ball bearings which it holds captive escaped. I stuffed them back in as best I could, but the bent rail meant when the seat was moved forward the roller would run for freedom. The seat can't come off because I can't quite move it forward enough to undo the front screws. So there it stays for now. What else. I swapped the wipers so the floppy one was on the passenger side. The pin retainer on the arm has worn through. I left it to idle for ages. Mostly to try to burn through the fuel. I confirmed two suspicions. My radiator cap bodge job didn't work. There was another small rust hole. It still kind of leaked anyway. But at least it worked well enough for coolant to go into the header tank instead of everywhere. My second suspicion is that something needs to be done about the cooling system. My prime suspect is the shroud-less mechanical fan. Idling it got to 100*C and sat there because of the water happily simmering away. This was after the best part of an hour of idling though. Maybe more, maybe less. I'm not sure. When I killed the engine after a nice boiling bubblefest in the header tank it sucked it back in like a good cooling system. The whole time the exhaust water spitting didn't change much. Perhaps a little less and if there was water vapour it wasn't visible. I really am leaning toward poo poo fuel. I also tested the UHF CB I picked up at the garage sale. Applying power the channel indicator lit up and when I turned up the volume and turned down the squelch there was nice healthy static. The trouble is though it's so huge I don't know where to put it. It's DIN sized. Replacing the radio with it crossed my mind but I want to keep a stereo.
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May 6, 2013 05:50
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What are you using to attach the window latches? If you aren't already you need a uv-curing for-glass adhesive, as well as cleaning the everloving hell out of both surfaces. Smooth is better than roughed up with the correct adhesive. There's a company that imports new nivas to the UK, I'm going to email them and see if they'll share the contents of the toolbag. Eight wheel wrenches sounds wrong, unless they double as hammers 
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May 6, 2013 08:08
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Maybe it's in case 7 of them are lost to inferior Soviet metallurgy.
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May 6, 2013 08:14
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Fucknag posted:Maybe it's in case 7 of them are lost to inferior Soviet metallurgy. The Russian solution to "metal will rust" is typically "make it thicker so rusting takes longer" http://www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter/NivaMainPage.htm If you haven't seen this already it seems to have a bunch of great resources.
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May 6, 2013 08:29
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Cakefool posted:What are you using to attach the window latches? If you aren't already you need a uv-curing for-glass adhesive, as well as cleaning the everloving hell out of both surfaces. Smooth is better than roughed up with the correct adhesive. Honestly? Araldite. I know it's the wrong tool for the job but it was at hand and quarter windows don't seal right unless the latch is working. It's not hard to scrape off with a blade and it stops water getting in for now. Adhering the latches to the glass is a dumb idea and I don't know why they did it. Especially when the window frame seems to be even thicker than the panels. Yeah the 8 is a bit weird to me too. It's a hell of a typo otherwise. Cakefool posted:The Russian solution to "metal will rust" is typically "make it thicker so rusting takes longer" That's a perfectly valid strategy. Yes that is a great resource. There's a page that's been open in my browser for a while to remind me to do the oil for the diffs / TC / transmission. Thing is it's something I'm not touching with my son around. Fucknag posted:Maybe it's in case 7 of them are lost to inferior Soviet metallurgy. Meh. Seen worse. Their paint though is about on par with Mitsubishi for terribleness.
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May 6, 2013 08:51
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General_Failure posted:
Would you look at that! Not 1 but 2 smiley faces. When even a car has such an upbeat attitude, you can't feel depressed thinking about all the things you need to fix. I never understood Lada's decision to copy Fiat's idea of sticking the tyre in the engine bay. A thing under pressure sitting next to a hot engine seem like a design brain-fart to me.
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May 6, 2013 12:59
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Just read some of that page and it seems the headlight wipers only work if the headlights are on.
