|
Coronet XX posted:Gonna be watching this thread like a hawk. I grew up around 60s Mopars - my dad had a '67 Coronet that he worked on all the time when I was little (kinda where my username came from). This is 3-year-old me and my dad back in '89, up in Prince George, recently after he painted primer grey. your dad is lookin hella  in this shot
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2013 02:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 21:16 |
|
|
Geez, how come I didn't see this the first time around? Slung Blade this looks like a hell of a neat project - the car is in surprisingly good shape considering where its been all its life.
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2013 02:27
|
|
|
Any updates on this? Would love to see any progress.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 19:44
|
|
|
Yeah I would hate to see this thread go to archives. Updates!
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 23:24
|
|
|
Someday I will own a boxy late 60's MOPAR. Gotta love those "Hurricane Carter" bowtie tail lights.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2013 06:35
|
|
|
Thanks for the replies everyone. Also, I'm terribly sorry for the lack of updates. Buying the car completely tapped out my financial reserve, and I've spent the last couple months rebuilding that. I'm not about to go into a massive amount of debt for the car, as much as I would like to have it legal and running sooner. I'm nearly there, soon I can put in my parts order and begin work. There are a couple of little things that I could do, but you guys have seen how I work on stuff, once I start I don't ever want to stop. Lack of parts would kill my project morale if I got too far ahead of my ability to finance it. Besides, I've been insanely busy this summer anyway, come the fall I'll have more time once the lawn dies and the summer blacksmithing shows are done. Not to worry!
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2013 00:49
|
|
|
Things are definitely progressing. It's gonna be good, guys.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2013 19:26
|
|
|
First round of parts ordered. I bought a whole set of brake conversion kits from Summit, discs all around, and a new master cylinder. But, in order to ship to Canada, Summit wanted an extra 400 bucks. UPS or whoever would probably charge an extra 2-300 on top of that as a bullshit 'brokerage' fee. gently caress. That. Time for a road trip! My sister and I hopped in my little hyundai and bombed on down to Sweetgrass Montana and the shipping outlet located there, shipping to this warehouse was free! Had to get out and stretch in Lethbridge. They've got an awesome park down there.   Sis managed to capture a train going over the high level bridge as we were leaving town.  We also stopped at Head Smashed In Buffalo jump. Native people from this area used to drive buffalo over the cliffs to their doom. Incredibly clever way of harvesting a lot of meat all at once. Incredibly scenic too.    We avoided the interpretive walk though...  Nice sunset on the way back home.  Annnd, the reason we went down there: PARTS Parts, like WHEELS  And sexy sexy brakes!  Por-15 products in stupid quantities.  Rear brakes.  The rest of the front brakes.  Even came with new wheel studs, that's convenient considering Canadian Tire stripped a bunch of the existing ones not realizing they're reverse threaded on one side of the car.  And a new, proper master cylinder and reservoir.  So, finally some progress. Things to get in the short term: -LSD suregrip insert for the diff, since I'm going to be taking the axles out to get the brakes on anyway, may as well do it when it's all apart. New bearings for the same reason. -Axle seals and that crush sleeve thing Kastein talked about. -Lugs for the new studs and wheels. -Tires. -Maybe some ball joints for the front? -Probably an automotive hydraulic press or something.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 03:44
|
|
|
Love those wheels. Also, dual-piston calipers? Nice.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 03:54
|
|
|
Echoing the wheels sentiment, those are gorgeous. I'm so, so sorry you had to drive down into Montana though. If I ever have to see that flat wasteland again, it'll be too soon. (Northen Montana, west to east... ugh.)
