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Fuckin' woohooo!!! Thanks for all the work krushgroove, and good luck everyone! I will be oathing this year instead of drowning in bookkeeping!
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Apr 30, 2014 23:07
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That would be on the wrong side of the international date line, which would cost literally everyone west of Bangladesh a day of painting. Using Samoa, the aussies may be the last to get to Oath on the 1st, but they get nearly an entire full day extra on the end of the month to finish up.
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Apr 30, 2014 23:54
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The Supreme Court posted:Awesome! Looking forward to this year. Hoping to do Dreadfleet justice, and practice using the airbrush I got for Christmas. Me too, both of these things! Except I bought myself my airbrush for christmas, and it was christmas 2012. 
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Apr 30, 2014 23:59
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I Leperflesh Hereby Oath the Heldenhammer for May 2014, a Games Workshop miniature from Dreadfleet, lovingly sculpted in approximately 1/2400 (0.67mm) scale 
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May 1, 2014 02:57
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e. whoops beaten haha
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May 2, 2014 09:11
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thespaceinvader posted:Can I Whales a last season oath? If not, two of them are still good to go as I only did one colour of basecoat, so I'll get pic up soonish. The third is four colours so far so no dice D: That is a good question. I'm not part of the rules-writing or adjudicating team this year, because I want to take part, but I am still sponsoring the Whales prize. I'd be happy to let folks Whales oaths from last year, but I assume that only goes as far as being eligible for the year-end prize I'm offering. Last year, Whalesing an oath also potentially affected points, because of the bonus points you earned for completing lots of oaths (and whalesing an oath counted towards that completion). So let me say that, if Iris of Ether is OK with tracking it somehow on the spreadsheet, and the rules-writers don't see it as an inconvenience or problem with regards to the rest of the contest, I'm all for it.
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May 2, 2014 20:01
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I think the plan is to scrap it? I'm not certain. But I do know that only 8 goons completed alt universe oaths in the last year's thread, and more than one survey response was against it.
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May 3, 2014 09:24
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Ledgem posted:Now to figure out when Samoa time ends in comparison to eastern time since I have a tendency to post complete on the final day. A lot later. You'll have well into the wee hours of the 1st to get your oath done. This is the specific reason why I suggested a time zone just to the east of the international date line: nearly everyone on Earth will have at least until midnight their own time, and if you live east of Samoa, you'll have even more time. Nobody will be racing to finish at like 5pm their own local time. You'll need to finish up by like 11pm local time if you live on Midway Island, Baker Island, or Adak Island. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:34 on May 5, 2014 |
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May 5, 2014 20:31
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Ohohoho, yes I believe Krushgroove made an understandable error. We should be using American Samoa, and that's exactly what I thought we were using. Pago Pago in American Samoa is UTC/GMT -11. And they don't use Daylight Savings Time.
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May 5, 2014 22:32
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I'm also offering the same prize again this year for Saving da Whales: the winner's choice of either rescuing some
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May 9, 2014 19:31
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The Supreme Court posted:Can't wait to see your dreadfleet models! I'm looking for inspiration on the paint schemes: are you following the GW guide? I'll probably be asking for airbrush tips too, I'm completely new to it. I'm not following the GW guide. I'm still a newb with the airbrush, but I've learned a bit from watching Youtube videos and a lot from the painting thread in this here forum. That's definitely the first place to go to learn, it's an amazing resource and anyone here who wants some painting tips should head over there. So far, I've painted those little cup tokens, the dwarf ship, and a couple of sea monsters, all as 2011/12 oaths before I got my airbrush:    Sorry about the poor lighting, I took all of these photos at like 3 minutes before the oath deadline, in a huge hurry to try and get them in, because I am a relentless procrastinator. e. And I just realized, that ship wasn't done when I took that photo, I think it's a failed oath. I'll try and take some better photos at some point soon. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:31 on May 9, 2014 |
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May 9, 2014 22:25
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Asphyxious posted:And so began the reign of Prince Kem-Sedjet, Lord of the Blackest Flame, Rising Son of Djaf, He Who Can Frankly Go gently caress Himself. And all of Neferhesek did tremble at his fierce incompetence. Goddamn. I'm already a Tomb Kings player, I already love the lore, and that is just brilliant. Prince Kem-Sedjet, may you fight many interesting battles in the years to come. Also I like the purple. The amethysts on the back of his headdress came out really nice.
