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Snowdens Secret posted:I have almost made this thread so many times. It used to be better when they were just talking on them, 'cause you could rev out to 9k and make speech impossible in any but the most heavily-insulated luxo-barge. Texters not only don't care, but seem not to even be capable of noticing.
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Jul 24, 2013 15:11
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:
Yeah. I feel you here. I've got a bandit 1200. It's a beater. I ride it everywhere. It looks like rear end. It's got carb issues. It has rust issues. It has a loud exhaust, because doing it quieter would be more expensive, and I can't afford it. But it goes 180mph, and 0-130 in like 8 seconds. Loudly. I can show that to anybody, at any time. If you think your Dodge Magnum can outrun me at the next light, you're wrong. Next bridge? wrong. You will run out of balls, horsepower, and rev before I do. I know that. I also know that I'm getting 50mpg while doing all this. So I try not to be a douche. I try not to rise to bait. I try not to launch every light. But the thing is loud, and has a crappy carb, and tall gears. It backfires on decel. It runs like rear end until it's warmed up. This means I have to keep it idling at 2k until it doesn't want to die. It means I have to feather the clutch to stay at 15mph. I'm not revving through your school zone because I'm an rear end in a top hat. I made a terrible decision not to buy a tanmry and it is drat-near mechanically impossible to go 15mph on this motorcycle when it's less than 85 degrees out and the bike's been ridden for 20 minutes.
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Sep 7, 2013 23:03
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:We do. Also our motorists will try to kill you for having the gall to break a law in a way that means you might get somewhere on time. Doesn't stop me but adds a little flavor to the commute. Or perform any action that in any way means you will BEAT THEM if they cannot reciprocate. Pass four cars and that slow-rear end garbage truck on the DY because it happened to stop RIGHT as I showed up and I wasn't four inches off its rear end this whole time so I've actually GOT some visibility? I'm worse than Satan. Pull up at the far-right lane that ends just past the intersection, beat EVERYTHING off the line and merge in, thereby cutting off a line of forty cars stuck in the other two lanes? It would be more acceptable to be strangling kittens, right there in the road. Realize this is my turn while sitting at a light and just turn sideways and walk across four lanes of traffic to hit the turn lane and then turn? I would be welcomed had I only been pissing directly in their windows.
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Sep 9, 2013 23:52
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M42 posted:Dearest claim evaluator: For a battery. If it stalled in the shop parking lot. Even then the estimate is a bit low from what shops charge insurance.
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Sep 11, 2013 23:48
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clutchpuck posted:It's a parking light, don't leave it on that overnight or you'll drain your battery. Leave it on "off". Then put it halfway around the barrel, not 5 degrees. I dry-lubed up my barrel to keep it from sticking, and now the key just slides into "SCREW YOUR BATTERY" with nary a detent. I have to actively pull on the key as I'm going down to lock to make sure it pops out early enough. This is so not a feature, and unfortunately it's all internal to the lock cylinder, so it's not like you can just cut a jumper and it'll be OK.
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Sep 16, 2013 21:21
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Z3n posted:Check your wiring diagram, you might be able to disconnect the wire that is paired by the parking position. I just quadruple-checked it. On the fifth time through, I found the right wire. I'm off to disassemble this stupid thing and delete that wire. No joy. It disable the park, but also disabled daytime tail lights on. Enabled brake light flashing, though. The tail tidy is hurting me now, not enough lamps to do what I want. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 21:54
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I get around one or two old farts that do left turns right in front of me every season, but that's about it. It's rare enough that I never remember where the horn is when it does. Heh. A couple days ago, some people failed to maintain their lane, and as they came over the line, I was furiously cancelling my turn signals at them until I remembered the OTHER button down there. I've also hit the starter before. Funny thing about that is after I made my turn a block later, I hit the horn trying to cancel my turn signals and some people in a parking lot gave me a confused look.