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 04:30
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Love those wheels. Also, dual-piston calipers? Nice. 4pots up front, 2pots in the back. I forget what pads and rotors it's compatible with. That master cylinder is honestly the biggest one I have ever seen.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 04:54
|
|
|
I guess you do have a thread over here  . I hope to be picking up some F-body brakes for my Nova in the near future. I'd forgotten how much fun drum brakes are when I went to pick it up.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 14:06
|
|
|
Stay out of the archives, thread! You're a new thread about an old, old car. Did you get bored enough over the holidays to look into the wiring yet? I might also have a battery hold-down lying around here somewhere that we could fab a bracket up for.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2013 21:06
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Stay out of the archives, thread! You're a new thread about an old, old car. It's been minus loving 30c out there man, and I've been stuck inside doing my holiday baking and trying to keep the pipes from freezing. Good news is: I have been accumulating money like a bastard and will be ready to do this up right soon enough.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2013 22:39
|
|
|
Money accumulating nicely, I hope?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 04:15
|
|
|
I've been bouncing ideas off him for everything, but I dunno if there's anything more concrete right now than "let's go visit a [domestic] swap meet for once in our lives." I imagine it will be like a VW swap meet except with fewer transvestites. It's also still minus 30 Celsius. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Mar 6, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 04:35
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:It's also still minus 30 Celsius. No lie, they brought in a bulldozer to move snow out of the ditches in town. Gonna be some major snowmelt flooding come spring time unless we get some serious chinook evaporation going on soon. It's supposed to be +15C this weekend though, so who knows?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2014 05:39
|
|
|
Ok, so it turned out that it was pretty nice last weekend, but my garage floor was still like -40c. So nothing got done. But hey, today something did! Up in the air.  Man I had a bitch of a time getting that fuckin e-brake retaining clip out of the backing plate. There's an awful lot of oil in the tube, everything I've read says that the bearings are lubricated with grease only, the gear oil's not supposed to get to them. I dunno, maybe I have been misinformed.  The beginning of what I am sure will be an absolutely gigantic garbage pile. It occurs to me that I had absolutely no idea how to take apart drum brakes.  Axle out! Took this picture to try and count the splines.  Bearings look ok at a glance. Doesn't matter, getting new ones soon. Fuckin dirty back there on the plate, not too bad for its' age though I guess.  Hmm.  The gently caress kind of marking is this?  Big X on the side of casting, also 741 clearly visible. So, this is the 1-3/8ths small stem pinion, the weakest of the three possible options when it comes to 8.75s, however, it's fairly easy to get a better carrier if I want to. We'll see.  I need a floor jack that can lift this thing higher. I can't get the car high enough to slip under there to take the carrier section out yet. Now I just need to figure out what kind of limited slip insert to put in there...
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 04:46
|
|
|
Awesome bro, great to see progress, this is my favorite project in AI!
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 05:19
|
|
|
Diff oil in the axle tubes is an obvious sign that the inner axle shaft seals have failed. You'll have to remove the 3rd member to get at them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 10:47
|
|
|
Got the other one out.  This is the one that's been leaking for who knows how long. Something odd here, see that top right nut? It's got an extra wide base on it, so unless that one is standard and the other 9 were all replaced, someone's been in here poking around...  Ugh, gross.  Dealing with some dirty poo poo here, time for the new parts washer. Surprisingly not horrible.  Crackin like a walnut.  Veeb0rg posted:Diff oil in the axle tubes is an obvious sign that the inner axle shaft seals have failed. You'll have to remove the 3rd member to get at them. I don't think it actually has inner shaft seals. At least I can't see how they would work. The ones at the end of the tubes are definitely old and in need of replacement though.   Looks kinda greenish with my camera. It was all brown in the sunlight though.  loving heavy to hold above your head and drag out from under the car while laying down.   Needed some serious leverage to hold it while I undid those bearing arch bolts. Good thing I had this piece of old farm harrow laying around (and not buried in a meter of ice like it would have been last week  ) Man, the faces of these teeth look like they've never been used.   Greetings from the future, probably dead assembly line worker far in the past  Anyone have a clue what those numbers mean? Face look pretty good, not that it matters.    For the interested: The axles appear to be 30 spline (counted twice, hope I didn't gently caress up) and there are 47 teeth on the diff gear. Time to order some parts. (also get one of those little splitter dealies for the bearings on the carrier, some proper brushes for the parts washer, put my press together, figure out some sort of workbench arrangement...)
