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panascope posted:So Noctis Horrendae is forbidden from posting here right? DO NOT SAY HIS NAME, FOOL Actual content! I finished up some more 'Crons a bit back, was waiting for the shitstorm to abate before posting. One of the Stalkers ended up a little more pink than I intended, purple is a hard color to get right when you're working with nothing but the two old purple shades and a wash. Also, yes that is a cutting board, it was the closest thing to a tray I could find on a short notice and worked well color-wise!
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May 23, 2014 16:15
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PierreTheMime posted:Nice scheme and good execution. Are you using those scarabs as objective markers or something? Wound markers. Multi-wound things like HQ units, spyders and occasionally wraiths are accompanied by individual scarabs. When it takes a wound, I remove a scarab, when there's no scarabs to remove and it takes a hit it's dead. Also, thank you!
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May 23, 2014 17:04
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Speaking of the new psychic powers, it occurred to me that technically, Grey Knight vehicles are psykers, too, and therefore now contribute to your psychic dice pool. It's a shame they can't generate other powers instead of their built-in psychic powers, since I find the mental image of a squadron's worth of Rhinos running around casting pyromancy boombooms and the Vortex of Doom hilarious. (We'll have to wait and see ho they FAQ that of course.. if they ever get around to it)
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May 24, 2014 08:58
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twistedmentat posted:
It's not a board game, but there's Space Hulk: Death Angel by FFG, a 40K non-collectible card game. Basically it's a cooperative version of Space Hulk - there's a separate event deck that determines when and where the genestealers spawn and move, and each player controls one or two pairs of Terminators. It's for one to six players, and it's designed to scale to the number of players - it's actually HARDER the more players you start with, because 'stealers spawn in larger numbers and big packs WILL gently caress up a terminator unless you Deal With It. It's also got plenty of replay value, I think, because the 'route' you take through the Sin of Damnation hulk changes every time you play - there's a semirandomized series of 'room cards' for every playthrough that have slightly different environs and sometimes special effects. Each playthrough also only takes about five minutes to set up and 'theoretically' about half an hour to play through - though in my experience we usually end up debating tactics and bantering so much around the table that that stretches to an hour or two. It's also very nice for getting newbies into the game since it's cooperative, the enemies play themselves so the other players can help them along without the newbie feeling like they're getting smished by everyone else. The stock box is twenty-five bucks, and there's a few expansions for it at five bucks apop: Mission Pack 1 (Adds a new set of alternative room cards and a new 'adrenaline genestealer' enemy) Marine Pack 1 (Adds two new Marines and their battle brothers, Terminator Chaplain Raziel and Brother Metraen with a goddamned cyclone rack  The stock game comes with six sets of a Marine and his Tyranid Pack (replaces the standard Genestealer blip deck with various Tyranid creatures with special powers, and replaces the final rooms with 'boss battles' against powerful Tyranid beasts) Deathwing Pack (Replaces the stock Blood Angels with an all-new roster of twelve Dark Angels - I have this set but haven't yet gotten to try them out so I don't know how effective they are, but they look interesting) Edit: Here's a link. Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Jun 7, 2014 |
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Jun 7, 2014 00:07
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twistedmentat posted:Ugh the Multimelta on my redeemer broke off and even thought I can glue is easily, it breaks off every time i transport it. Is the hatch it's attached to glued into its socket? I tend to leave that not glued for ease of transport (also, easier to mark a destroyed weapon when you can just pluck it off)
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Jun 7, 2014 20:32
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twistedmentat posted:drat, I should have done that. Welp, next time I'll remember to do that. Did you use superglue or plastic glue? If the latter you're poo poo outta luck, if the former plonk the whole thing into the freezer for a few hours - sub-zero temperatures make the moisture trapped in cyanoacrylate glue expand and turn it brittle. Won't need much elbow grease to take it off at that point. Disclaimer: Of course the freezer treatment will make OTHER superglue joints just as brittle..
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Jun 7, 2014 23:55
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Finally got around to putting together the Land Speeder from a Ravenwing pack I bought some time ago and JESUS gently caress this old Land Speeder sprue. Had to mummify the fucker in rubber bands to make the top part fit halfway right while the glue set. Least I had a spare heavy flamer to make a MM/HF speeder..