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May 15, 2014 18:26
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krushgroove posted:Should be the same as last time around, the only change is that instead of picking the best every 2 months, Ineptmule will be picking them every 3 months to coincide with the Quarterly prize rounds. Last time, Ineptmule's themed prize was a random draw; goons got one entry into the draw for each month they completed a themed group. You might be confusing this with the previous thread's Manifest's Best Conversion contest, in which Manifest picks his favorite conversion from among all conversions done for the thread during each quarter. Neither of these side-contests involved points.
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May 20, 2014 19:14
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Just a heads-up to everyone: we've got the final judging in and are doing some random prizes, as well as the grand prizes, for the Season 4 Oath thread! Be sure to stop in and see if you won a thing, or just to check out the swag.
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May 28, 2014 21:09
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Oh man, I just realized I totally get to compliment people on their work this year! I didn't ever want to do that last year because of my empowered position. These guys are really pushing my buttons. Very nice work and good photography too. I'm delighted to see someone else doing dreadfleet models and this looks really good. I've got a ton of work to do still on the Heldenhammer and I have to do it all tonight, because Saturday I have guests over all day (to play Twilight Imperium) so there won't be time for painting. Are you planning on oathing more Dreadfleet stuff this year? My wife gave me my copy for my birthday like two or three years ago and she's annoyed I've never played it, but I can't assemble most of the ships until I'm ready to paint them. So finally getting around to it is a big priority. My goal is to have it fully painted by the end of this year's oath thread.
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May 30, 2014 19:52
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:My goal is also to complete Dreadfleet by the end of the oath thread. I'm doing everything besides boats first then working backwards from the order the ships appear in scenario. Assuming I finish my oath this month, which I should, then next month I will finish the last of islands and shipwrecks. I already have the rulers and turning things done from last season, so progress is occurring! Oh yeah! I remember seeing your islands and stuff too. I've already done a couple sea monsters and some treasure tokens and stuff, as well as the dwarf ship. My goal is to be able to play as soon as possible. So I'm trying to do the ships that are needed for the first scenario first; that way I can play before the whole thing is painted up.
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May 30, 2014 21:09
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enri posted:Ha, snap.. my wife bought me my copy too, back when it came out and similarly has pointed out that I've never played it. My fall back excuse is "I'm buying games for the kids to play with me when they're older! honest luv" - works a treat. Haha oh man, my space hulk guys! Well, at least they're assembled and I've played the game. Dreadfleet just has enough ships with inside-parts that I know would be impossible to paint well if I glue them together first, that I've held off on assembly, and that prevents me from playing. I have so many unpainted things I know I'll never in a lifetime get them all painted, and yet I keep buying more. I've got a big box of Bones I, completely unpainted, and I've got Bones II coming this year too! If I painted as much as Red Shoe it'd still take me years to get through this pile.
