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Cakefool posted:Find another shop. This, again and again. It sounds like some one is to lazy just to take the poo poo to the machine shop and actually have them look at the heads. If they cant be bothered to do that, what makes you think they are going to do a decent job?
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Jul 9, 2014 21:01
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If you came into the place I used to work I would also make up excuses to not work on it.
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Jul 9, 2014 21:01
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Cakefool posted:Find another shop. Motronic posted:This isn't hard: you pull the heads and check both them and the block to see if they're straight. If the head aren't, they get sent to the machine shop to see if they can be decked far enough to be flat again within minimum spec. If the block mating surfaces aren't flat they quote you on any of the various way of fixing that, up to and including sending the block to the same machine shop to be decked flat.
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Jul 9, 2014 21:12
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jamal posted:If you came into the place I used to work I would also make up excuses to not work on it. I wouldn't. I'd say "absolutely not, sorry. This is the kind of work we do." If you don't want the business don't take the business. Or at least give them an "F.U. quote" that would allow you to sub the entire thing out and still make money.
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Jul 9, 2014 21:18
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Cakefool posted:Find another car. jamal posted:If you came into the place I used to work I would also make up excuses to not work on it. You're obviously not very mechanically inclined, and because of this it can go one of three ways: 1) you find a shop that will take this on, and they proceed to ride you for all you're worth because you don't know what you need and what you don't. 2) the shop doesn't want to work on it because you're a high risk customer, and for some reason you keep missing the point that they don't want to take on this job so they keep your car on back burner in the dark corner of the shop until you go away. 3) you end up with a mediocre car and a mediocre engine and you're out $7k.
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Jul 9, 2014 21:21
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I call BS on the fuckt block. These blocks were converted to gas and then shoved up the rear end in a top hat of a dragster to live out the rest of its days one quarter at a time.
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Jul 9, 2014 21:41
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Buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cadillac-El...=US_Cars_Trucks
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Jul 9, 2014 22:27
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mafoose posted:Fixed. If he wants to fix the car and it can be fixed properly do that rather than buying some more problems.
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Jul 10, 2014 14:17
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This is looking like the best option at this point. (I do lose the diesel, but I get to keep the same model car, I don't pay for an engine swap, and I have a parts car)
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Jul 10, 2014 23:12
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Hahaha the HT4100 what a joke of a V8. Seriously don't buy that. Wikipedia posted:The HT4100 was prone to failure of the intake manifold gasket due to scrubbing of the bi-metal interface, aluminum oil pump failure, cam bearing displacement, weak aluminum block castings and bolts pulling the aluminum threads from the block. It may not have been the most successful engine to sit under the hood of a Cadillac, but potential buyers were no more satisfied with the other two engines available at the time, the V8-6-4 and the Oldsmobile 5.7 L Diesel. Reliability issues soiled the reputation of the HT4100. As a result, the V8 Oldsmobile gas engines were a popular and straightforward conversion. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadillac_High_Technology_engine \/ I did. KennyLoggins fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jul 11, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 23:57
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KennyLoggins posted:Hahaha the HT4100 what a joke of a V8. You did read the first post where he says he has an '81 Caddy diesel, right? Sounds like an upgrade.
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Jul 11, 2014 00:11
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Out of the choices I'd go with a 305 over a HT4100 or the 5.7 Diesel. Did they ever make the 4.3L diesel in RWD? I know the FWD A-Bodies (6000, Century, Celebrity & Cutlass Ciera) got them and they were actually good.
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Jul 11, 2014 00:29
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Ring around and find a new shop, tell them what's wrong, ask if they'll look at it. Surely this is the best option?
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Jul 11, 2014 10:17
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KennyLoggins posted:I know the FWD A-Bodies (6000, Century, Celebrity & Cutlass Ciera) got them and they were actually good. Not hard to make em good when the same body style was being rolled out as A-body El Caminos, Monte Carlos, Malibus, and Grand Nationals
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Jul 11, 2014 10:19
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Surprised no one has suggested an LSx swap yet. But yeah I'd be looking for other shops willing to fix the motor you already have.
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Jul 11, 2014 16:28
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leica posted:Surprised no one has suggested an LSx swap yet. Tommychu posted:Make that engine go away. Whoever told you those engines last needs to be shot (yes they can last if you babysit it and have lots of disposable income, but at that point it's still a horrible engine on a good day). LM7/LQ4 it, or 6.2/6.5 or Duramax if you wanna stay Diesel. Olds gas 350 or 455 if you don't want to gently caress with adapter plates. It was literally the first thing I suggested.
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Jul 11, 2014 16:38
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Not an LS, but yeah forgot about the LM and missed that. I agree though, an LM7 can be had cheap as dirt and would probably get better mileage anyway, never mind the fact with a custom exhaust would sound completely badass and be the most badass Eldorado ever. poo poo it would probably be cheaper than fixing the original motor.
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Jul 12, 2014 17:26
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If anything, the 6.0 can be had pretty cheap too. It puts out a ton of torque and bolts in place of the 5.3 too. But if its weight thing too, there's some years of trailblazers and Sierras/Silverados that came with a 5.3 HO aluminum V8 too.
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Jul 12, 2014 19:41
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I am emotionally invested in the OP fixing the drat motor and rolling in a diesel caddy.