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Jun 9, 2014 00:36
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Four goddamned Fire Prisms?
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Jun 10, 2014 07:06
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The Sisko posted:So this Saturday will both my first game of 7th edition and my little brothers first game of 40k. Hes read over his codex and the main rulebook several so he has a grasp of the core rules but we haven't had time to actually play a game .I was thinking of bringing my CSM to face off against his Crimson Fists not only for thematic purposes but also CSM bring alot of varied things to the table (i.e Flyers, FMC'S, lots of challenges) so that he'll have wider sense of how units and special rules interact with each other. Or should I bring my Space Wolves and we just get the basics (ie. move,psychic, shoot, assualt phases) till he knows it by memory? Yeah, I agree, go with the Wolves. Fewer special rules, fewer things to keep in mind - just all-around easier for him to get into the game. You can go into more complex armies and unit/rule combinations later when he's got a better handle on the system. Also props for getting your brother into the hobby, never too many hams (unless it's a smelly/terrible ham)
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Jun 10, 2014 08:22
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Cataphract posted:yeah, make it simple as possible. This is pretty much exactly what I was going for. Actually using the various starter boxes as 'inspiration' wouldn't be a bad idea; Disregarding what is actually useful and what isn't in, say, Dark Vengeance, there's a handful of different unit types in there so there's some tactical variation (Assault on Black Reach gave the orks jetbikes and Marines got the dreadnought, Dark Vengeance gave the Dark Angels bikers while Chaos got a Helbrute..) It's not a bad idea to try and work like, a couple different unit types in there. Just make sure that whatever you put in one list has SOMETHING that can deal with it in the other; if one side gets a Dreadnought, the other should have at least a couple of dudes with meltas or other anti-tank weapons.. one side having terminators should mean the other side has at least a couple AP2 guns.. bikers or other high-toughness targets should have something with higher strength to take them out, and so on. Ideally you'd have a set of two 500-point armies you can swap back and forth every now and then to let him try different tactics.
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Jun 10, 2014 11:44
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Squifferific posted:What do you guys use for transporting your space barbies? I'm messing around on the KR Multicase site, and $180+ seems too steep for me. I use Tabletop Tyrant cases - they're pretty dang cheap compared to KR multicase ones. Link here. There's basically two sizes of cases, each has a 'cheap' and a 'pricy' variant: The 'Squire' and 'Kingmaker' cases (18 and 27 pounds, respectively, they're British) hold 131 mm worth of foam cases, so it'll fit four standard infantry trays (like the really expensive Games Worhshop ones). Squire is made out of plastic, Kingmaker out ouf a tough fabric, KM comes with a shoulder strap. Both have a plastic-reinforced bottom to make them a little bit tougher. The 'Tyrant' and 'Dreadnought' cases (41 and 65 pounds) are double-size cases, so they hold 262 mm with of foam cases (8 standard infantry trays). Both are made out of a tough fabric, the difference is that the Dreadnought has extra pockets on the outer faces and the sides of the case have been reinforced with a 5mm hard plastic plate woven into it- it's very solid and offers good protection for your minis. The prices I quoted are for the build-your-own cases - when you order one you simply pick out as many foam trays of your liking that'll fit into the case, and they''ll automatically be included in the price. They sell several different sizes of socketed trays (28mm infantry, 38mm heavy infantry, 38mm cavalry) along with different sizes of scored-pluck-foam trays (28mm, 40mm, 60mm and 100mm). You can of course also order in empty cases and a bunch of trays, but I think you'll end up with a slightly cheaper pack when you buy them together. I've got a Tyrant and a Dreadnought each and I'm very happy with them - they're much cheaper than the equivalent KR multicase ones (though they don't make those nifty trays with the exact-shaped cutouts) and really drat sturdy. All the zippers and clasps are tough and high-quality, and aside from a few loose threads on a few seams on the Tyrant, the rest of the construction is just as tough.
