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...the surprise in your cereal box... I will be a darkwing bike! (That's what naked wings with a tracker seat are called right?) As mentioned in the what did you do to your ride thread, I sold my previous project XS500 in order to help my brother out and bought his Goldwing. It has bitchin' blue flames everywhere. Seriously, everywhere. The fake tank:   The side covers:  The removed front fairing:   The side cases and top case:   Sadly, my brother never took any pictures of the bike when he bought it - in it's glorious assembled touring state. The paint is also a serious 5m job - up close it's awful, flaking in places and where the PPO removed the badging, non-existant (as seen on the side covers). So I am now the proud owner of a 1981 Honda Goldwing. The 80 through 83 'Wings have a 1085cc flat 4. Wassup boxer crew. As near as I can tell, it's the interstate sub model due to the fairings & luggage. 60kW @ 7000rpm and 88Nm @ 5500rpm. So it should do well for bombing around town. My brother removed the fairings and luggage - a move I fully support. I'm to young for a fully tarted up Goldwing. A naked one on the other hand - that I can deal with. I like muscle cars, so why not a muscle bike. As Colin Chapman said, "Simplify and add lightness". I've been able to do a full inventory on it this past weekend and should have it street legal and 100% safe by the end of the coming long weekend (Victoria Day for the non-Canadians among us goons). Assuming of course my new tachometer cable shows up. This is what the gauge cluster looks like with the bike running:  In addition to the busted tach cable, the choke likes to slowly back itself back in as soon as it's engaged. Which makes warming the bike up a challenge. The speedometer reads 85km/h when I'm going a GPS indicated 100km/h. The air filter looks like this:  The grips are shot and easily removable by hand without any effort:  And the factory air suspension is shot. It needs all fluids changed as well as all filters. The carburettors need syncing BADLY. Now to decide between the CarbTune and Motion Pro SyncPro. Luckily it came with a big box of spare parts. Both throttle cables, clutch cable, fuel filter & oil filter. But wait, it gets even better. You can almost eat off the engine (totally leak free):    It fires right up every time, idles perfectly both cold and warm (as long as I'm physically holding the choke while cold). Rides incredibly well for how old it is and considering the state of the suspension. The brakes work well, as does the transmission / shifting. The bike is complete. So what's the plan then? Well I have this seat from my former bike:  Unfortunately, it doesn't fit. The seat is only 15cm wide up front and the frame is 20cm wide at the back of the faux tank. The manufacturer of this seat does make one just like it for my model of goldwing though. So as soon as this seat sells, I'll buy the new one. In the mean time I am stuck riding on this:  Which is comfy as all hell, but makes me look like: a) An old man b) Suffer from haemorrhoids c) Makes the back half of the bike look absolutely dreadful due to the stock rear fender, tail light and blinkers  I also have a pair of Renthal streetfighter bars I picked up on boxing day, those are going on this weekend along with new rubber grips (assuming I can find a pair locally), fork turn signal adapters and LED turn signals up front. The fairing had all of that integrated. If I can't get grips locally, Randakks has a pair specifically for the GL1100's for $20. In addition, I also have to wire up the headlight which shouldn't be that big of a deal since I have a digital copy of the FSM which includes the bikes wiring diagram and female H4 pigtails can be found at any Partsource and Napa. While swapping the bars, I'll replace all cables, change the oil in both the crank case and final drive. Double check the brake fluid. Adjust everything that can be and try and find a place that sells a 4 cylinder carb balancing tool locally. With that, stage one should be complete. Stage two will be the Hotwing Glass Darkwing 2 seat, smaller front fender and a full satin purple vinyl wrap (thus honouring the Darkwing Duck theme of the thread). DRC edge tail light and another pair of LED turn signals for the rear. As well as replacing the rear air suspension with regular shocks and removing the air system entirely from the bike. More progress as it is made. McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 03:35 on May 15, 2014 |
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May 15, 2014 02:45
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 14:02 |
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I feel as though I should tell my FB friends to spend $10 just to see this. The flames- they are glorious.
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May 15, 2014 03:39
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Plan on replacing the timing belts, unless you're dead certain they've been done. (The condition of the air filter suggests otherwise.)
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May 15, 2014 13:59
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I fully condone and support this project. Might I suggest Darkwing Duck as the bike's mascot?