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May 30, 2014 22:31
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OAF COMPLETE OK here goes! Detektuv's Jurnal, Parts List, Season 5er How to paint the Heldenhammer in 1. Prime: Army Painter Grey 2. Undercoats (airbrushed) Minitaire Regal Red (sails), Minitaire Bark (wood), Minitaire Brass Monkey (roofs), Minitaire Sky Blue + Minitaire Skull White (ship body), Citadel Blue Grey (water)  3. Shading: 50/50 Regal Red + Minitaire Innards Werewolf Grey  4. Tape and repaint Minitaire Bark (wood), Citadel green ink (water), tape and repaint roofs Minitaire Brass Monkey   5. Sails highlighting: 2 drops Minitaire Skull White 2 drops Minitaire Regal Red 4 drops water  6. Water: drybrush Citadel Blue Grey  light brush Citadel Space Wolf Grey  7. Wash deck with Citadel Seraphin Sepia Wash roofs with Citadel Gryphonne Sepia that has partially dried out and concentrated Water: highlight skull white by hand  8?Drybush deck with Citadel Snakebite Leather + Minitaire Skull White Test-fit and check tolerances  drink beer Small clean-up Ink blue details with Citadel Blue Ink + water + 1 drop Liquitex Slow-Dri Blending Medium   Cannons: half-dried-out Citadel Boltgun Metal + water + Slow-dri  Step ~10ish: Lining - Regal Red + Slow-Dri  go to bed Friday night. This is due Saturday night and you have friends coming over to play Twilight Imperium alllll day saturday so you better get it done now right? Right. Gold: Citadel Shining Gold + water + slow-dri   Basecoat for Anchors + Chains: Citadel Charadon Granite + water several steps: Highlight red trim with Regal Red + Skull White mix Drybrush anchors and chains and roofs with Citadel Mithril Silver Glue and clamp Fill gaps with Citadel "liquid" (this is a lie) green stuff  Paint to fix part color edge mismatches steps 20 through 25+: Minitaire werewolf gray/slate blue mix. Like, a lot of places, this is for midtones Second coat of Shining Gold blend and fix blue highlights paint back over Green Stuff with body colors/gold  Basecoat the tiny ship with Minitaire Bark  Paint flag details. This takes forever and if you make even a single mistake the sail is ruined because painting in between the shapes is impossible and it was airbrushed to get the fade and patching an airbrushed fade using a paint brush is not humanly possible. Minitaire Mustard Gas + skull white yup it's hosed up no Minitaire Skull White that went OK Citadel Bleached Bone worked great Minitaire Sky Blue the shield is easy Citadel Mithril Silver wow this went on perfect   Oh my god it's 2 AM Go to Bed argh OK saturday morning my brother calls it's an emergency go pick him up he needs a thing Oh wait I get halway down the block he's got the thing OK I've had like 6 hours that's enough, get to painting it's already 8 AM you lazy bastard Step 30ish? Tiny ship: Citadel snakebite leather. This tiny ship is boring Black flag: Minitaire Coal + varying amounts of Skull White to build up highlights I wonder if this will look OK I forgot to take pictures for a little while Figurehead: drybrush Minitaire Brass Monkey wash with very diluted mix of Citadel Black Ink + water wow this looks great I should have just done the entire ship like this Apply sky blue to sail cross-beams jesus christ. I mean seriously this one step took like 2 hours. gently caress this noise a whole lot Ink in the words using a super-fine-tip Coptic Multi-Liner SP (0.1) Get it wrong at least three times and paint over the mistakes with Bleached Bone  Try to fix a spot on the sail and HORRIBLY gently caress IT UP AAAH it's already 2 AM I've been painting this thing for at least 18 hours or more and NOW it's ruined oh god can I fix this  no ok this is kind of OK and this sail is hidden behind the other sail anyway right? it's 3 am gently caress it glue it all together and take pictures. Yay OATH COMPLETE Materials List  edited to stop braeking tables Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 12:01 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 11:58
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OK I took too long editing photos of the Jurnal so I only have one nice photo of the ship in my oath complete post. And I had to edit it to stop breaking tables but you can see by the fact I posted before The Supreme Court that I got it all in on time? Anyway here are some more photos of the completed ship. I assume I can't get these into the slideshow since I took too long editing things, oh well      
Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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Jun 1, 2014 12:07
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Thanks for the compliment The Supreme Court. I think it looks OK from a tabletop-eye view but there are sooo many mistakes I want to go back and fix. And mold lines, and gaps that I didn't have time to fill, and I'm really not happy with the highlighting and shading, etc. But I guess I have to limit how much time I spend on each piece or I'll never, ever get them all painted. So, I'm gonna coat this ship with matte seal tomorrow and then move on to the next one. 
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Jun 1, 2014 12:10
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Ok so just to be clear: if you have a mini that normally has a base, then you gotta tart it up a bit for the Jurnal. But if your mini normally doesn't have a base, you get the jurnal point for free (but have no chance at impressing the judges this month). Is that it? I was probably going to paint a dreadfleet ship, but I want all their bases to match each other and the playing mat, so I'll probably add in something to do a fancy base with.
