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MikeyTsi posted:I don't want to feel like I'm contributing to someone ruining what is at present a pretty nice car in good condition. If you make it your life's mission to prevent DSM owners from ruining their cars with poor decisions, you're going to be a very, very busy man. Godspeed young man! Octopus Magic posted:They don't call DSM's the Japanese Trans Am without reason. We still love you guys. 
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Jun 7, 2014 03:17
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Agreed. How easy to find are motors for these? I would sell it to him, shoot the poo poo, mention you might be interested in buying his car "if he gets tired of it", then sit back and wait. He will nuke the engine, buy it off him for an insultingly low price, slap a motor in it and sell it to
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Jun 7, 2014 03:59
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kastein posted:Agreed. How easy to find are motors for these? I already bought a car from him, and look at what this thread has done to me,... I should probably unload it, I'm not going to use it if it's not an actual MHI turbo, and what he does with his car isn't really my problem.
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Jun 7, 2014 04:03
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MikeyTsi posted:I should probably unload it, I'm not going to use it if it's not an actual MHI turbo, and what he does with his car isn't really my problem. Exactly. Don't feel guilty because he's a loving moron.
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Jun 7, 2014 14:54
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Honestly an eBay turbo is hard to beat smiles per dollar. I paid $120 shipped brand new, and it has survived over a year at 20+psi, with the last few months at 30psi or so. If they all lasted only 1 year, I could buy 7 years worth before I was at the cost of a none-knockoff one. The footprint is the same, so you can run one and get a "real" one later. If you really don't want it, I would be interested in fitting the compressor to a Volvo hot side 
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Jun 7, 2014 16:23
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My worry with a Chinacharger is that there are failure modes that could trash the engine - either dumping shredded bearings into the oil, or chunks of turbine into the intake valves.
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Jun 7, 2014 19:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:My worry with a Chinacharger is that there are failure modes that could trash the engine - either dumping shredded bearings into the oil, or chunks of turbine into the intake valves. Getting chunks of the turbine into the intake would be an impressive achievement indeed.
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Jun 7, 2014 20:41
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Fucknag posted:Getting chunks of the turbine into the intake would be an impressive achievement indeed. I'm not sure if you're trying to be pedantically clever here or if you don't understand how a turbocharger works. I'm going to just assume the former.
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Jun 16, 2014 21:57
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Last I checked the turbine was on the exhaust side; the intake side is the compressor. So yeah, basically the former.
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Jun 16, 2014 22:01
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It's update time! After a "scheduling issue" on Monday, sir 13" and I met in my front yard to once again do battle against the DSMs. Our goal, get at least ONE of these loving engines out, by god. We started by getting the engine hoist in place and getting it hooked up, so we could pull the mounts. We left the axles in place because they're poo poo and we figured we'd just have them separate when we pulled the motor. This'll handle the load of an engine, right?  loving thing first had contact issues with the transfer case against the main crossmember, then the transmission against the body, and the axles weren't separating like we wanted. We're too loving lazy to pull the transfer case and/or the transmission, so we said "gently caress it", and ripped out the axles, then dropped the front crossmember, dropped the engine on to the ground, then moved the chains to the cam sprocket side of the engine so it would rotate while we lifted it to get the transmission components to clear. gently caress yeah!  Since I'm working on gravel/dirt, the wheels on the hoist sank so we couldn't push it back to lower the engine. So we threw the wheels back on the front of the car and pushed it back so we could drop the engine on the ground. Looks a lot more empty:  So, offically 1/3 done now. 13" took two of my engine mounts with him so he can get the bushings pressed out (I've got prothane bushings to put in to replace them); the other two bushings look to be in pretty good shape so I'm not going to replace them before installing the insert bushings for them. We're planning on meeting up again on Sunday or so, to at least yank the other motor; hopefully we'll be able to get the stuff transferred over (like the AC lines the PO decided to remove and such), and get the motor installed again so I can wrap up wiring and poo poo and try to get the drat thing to start. This week's tasks are to coat the absolutely filthy engine bay in cleaner and spray it down to try to get it cleaned up, and I'm debating ripping the dash out in the old car so I'm ready to pull wiring harnesses and such if I need to swap them over. I'm further considering replacing the brake booster and master cylinder NOW, it's loving impossible to get them out with the engine in the car and I got a response from someone that's running the upgraded parts with the stock calipers saying that response and pedal feel are still good. This would make the future swap to Lancer calipers a lot less complicated. And 13" has the brake line tools so I could get the line run to the one spot that doesn't line up quite right.