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Jul 12, 2014 20:53
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Hi folks. Currently on shop number 3 here. Shop number 3 says that the bolt pattern on a 6.2 Detroit won't match the "BOP" pattern on my transmission. Is that bullshit? Is the 6.2 going to be too tall? I couldn't find any info about height of that engine from googling. I'm asking them about LSx and LM7 engines as well. Will those bolt directly to my transmission? Remember I have a transaxle. Would they be too tall or too heavy? Any specific model, year, or size of LSx or LM7 engine? Thanks again! Don't worry, I'm pretty emotionally invested in this car as well. 
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Jul 17, 2014 18:21
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Will shop 3 fix your head gasket?
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Jul 17, 2014 18:41
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Maybe check for an LS4 out of the Impala? Those bolted up to transaxles, but I'm not sure on bolt patterns.
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Jul 17, 2014 19:46
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Ls4 points the wrong way. The engine still sits like a regular rwd car. BOP still means your stuck with a Buick or a Pontiac motor. 350 olds had decent grunt, that might be the route to go down unless this shop actually checks the heads.
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Jul 17, 2014 22:07
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Ls4 points the wrong way. The engine still sits like a regular rwd car. Didn't realize that. If you need a BOP... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_301_Turbo
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Jul 17, 2014 22:31
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Ls4 points the wrong way. The engine still sits like a regular rwd car. No reason you couldn't turn the LS4 longitudinally, but you do run into the problem of transmissions since it doesn't use the Chevy OR the BOP V8 bellhousing pattern - it uses the same pattern as the 60 degree V6. So you can play a game of inter-brand Lego that would make kastein proud... at least if this was going into something RWD. With that said, Chevy and BOP patterns aren't miles apart and are pretty easy to convert between. This would've been necessary for a 6.2/6.5 swap as well.
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Jul 17, 2014 22:54
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That guy is actually wrong, the V6 Dakota mantrans bellhousing puts a smallblock mopar in front of that trans, not a 60 degree Chevy. To put an LS4 V8 with the 60 degree Chevy pattern in front of that transmission he's talking about, you'd use the 96-?? 4cyl Dakota bellhousing for a manual or the 87-90 4cyl Comanche bellhousing, torque converter, and possibly entire front half of the transmission if it's an auto. But that's neither here nor there... As others have said, the BOP pattern limits you to either a Buick/Olds/Pontiac engine of the right era, or an adapter plate and then you have the SBC/LS series (they're one bolt apart, people either drill and tap the spot or just ignore it) 90 degree pattern that will fit drat near anything people drop in Chevies. Since this shop actually mentioned the BOP pattern, I would recommend going with them if you go through with this, as they seem to not only either know what they're talking about or have some idea how to research this stuff on the internet, but also be interested in doing their homework before giving you an answer, unlike the other shops. e: wait, WTF? Just realized that guy is doubly wrong. A W series uses the AX5 transmission face pattern, no Dakota bell will bolt to it, but a 4cyl mantrans 87-95 Jeep Wrangler bellhousing would do exactly what he claims. A 4cyl Dakota bellhousing would work if his buddy's truck actually has an R series Toyota transmission, which is a lot more believable, as they have a torque rating that's almost what the LS4 puts out, while a W or G series transmission would probably explode if you looked at it funny. I'm not sure what you'd use for a clutch setup with such a combination but IIRC a 3800 V6 Camaro pilot bearing and clutch disc are involved, I haven't researched the pressure plate, TOB, or flywheel enough to say with any certainty yet. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jul 17, 2014 |
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Jul 17, 2014 23:03
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Jesus Christ this just sounds like a huge can of worms. If you can't get anyone to fix the heads get rid of it and move on or you'll be spending way too much money on it and hating yourself later.
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Jul 18, 2014 01:17
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Why? Aside from not being able to do it himself, it sounds pretty easy. SBC pattern engine of choice BOP to SBC adapter plate http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy-to-BOP-Transmission-Adapter-Plate,3281.html or http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/60170/10002/-1?parentProductId=751074 depending on which you like the look of more (one has nuts welded on to make putting the bellhousing bolts into it easier) custom mounts (anyone with half a brain, 1/4" plate, a drill press/angle grinder, and a welder can make these) - might not even be needed, I don't know chevy stuff that well splice the whopping 5 wires or whatever that go to the motor, swap the coolant temp and oil pressure senders over hook up coolant hoses at worst, have some power steering hoses made hook up alternator and starter hook up fuel lines if necessary, install electric fan or find a way to swap the original radiator fan onto the new motor if the new one won't fit in the old shroud (it might, again, I don't know chevy that well) hook up or adapt throttle cable and air intake box or pancake filter. This may not even be more than "install new pancake filter housing along with the engine it came on" Exhaust poo poo Starter motor and flexplate concerns, if it's not just bolt-together aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand probably done. There will of course be some wonky things, maybe a custom oil pan to clear something, aircon lines/compressor, etc, but engine swaps are really not that difficult, especially staying "in the family" with the same basic block configuration (V8 vs V8.) Hell, the only reason I haven't volunteered to help for the hell of it is I'm 3000 miles away and don't have enough vacation time to just toss it around like that.
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Jul 18, 2014 01:29
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I meant in terms of having a shop do it, which none of the ones mentioned sound too sure of themselves, and as a result the costs could start getting out of hand.
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Jul 18, 2014 01:57
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