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Jun 1, 2014 23:12
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Here's my opinion. But I want to preface it by reminding folks that I am not a rule-maker this year, and I demand that my opinion be given no more weight than anyone else's. I think we allow primed models. The custom when I was a teenager was to physically paint diluted GW Skull White onto your figures. Then in the 90s people figured out spray paint exists and started priming things by spraying them with a thick goopy coat of black spray paint, possibly a $15 can from GW. At least that's what I surmise from the eBay stuff I've gotten that has had all details obliterated by a mm-thick coat of latex. Some people primed with white still, and some of us picked a middle-ground gray. Nowadays, people often prime using good-quality white/grey/black primer or even solid colors, depending on what the final model's dominant color will be, sprayed from cans or from an airbrush. This is where the oath thread rules have come from - you can spray down your Angry Marines with a bright yellow primer and that's OK. We've referred to that as a "base coat" and said one color base coat is OK, too, but I think the terminology may be somewhat hazy about where exactly a primer job ends and a base coat begins. Priming two-tone using a zenithal technique has lately become a common way to make the task of highlighting and shading a model later in the process much easier. I'm inclined to say that a model that has black/grey/white tones, clearly produced entirely through this simple but effective priming technique, is still just a primed model. And the reason to allow someone to oath such models is not only because folks often do it as a big batch after batch-assembling their kits... it's also because it takes approximately the same amount of effort as a non-zenithal single-tone priming job. E.g., if I take a tray of models out to the patio and hose them down with rattlecan grey, I have to turn them in all directions and spray from above and below and back and front just to get an even coat. On the other hand if I switch between my black and my white cans while doing that, I can get a zenithal prime job with basically the same time and effort expended. I don't personally zenithally-prime, although I've thought of trying it out at some point. I also don't tend to pre-assemble and pre-prime big lots of models, although I do have a few that are already (flat grey) primed. I think we can be sympathetic to newcomers to the thread who have 100 models built and zenithally primed... it would suck for them if they can't oath any of those models. We especially shouldn't get into a situation where someone is deliberately stripping models like that, just to qualify to oath them, so they can go prime them a second time. Of course, that principle has limits. I have a batch of tomb guard I started painting a couple years ago, they have two base colors in addition to colored primer on them. They're too far along to ever oath, so I just need to paint them on my own time. Not being able to oath something hardly means you cannot ever paint it. So it's not that huge of a deal. But I have hundreds and hundreds of unpainted minis to choose from. I wouldn't want someone who only has a small collection to find his entire collection excluded because he was efficient about assembly and zenithally-primed them last October and now they're all disqualified. Regardless of the ruling, I think everyone should feel comfortable just posting photos of something in the thread and saying "would this be a valid oath?" I know the people in charge well enough to say with confidence they'd never be annoyed with something like that and will give their reasoning for their answers either way. Rahotep75 posted:On another totally unrelated note, can I re-oath something that wasn't even painted or would that have to count as a Saving the Whales? You can always Whales a failed oath from this year. However, Whalseing only qualifies you for the whales prize - you don't get points and you can't win the affections of a judge. So if you haven't even started painting something at all, you might prefer to re-oath it! If you re-oath and complete it as a regular oath, you cannot also Whales it. No double-dipping! The spirit of the Whales contest is to encourage folks to finish their minis from a failed oath. The first year I participated in an Oath thread, I failed several, and found myself never going back to finish those models - I was oathing something new the following month and focusing on that instead. So this is a little incentive to "rescue" those oaths. It also provides a sense of amnesty and forgiveness. And of course it's an excuse for me to give away some of my oldest, most abandoned miniatures... near-forgotten relics of an earlier time, when miniatures were made of mostly lead, their faces little blobs of nearly no detail, and sold in printed catalogs we poured through as kids, wondering whether the hand-drawn depiction on those careworn pages would actually bear any resemblance to the miniature or if we would be sorely disappointed with what came in the mail. And then we slopped on a horrifying patchwork of Testors model airplane paint in base colors with the bare metal showing through between them and called it a day. Sorry, I got a little lost there. Anyway yeah you can pick either one, re-oath or Whales, but not both.
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Jun 2, 2014 18:18
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It's a thing we did last year. Basically you make a yearlong oath as a companion oath separate from your monthly oath. So you oath some stuff and paint it before the end of the oath thread, which will be next May 31st. It could be a whole boardgame or it could be just one guy, but the intent I guess is to recognize that some painting projects are just not convenient to fit into a single month, but still fun to put into the Oath Thread format. However, last year very few people participated and a few people mentioned it seemed like an unnecessary complexity added to an already complex set of rules, so for this year I guess the decision was to drop it due to lack of interest. Krushgroove's bounty offer may serve to entice a few more participants.