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Jun 16, 2014 22:19
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 "Did you get it all lubed up before you slid it in?"
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Jun 17, 2014 23:05
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13" seems to be of the opinion that we should take a sawzall to the donor car to "make it easier to get the engine out". There's like, wiring and stuff there that I'm hoping to possibly use or part out, that I think may be difficult to get out while the engine is still in the car. What do you guys think?
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Jun 22, 2014 00:28
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MikeyTsi posted:I don't like fun
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Jun 22, 2014 01:00
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Well, like, you can use the sawzall to gut away the body and MAKE the harness easy to get to, right? Do that.
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Jun 22, 2014 01:26
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Fucknag posted:Well, like, you can use the sawzall to gut away the body and MAKE the harness easy to get to, right? Yeah, I'm interested in the idea in theory, just don't want to destroy something I'm going to use or sell.
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Jun 22, 2014 21:12
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No, I'm saying cut the body panels to get the wiring and stuff you mentioned out of the way, then continue cutting.
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Jun 22, 2014 21:16
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Hey guys, should I buy this:    1990 Galant GSX. 176000 miles. Technically speaking these are even more rare than the VR4, which is saying something. Guy wants $1600, which is probably what I'd expect to pay for a basket case VR4 or a rolling chassis. Advantage with this one is that it's allegedly a runner in good mechanical condition (body has some dents and poo poo that would need some work). The general idea would be to have MY GIRLFRIEND drive it until I get one of my 6-bolt engines rebuilt, and then I'd do a turbo drivetrain swap.
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Jun 22, 2014 21:29
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Fucknag posted:No, I'm saying cut the body panels to get the wiring and stuff you mentioned out of the way, then continue cutting. I'm not sure how well that would work, I think the wiring largely runs along the areas we'd need to cut. We'll examine the option on Tuesday, I'm sure.
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Jun 22, 2014 22:53
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I saw a pristine ~'92 Talon on the road yesterday with a not-obnoxious body kit (the three point spoiler thing), and found myself explaining to the passenger why this was both rare and neat to see. I then found myself explaining that the Talon was not an AMC Eagle.. and promptly gave the gently caress up. E: All body panels had matching paint, too. It didn't look original, though - it was far too nice to be an early-90s job.
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Jun 22, 2014 22:57
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MikeyTsi posted:Hey guys, should I buy this: Most DSMers don't seem to hear the voice of reason, but I'll at least try.  I think it's a terrible idea. Who cares about it's rarity when it isn't worth anything? It's a clapped out NA "DSM" that you'd have to replace the entire drivetrain to really enjoy. And even then, it's still a car that's nearly 25 years old and every bushing/strut/ball joint/(insert every part ever) needs replaced.
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Jun 23, 2014 02:37
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As someone who used to own a GVR4, I'll say this: Buy a GVR4 or save your money and buy something else. Do not buy that GSX.
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Jun 23, 2014 03:08
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Larrymer posted:Most DSMers don't seem to hear the voice of reason, but I'll at least try. 1990 Mitsubishi Galant GSX 4 Door Sedan 4WD Base Price $16,369 $2,075 $3,500 $5,100 TOTAL PRICE: $16,369 $2,075 $3,500 $5,100 1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Turbo 4 Door Sedan AWD Base Price $22,500 $2,275 $3,800 $5,625 TOTAL PRICE: $22,500 $2,275 $3,800 $5,625  It's all basically moot at this point, I can't get the cash together for it at the moment.
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Jun 26, 2014 18:29
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Yes, buy it as an "investment."  If it's still for sale then obviously it isn't a great price just yet. Why the heck would you buy that when you can buy an old Honda or Toyota of the same vintage for the same price? -Sane people
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Jun 26, 2014 22:21
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I passed on a GSX with a knocking 4g63 last summer for $1400. Just because it's rare doesn't make it valuable. Also I have no idea what is up with the nadaguides values, they always seem way too hopeful.
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Jun 27, 2014 06:40
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Larrymer posted:Yes, buy it as an "investment." Nice goalpost shifting there, duder. I especially enjoy how you added a strawman in as well.
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Jun 27, 2014 06:40
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If you really want a Galant, buy a VR-4. There's no reason to get a GSX when a similar condition VR-4 can be had for maybe a grand or two more. You save money in the long run and you get a sweet dash badge.