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Oct 8, 2013 01:59
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Digital_Jesus posted:It especially bothers me when people play leapfrog on the highway though. No Mr. F250 diesel I'm not passing you because I want to race, I'm passing you because I can't see around you and that makes me less prepared on the road. I just want to be able to see in front of me. God. I don't have a cruise control, just a throttle lock. If the wind picks up a bit, I go a little slower. If it dies down, a bit faster. Hills? Same deal. Still, some douchebag will just pace me the whole time. Usually, they'll put their car so I'm just in the blind spot. They come up on traffic, jam on the brakes, and then switch lanes behind me. Pass, drift back up to pace me. Then they'll find some other moron doing the same thing. Now we have three vehicles doing some kind of complicated choreography EVERY time there's a slower vehicle to pass. Even though I'm literally not touching the throttle in any way. I then leave those idiots behind at 120. 90 seconds at 120 gives a LOT of room. Furthermore, I rode like 400 miles on I-95 this weekend. Almost all of it was in the rightmost lane. I only VERY infrequently had to leave it to pass. I was passing an rear end-ton of cars and trucks, though. It was like bizzarro world, where the left lane was for people hanging out and chilling, and the right lane was for passing. I absolutely hate it when someone moves right to pass a set of slow cars on the right, then gets back into the middle lane when there is NO OTHER TRAFFIC AROUND. WTF is wrong with "keep right except to pass"? I want to get that written on a fluorescent sign and staple it to my back or something.
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Oct 15, 2013 23:45
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Deeters posted:Every time someone asks me how fast my bike is, I just answer "fast enough "I've buried the speedo a couple times. 170 is fast. You're stupid if you think it's not." "But how FAST DOES IT GO!?!" Ok guy, I get it. You don't think 170 is fast. You have never in your life been driving at one hundred seventy miles per hour. Your car probably fuel-cuts at 112 or 122. This is fifty percent faster. You're going two-thirds of my "end of the speedo, but I've got another 3k RPM to go" speed. You think you're going fast when your fuel cuts out, but I can just keep pulling in 4th at that speed. Bikes are STUPID FAST. Ridiculously overpowered. You know what has this kind of power-to-weight ratio? Ferraris. Bugattis. Konigseggs. I paid less for this than your wheels (without tires), and it will blow those off of whatever you have, unless you KNOW that 170 is fast. If you scoff at 170, then I know I can smoke you in any gear at any speed. People say stuff like "why didn't you get a 'busa? It's faster!" I know how fast is too fast. I'm one of those guys who used to say "oh, I'll go too fast and lose my licence." Well, I went too fast, and I lost my licence. Then I waited for the points to drop off and got another bike. Bigger, faster, and stealthier. I've got a carbed bike with big jets, big intake, open exhaust, and no rev limiter. It may be able to talk harshly to a stock Hayabusa, if not actually beat it. But the race will be decided at far beyond any speed that an '02 Civic with underbody neons can typically achieve.
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Nov 3, 2013 00:07
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". Dumb question gets a dumb answer, and no one's ever called me out on it.
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The best part of owning a supermoto is when people ask how fast it is, you can say "it's not" and then just get on to talking about bikes sans all the dickwaving. Yeah, I guess so. It's just so hard not to be dickwavy. It's a hell of a vehicle. This thing really, honestly goes 180, 0-60 in like 4 seconds or better. 60-120 in 4 more seconds, and gets 50mpg at 100mph. It cost $3000. An oil change is $20 with a $10 filter. It wheelies all day, it's loud when you want it to be, but has low-end torque so you can keep it under 4k and be quiet when you want to. It doesn't have stupid motorcycle electrics. The fact that it was a Suzuki parts bin bike means most stuff for every other anything fits it. GSX-R heads, SV-650 clutches, literally any Suzuki indicators and mirrors. I can't think of anything it's BAD at. Even offroad, it's not terrible, to the limits of the tires.
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Nov 3, 2013 02:59
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If mileage % 3000 == 0 change oil. Sometimes that means 2500mi between changes, sometimes 3500. So be it.
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Oct 28, 2014 20:10
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HotCanadianChick posted:Are people just allergic to whatever is cheapest at staples? That's what always worked for me. Also it means I don't give a poo poo when I get oil all over my $0.49 notepad. Look at this yuppie shelling out for Staples. Three for a dollar at the dollar store spiral-top notebooks. Blue is bike. Gray is car. Yellow is recipes (mostly full of mixed drinks).
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Oct 28, 2014 21:10
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captainOrbital posted:Generate a PDF bank statement from one of your accounts, and illegaly forge it so that it looks like you made a payment for parking on the day in question, then lie to the city, telling them that someone stole your parking ticket and that's why you got a ticket. This works wonders at most city governments. The desk jockey doesn't actually want to do any work, so "throw this one out because they're successfully trying to fight" is easier than proving that you actually failed to pay.