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Jun 2, 2014 20:36
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For June 2014, I Vow this Solemn Oath:
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Jun 3, 2014 05:05
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Not really. The screen gives off a certain amount of light, and you can match that light with front-lighting. Position it at an angle so there's no reflections, and you can get reasonable results. If you are using a real camera, take your photos in aperture priority mode, and use a relatively narrow aperture. This ensures good focus across the whole scene (but requires more light). Regardless, the less light you have, the more you need to hold the camera totally still because the shutter is going to be open for a longer time, and that means motion blur will ruin the shot if it moves at all. My oath photo is hardly a paragon of photographic excellence, and I spent very little time setting it up, but you can see that the foreground is about as well lit as the tablet (that's a Kindle Fire).
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Jun 3, 2014 23:59
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My best guess is that at a minimum it will be classed ORM-D in the united states, which means it cannot be shipped by air. ORM-D is the lowest classification for potentially toxic substances. ORM-D can be shipped without special paperwork, but you do have to declare it on the box. If it's not at least ORM-D, then you can ship it without any controls necessary. I can't find an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) statement online on Army Painter's website: they do have to provide it on request, but they're not required to publish it. The MSDS statement gives specific information about the contents, and that would be a way to tell for certain if there is anything in the can that would require it to be declared as a potentially hazardous substance. e. just out of curiosity, I've just emailed them requesting an MSDS. Let's find out what's in this stuff.
Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 03:39
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Weirdo posted:
Hey, Army Painter got back to me with a PDF of the MDS for Quickshade! That was quick, haha. First off: this is not nice stuff. Don't breathe it in. It's flammable too. It is irritating to skin, can seriously damage your eyes on contact, may cause lung damage if swallowed(!), and is harmful to aquatic organisms so don't pour it into a river. Section 14 covers transport information, and it says: quote:UN-no: 1263 As a Class 3 flammable liquid, you must label your shipping box with the appropriate hazard label. FedEx and UPS will both ship Class 3 materials, ground, with the appropriate labeling. I think they may require you to qualify in some way before allowing you to ship hazmats, though. These items also require specific packaging, for example UN POP is a packaging standard which FedEx requires you comply with, with some exceptions, and with additional requirements: " For packages weighing up to 20 lbs. the outer package minimum requirements will be a 200 lb. Bursting test or 32 Edge Crush test package." They provide additional guidelines for paint, which a quick reading says basically you have to have clips on the lid, and pack using absorbent material. here's FedEx's shipping guide (PDF) So... My advice is to contact Canada Post or check out their website to see if they'll ship it and if so, what the reqirements will be. Or, maybe this is too much hassle to ship a $20(?) can of paint to America or the UK... Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 20:15
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Question to anyone with experience on the matter - can I, a Canadian in Vancouver, ship a
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This is gonna sound a bit like shilling but eh whatever. I just wanted to mention that I currently use an Iwata Neo alongside my Badger Sotar 2020, and I find these two airbrushes compliment each other nicely. The Neo is great for priming, base coating, zenithal highlighting, terrain, and can do a fine enough line to do some shadowing/highlighting strokes on a 28mm-sized figure. It's a good entry-level airbrush that pretty much anyone who paints minis can get use out of, and it's well-made and easy to clean and adjust. I'd say it's a great prize for anyone thinking about getting into airbrushing with their modeling hobby.
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Jun 16, 2014 18:14
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krushgroove posted:Here's the May Slideshow and Photo Album! My ship is in there, so that's fine, but you've got two copies of the same photo. If possible I'd rather the judges see a different angle, if one of the other photos from my post could be included?
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Jun 17, 2014 18:40
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krushgroove posted:Ah OK, your initial Oath Complete post has the same 2 pics so that's what I used Ah, yeah that's my fault then. Sorry! I was posting at the (literal) last minute.