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 02:56
|
|
|
How many pinion gear teeth? Ring gear teeth divided by pinion gear teeth will give you your ratio. What part did those bearing cups come from, the carrier? If you put it back together, put them back on the same sides they came from. Also you need to reset your backlash now, and be very careful bolting the bearing caps back on or you will get them crossed on the side adjusters and ruin everything. And make sure the bearing caps go back on the side they came from too. Gear setup is fun, if you have patience. You should give it a shot if you want different gears.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 15:15
|
|
|
Factory pinion snubber. 1960s Chrysler 
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 15:33
|
|
|
kastein posted:How many pinion gear teeth? Counted last night before bed, 16 on the pinion for a ~2.94 ratio. So yeah, that's coming out. 3.55 or maybe 3.73 is going in. Along with a new torsen style LSD, so this was always part of the plan. New bearings all around because hey, why not (yep, those caps came from the carrier).I just need to find a good place to order everything I need. Any suggestions? Randy's gear and pinion? Summit?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 15:48
|
|
|
I'd worry more about the maker of the gears than where you order them from. Stay away from the poo poo tier brands - USA Standard Gear, etc etc. If they say their gears are loud, they are probably low quality. Genuine Chrysler, Motive (iirc), and a few other brands are good. When you get the setup kit (this is less important for an 8.75, since it only has shims for pinion depth and preload, and in some may not even have preload shims as some housings use a preload crush sleeve) make sure you get a good one. I posted a big list of extra stuff to buy for a d30 gear install in the jeep thread a page or so ago... some of it applies to this, some doesn't. For instance you have no need for carrier setup bearings because you have side adjusters (a seriously nice feature) and I'm not sure whether you would want an inner pinion setup bearing cup or cone for an 8.75.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 17:24
|
|
|
kastein posted:I'd worry more about the maker of the gears than where you order them from. Stay away from the poo poo tier brands - USA Standard Gear, etc etc. If they say their gears are loud, they are probably low quality.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 20:22
|
|
|
No personal experience, but their sales pitch includes telling you to shut the gently caress up and deal with the noise, since the gears might be loud, which doesn't really instill confidence in me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 21:20
|
|
|
kastein posted:I'd worry more about the maker of the gears than where you order them from. Stay away from the poo poo tier brands - USA Standard Gear, etc etc. If they say their gears are loud, they are probably low quality. You obviously know an absolute poo poo-ton about Chrysler-used rear ends. How's your knowledge of GM 10-bolts?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 21:24
|
|
|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:You obviously know an absolute poo poo-ton about Chrysler-used rear ends. How's your knowledge of GM 10-bolts? You just said half of what I know about them. They have 10 bolts on the cover, and they are weak. People poo poo-talk them just like they poo poo-talk the chryco 7.25, ford 7.5, and dana 35. Pretty much anyone smart will do burnouts with it until it explodes, laugh, and then swap in a better axle. And I really only know the chryco 8.25 REALLY well, the 9.25, 8.75, and others I have to limp along off what I see in the pictures (the side adjusters are super obvious in the pics he posted) and found on google (the crush sleeve info, my gut instinct tells me most chryco diffs use one, but some don't.) The 8.75 is like a nifty cross between a ford 9 and a chryco 8.25, I like the looks of it. Other than that I know dana 30s, 44s, 60s, a little about 70s, some about 80s, a bit about Rockwell 2.5 and 5 ton diffs, some about ford 8.8s, and a decent amount about GM 14 bolts. Everything else, you know just as much as I do. I'll stop derailing this thread to talk about rearends, though. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Mar 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 21:30
|
|
|
kastein posted:I'll stop derailing this thread to talk about rearends, though. Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the info.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 21:59
|
|
|
I don't mind. I always love these spontaneous discussions. They always have interesting info, and I almost always learn something.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2014 15:31
|
|
|
We should just pay for Ken to come out here for the summer, give him a truck and point him at the pick 'n' pull yard. After 48 hours of no sleep he'll have taken care of it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2014 15:47
|
|
|
A lot of locals seem to recommend Richmond Gear. Also why do you want something as complicated as a Torsen? What are your plans for the car?