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May 15, 2014 14:00
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Naked wings best wings, youre doing a good thing here
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May 15, 2014 14:10
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hahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa I can't wait for us to go riding together. We're going to be the weirdest odd couple.
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May 15, 2014 19:29
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i peeped your profile and saw you're in St-Albert. I'm in Edmonton and i have a carbtune. pm me if you want maybe we can work something out. i don't want to outright lend it though. i've had bad experiences in the past with expensive tools not being returned after lending them.
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May 15, 2014 23:17
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DrakeriderCa posted:hahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa Would that make you... DrakeMallardRiderCA?
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May 16, 2014 00:12
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Ola posted:I fully condone and support this project. Might I suggest Darkwing Duck as the bike's mascot? Oh right...that's where the thread title is from...  I'm severely lacking in cultural references.
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May 16, 2014 07:37
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Ola posted:Oh right...that's where the thread title is from... Your post specifically mentioning the mascot did remind me that I should buy a plush purple mallard who fights crime. Luckily they're still semi available, so when I order the vinyl I'll order the duck as well. In project news, hitting the local family owned motorcycle shop for mirrors and grips.
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May 16, 2014 16:14
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DrakeriderCa posted:hahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa dear god. The "Blue Flame" wing and a Chinese enduro. That would be fantastic.
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May 16, 2014 17:24
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I feel obligated to mention that DW's motorcycle is called the Ratcatcher. Thunderquack would be acceptable, as well.
KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 21:22 on May 16, 2014 |
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May 16, 2014 21:19
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KozmoNaut posted:I feel obligated to mention that DW's motorcycle is called the Ratcatcher. Thunderquack would be acceptable, as well. Way to go spoiling the big name reveal - of course it'll be named the Ratcatcher once it's done. Progress has been made. Sadly not as much as I would have liked. I totally forgot that next weekend the local GT class races with the NASCC start - so I spent most of Sunday getting a Smoky and the Bandit Trans Am themed chump / IT2 FC RX-7 ready for it's season. That meant that due to family obligations I only had a few hours today to work on the bike. Plus my mirrors and tach cable haven't shown up yet. I started with a list:  No garage is complete without a chalk board / big fuckoff white board. This one was painted on and measures 4m by 1.5m. Best $10 I ever spent (In the garage anyway). I spent the first two hours running around town gathering supplies so I was ready to tackle as much on the to do list as possible as time allowed.  The air filter, oil filter and handlebar grips I picked up on Friday. The self adjusting wire strippers, ratcheting crimper's, H4 pigtail,heat shrink terminal connectors and clear heat shrink tubing were today's spoils. Power Fist is the best brand name out there. The first item to get tackled were swapping the handlebars over to the Renthal Streetfighers.  Very straightforward with the only gotcha being the left hand light switch having a metal alignment nipple on the inside that had to be ground down. The throttle tube also needed 1 cm trimmed off of it to work with the new grips. The cables will need "shortening" via some creative re-routing but it appears to be a trivial task which I will tackle when I go through and wire the lights/ label the rats nest that was hiding behind the 5kg fairing counter weight. Said rats nest:  The large harness dead centre between the forks below the lower tree will be moved up and be hidden by the headlight. All wires will be labelled and tidied. I'm on the fence as to where I want my turn signals. I'll consult the traffic act and double check if there are any height restrictions to the signals location. You may have noticed a big ball of electrical tape handing off the left fork below the top triple tree. Zoom & Enhance:  I noticed this when I originally purchased the bike, however wasn't sure if it was connected to anything and didn't want to disrupt a running motorcycle that I had to ride home at the time. Plus I only had my cell phone camera on me. Now though - let's settle my curiosity. Off come the zip-ties:  6 layers of electrical tape & two layers of medical tape later I still have't figured out what it was. Yes, that is now a few layers of hockey tape  . It was not wired to anything and had zero charge / minimal electrical resistance.Finally I am greeted with this:   It's for/from a CB750 and it looks like a speaker. WTF? I'll try and wire it up to a signal source soon and figure out if it actually is. It hasn't been tossed yet. I wonder what else I will find? At this point I was running out of time, so I played around with headlight placement and I think I found an acceptable height:  It's basically sitting flush with the bottom of the gauge cluster shroud and looks like it belongs there. Once I can clean up the wiring and move it all up - it shouldn't be too bad. Especially after the full vinyl wrap. Which the headlight will be included in.