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Jun 19, 2014 19:07
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Oath Complete!   For maybe the first time ever, done the night before so I could take photos in the sun and compose them nicely and stuff! Awesome! Of course I'm feeling inadequate about my dreadfleet stuff, following Gareth, but oh well what can you do. Click for lots more detail shots:                 Claiming Journal for the basing work on the counts-as-liche priest! I grabbed the swarming scarabs from a piece that came with my Warsphinx, some random skully bits, and then filled in with kneaditite and beach sand. I had to carve away most of the Reaper Bones base, and I pinned both the remaining Bones base and the scarab part so they won't come off. I'm pretty pleased with the results. The aqua/red matches the army theme, and then I used purple to make him stand out as an important character (I'll be using him as the highest-level wizard/priest in my tomb kings warhammer army). As for the volcano, I got to use my airbrush to do something I couldn't have done by hand, which was very cool! I hope the glowy effect is reasonably visible in the photos. There was a lot of light so the castle kind of blends in with the rocks, there's more contrast in real life but I don't have time to mess around with levels in photoshop to try and get it right, so you're looking at cropped, resized, jpg'd RAWs here, no color/saturation/contrast/etc. adjustments. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jul 1, 2014 |
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Jul 1, 2014 01:01
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Iris of Ether posted:Also, spreadsheet's up to date, boss. Your Index columns for June and on are still looking for 5 points instead of 3.
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Jul 3, 2014 20:53
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Forums Terrorist posted:I failed my last month's Oath, but I want to Save Da Whales - how do I do that? As the prize sponsor I think I have some leeway, and I don't intend to change it from previous years. Basically, declare that you're going to save the whales, and then at the end of the month when you post your oath complete, separate out your saved whales and declare them as saved whales. It's helpful if you say which month it was a failed oath from, and linking that month's oath would be even nicer on Iris of Ether. There's no penalty for failing to finish a whales oath. Finishing a whales oath does not get you the regular month's points and stuff, so for example if you Whales your June oath, you still have to do a valid oath for July in order to get the July points. Whales'd miniatures also don't go in the photo album or get judged. But you get an entry into the prize draw for the end of the year, and you get the satisfaction of having your models painted, so that's great!
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Jul 6, 2014 06:11
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I Oath the Bloody Reaver This is a Dreadfleet ship by Games Workshop, 0.67mm scale.
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Jul 7, 2014 00:42
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Just post (after the 1st of the month) that you're gonna try and Save da Whales, and then post an Oath Complete that shows the completed Whales stuff, along with a link or quote of the original oath that you failed. If you post an Oath Complete post that also includes your August oath stuff, be sure to keep your August stuff separate from the Whales (so it's clear to Iris what to credit you for and where).
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Jul 28, 2014 18:38
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Oath Failed I airbrushed the sails for my ship back on like July 5th or something and then never touched it again. In all fairness I've been doing a lot of other things but I should have bothered to get to work a long time ago. Oh well, there's always next month.
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Jul 31, 2014 08:42
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Hi guys! Sorry I sort of went AWOL on this thread for... uh, over six months. I had to focus on Bronzestabbed or it would never have gotten finished, and it's been kind of nice taking a break from painting (although also terrible). Anyway, I saw one or two questions about the Whales prize go by, so I figured I'd address them. -You get one entry per original Oath that was failed during this year's thread, and then completed at a later date during this year's thread. -There is no requirement to complete the Oath in any particular paint scheme; you can change what you originally intended or whatever, that's fine. -You can't claim points of any kind with a Whales'd oath. If you had been doing a bonus point thing, but you failed the oath, you can still Whales it, but you'll have to do that bonus point thing on some other valid, completed-on-time oath, if you want to get those points. I'll be keeping current with this thread going forward, so please post if you have any further questions about the Whales contest.
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Jan 22, 2015 06:28
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Iris of Ether, for the Whales contest, you can roll whenever you've got all entries tabulated, or I can do it, just let me know. Each saved Whales oath is good for one entry, so if someone saved the whales three times, that's three entries into the draw.
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May 4, 2015 06:55
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Gareth Gobulcoque! YOU won the Save the Whales annual prize! Please PM me, or email me at my user name at gmail dot com. I like to ask a few questions before I put together the prize choices.