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Jun 10, 2014 22:08
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So I just got back from a for-fun game where I faced my Salamanders offshoot against a friend's Sentinels of Terra list. The Fists put up a valiant defense of their bastion but were simply overran by the might of not one, not two, not three, bit -six- Dreadnoughts of various classes smashing into their lines via drop pod insertion - one of my Ironclads was allowed a relatively unhindered insertion and spent turns 2-5 smashing respectively through a Thunderfire Cannon, their bastion, the bewildered remains of said bastion's defenders (including Coteaz) and a second Thunderfire Cannon, all the while simply shrugging off their return fire. MVP: Dead Guy In An Angry Metal Box. The list I had was the following: Vulkan He'Stan (190) Master of the Forge with servo harness, power axe*, digital weapons (115) Tactical Squad with 9 men, flamer, sergeant combi-melta*, meltabombs in a Rhino (181, Vulkan rides with them) Tactical Squad with 9 men, flamer, sergeant combi-melta* in a Rhino (176, MotF rides with them) Storm Talon Gunship with Skyhammer Missiles (115) Land Speeder with heavy flamer and multimelta (70) Land Speeder with heavy flamer and multimelta (70) Ironclad Dreadnought with seismic hammer, dreadnought close combat weapon, meltagun, Ironclad Assault Launchers in a Drop Pod with Deathwind Launcher (205) Ironclad Dreadnought with seismic hammer, dreadnought close combat weapon, meltagun, Ironclad Assault Launchers in a Drop Pod with Deathwind Launcher (205) Dreadnought with multi-melta and heavy flamer in a Drop Pod (145) Dreadnought with multi-melta and heavy flamer in a Drop Pod (145) Dreadnought with two pairs of twin-linked autocannons (120) Dreadnought with two pairs of twin-linked autocannons (120) Total 1847 p We played on a heavily developed urban-type board with plenty of ruined buildings and narrow lines of movement. We played the Maelstrom of War mission 6, 'Deadlock', where players start with six active tacos that 'decay' overtime - you start each of your turns with one less objective available to you. Deployment zones were corner versus corner, where he arrayed his Bastion, the parapets manned by Coteaz and a squad of lascannon devastators, flanked by a pair of Thunderfire Cannons, with a nearby reinforced ruin manned by sniper Scouts while his two-librarian Command Squad was left in the backfield. I responded by deploying everything that wasn't forced to start in reserve (the drop pod dreads and the Storm Talon, that is) behind various ruins at the edge of my deployment zone near his Bastion, ready to advance. I won't go for the blow-for-blow, but the highlights included, in no particular order: Coteaz' 12" 'gently caress you' bubble, powered by four lascannons with Prescience more often than not, severely disrupting my plans to simply deepstrike in my Dreadnoughts to neutralize his Bastion; I was forced to deploy the dreadnoughts slightly further away from the Bastion, which denied them the use of thier most effective ranged weapons (meltaguns) against the priority target A squad of fist Sternguard podding in between my Rhino squads and shooting their wheels from under them, before being murderized by return fire from the two squads The Rifleman dreadnoughts barraging a ridiculous amount of suppressive fire at Coteaz and his devastators, picking off Marine after Marine from the parapets; Consequently, the riflemen drew lascannon return fire for three turns before being neuralized, four twinked lascannons HURT against AV12 One of my Ironclad Dreadnoughts tromping along the back end of the board, removing key targets with judicious use of meltagun and seismic hammer; S10AP1 close combat attacks are quite capable of smashing open a Bastion with enough incentive. Both Land Speeders failing to hit the GIANT loving BUILDING despite having twin-linked multimeltas thanks to Vulkan, and being in turn obliterated by TFC fire The other Ironclad Dreadnought being immobilized by the command squad's meltaguns on turn two, and continuing to happily roast Scouts with its heavy flamer until turn 5 - it ended up stuck in position directly under the Scouts' building, and the enemy tactical squad that entered play near it missed with all their meltas. The pod for said Ironclad ended up bagging almost a full squad's worth of Marines thanks to judicious Deathwind fire. An enemy Vindicator entering play, spending two turns chasing my near-wrecked Rhino (drat thing lost its gun and engine, proceeded to reboot the engine on a successful self-repair roll on the next turn, and limped back and forth over the back field capturing objectives), then lobbing a Demolisher shell at the drop pod mentioned previously and its dread; of course the shot scattered wildly, clipping a melee with his command squad and one of my dreadnoughts and splattering