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May 20, 2014 05:00
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The mystery speaker is the signal beeper. Supposed to beep at you when the blinkers are on. Early 'wings had them.
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May 20, 2014 05:42
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 I have never seen anything like it before. I think some of the really early ones came with a turn signal beeper, maybe that could be it?Edit: too slow, see above
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May 20, 2014 05:47
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HotCanadianChick posted:The mystery speaker is the signal beeper. Supposed to beep at you when the blinkers are on. Early 'wings had them. Thanks! That means I can safely discard it. Further progress has been made! My tach cable and LED flasher relay showed up. In order to remove/install the tach cable, the tank has to come off. If one wants to remove the tank, the seat has to come off.  A single allen/hex bolt and the seat is off. That allows access to the two rear tank bolts. With the rear tank bolts, along with a single bolt on either side of the tank removed most of the electronics as well as the fuel filler, air box and coolant reservoir become accessible.  This also greatly improves visibility of the tach cables entire run. The cable runs from between the triple tree, underneath the right hand side upper frame rail and terminates at the fuel pump:  In order the remove the tach cable, on of the two fuel pump retention bolts (the one closest to the engine) must be removed. Once removed, the cable slides out of it's housing. It also appears that I might have a small leak from around the fuel pump. I'll have to clean up that area (along with the rest of the bike really) and keep an eye on it. So out with the old:  In with the new and voilą - I have an rpm signal again!  At this point I was going to replace my signal flasher with a solid state one as well as remove the fairing connector and wire up the headlight and blinkers - alas, I ran out of time. So I will end with the areas I will be picking up with next time.  
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May 24, 2014 04:44
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Another update - no pictures this time. Oil has been changed to Rotella T6 ( hurray for cheap JASO MA synthetic). Speedo cable has been replaced. At this point I'm confident in riding it. Next on the list, final drive oil, valve adjustment and carb sync. Edit: Totally forgotten, wired up the headlight and blinkers. Replaced the flasher unit with a solid state LED compatible one. McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 03:57 on May 28, 2014 |
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May 28, 2014 03:55
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McTinkerson posted:Another update - no pictures this time. Oil has been changed to Rotella T6 ( hurray for cheap JASO MA synthetic). Speedo cable has been replaced. At this point I'm confident in riding it. Nice work! Now ride to my house on Sunday so I can thoroughly embarrass myself on the road.
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May 28, 2014 20:59
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Took it for a shakedown run. Clutch lever pull has been adjusted so that the engagement point is now in the middle of the lever throw. As opposed to the last 2mm of travel. The rear air shocks do not hold air for more than 24 hours. Unfortunate, but not the end of the world. I was going to replace them with standard "coilovers" anyway. I also have a high-ish pitch buzzing noise coming from what sounds like the guage cluster whenever the bike is in motion and the revs are above 2k rpm. I cannot remember if this was there before when I rode it home or not. There shouldn't be anything left on the bike that can make that kind of noise. Thoughts?
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May 31, 2014 04:26
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McTinkerson posted:Took it for a shakedown run. Clutch lever pull has been adjusted so that the engagement point is now in the middle of the lever throw. As opposed to the last 2mm of travel. Is it the tach? Does it have a tach? I can't remember.
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May 31, 2014 04:52
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DrakeriderCa posted:Is it the tach? Does it have a tach? I can't remember. Tach is cable driven. Cable is brand new. Goldwing forums do mention some noise as a possibility, but this one sounds electronic, not mechanical. Then again, if it's from a cable spinning at 2000 rpm - who knows.
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May 31, 2014 05:03
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McTinkerson posted:Took it for a shakedown run. Clutch lever pull has been adjusted so that the engagement point is now in the middle of the lever throw. As opposed to the last 2mm of travel. Are you sure it's not the speedo cable? That caught me out recently...
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May 31, 2014 06:24
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McTinkerson posted:Took it for a shakedown run. Clutch lever pull has been adjusted so that the engagement point is now in the middle of the lever throw. As opposed to the last 2mm of travel. I would put money on a cable. Disconnect one and see if it stops. If not try the other.
