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demonR6 posted:It sounds like CPD's to me.. I have them and they are salmon'ish. If wish I could get them. They look so pretty.
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Feb 6, 2016 07:52
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Errant Gin Monks posted:If wish I could get them. They look so pretty. My school is down from 10 to 4 over the four years. I am considering getting more, they are very easy to take care of but the water conditions will be make or break for them. Also they hide most of the time but when they are out, you can usually catch them chasing each other around in a circle.
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Feb 6, 2016 17:47
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demonR6 posted:My school is down from 10 to 4 over the four years. I am considering getting more, they are very easy to take care of but the water conditions will be make or break for them. Also they hide most of the time but when they are out, you can usually catch them chasing each other around in a circle.
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Feb 6, 2016 23:30
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Setting up a new fluval spec V right now. Managed to pick up a few nice pieces of mopani wood, a few new plants, and some rose barbs to add to my 20 gallon long. Sadly I don't think the spec will be ready for any cherry shrimp before the 20% off sale happens (even though I'm jump starting it with bacteria from my other tank, it's not going to be ready overnight). Sadly one of the rose barbs isn't look so hot (has a discoloured spot on the back, wonder if maybe it got pinched or something when it was getting fished out at the store?), hopefully it makes it through ok  . The rest seem to be doing great though.
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Feb 7, 2016 03:26
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What kind of discolouration are you seeing? Lighter, darker, redness, scale missing? Best thing you can do is keep a very close eye on it, if it's in front of his dorsal fin it could be the start of a columnaris saddle ulcer. I've had no luck at all with rosy barbs from my LFS since they get them in as feeders, they've been bred in garbage conditions and are treated very poorly instore too. I hope your place treats them a bit better. If you can separate this suspect fish from the others, at least temporarily, you should do so; when I lost my last rosy barb from a pea choking incident the others were trying to pull off his eyeballs within 10 minutes - I guess if you've ever kept barbs before you probably know what they're like, so very ridculously greedy. You don't want him crashing overnight and his tankmates feasting on his diseased little corpse, anyway.
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Feb 7, 2016 10:22
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Stoca Zola posted:What kind of discolouration are you seeing? Lighter, darker, redness, scale missing? Best thing you can do is keep a very close eye on it, if it's in front of his dorsal fin it could be the start of a columnaris saddle ulcer. I've had no luck at all with rosy barbs from my LFS since they get them in as feeders, they've been bred in garbage conditions and are treated very poorly instore too. I hope your place treats them a bit better. If you can separate this suspect fish from the others, at least temporarily, you should do so; when I lost my last rosy barb from a pea choking incident the others were trying to pull off his eyeballs within 10 minutes - I guess if you've ever kept barbs before you probably know what they're like, so very ridculously greedy. You don't want him crashing overnight and his tankmates feasting on his diseased little corpse, anyway. Yeah, I stashed him in a breeder box overnight, but he didn't make it. It was a lighter vertical stripe in between the dorsal and caudal fins, I hadn't seen anything like it before. Shoulda gotten a picture of it to be honest. Also I should have not been an idiot last night and typed Cherry Barb, not rosebarb. Wrong kind of fish! Have a picture of the new tank at least. Nifty little setup. 
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Feb 7, 2016 15:31
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They are nice little tanks. I have mine at the office. I spilled some salt in it though. What do I do?
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Feb 7, 2016 20:53
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Welp, I had a little macro shrimp in the tank with the chain loaches for a few months and he held his own pretty well. Made them keep their distance with his claws, but now he's gone and I'm assuming the loaches ate him like they did the cories and all the shrimp. 
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Feb 7, 2016 21:51
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Dad is going fishing to the Murray river fairly soon, and says he wants to catch some macrobrachium shrimp for me. How much room do they need? Considering the state of my current tanks I wouldn't want to mix in new shrimp and risk either the fish or the health of the new shrimp from suspected shrimp disease, so I was thinking a plastic tub in a different part of the house would be a better place for it. But not sure if they like still or flowing water, plants, what kind of substrate, etc. Dad has caught them before and had them in his fish pond but they didn't last so I want to do a better job than that of looking after one. Actually now that I think of it, I already have a big plastic tub that I was planning to use for the sump of my guppy setup, there's probably no reason that a macro shrimp couldn't live in a sump.