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Mar 14, 2015 03:28
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leica posted:Anyone ever hit an animal on their bike? Late last night I was going full speed on my scoot (about 45 tucked in lol) and a giant possum came out in front of me. Thought I was hosed, but at the last minute he turned around, was a good pucker moment, and I imagine if I hit it I would have been off the scoot for sure. I hit a folding metal chair that had fallen onto a steel deck bridge. I was positive I was going to die being munged on the cheese grater surface, but gyroscopic rigidity is a hell of a thing, and except for every part of the bike getting out of sorts for a few seconds, I escaped unscathed. My heart rate went down some hours later. I honestly think that if I had been on pavement then I would have been flung off the bike when a tire going sideways grabbed. After that Incident, I don't swerve for anything, because if I can ride over it, I'll stay upright and not die. I'll brake hard in a straight line for deer, though. Unless I'm driving a car. Screw deer forever.
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Apr 18, 2015 19:08
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Lynza posted:Ok so in that movie poster, that front wheel. Is that.. a thing? When you're doing a ton of highway miles, anything that improves the stability is a good thing. A solid front wheel helps there. It doesn't do so great where there's a lot of crosswind, though. I was actually in a bike shop helping my friend pick up magnesium wheels for his Ducati when there was a guy buying solid wheels for his Harley. The dichotomy was not lost on us.
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May 29, 2015 23:02
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Super Slash posted:About a month ago or something I was out with the missus walking through a car park to grab some food, the sun was going down and we saw a black BMW with its lights on, engine still running, windows open, and nobody inside. There was a dude who pulled up in front of a grocery store as I was leaving. He just hopped out and left his car running, basically in the pedestrian exit zone/halfway into the fire lane paint. I thought it was a particularly douche move, so I locked his doors and went on my way.
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Jun 17, 2015 23:17
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Linedance posted:Dear Greater Toronto Area riders (squids): This is odd, because in the land of no helmet laws, insurance rates are super-cheap, since companies don't have to pay out on DOA single-vehicle accidents.
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Aug 1, 2015 05:22
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Linedance posted:Lacing cord I'm redoing my wiring loom now. I have all of the above in a cart at mouser. $115 to do it The Right Way. Good butt splices (in several sizes), lacing, an rear end-ton of 20AWG, not quite as much 16AWG, thermal-print wire labels, chafe tape, electrical tape. Good splices are like 40 cents per, and you need WAY WAY MORE than you think. I've gone through about sixty splices redoing this loom. I've been through two Wire and Connector Repair courses with the Navy; I know the right way. I also know the way it came from the factory: nonenvironmental splices wrapped in electrical tape, then wrapped in some black plastic goop, then wrapped in MORE electrical tape. I'm ACTUALLY doing this with harbor freight heat-shrink splices; it works OK. It'll probably only last 6-10 more years like this.
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Nov 21, 2015 23:42
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Angryboot posted:It's probably from a bad batch. After this one warped I went and got a Motion Pro set before the store's thanksgiving sale ended and that set worked just fine. I suspect the person with one that didn't bend got a good one. I've replaced my chain four times, and each time I've broken the chain tool. I keep the tool in the package until it's time to replace the chain, then open the package use (and break) the tool, then take the whole thing back to harbor freight and get it swapped with an unbroken one. The new package then goes in the toolbox to wait. I consider them one-time-use disposable tools; harbor freight warranty is worth what I paid.
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Nov 29, 2015 19:16
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Z3n posted:It really shouldn't be possible to destroy the tool on every use. Like, you're putting the thing under a decent amount of force, but I've got a stockton tool chain breaker I got from Cycle Gear for 35 bucks on special and it's never broken a part/had an issue, across chains of all sizes. If you're bending the tool like that, it seems like you must be using the wrong size driver head, have the tool lined up wrong, aren't grinding the heads off the rivets, or something. Because pushing a pin through a chain doesn't take that much force. Oh, it pushes the pin just fine. I'm destroying it by using it as a rivet spreader as well. It's absolutely not designed for that. Although, this time I've got a machinist's hammer and a big chunk of tool steel to use as an anvil; I might be able to flatten the rivet the "right" way.
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Nov 29, 2015 22:57
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Retarded Pimp posted:Can you drill the rivet head off or would it turn in the link? It turns in the link. I found this out when I was cutting my chain with the grinder and my last cutting wheel broke after making it through the first sideplate. Then my dilemma became: walk to the hardware store for another cutting wheel, take my bike with a link half-cut (and all the tools to replace the chain on the side of the road if it fails), or try any of the other tools in the toolbox.