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May 6, 2013 14:35
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General_Failure posted:There's a page that's been open in my browser for a while to remind me to do the oil for the diffs / TC / transmission. Thing is it's something I'm not touching with my son around. How come? He one of those kids that'll be halfway out in the street if you take your eyes off him for five seconds or one of those that are likely to try and drink the used diff oil? steady posted:I never understood Lada's decision to copy Fiat's idea of sticking the tyre in the engine bay. A thing under pressure sitting next to a hot engine seem like a design brain-fart to me. Well, Renault, Peugeot and Citroen (and others, but these are the ones I know besides FIAT) did this for over twenty years and I can't really recall seeing anyone having problems because of it. Having the spare in a cradle underneath the rear of the vehicle, now *that* is lovely design and something that'll make you wish a slow and painful death to people when you try to loosen rusty bolts to get to the tyre thats been sitting there for 15 years. Add crawling around under your car in snow and salt, and it gets even better!
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May 6, 2013 15:28
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Spare fell out from under my 206 on the highway due to those lovely wire cages & the bloke riding my bumper got it full force into his radiator, intercooler, ac condenser, sump. Hilarious outcome of that was he tried to sure me for 6 months of hire car while his was being fixed.
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May 6, 2013 18:28
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Well, Renault, Peugeot and Citroen (and others, but these are the ones I know besides FIAT) did this for over twenty years and I can't really recall seeing anyone having problems because of it. Having the spare in a cradle underneath the rear of the vehicle, now *that* is lovely design and something that'll make you wish a slow and painful death to people when you try to loosen rusty bolts to get to the tyre thats been sitting there for 15 years. Add crawling around under your car in snow and salt, and it gets even better! The weirdest spare tire mechanism I've seen so far is on the "Stow N Go" Caravans, you have to pull up a plug on the centre console and then use a special threaded rod to reach into a hole in the floorboard to crank and lower the spare tire on a little elevator. While testing the mechanism on a newly bought '05 last summer it came out with about thirty pounds of gravel, a dessicated spare tire that wouldn't bead and a thick layer of road salt that must've attracted nearby deer. My friend (who bought the van) remarked about how lucky we were that the mechanism worked at all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmWcpkqUurg
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May 6, 2013 20:07
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kastein posted:Just read some of that page and it seems the headlight wipers only work if the headlights are on. ...I actually knew that but forgot. Thanks for the reminder. Yesterday wasn't my finest day. An onlooker would have probably thought I was drunk or something. Nidhg00670000 posted:How come? He one of those kids that'll be halfway out in the street if you take your eyes off him for five seconds or one of those that are likely to try and drink the used diff oil? He's a smart boy, and very "helpful". The diffs wouldn't be so bad, but I'm going to pull the shifter to do the transmission fill. That sort of situation is one where things get tricky. As weird as it sounds I want to do it in the order of transmission, TC, then diffs. I suppose he does have a habit of taking off at random and wanting to play with strange fluids too which doesn't help. I'm not overly worried about the spare running free. I don't have one. besides I doubt it would fit in the engine bay even if it did have one. Even if it did, it'd be physically impossible for it to escape. A tyre in the engine bay isn't totally terrible. Not great but if your engine bay is seeing temperatures hot enough to damage it there may be some problems.
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May 6, 2013 23:58
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220F or so can't be much worse than the tire sees on the road. Aussie tarmac is probably (extra) hot as gently caress in the summer, and let's not forget that tires heat up pretty well just from rolling with a load on them.
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May 7, 2013 00:04
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Splizwarf posted:220F or so can't be much worse than the tire sees on the road. Aussie tarmac is probably (extra) hot as gently caress in the summer, and let's not forget that tires heat up pretty well just from rolling with a load on them. memories. I remember being a kid and the tyres on my dad's car melting during a drive. possibly retreads but still. Some people put a toolbox where the tyre went.