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Feb 8, 2016 15:51
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Stoca Zola posted:Dad is going fishing to the Murray river fairly soon, and says he wants to catch some macrobrachium shrimp for me. How much room do they need? Considering the state of my current tanks I wouldn't want to mix in new shrimp and risk either the fish or the health of the new shrimp from suspected shrimp disease, so I was thinking a plastic tub in a different part of the house would be a better place for it. But not sure if they like still or flowing water, plants, what kind of substrate, etc. Dad has caught them before and had them in his fish pond but they didn't last so I want to do a better job than that of looking after one. Is the river fast flowing or slow? You probably want to try to replicate natural conditions as much as possible. How big is the tub? You could probably use a powerhead in the tub for flow/ surface agitation and a sponge filter.
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Feb 8, 2016 15:55
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It's a big river, wide and long, turbid, but I'm not sure exactly which bit he's going to visit (I should probably ask). I suspect there are lower flows near the banks than there are out in the middle but I don't really know how rivers work, having grown up in the semi-desert. I've only seen it myself once or twice when I was little. The main river is around 300m wide in some places and there are waterways along the sides, canoe trails, bendy lake bits etc. I'm guessing he's sticking to the lower Murray, the whole thing is over 2500km long and we are closer to the end that empties into the sea, and I'm assuming there is a fairly wide range of hardnesses/salinities that the shrimp could find themselves in. Our tap water here comes from this river originally. I'm thinking about using a tub which I think looks like it would hold 70-80lt or more. I haven't worked out the plumbing yet. I wanted to use an old pond pump to get water out of the sump and gravity overflow back in, so there should be a decent amount of water movement, but the tub should be big enough to also have sheltered zones. I was thinking of having plants in the sump so it would be pretty handy to have a shrimp to guarding the plants from being eaten by snails. After some quick reading I suspect Dad might have an ulterior motive - these shrimp are apparently good eating and have more meat in their tails than yabbies so if I end up growing out some big ones he might offer to "take them off my hands" once they get too big for the tub. I don't really know how I feel about this possibility!
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Feb 8, 2016 16:58
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Stoca Zola posted:It's a big river, wide and long, turbid, but I'm not sure exactly which bit he's going to visit (I should probably ask). I suspect there are lower flows near the banks than there are out in the middle but I don't really know how rivers work, having grown up in the semi-desert. I've only seen it myself once or twice when I was little. The main river is around 300m wide in some places and there are waterways along the sides, canoe trails, bendy lake bits etc. I'm guessing he's sticking to the lower Murray, the whole thing is over 2500km long and we are closer to the end that empties into the sea, and I'm assuming there is a fairly wide range of hardnesses/salinities that the shrimp could find themselves in. Our tap water here comes from this river originally. Better than culling them?
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Feb 8, 2016 17:09
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I am sad. My little musk turtle has decided that any plant placed in HER tank must be quickly, completely, and utterly destroyed. Gone through about 8 bunches of anacharis before I gave up. What super sucks is I used to have a super healthy clump of the stuff that was actually taking over the tank, but then I think I trimmed it wrong and it all died off. When I'm not so poor, and have a bigger place, I'm definitely investing in a dedicated, turt free fish tank.
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Feb 8, 2016 17:41
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WTF BEES posted:I am sad. My little musk turtle has decided that any plant placed in HER tank must be quickly, completely, and utterly destroyed. Gone through about 8 bunches of anacharis before I gave up. What super sucks is I used to have a super healthy clump of the stuff that was actually taking over the tank, but then I think I trimmed it wrong and it all died off. My red eared slider is the same way. The only plants I've found he won't eat are marimo moss balls.
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Feb 8, 2016 19:50
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Farlowella hitching a ride on the Black Devil Spike Snail: 
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Feb 9, 2016 05:18
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Alright I'm done here on this tank until I get the catfish in the pond outside and the aquaponics set up running. I have made good progress I think.