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May 31, 2014 07:19
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I lubricated both cables as well as the gauge cluster cable inputs inputs. Noise is now gone. Serves me right for not lubing new cables. In addition, the left rear blinker decided to stop blinking. Upon pulling the cover off, I was greeted with this:  Looks like the weather seal has failed some time ago. The bulb was rusted to it's socket. Some seafoam deep creep and sand paper later + a new 1156 bulb and I was back in business. At this point the bike was once again in a condition where I was confident riding it. So I took it for a 120km spin around town today. It performed well, albeit a little thirsty. It consumed a little over half a tank of fuel. I won't concern myself with that until another tank of seafoam has been run through the carbs as well as them getting synced. I've decided to buy the MotionPro SyncPro since the GF also has a CB400F that will need some adjusting soon. So that's next. Then once someone buys my Hotwing Glass Flat Tracker seat, I can start on stage two.
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Jun 1, 2014 23:36
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Subscribed. Keep up the good work with the 'wing. How has it been treating you so far?
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Jun 5, 2014 19:18
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Coredump posted:Subscribed. Keep up the good work with the 'wing. How has it been treating you so far? So far so good. Reliable - which really is all that matters at this point. I also pulls hard until red line every time. Now if I can remember to turn the petcock on before I set off, everything'll be groovy. Update! The tracker seat sold - ordering the new one tomorrow along with the satin purple vinyl. I figure 5ft x 10ft should be more than enough. In addition I added another bottle of seafoam to a fresh tank of gas.  The high pitch "buzzing" came back - further investigation on the goldwing forums indicates that the sole bushing in the tachometer has dried out. Let's see if pumping the cable input full of this will remedy it.  If not, I will consider swapping the entire cluster over to a digital unit. Digital tach signal should be doable off of one of the coils. Last but not least, despite it running well, I have't looked at the spark plugs. All four looked like this:  They smelled faintly of fuel. The gap was very "generous". I also discovered that having owned exclusively rotaries up until this point - I did not own any feeler gauges (plugs can't be gapped and there's no valves). After a trip to Canadian Tire for the appropriate tools, the gaps were all set to the FSM recomended 0.6mm. I then rode the piss out of it for another 200km.
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Jun 9, 2014 02:11
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Did you re-gap that plug instead of using new plugs?
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Jun 9, 2014 15:57
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n8r posted:Did you re-gap that plug instead of using new plugs? In the short term, I cleaned and gapped the old ones. Canadian Tire was sold out of new plugs. I'm aware that I really should have just replaced them based on the amount of electrode left.
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Jun 9, 2014 16:11
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What day is today? It's new spark plug day! The above cost less than a single iridium. There is no way Iridiums can be 4 times as good, right? The operating room:  Old and busted vs new hotness:  Not pictured, the new plugs getting copper anti-seize. The bike idles noticeably smoother now and no longer occasionally randomly snap, crackle & pops at constant rpm. At this point there won't be any more updates for a couple weeks due to parts being in transit (seat & vinyl) and me being occupied with GT class races on the weekends.
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Jun 12, 2014 04:30
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Re: Anti sieze Someone just made me aware of this today: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
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Jun 12, 2014 04:37
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astrollinthepork posted:Re: Anti sieze Well then, not doing that again. Thanks! I feel this should be plastered over all of the Goldwing forum (it currently is definitely not).
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Jun 12, 2014 04:45
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Also you never want to use iridium/platinum/etc on older bikes. Use copper only.
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Jun 12, 2014 14:05
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n8r posted:Also you never want to use iridium/platinum/etc on older bikes. Use copper only.
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Jun 13, 2014 02:00
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They recommend iridium in the buell too which apparently is old tech or something.
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Jun 13, 2014 02:35
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Yamaha/Toyota were making engines that specified platinum plugs at least as early as 1983, so that's news to me too.
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Jun 13, 2014 03:21
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n8r totally wrong and misinformed about something? While I never! 
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Jun 13, 2014 03:33
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Z3n posted:n8r totally wrong and misinformed about something? While I never! Quoted for truth also so he can see it
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Jun 13, 2014 03:44
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I don't believe there is any difference at all between iridium-plated plugs and copper-electrode plugs except that the iridium ones last longer.
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Jun 13, 2014 04:27
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I should clarify. Don't put iridium plugs onto bikes spec'd for copper. This is especially true with bikes that have easily acessed plugs.
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Jun 13, 2014 05:37
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 14:02 |
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This bike better be done the next time I'm up north.
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Jun 13, 2014 16:51
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