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May 7, 2013 04:03
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General_Failure posted:memories. I remember being a kid and the tyres on my dad's car melting during a drive. possibly retreads but still. Some people put a toolbox where the tyre went. "Broken down again eh?" 'Deploys tool cabinet and replaces gearbox bearings in supermarket carpark'
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May 7, 2013 11:30
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Cakefool posted:"Broken down again eh?" 'Deploys tool cabinet and replaces gearbox bearings in supermarket carpark' He says to the person that has different sized toolboxes and equipment lists for different trips. The more I know about technology the less I trust it. Thanks for reminding me that my cold chisel has fallen off my mental list, just in case I need to liberate a welded bearing or something. Last time that poo poo happened it took me three days to recover the car (Not the Fairlane), multiple long trips to Melbourne and an organizational nightmare. It poo poo out one of its front wheel bearings outside Fawkner police station. I think I ended up having to drive it to Preston like that. The mechanic spent a very long time pounding the poo poo out of the race welded to the spindle. All the rollers were running free inside the rim too. Lovely. I'm rambling again. I was told I'm having my midlife crisis and that's why I bought the Niva. All I said was it's a pretty crappy midlife crisis then. I don't think a $600 car really qualifies. So anyway... I bought a roll of 15A wire today. Yellow insulator. very pretty. Just shy of $20 but that's not too bad these days. Now I can do the driving light wiring, completely removing the pre-existing wiring of course. Besides being incomplete it sucked. Perhaps I may consider starting on the thermo fan wiring too. I don't know. I still don't know whether to use the 12" (I think) suck fan from the Magna with some mods, or use the 10" low profile, and later add a second when I get one in blow configuration. I chose not to buy the rear view mirror adhesive today. It's in a little twist off topped tube and cost $15. I'll wait until both catches drop off. Instead I spent a little less on a rectangle trailer wiring plug. Can't do much until the steering wheel, the rocker cover gasket and the radiator cap arrive. Did the groceries today but forgot to buy another container of lovely premix coolant. I was going to do a flush and put more poo poo coolant in until I can get a thermostat and hoses. Then it'd get another flush and some nice coolant.
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May 7, 2013 12:55
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Ridiculous Dodge Caravan Spare Tire Video That has go to be the most ridiculous location I've ever seen to store a spare tire. You drive a Caravan so that means it is likely filled with screaming kids and a wife who's upset because you're going to be late getting to Disney World with this flat tire. So now you have to figure out this Rube Goldberg spare tire mechanism with 3 screaming kids and a wife who's emotions flip flop every 30 seconds, meanwhile your flat tire is in the grass on a road shoulder that slopes JUST enough to not give you enough room to retrieve the spare from under it. Bravo, engineers. Now, if that spare tire system was on a work van or a pickup, no biggie. Chalk it up to more storage space. To perform that kind of engineering fuckup on something that is designed to carry several (potentially) bitchy kids? It's almost as if those engineers who designed it were single without kids and it's their way of making minivans more hated than they already are.
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May 7, 2013 15:05
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General_Failure posted:
If I could find happy, wacky cars like the Niva here in the US for $600, I'd have midlife crises all the time!
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May 7, 2013 15:07
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Team140 posted:That has go to be the most ridiculous location I've ever seen to store a spare tire. You drive a Caravan so that means it is likely filled with screaming kids and a wife who's upset because you're going to be late getting to Disney World with this flat tire. So now you have to figure out this Rube Goldberg spare tire mechanism with 3 screaming kids and a wife who's emotions flip flop every 30 seconds, meanwhile your flat tire is in the grass on a road shoulder that slopes JUST enough to not give you enough room to retrieve the spare from under it. Bravo, engineers. I'd almost rather have a can of fix-a-flat than try to take that thing out on the side of the road, with an actual flat.
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May 7, 2013 17:33
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Team140 posted:[...] To be fair, they went back and revised it, apparently... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPKChvFP670 It still looks pretty frustrating. On a non-"Stow N Go" model it's under the back end where God and Queen intended.
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May 7, 2013 17:35
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