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Dec 2, 2015 02:25
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I've been to my local shop a few times. I needed "a battery" and they had "a battery" that fit. That's fine, literally anything 12V that fit in the battery compartment works for me. However, they have not had: bar ends, rear turn signals that were less than $100 for the pair, a full set of four spark plugs, headlight bulbs, or Shoei visors. That last one confused me greatly. They have a huge Shoei banner out front. I'm getting a visor for an rf1100/qwest. They stock chrome, smoke, blue, silver, grey, but not clear. They have clear for the RF1200, but no pinlock. "That's the most common thing we order" should translate into "we should stock this" but apparently that's not how to run a motorcycle store. You run a motorcycle store by selling motorcycles and ATVs and apparel, not accessories nor parts. That said, their salesmen are badass, and if I'd had money in my account, they would absolutely have sold me an SR-400 that day. Now the other "local shop" I go to is a local customization place, and they rock. They're closed Sundays 'cause that's flat-track and they've got a bunch of Harleys they abuse. Monday is for hangovers and repairing broken bits.
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Apr 24, 2016 02:10
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Slavvy posted:Ask me about a wiring harness enclosed entirely by one huge length of jumbo sized heat shrink That sounds nice. Ask me about wiring harnesses wrapped in three different types of electrical tape.
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Jun 19, 2016 17:38
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hot sauce posted:Not me, I lane split in all states regardless of local law. I got yelled at yesterday while splitting. "You're stupid, that's against the law here!" is all I heard as I split past. Better than sitting still in the rain.
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May 13, 2017 23:52
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Sagebrush posted:I imagine you can count on one finger the number of people who have ever gotten in trouble for not having a working speedometer on their bike Why would you get in trouble?
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Sep 19, 2017 00:57
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Sagebrush posted:You don't need many instruments to operate on a highway in the USA, but you do need to have a speedometer and a turn signal indicator lamp. If a cop pulled you over and was having a bad day you could get cited for the missing gauge. Where do you see this? All I see in the highway safety regs is must have turn signals, head light, tail light. My state law also says at least one mirror. I don't see anything about speedometers anywhere.
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Sep 19, 2017 02:08
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Beach Bum posted:Have you Heard the Word of our Lord and Saviour Wal-Mart? Wal-mart sucks dicks because they force you to go to three different counters if you're buying liquor, ammunition, and snacks. The register jockeys are prevented in software from processing alcohol at the ammo counter and vice versa. The alcohol counter ONLY does alcohol, apparently.
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Sep 19, 2017 23:36
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Collateral Damage posted:You just need to oil the pads, duh. You oil things that pivot. What brakes need is GREASE.
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Nov 26, 2017 15:30
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Sagebrush posted:I find that 40mph is the limit for me. If traffic's gridlocked and moving slower than that, I'll split between cars; once it gets to 35 or 40 I'll slide back into a lane. I never go more than about 15 mph above the speed of traffic, either. Seems to work pretty well and doesn't feel reckless. Because it's actually illegal here, I'll only split in 1st gear. If traffic is moving, I'm moving. If traffic is stopped, I'm going a bit above idle in 1st, 10-15mph. But I'm not overheating a bike again, nor killing a battery on something with a garbage charging system, or vapor-locking a crappy carb, or any of the other reasons I've been stranded because I stayed in traffic. Really, I should just buy a modern motorcycle with EFI and a reliable cooling system.
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Dec 2, 2017 03:05
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MomJeans420 posted:I realized when I was putting the new battery in that part of the problem is I have my new tank bag in extended mode, so it makes it harder to see the key in the ignition. I think I'll just change my habit to turning the bike off with the key, I don't know why I bother with the killswitch now that I think about it, just one more thing to dick with. Although I used to just turn it off by putting the kickstand down, but I felt bad about that for some reason. I can't imagine it really matters though, it just seemed rude. The killswitch and kickstand are in a series circuit to the ignition system. They are electrically equivalent. I have a long downhill driveway. I hit the killswitch at the top of the driveway, and when the cooling fan turns off a hundred feet later, I turn the key off. I'm coasting in neutral the entire way down to the garage. I pull the bike into the garage and shut off the petcock. I leave the key in the bike, turned off, then leave and lock the garage. Turning the bike back on is already enough of a three-ring-circus due to the ancient design and crappy modded carbs and ignition system that I basically have to run a checklist. Killswitch: RUN, Key: ON, throttle: twist four times, starter: crank four seconds until the cough, WAIT TEN SECONDS, repeat throttle twist and crank cycle until the bike runs. However, I have accidentally killed three batteries by turning the key too far past off to "P", so that wire is cut on the ignition switch. WTF is the point of P?!