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Feb 9, 2016 18:29
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I spent a real, real long time today tearing down my 20l, bleaching everything I could to try and win over the cyanobacteria that I've been dealing with, and rebuilding it with new substrate that should be more plant friendly. Also put some mopani wood into both of my tanks, been soaking it for a few days along with some boiling.    e. also looking at those pics, I wonder if I should move that ozlet from the spec V into the big tank, and replace it with some of the anubis that's not quite so tall.
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Feb 9, 2016 23:57
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Ok. Question. For this phossorb stuff it says use only like 1/3 a cup for 50 gallons in the filter. This is not very much, and it doesn't cover the entirety of the filter width and length. At all. Is this a problem? I keep imagining it needing to cover the entire path of the water.
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Feb 10, 2016 02:12
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I don't reckon it will matter, water will keep circulating past it and the size of the molecules in the water are pretty small compared to the size of the filter media no matter what you do. You'll never catch every bit in one pass but it's still enough to have some effect. I loaned my DIY bucket filter to my mum to try and get rid of some of her pond algae and after about 4 hours she was mega disappointed that her pond wasn't clear yet. After two days visibility has increased from about an inch to about four inches, and its now possible to actually see the goldfish. She still wants to know when she can turn it off, doesn't want to leave it running while they are out, etc. Every time I say "Actually, some people have a pump and filter running ALL THE TIME" she just stares at me like I'm crazy. Mind you I've tested her water and she had zero ammonia, nitrites or nitrates, water lilies and algae must be clearing that up even with no filter.
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Feb 10, 2016 09:16
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So now that all the plants are going crazy and exploding in size the plants were being crushed by hornwort. I had bought 3 little 1 foot sections of it and put it in the tank a month or so ago. I decided to pull it out and toss it in the pond to prep for the channel catfish next month. All in all there was almost 10 feet of that stuff. Jesus Christ it grows fast. Hopefully it likes the water outside and helps clean it all up and cycle it. I think the anacharis will need to be trimmed next some strands are already over 2 feet long. So they too can go live in the pond. Edit: I also couldn't pass up some new stuff for the goldfish set up.  This great new piece of driftwood  And these guys to be friends with the goldies. Errant Gin Monks fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Feb 13, 2016 |
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Feb 13, 2016 01:07
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I'm new to this, and I've just started getting my 38 gallon tank set up. Currently I have one Dwarf Gourami and three Columbian Tetras, along with quite a few live plants. I'll admit to introducing the fish too early -- the tank hadn't cycled -- but I couldn't wait. It will be a while before I introduce more fish. One of the tetras seems to be a bit of a bully to the other two sometimes, but I'm hoping that will resolve itself once I add a few more. I'm planning on getting three more of the tetras and some corys. Definitely open to suggestions on the cory side of things; I'm keeping the tank at 78 degrees right now to keep the gourami happy and that might be too warm for the commonly suggested Panda Cory. I will try and keep to the 1" per one gallon of water rule of thumb, but I would like to have more than three species available. I need more tetras, and it seems that corys like to be in a group of six or more. Six tetras, six corys and the gourami would leave me with about 12" left, which is about the right amount for another six-fish shoal or maybe one or two larger fish. Do different tetra species form two different shoals, or do they intermingle? The other option, of course, would be to get more of the same tetras and corys so they can really have some friends. I'm also curious on how shrimp tie into the equation here, as I would like a couple of those but I don't want to over-populate the tank. I'm using driftwood to help keep the alkalinity levels down, as my water comes from a well and is quite hard and a bit more on the acidic end of the scale. I'm not sure how to cope with the hardness, though. My other issue is the lack of a nearby fish store -- the local pet shop does have a few tanks and basic supplies, but it isn't going to be a reliable source of fish and I do not believe I can get reverse osmosis water in town. This will also be a problem when it comes to introducing new fish, as I have to drive two hours to pick them up myself or have them shipped. I can't really justify picking up or ordering 2-3 fish at a time, so I'm going to have to introduce more fish more quickly than recommended. Are there any suggested tips to help combat that? Here's what I have so far; more driftwood, some rocks, and some moss balls are on the way. There's way too much snow out there right now for me to find my own. 