his warlord Librarian all over the battlefield before Vulkan could close in and claim his prize in challenge. The drop pod was also clipped by the explosion but, as irony demands, was unharmed. Said Vindicator bullseying one of the MM/HF dreadnoughts from the behind, followed by a 'Congratulations, your demolisher shell just made him mad' as the now-shaken Dreadnought decided 'gently caress my guns' and smashed into his command squad, killing three. The two MMHF dreadnoughts getting prime shots at the previously mentioned termie librarian and naturally flubbing their shooting attacks because it's a loving melta and never hits. One of my MM/Hf pods scattering 11" and directly into Coteaz' gently caress-you bubble; the pod was vaporized by four lascannon shots while the Dreadnought beat a hasty retreat out of the deathbubble. My Storm Talon coming in on turn 3 and, thanks to lack of enemy AA fire, killing half his command squad, his Rhino with half a Tac squad in it, and the Vindicator over the next couple of turns; the last achieved by basically a midair handbrake turn that saw the 'Talon drop down from zoom into hover mode, whirling from facing the front of the Vindicator into drilling a full salvo up its rear end. One of my tactical squads walking past the enemy drop pod and the Sergeant smashing it with his combimelta; of course the drat thing exploded 6" and killed two Marines in the squad. I swear, stock drop pods kill more people when they die than when they shoot. The game ended on turn 5 at 8-7 with me getting Slay the Warlord and Linebreaker and him getting Linebreaker and First Blood. It was a really close game - what ended up deciding the game was the scattered Vindicator shot that took out his Warlord and triggered my Assassinate taco card, bringing me up by two from 6 points. Would've loved to get Vulkan into a duel with the Librarian but apparently it was not to be. Drop podding four angry Dreadnoughts into his deployment zone seemed to work as a lovely pressure tactic; first turn the Ironclads came in, followed by the MM/HF ones on the second, and third saw the Storm Talon finally take into the sky. Coteaz' 12" bubble of doom, however, made entering the area directly adjacent to the bastion hazardous at best. In the future I intend to upgrade the list by adding pods; I'm going to try and skin off some of the fat to fit in a Command Squad in a pod for Vulkan and the Master of the Forge to join. Replacing the Rhinos with drop pods would give me total seven pods and allow a nice alpha strike of all four podded Dreadnoughts coming in at the same time.
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Jun 11, 2014 22:55
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Sulecrist posted:I believe a Skyhammer Stormtalon is 125 points? Cool battle report though! Take pictures next time! Yes it is, mistyped it there but yes I paid 125p for it! And I will! Had a lot of fun, this was my second 'real' game of 7th edition. Think they finally nailed vehicle damage, the Land sPeeders could take a few hits but still went down pretty easily (think I'll shave them from the list) while the Dreadnoughts, especially the Ironclads, could absorb a surprising amount of punishment. When they weren't being shot at by 4 twin-linked lascannons that get to reroll armor pens.
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Jun 12, 2014 05:37
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Made up a new version of the list I played with last night: Salamanders 1850 Drop The Dread (Battle-Forged) Codex: Space Marines (Salamanders Chapter Tactics - * signifies a master-crafted weapon) 1848 points HQ (530 points): Vulkan He'Stan (190) Master of the Forge with combi-melta* (100) Command Squad with 2 power fists and storm shields, apothecary upgrade, and two meltaguns in a Drop Pod (240) Troops (183 points): Tactical Squad with 6 models, sergeant combi-melta*, meltagun, melta bombs in a Drop Pod (144) Tactical Squad with 6 models, sergeant combi-flamer*, flamer, melta bombs in a Drop Pod (139) Elites (410 points): Dreadnought with multi-melta and heavy flamer in a Drop Pod (145) Dreadnought with multi-melta and heavy flamer in a Drop Pod (145) Dreadnought with two pairs of twin-linked autocannons (120) Fast Attack (125 points): Storm Talon Gunship with skyhammer missiles (125) Heavy Support (500 points): Dreadnought with two pairs of twin-linked autocannons (120) Ironclad Dreadnought with seismic hammer, meltagun, power fist, heavy flamer, ironclad assault launchers in a Drop Pod (190) Ironclad Dreadnought with seismic hammer, meltagun, power fist, heavy flamer, ironclad assault launchers in a Drop Pod (190) The good thing is that I actually have all of that save for three drop pods (and everything except the Command Squad is painted). The bad thing is that I worry a little about the relatively low number of actual Troop models - twelve Marines and two drop pods