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2014 15:56
|
|
|
mafoose posted:A lot of locals seem to recommend Richmond Gear. Also why do you want something as complicated as a Torsen? A 5.7L hemi and some kind of manual transmission, hopefully a t56. Basically, sick burnouts.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2014 21:35
|
|
|
Slung Blade posted:Counted last night before bed, 16 on the pinion for a ~2.94 ratio. My brother bought my dad and I a Truetrac and a 3.73 ring and pinion set through Summit for Christmas (both for a 8.75" rear end). The diff itself took about 3 weeks, and we still haven't seen the ring and pinion like 4 months later now.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2014 22:12
|
|
|
Slung Blade posted:A 5.7L hemi and some kind of manual transmission, hopefully a t56. You don't want a torsen for that... Torsens are expensive and great for road racing. They don't always lock right as they attempt to sense torque differentials, so if you blow one tire free from a stop, it won't notice it. My Miata has a torsen from the factory, and for slippery conditions, the manual recommends applying the brakes to load up the free spinning wheel to get it to lock the other in slippery conditions. What you want is a locker. It will outlast the torsen and be about 4-5 times cheaper. Powertrax lock-rights are cheap and nearly indestructible. As long as you run a recommended gear ratio, they won't be all that noisy when turning sharply at low speeds. (I have a truetrac locker in my Volvo, and a friend has a lock-right in his).
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2014 00:36
|
|
|
mafoose posted:You don't want a torsen for that... Looks like I can either get a Detroit locker, a true trac limited slip, or an auburn gear posi. I would like to corner at speed sometimes, (suspension upgrades are also planned) so I'm thinking the locker might not be my best bet for the binary operation style. I like what I'm reading regarding the true trac, but it seems like a torsen (worm gears instead of helical, whatever minor distinction that is). Which would you recommend of these three? Everyone else feel free to chime in as well, I've not got my heart set on any of these just yet. Cheapest option is the auburn by about a hundred bucks. Locker and true trac are within five bucks of each other. The auburn needs friction additive, but the other two don't, so cheaper and easier maintenance marks for them. Price on the unit isn't a major issue.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2014 23:29
|
|
|
Called up UPS thursday morning and paid the stupid COD brokerage fee (  ) on my package. I caught the UPS guy as he was driving out of town 12 hours later, lucky thing too, he didn't get the memo that it was paid. Fuckin dispatchers.So hey, I have some nice new parts. All new bearings, axle seals, pinion, ring, crush sleeve (couldn't find an eliminator for the 741 casting size) gear oil, grease, and shims.    Pinion bearing was a bitch to get out, the old shaft seal was a total dog. I put my press together, holy gently caress is that thing a piece of poo poo. It's going to take me an hour to sand the edges of the press blocks flat. Get what you pay for I guess (not that I could have gotten a better one, fuckin tool stores all sell poo poo these days).  There's a sweet looking oil tube that shoots at the bearings after it gets thrown up by the ring gear (I'm guessing) but I couldn't quite capture it in photograph.  And I stopped here for the day. Any guesses why? 
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2014 05:34
|
|
|
Hope you got more than one crush sleeve, I've never gotten it right on the first try.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2014 05:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 21:16 |
|
|
hahaha gently caress, looks like you got screwed by the "old coarse spline yoke vs new fine spline gearset" fairy today. I'd go with a new matching yoke... coarse spline can go to hell. You shouldn't be doing the crush sleeve till basically the last pinion install - but yeah, grabbing a spare pinion nut and crush sleeve would likely help out. Always use a fresh, unused pinion nut on the final install after putting the pinion seal in, they're all-metal locknuts and lose some grip every time they're reused.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2014 11:19
|
|