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Feb 14, 2016 05:27
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Sterba's Cory is the usual warmer temperature corydoras, they're quite popular, and should be okay at 78. All cories prefer fine rounded sand to gravel so you will have to keep an eye on their barbels to make sure they aren't being worn down or injured. Definitely don't do anything livestock-wise until your tank is cycled! Did you use any kind of bacterial boost product to get it started? How long has your tank been running? People usually use super hardy fish for in-tank cycling because the process is not kind on the fish. What kind of filter do you have, and what filter media are you using? With well water (actually, any water really) you will want to do some comprehensive testing to work out what you are subjecting your fish to. If you haven't already got one, you should have a Master test kit for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, which you need to track your cycling, and that will have pH testing too. You should get a hardness test kit too. Fish will survive outside out of their ideal water parameters, but maybe they won't live as long, and maybe they won't breed. You should definitely have zero ammonia, zero nitrite and nitrate under 20ppm. If your water has good buffering capacity it's more likely to be alkaline than acidic. Driftwood will leach tannic acid into the water and new driftwood will make the water brown up like tea. Doesn't hurt the fish but you might not like the look of it. It really isn't worth trying to "chase a pH", you want to keep your tank as stable as possible with the water you have. The only way to remove hardness is to use RO water, or I think some people use peat in their filters (not sure if this does a great deal to soften water that is already hard) but depending on what your actual readings are you might not need to worry about that. How hard is your water, both gH and kH? I think the 1" per gallon rule is largely discredited, what you need to pay attention to is the footprint of the tank since that tells you both how much surface area for oxygen exchange there is, and how much horizontal space you have for the fish. Some fish, while small, require a lot of tank length to swim around enough while others pick a spot and hang in place so it comes down to learning about the requirements of the fish you are choosing to stock rather than relying on some blanket rule. The seriously fish database and also aqadvisor.com have some information that you can use to help you there. Your tank looks like a tall tank so you might not be able to fit as many fish as you think. Always understock your tank, this will give your fish room to grow. Shrimp don't have a very big bioload so you should be able to add some, red cherry shrimp are easy to care for but also easy for predatory fish to find and munch on. If something fits in the fish's mouth, the fish is likely to try to eat it. Once you've got your tank cycled adding more fish isn't such a huge problem, the best way to mitigate an increase in bioload while waiting for the filter to catch up is to do more frequent, small water changes as this should help keep ammonia levels down. You're already ahead by planting real plants in your tank, this can help control nitrate levels to some extent but your best friend is water changes to keep ahead of wastes in the water. The filter will get there eventually, but you can measure your levels to try to keep things stable or at least at a safe level. Edit to add: in my understanding, tetras and other schooling fish form their own pecking order, which is why it is important to have a sufficient number of them to spread the bullying across the group so that no one fish becomes overly stressed. They like safety in numbers too but they will stress even with no danger around due to the dominant bully throwing their weight around if the school isnt big enough. Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 11:38 on Feb 14, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 11:12
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Thank you, this is very helpful. One quick note: I misread the strip, and the water is actually more alkaline than acidic. I'm hoping the additional driftwood I have on the way will help to bring that down a bit, and then I can try and keep it steady at that level. I did use a bacterial starter; API Stress Zyme. I also have a bottle of the Stress Coat, but that seems to be a bit more geared towards an established tank. The tank has been running for ~2 days now; I selected the tetras and the gourami specifically because I thought they could handle it. They seem to be doing just fine, but we'll see as the different levels spike throughout the cycle. My filter is a Penguin Biowheel 200. I don't know what kind of media is in the filter; whatever came standard with it. The big blue square. I don't have a Master test kit -- that should probably be next on the purchase list -- but I do have test strips. Not as reliable, I know, but here's the reading from this morning: pH: 7.8 Total Alkalinity: 180 Chlorine: 0 Hardness (This actually seems to have gone down, but I don't know why; could just be bad readings: 200 And 0 Nitrate/Nitrite The ammonia reading is also very close to zero; I know that's ideal, but shouldn't at least one of ammonia/nitrate/nitrite be rising as the cycle gets going? As for the 1" per gallon thing, this is the setup I bought: http://goo.gl/cli2dy. It is pretty tall, and it's a bowfront. That aqadvisor website is awesome, and