aren't exactly difficult to neutralize most of the time. That said, everything else DOES score thanks to 7th edition - this is more than likely a list that focuses on smashing the hell out of the other army at relatively short distances rather than, you know, sitting on objectives. The idea is, afterall, that the 1st turn drop pod rain releases four angry fighty dreadnoughts to smash something important. Vulkan's squad and the two Tactical squads should follow in the next few turns to hold objectives and do other Marine-y poo poo while the dreads do what they do best. The other thing I worry about is that the only things that I'll actually deploy are my rifleman dreadnoughts. That of course means that if I end up going second, the other player gets to focus all of his fire on just two models. Is it legal for me to leave them in reserve, basically leave the board empty and just walk them in when my turn begins, along with the rain'o'pods? If I go first it's not an issue, of course, but you know.. Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 09:26 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 09:11
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Cataphract posted:correct, you may now keep your entire force in reserve if you please. However, if you end a game turn with nothing on the battlefield you still lose. Dat conversion. And that's all I needed to know - if I end up going second I'll simply reserve everyhting, so the gun dreads walk in from a table edge while my pods do their thing. If I go first I'll just start the gundreads in a nice firebase and drop the dreads in the usual pattern - typically I try to aim them in a neat cluster on one flank of the opponent's army and torch a key unit or two.
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Jun 12, 2014 11:38
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Can we not get into the whole price debate again? I agree that GW's pricing policy is poo poo, but we get the same argument every.. single.. release, and with the new release schedule it's getting old hearing the same complaints EVERY loving WEEK. In actual content, I finally caved in and ordered in an Imperial Knight (and didn't buy the Codex back when it was halfway relevant, ha!) - I'm just trying to decide which one I want to build it as. The Paladin's 2-shot battlecannon sounds pretty juicy but I'm personally leaning towards the Errant with its giant loving melta cannon - S9 melta is nothing to sneeze at, and being AP1 it should also vaporize 2+ models nicely - my usual opponents seem to like terminators and centurions so that's a definite big plus. The 'shorter' range isn't exactly an issue at 36" either. My Marines are pretty much geared towards short-range combat anyhow, so I pretty much imagine the Errant spearheading the assault with its melta cannon, stomps and D-strength chainsaw arm.
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Jun 14, 2014 00:29
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Uh, did Looted Wagons get Deffrollas before? 'Cause that seems hilariously painful with how cheap the drat things are. Space harvesters running little mans over erryday.
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Jun 17, 2014 04:59
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ghetto wormhole posted:That's not a bad conversion idea: My younger brother plays Orks and he converted his own Deffrolla - basically he took a bunch of sprue bits the right length and made them into two interlocking cylinders, covered them in spare choppas and other spiky bitz, attached the whole thing to the front of his Battlewagon with a couple spare killa kan arm bitz and painted the whole thing a blood-spackled blue. Looks like his Mek saw a big harvester and got AN IDEA. Unrelated, I'm finally heading out to pick up the Knight I ordered in. I'm planning on painting it the most  color scheme ever and want to try going with white marble with silver or gold accents over a gray superstructure - basically like the GW 'White Warden' freeblade with a little more focus color on it. Anybody wouldn't happen to have a good tutorial handy on how to paint big flat areas marble without wanting to actually blow my brains all over the ceiling?
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Jun 17, 2014 07:22
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:What codex allows you to take venerable land raiders? Dark Angels codex. If you take a Land Raider as a Dedicated Transport for Deathwing Command / Terminators / Knights, the Land raider MUST take the Deathwing Vehicle upgrade for 30 points. Deathwing Vehicle is basically Venerable rolled together with Preferred Enemy: Chaos Space Marines. Kind of a shame Ironclads can't be Venerable...
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Jun 18, 2014 13:04
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...Is the dude on the right blowing bubblegum?