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Jun 27, 2014 08:10
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VR-4's are pretty ridiculously overpriced these days though. I troll the Galant forums quite a bit because I've wanted one for years. Hell, someone's asking $1000 for this thing: 
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Jun 27, 2014 22:11
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MikeyTsi posted:I troll the Galant forums quite a bit because I've wanted one for years. I wonder why they're overpriced....
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Jun 28, 2014 01:43
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KillHour posted:I wonder why they're overpriced.... I was thinking the same thing. I continually see people 'trolling' for cars.. however I don't want to get too  about it. It's 'trawl'. 
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Jun 28, 2014 05:10
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Oh, you did NOT just try to English-nerd me, son.  troll [trohl] Show IPA verb (used with object) 1. to sing or utter in a full, rolling voice. 2. to sing in the manner of a round or catch. 3. to fish for or in with a moving line, working the line up or down with a rod, as in fishing for pike, or trailing the line behind a slow-moving boat. 4. to move (the line or bait) in doing this. 5. to cause to turn round and round; roll. (It's a fishing reference)
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Jun 28, 2014 09:44
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MikeyTsi posted:Oh, you did NOT just try to English-nerd me, son. That meaning is also exactly where the internet term 'troll' (for someone who posts argumentatively/baitingly) came from. It's because they're trolling for attention.
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Jun 28, 2014 11:07
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Trawling implies you're using a net and catching whatever. You can troll with a single line, or even a gun or bow. I troll craigslist by casually wandering through and picking out one or two cars that I like. To follow the analogy and theme, you would trawl craigslist by casually wandering through and adding four out of every five cars to some internal list.
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Jun 28, 2014 11:35
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See also: trolling motors.
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Jun 28, 2014 23:13
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(Lack of) update: Someone from one of the DSM Facebook groups I'm a member of was going to come out and give me a hand today, but Seattle sucks and decided to precipitate all over the place. However, I did get my motor mounts from 13", and got most of the fluids I need. Was going to get some power/ground wire for the 150A alternator install, but Car Toys wants like $7/ft. for 0/1. gently caress that. I'm thinking about going with 2-gauge instead anyway (which is listed as being able to support 150A), and I don't want to pay that much. Found a bunch of eBay listings for wire that are considerably cheaper. I was wanting to try to run the wire to the stock location on the fusebox under the hood, but I'm thinking the wire just might be too drat big and I can't find fusible links in 150A. I'll probably just have to do something custom.
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Jun 29, 2014 01:25
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Check out a welding supply store for big wire. Edit: just noticed it's for a big alt install so never mind the circuit breaker.
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Jun 29, 2014 08:45
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MikeyTsi posted:
Geirskogul posted:you would trawl craigslist by casually wandering through and adding four out of every five cars to some internal list. Isn't this what we do.. ISN'T IT?
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Jul 1, 2014 17:46
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Update:  Engine from donor is all disconnected and sitting on the ground. Didn't get it out simply because it got too dark to get the chain moved to a point where I can get the engine to rotate 90 degrees so I can get it to come out. That should happen today. I'll probably also swap the driver's door over to make my life a little easier with the roller. Once that's done I can swap parts over in the engine bay, get the new power cable for the alternator run, and do the swappage I need to do on the powertrain stuff, then this sucker's going IN. Nothing to stop me now!
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Jul 8, 2014 00:58
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MikeyTsi posted:Was going to get some power/ground wire for the 150A alternator install, but Car Toys wants like $7/ft. for 0/1. gently caress that. I'm thinking about going with 2-gauge instead anyway (which is listed as being able to support 150A), and I don't want to pay that much. Found a bunch of eBay listings for wire that are considerably cheaper. It's not going to be pushing 150A all the time unless you have a crazy stereo, and/or constantly jump-starting then recharging a totally dead battery. 2 gauge should be more than adequate. Also, like mafoose said, welding cable is a good source. It's WAY cheaper, and just as flexible (if not moreso). It's just kind of ugly.
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Jul 8, 2014 09:19
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some texas redneck posted:It's not going to be pushing 150A all the time unless you have a crazy stereo, and/or constantly jump-starting then recharging a totally dead battery. My concern isn't so much whether it's "ugly" or not, it just needs to work (and preferably be in two different colors so I can distinguish positive/negative at a glance). I'm not sure where exactly to FIND welding cable though,...
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Jul 9, 2014 01:18
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Google "[location] welding supply" Call one, if they don't sell it by the foot, they probably know who does. It's usually available just in black, but I have seen red and green. You could buy some red heatshrink to put over the ends so you don't confuse it.
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Jul 9, 2014 01:40
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