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Dec 6, 2017 02:13
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A MIRACLE posted:you can always just point the bike downhill and drop clutch in gear with the throttle open a bit if your battery dies. starts right up. you can do this with a car too Slipper clutches need not apply.
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Dec 6, 2017 03:11
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I've been riding with my heated gear for a week now, and it's great. Average morning temp is ~17-20°F, average evening temp is 40°F. I don't turn the gear on in the morning for about five minutes, then turn it off ten minutes later. On a 40-minute commute, the stuff just gets TOO WARM. It turns out that just being windproof and insulating goes a very, very long way.
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Jan 16, 2018 20:16
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Coredump posted:That have anything like that in the US? Or does Evan's cycle ship across the pond by any chance? Look at SOLAS tape/products. It's about the most retroreflective stuff I've ever seen anywhere ever.
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Feb 9, 2018 00:47
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I desperately need to do something to improve my throttle cable routing. I was on some loaner bikes yesterday and their throttles were smooth, short throw, light, and returned to idle easily. I didn't realize how masochistically terrible my throttle is. I will fix it with the EFI.
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Mar 20, 2018 15:49
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MomJeans420 posted:Yeah I just posted recently about a friend trying to buy a $5000 fz07 but the dealer wanting to add $2500 in fees. It's good though, it keeps me from ever doing something like buying a brand new bike. Same deal, but on a $1999 CBR300, $2500 in fees. Way to go, guys. I told them I had $3000 cash, and they wouldn't budge below $4k. That's double the sticker price. I get they need to make a buck, but when you're just gonna tack on $2500 to anything, it kinda makes a difference if it's a $30,000 harley or a $2000 honda. They also wouldn't just sell me "a battery" without a part number. I was building a battery box, so I just needed something AGM and cheap and about <THIS big> and the guy wouldn't even look.
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May 3, 2018 02:28
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I have. They’re still not that loud. A BMW with straight pipes sounds like a mid-60s Beetle. The most quiet and unassuming raw exhaust noise possible.
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Jun 28, 2018 03:48
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Sagebrush posted:Yeah nah it's just that whenever I read "tighten the 8mm fork lower bridge tension bolt" I immediately look for something with an 8mm head sticking out, and have to step back and go oh right, that's the 12mm head on an 8mm screw that I need to be looking for. Just so you're aware: this is because you're not a mechanic working on these things with a regularity. People that do things with their hands have the experience and knowledge just know that a 6mm bolt has a 10mm head, or that an 8mm bolt is a 13mm, unless it's JIS, then it's 12mm. Either you learn these things, or you don't, but it absolutely is not JIC or SAE or ISO's problem that you can't be arsed to learn the terminology applicable to this field. Wait until you work on partsbin abortion bikes that have both metric and standard fasteners. Is that bolt head 10mm or 3/8"? I personally replace all my JIS 8mm stuff with actual M8, because I have a PILE of 1/2" wrenches that work just fine on 13mm heads.
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Aug 3, 2018 22:57
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:FFS, DOT4 is not a specialty product, why do all the stores I go to have none?? Seriously. I'm going to replace all my seals and o-rings in my brake system and just fill the thing with MIL-H-5606 or MIL-PRF-83282. I can get those as waste from work. edit: straight hydraulic fluids do not make good brake fluids. This is a bad plan. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Sep 8, 2018 |
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Sep 8, 2018 02:31
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Slavvy posted:Why do they always lie? Why?? What can they possibly gain by lying to the oval office fixing the loving thing? I'll always find out the problem, it's my bloody job. Do they want me not to fix it or are they embarrassed of being idiots? Like you're paying me to fix it, wouldn't you want to give me as much information as possible? Pilots.txt
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Oct 12, 2018 02:15
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RadioPassive posted:5 gallon bucket and a set of tire levers is really all you need, and I’ve done it without the bucket a few times. I thought we were talking about spiders or wasps still. Couldn't figure out what the bucket was for.
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Apr 6, 2019 20:45
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