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Jun 18, 2014 19:10
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The Gate posted:The SC thread is amazing to watch, from a distance. The number of goons who think that features being delayed repeatedly at a pre-alpha stage of development = terrible devs who are utterly retarded is astonishing. Whole thread is full of super entitled dicks. Be fair, a whole bunch of Star Citizen goons had high hopes for MechWarrior Online, and we know how THAt turned out. In actual content, did I mention how much I love the Imperial Knight and how big and stompy it is? For it is indeed, very big and very very stompy. Random And showing off my most recent project! Just need to finish some minor details on the two leftmost dudes and the banner and my Command Squad will be done. Woot.
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Jun 20, 2014 13:30
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:plasma pistols are so, so bad Power of inertia. Near as I figure it some editions back, that extra attack you got from an offhand pistol? Was rolled separately from the others 'cause it was done with the pistol's Strength, AP and special rules. 15 points for a plasma pistol that's essentially just +1A is bad; 15 points for a plasma pistol that ALSO makes that +1A S7AP2? Is quite a lot better. It's just that in a sterling display of geedubs foresight for rules, they haven't realized that now that pistols aren't as useful in melee as they used to be a long long time ago, they really should make 'em cheaper, too. Same thing with Dreadnoughts probably; somebody talked about how the main weapon on a Dreadnought had improved fire modes over infantry equivalents for the same guns, which made them relatively speaking more powerful. They've been streamlining the rules and cutting away 'extra' stuff like that without dropping the point costs for the units/upgrades involved. Who knows, maybe back in the day a dread with a twinlinked heavy bolter was actually playable.
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Jun 20, 2014 14:15
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Post 9-11 User posted:The "can't re-roll a re-roll" rule is officially gone now, right? Looking at the section on generating psychic powers it explicitly says to keep rolling until you generate a different power than the one you had. Works the same with stuff like the Gift Of Mutation when you roll spawn or daemon prince, (unless it specifically says you can't) right? Still can't reroll a reroll. The psyker thing is an exception since you can't have two copies of the same power and MUST roll all your mastery level powers; therefore you need to keep on rerolling until you get something you don't have already. Rerolls like master-crafted weapon with prescience and BS6+ don't stack, though, you pick one of them to use.
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Jun 20, 2014 19:56
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 I'ma just leave this here.
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Jun 26, 2014 09:58
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The Sex Cannon posted:I did hit it with some matte, but I guess I gotta do a little more. I think the photos make them shinier then they actually are, but they're still noticeable. I had a thought: what if I hit the transfers with some paint-on gloss coat (in this case, GW's 'Ardcoat) and then give them a layer or two of matte. Would that help to get rid of transfer sheen? I do my transfers by first giving the spot the transfer is going to be on a layer or two of brush-on gloss coat ('Ardcoat, yeah). Then I apply the transfer - make doubly sure you get any air bubbles out, those will end up glossy otherwise - and once it's dry, I brush on another thin layer of 'Ardcoat. Then I matte spray the whole model and the transfer sheet will be essentially invisible, like so: The idea with the gloss patch underneath is to smooth out the surface underneath. A thin layer or two of gloss essentially covers up any minor irregularities and makes for a nice smooth spot that the transfer should glom perfectly onto. The layer of gloss afterwards is to smooth out the edges of the transfer film and to 'seal' it better onto the mini. Finally the layer of matte spray will kill the shine. Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Jun 27, 2014 |
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Jun 27, 2014 17:31
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DJ Dizzy posted:Is it possible to magnetize the deathstrike missile launcher so you can also build it as a manticore? Not without using a poo poo-ton of magnets. The issue is that in addition to the launcher rack being built in an entirely different confguration (Manticore has the targeting sensor thing in the middle, plus one short rack on either side, DS has no targeting thingy and a single double-length rack) the Deathstrike missile itself actually uses some of the parts for the Storm Eagle rockets as the secondary boosters. I suppose it COULD be done, but honestly just the sheer amount of fiddly effort involved makes it very much not worth it - besides magnetizing the rack into a modular configuration you'd need to basically make the storm eagle rockets split into neat halves to build the deathstrike missile.
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Jun 30, 2014 02:02
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AgentF posted:I've done it and it's very simple if you buy duplicates of the bits that are used in both kits. Specifically you'll need the two missile rack pieces and four missile outer-halves (the halves that don't have slots in them). Mind you it might be hard to find just these particular bits considering their importance, but I was able to do so so keep your eyes peeled and check bitz stores. Well sure, if you want to go the easy route and buy extra bits.. 