exactly the kind of thing I was trying to find a week ago. On my list right now, I have six of the columbian tetras, six sterbai corys, the gourami and two cherry shrimp. That leaves me 69% stocked with 48% extra filtration capacity. I'll probably want to run a bit below those numbers just to be safe. Maybe get a fleet of harlequin rasboras as well. That's a lot of fish to add at once regardless of how many water changes I make, though. Maybe I'll just shore up the tetra population and add the corys, then get the rasbora and shrimp later. While I'm there I can pick up some RO water as well to help reduce the GH, but I don't want to make the trip every time I plan on changing the water. Would I be better off just keeping the fish acclimated to the high hardness levels? Edit: here's a link to the aqadvisor setup: http://goo.gl/2gl2vY
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Feb 14, 2016 16:40
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I'm in the middle of a tank cycle, and my ammonia/nitrite/nitrate were all pretty close to zero at the start (I tossed the biomax ceramic stuff into my canister filter for a few hours to try and jump start it, although I should really just move some of it by hand into the new tank today), but after a few days the ammonia started to go up, and then the nitrites shot through the roof. So, I wouldn't be shocked to see you start to get higher readings, especially if your nitrate reading is a perfect 0. e. Also a useful tool I've started using is google spreadsheets... got a nice little thing going where I can type in the test results whenever I do one and it gets plotted automatically, and I can write down when/how much I dose the tank with whatever so I don't have to think to myself "when was the last time I added flourish". Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Feb 14, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 16:57
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That pH isn't too bad really, it's alkaline but certainly not what I would call too high which is good because ammonia is worse for fish at higher pH levels. Two days in is very very early in the cycle so with your only source of ammonia being your fish it might take a while for it to build up enough to feed the nitrifying bacteria. It's likely to take weeks to finish cycling so keep an eye on it. I'm not sure how much you'd need to water change to stop that from being too toxic for your fish but I'd say "some" and "every day" would be a safe bet.
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Feb 15, 2016 01:34
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Came home from a weekend trip (my brother was watching the tanks) and found 9 new frontosa fry! Had to pull them out of the sump and corner overflows. Also, my LFS is going out of business, which sucks, but everything in the store is on mega sale. I came home today with 4 angel fish, 6 giant danios, 3 denison barbs and 6 albino cories. Enos Cabell fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Feb 17, 2016 |
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Feb 17, 2016 04:26
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Cool! Congrats on becoming a fish-dad(or mum?) again. That's sad about the LFS, but sounds like you got a nice haul. I wish mine would go bust so that the suffering would end but then I'd have nowhere to buy frozen bloodworms. I still feel bad about giving them my money when they can't even keep basic hardy fish from going rotten in their tanks. I had a surprise last night, my penguin tetras who usually hang sullenly in their chosen corners of the tank, and are swiftly chastised by the big one if they dare step out of place, were shoaling beautifully. The whole tank was alive with activity, cories going nuts on the bottom and guppies in some kind of frenzy and I couldn't work out what was wrong. I mean it didn't look like anyone was in distress but things are never that busy just before lights out. Then I saw it, every now and then a group of tetras would break away from the shoal and go jiggle around on top of each other over the hornwort. Judging by the activity I've only got two females, one of them is only just big enough to spawn, the other looked very harassed. Leaving the flow on the spray bar up too high by mistake after a water change seems to have triggered them. I don't think any eggs will survive predation, I certainly didn't see any but that's been the case for all my egg layer fish apart from the danios. I turned the flow down and within 10 minutes everything was back to normal. I'll be checking tonight if the water is gross with fish jizz, penguins have a reputation for fouling their tanks. Maybe I should up the flow for them permanently if they like it that much more. I don't think the cories mind and I bet the guppies would get used to it (they aren't supposed to be in that tank anyway). The way they were shoaling and zooming though, I think you'd want a big big tank for these guys to have enough room for natural breeding behavior. Really different to the danios, which were almost tender with each other, carefully selecting which piece of plant they liked best. I've never seen my rosy barbs spawn even though they have been the most prolific of my egg layers. I don't know why this gets me so excited, I don't have room for any more fish 
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Feb 17, 2016 05:44
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Put the first fish in my new spec V!  Hopefully sometime next week it'll be ready for some cherry shrimp.