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May 9, 2015 06:35
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Whales Got Saved and now it's time for this year's winner of the Saving the Whales prize, Gareth Gobulcoque, to pick his prize! As in past years, I have exchanged emails with Gareth to get a sense of his miniature desires and preferences. Based on that, I have put together the following options. Gareth, please pick one option! If anything about any option is unclear, just ask. If you want a close-up photo of any mini included, I'd be happy to provide it. OK! OPTION ALPHA ONE set of minis is included in this set! The Official Advanced Dungeons & Dragons Set number 5500, "Fighters, Rangers & Paladins", by TSR, from 1983!  It includes everything you see here:  Three of the minis are modestly damaged, in that their weapons have been clipped off by a previous owner. Shouldn't be too difficult to pick something else to stick in their hands, though! While there are splashes of paint on a few models, it's nothing thick, so you can basecoat right over them if you don't feel like stripping them.    OPTION BETA TWO sets of minis are included in this option! First off we have an incomplete set of the official Champions set 4002, "Super Villains", by Grenadier miniatures from 1984!  These are the minis that were originally included in this set:  Unfortunately, the original owner seems to have lost several of them. What you actually get are these minis:  From left to right: Wyvern, Sunburst, Cobra, Lazar, The Fox (later renamed to Foxbat), Utility, Lady Blue, and Mind Slayer. These minis are undamaged, although Mind Slayer has been (badly) painted. That's basically basecoating of some acrylic paint or another: it's not on there too thick, but you may want to strip it before repainting. I'd be very surprised if this was undercoated so it's probably a single layer of poor-quality 1980s acrylic that should come off very easily. ALSO INCLUDED IN OPTION BETA is this complete set of Grenadier Models' Advanced Dungeons & Dragons set 2010: Denizens of the Swamp, circa 1980!  This set is complete, but without the original box. A couple of the models have minor damage: once again, weapon clips. Figure A is missing his sword, and the tip of Figure D's weapon/staff is missing.  They've also been painted, badly, mostly with a layer of green paint. The darker green has been thinned to a wash-like consistency, but it has a glossy sheen that may indicate it's an enamel. Because it's thin, you could choose to paint right over it; alternatively, it shouldn't be too difficult to strip.  OPTION GAMMA TWO sets of minis are included in this option! First up we have the DC Heroes "The New Teen Titans AND ADVERSARIES" set 9502, from Grenadier, circa 1985!  This boxed set is complete, including everything you see here:  AND, the models are unpainted and undamaged!  To round out OPTION GAMMA, I am throwing in these four, unassorted and unidentified miniatures, all from the 1970s or 1980s!  There's this elfy looking dude or perhaps dudette, sporting a mowhawk and some really big feet:    There's this dashing pirate, which might be non-lead pewter based on the brighter color of the metal:   Then we have this somewhat primitive, but interestingly sculpted and posed Hairy Vampire, who is probably right in the middle of turning into a bat!   And finally, there's this Gnome or Halfling lady, wearing some sort of gi or ninja-like outfit: This photo shows her fairly neutral expression best:  While this one due to tricks of the lighting makes her look a bit sad:   OPTION DELTA TWO sets of minis are included in this option! First we have the Marvel Superheroes Set #2, (5372) from TSR, circa 1984!  This incomplete set includes every miniature you see here, except Storm, which was apparently lost by the original owner:  As you can see, Wolverine has a bit of paint on him, basically a basecoat of almost definitely acrylic.   In all fairness some of these sculpts are kind of bad. Iron Man's face is particularly awful looking. But hey! These are a bunch of famous X-Men and Avengers! There's value here just from the iconic figures, and some of them are decent minis.     To round out OPTION DELTA, I am throwing in this blister pack of "Priests and Sorcerer" P-2, from Broadsword Miniatures, which has NO online reference I can find, but my copy of Armory's 1983 catalog includes it, so it must be '83 or earlier:  This is a sealed pack, but I have done my best to photograph the actual models inside: two cool looking priests and one sorcerer man!      Or, if you aren't in love with any of these options, there is always the fallback option: OPTION OMEGA A $30 gift certificate from the online retailer of your choice! :tenbux::tenbux::tenbux: Gareth Gobulcoque, make your choice!
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May 20, 2015 03:15
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