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Jun 30, 2014 10:32
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Esser-Z posted:Approps of nothing, I think Orks should get a speceial rule that lets them field anyone's vehicle (or Monstrous Creature) as part of their force, because of lootin'. Macdeo Lurjtux posted:Orks had a restricted version of this rule in 3rd. I'm guessing hat since they haven't since is a sign on how it is for balancxe. Lootas could, in fact, loot heavy weapons from other Codexes, as well, with the downside that any roll of 1 on a to-hit hit one of the other Orks in the squad because, well, Orks. I'm told one of the most popular Loota configurations was a bunch of Lootas with all plasma cannons - since a to-hit of 1 also triggered Gets Hot! you tended to end up with a hilarious squad that'd poo poo plasma blasts left and right for a bit before immolating itself in a giant blue mushroom cloud.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:19
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Proletariat Beowulf posted:Hey, the wife is looking for a way to convert a Sammael riding his boss-rear end 14AV Land Speeder. Any conversion suggestions or examples? Not exactly looking to spend $30 on the LS then like $40 on the duder. SUPER NEAT TOY posted:I think the Ravenwing conversion kit thing has enough poo poo to make it convincingly. Yeah, the Dark Angels conversion sprue comes with a bunch of extra gubbins you can put on a Land Speeder, including several heavy bolters and assault cannons that make it pretty easy to make the conversion. I bought one of those Ravenwing battleforce kits that comes with like.. what, six bikes, an attack bike and a land speeder, plus three of those conversion sprues. Downside is that the speeder in that kit is one of the old sprues that's more annoying to put together than the 'modern' one - plus it only comes with the heavy bolter and multimelta. The conversion sprue has the extra guns on it, except the heavy flamer.
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Jun 30, 2014 15:52
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Whyyyyyyyy must I torture myself so? Oh, right. SO I can drop four Dreadnoughts on some poor sap's army in one go. In actual content, I got creative and this happened: Strips of 0.5mm plasticard, glued onto spare 25mm bases, with short discs cut out of a 2mm plastic rod for bolts. Took me a couple of hours to knock these together, most of the time spent figuring how to handle the plasticard - first time working with the stuff. I've since given the bolts a careful once-over with a file to get them about level and glued some sand around the numerals - they look fairly good (and will look better once painted) if a little small. I might have to get myself a bunch of extra 40mm bases to try this out a second time with.
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Jul 3, 2014 19:59
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Hot Dog Day #82 posted:God help me, I just walked into a local gaming store and bought the rules to this silly game. Prepare for a million questions about what army I should play and how all of this warhamming business works! Congrats, you chose to get into the game just AFTER a major rules update. As for what you should play, really, the big questions is what do you seem to like? Each army has its own distinct playstyle, with their own strengths and weaknesses. Do you feel like you'd want to go for a mobile army, a durable one, shooty or close-combat? Do you want to try for something that'll wreck the enemy with psychic power, or giant monsters, bigass tanks or ridiculous numbers of infantry? Want to go for a small number of highly-trained and well-equipped elite models, or a 'quantity has a quality all of its own' approach? Besides that, of course, the big question is, what looks cool and fun to you? As long as you're not one of those must-win-every-single-match-or-life-is-not-worth-living players, it's a perfectly valid approach to just pick an army that looks cool. I've got a poo poo-ton of Tyranids I haven't really played with thanks to a poor Codex (ruleset), but had a ton of fun painting.