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Feb 17, 2016 05:54
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Mr. Despair posted:Put the first fish in my new spec V! Looks like you forgot to feed it.
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Feb 17, 2016 17:37
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If anyone has been having issues with brown algae, I had great success with Phosguard. It's really saved me from just giving away my fish and selling off the tank supplies. I was that frustrated.
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Feb 17, 2016 18:03
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So is that just over a week and you're already seeing results? Good to know!
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Feb 18, 2016 06:14
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Haven't posted on SA in forever, but I've been using this thread as a great resource for starting up my aquarium. Last time I had an aquarium I was ~7, and I'm excited to start again and do things the "right" way. Just got a Spec V like some fellow posters seem to have. Spent almost an hour rinsing out my fluorite and got the tank set up with some plants. Not sure yet if I'm going to do a single Betta and maybe some shrimp/snails depending on it's temperament or a few of a couple types of schooling fish. Any suggestions? Does my tank seem too crowded? This is my first experience using live plants in a tank. I'm hoping the little cloudy chunks there are just some excess gel that came around the plant roots I didn't wash off well enough, is that something that will eventually dissolve? edit:also all those bubbles, those will go away on their own right? Twoflower fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Feb 18, 2016 |
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Feb 18, 2016 06:36
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It looks alright to me, depending on how fast your plants grow it might get a lot more crowded yet. I've found using plants with smaller leaves looks less crowded in the Fluval Spec V since it fits the scale of the tank a bit better. Lighting-wise I'm not sure how well your grassy plant will like the stock light that comes with the tank, you can see that the bit under the thermometer is fairly dimly lit, maybe that could improve with a little adjustment of the angle of your light. Carpeting plants usually like a lot of light to keep them growing low and flat, though. A lot of people end up replacing the stock light, I haven't yet since I can't get Finnex in Australia as far as I know and I haven't found a good alternative. Pretty sure the fish don't like the lights to be as bright as what the plants like anyway. I think the bubbles you're seeing are pretty normal for brand new water, that kind of thing is why you want to let your water stand before you use it to give any dissolved gases a chance to bubble out. They will go by themselves or you could help them along with your choice of tank scrubber, ie one of those magnetic scrapers would knock them off. I found I got some bacterial cloudiness in my Fluval spec in the corner joins too, this is normal as the (harmless but nutritional) chemicals seep out of the new silicone. Should clear up in a week or so by itself. I recommend jamming a bit of sponge in the bottom "safety" inlet slot to the filter chamber to shrimp proof it a bit, water still seeps through there when the level gets lower than the top inlet holes but now nothing gets sucked through. I think under normal operation it wasn't a big deal but when you pull the sponge out to clean the filter, it generates a fair bit of suction and things were ending up getting sucked into that chamber and then being really painful to get out. I can see now why people say fluorite is too rough for corydoras! The tank is a reasonable size for a betta although you might need to reduce the flow so he doesn't get pushed around while he's sleeping. I'm using mine as a guppy display tank for my young male guppies while they get their colours in. Since they're from a feral population they are a lot smaller than the fancy guppies I've seen at the LFS, but still I don't plan keeping them there forever. I don't think its a big enough tank for schooling fish, even little breviboras and boraras need more room. Sundadanio axelrodi might work though! http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/sundadanio-axelrodi/
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Feb 18, 2016 13:54
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This is a great light for that tank. When I was running mine as freshwater I used this light and had great growth with my plants.
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Feb 18, 2016 16:53
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Rallos do those Finnex lights have a plug/socket between the transformer and the cord to the light? I'm wondering if they have a wall plug style transformer which outputs a common voltage, ie 12v or something I might be able to swap for an AU transformer. The 120v/240v difference won't matter then since the lights would still get the low volts they were expecting. At that price I'd even cut the US plug off and solder an AU one on myself if there isn't a plug/socket. Quite a lot of my other gear does have it but I bet that is due to being made in China so that they can easily substitute the correct transformer to match the country of the customer. If it's not a pain in the arse could you have a look at the power plug (if you still have that light) and see what it says? I guess if the transformer is integral to the light and not on a wall plug I'm screwed and my idea won't work.
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Feb 18, 2016 17:36
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Stoca Zola posted:Rallos do those Finnex lights have a plug/socket between the transformer and the cord to the light? I'm wondering if they have a wall plug style transformer which outputs a common voltage, ie 12v or something I might be able to swap for an AU transformer. The 120v/240v difference won't matter then since the lights would still get the low volts they were expecting. At that price I'd even cut the US plug off and solder an AU one on myself if there isn't a plug/socket. Quite a lot of my other gear does have it but I bet that is due to being made in China so that they can easily substitute the correct transformer to match the country of the customer. If it's not a pain in the arse could you have a look at the power plug (if you still have that light) and see what it says? I guess if the transformer is integral to the light and not on a wall plug I'm screwed and my idea won't work. If its dual voltage it should work out of the box for you with an adapter (I was stationed in Europe so I'm familiar with making US 110 things work in 240). I will check when I get home (in about 7 hours).
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Feb 18, 2016 17:48
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Cheers Rallos! I just can't believe yet again I can get something delivered from Amazon US for a third of the price of a sub-standard equivalent thing here (ie just white, no blue or red LED). I've already got an adapter so I hope it is dual voltage, I had a suspicion they might not be though and that's why they don't bother selling Finnex here. Either way, thanks! You almost never see info or pictures of power plugs so I always assume if I don't buy something here, it won't work.
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Feb 18, 2016 18:06
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I've got a 10 gallon tank with a fugeray on it, lightly stocked, keeping up with water changes, etc, and it's a complete algae disaster. Tons of hair and black brush. Tons. Meanwhile, plant growth has always been abysmal. Used to dose with ferts, don't bother anymore since my CPDs have successfully spawned in the mess, and seem happy. I'm getting tired of the algae though, so I'm looking to redo the tank. I'm shooting for low tech and low effort, with enough plant cover to keep the CPDs happy. Fugeray Planted+ seems like the way to go as near as I can tell. Anyone have suggestions on dosing regiment, substrate, plant stocking, etc? Gonna be using rodi remineralized with salty shrimp gh/kh+ since my tap water is lethal, and I'd like to have a few shrimp running about.
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Feb 18, 2016 18:53
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Stoca Zola posted:Cheers Rallos! I just can't believe yet again I can get something delivered from Amazon US for a third of the price of a sub-standard equivalent thing here (ie just white, no blue or red LED). I've already got an adapter so I hope it is dual voltage, I had a suspicion they might not be though and that's why they don't bother selling Finnex here. So I checked just now. It is in fact dual voltage so buy away!   On a side note, I don't know how much it would be to ship to Australia from Chicago but if that's cheaper for you I will ship this one to you as long as you cover the shipping charge. I am not going to use it. PM me if you'd like to take me up on the offer.
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Feb 19, 2016 05:36
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Ahh that's awesome! Here's what Amazon is quoting me: Price: $23.70 + $7.11 Shipping & Import Fees Deposit to Australia I honestly don't think you'll be able to beat Amazon's global shipping rates, that's ridiculously cheap. Locally, I couldn't get a parcel from here to the next town over for seven bucks. TwoFlower might want it though, domestic shipping will probably be easier to arrange. I've noticed that one of the LEDs in my stock fluval light has started to go weird, dim and yellow, pretty sure it's going to burn out soon and some of the others are noticably dim vs the others so I'm pretty keen to get a replacement before it's too late. Thanks again though for checking that for me!
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Feb 19, 2016 07:10
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