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Jul 3, 2014 21:28
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Sistergodiva posted:Thanks! It kinda sucks that the one model I like the most is the worthless one I'd say XV8s are pretty much the bread and butter of your army as Tau - they're so very flexible and can be kitted out for anything from hunting infantry (burst cannons, flamers) to monstrous creatures (plasma rifles, missiles) to vehicles (fusion blasters). Also, the Tau Battlesuit Commander 'official' model is the Finecast one that looks like a bigger beefier XV8 - This guy - but nothing prevents you from just taking a 'spare' XV8 and painting him as a Commander. The difference is literally in that the Finecast model is wearing special XV8-05 'Enforcer' armor - if you're fine with a commander in 'regular' XV8, you can do fine with just a plastic model. (Of course that doesn't mean you can't bling him up a little!) Just to clarify, it's mentioned in the codex, but battlesuits mark their rank with helmet paint. 'Regular' shas'ui Crisis pilots (sergeant equivalents for fire warriors, actually) have helmet painted the same color as the rest of the suit, with sept markings in the usual color on the top. Shas'vre (Crisis sergeants) have helmets painted with solid sept color. Finally, Shas'o (Commanders) have helmets painted with their sept color, with 'inverted' sept markings done in the same color the rest of the suit is painted with. Example: Suit color dark blue, sept color electric blue-white (D'yanyoi) Shas'vre on the left, shas'ui in centre and right Left to right, shas'vre, shas'o, shas'ui
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Jul 4, 2014 17:12
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OB_Juan posted:
Well yeah, that's the default how they do it in the Codex, but of course you can paint them any way the hell you like! I just found ti was a pretty logical way of doing it. And yeah, Tau definitely suffer from upgrade-itis. The way you can configure them to do whatever the hell you want with wargear makes them kind of hard to teell what's going on sometime - i mean, if you're looking at most other armis, each unit has one role it's specialized towards and a couple of upgrades relating to that. With Tau you can plug in all that extra gear to alter and specialize them to do whatever. The 3rd/4th edition Tyranid codex had the same thing, I'm told, where you could plonk all sorts of biomorphs like extra armor or BS upgrades or whatever on individual models.
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Jul 4, 2014 18:14
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drgnvale posted:Rules question: In the past, a unit that had markerlights could not benefit from them itself in the same turn, since all guns were fired together. Has this changed in 7th? No. It specifically takes a networked markerlight for a unit to be able to benefit from its own markerlights - NWMLs are fired before your other weapons and those can be used to affect the rest of your shooting.
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Jul 4, 2014 18:52
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Sistergodiva posted:Thanks! Yes, that's exactly how it goes - IF you want to pain them that way. Nobody here is going to rag you about how you paint your little dudes, that's just how they're usually depicted in-universe. As for Fire Warriors squad leaders, they usually get their shoulder pad painted in the sept color, along with the helmet (if you chose to build them with the helmet on). As for the equipment, general preference for major equipment (weapons and the like) is for WYSIWYG (What you See Is What you Get), just because it makes it so much easier for both players when you can look at a dude and see what equipment he's got. I certainly like building my little men that way, and some tournaments and events require your models to be WYSIWYG. However, you shouldn't let that keep you from doing what you think is cool with them - if you really like the pulse carbine (the shorter rifle), sure, feel free to build a couple dudes with them. For minor equipment like grenade packs, naaahh, don't sweat it. Nobody's going to take THAT close a look at them, though it certainly won't hurt to have a couple with them glued on. If someone starts giving you a hard time about them, they're generally the kind of a player you really won't want to be playing with in the first place. Rules-wise, for the record, Fire Warrior teams really prefer pulse rifles (the long thin guns) for long-range firepower while pulse carbines (the shorter gun with the boxy end) are more of a Pathfinder thing (mostly because pathfinder carbines come with the markerlight, and Pathfinders get the special drone that buffs their carbine). In general you don't want to be mixing weapons, either way - it's just more effective to have one squad with all pulse rifles and one with all pulse carbines than a mixture of both in two squads. Also if you're getting XV8s and are worried about the equipment thing, those are VERY easy to magnetize if you can get your hands on small (~2mm) magnets. I have all the guns and hardpoints magnetized on my battlesuits so I can actually swap whatever guns I want onto the mini as necessary. Each suit comes with one of each gun you can actually fit on it plus a bunch of support systems, so you'll have a lot of options.
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Jul 4, 2014 21:06
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Sistergodiva posted:Thanks! Yeah I understand that I could paint them any way I want, but I really like that kind of organization stuff. I like to glue my dudes entirely together before i prime them - some people like doing it that way, some paint and then assemble, but if you use a dark primer.. well, sometimes primer interferes with the glue bonding the parts together, and nobody is going to SEE the hard-to-reach spots anyhow. Dark primer and a wash will just make them look like shadows. Up to you, though! I'm told that Necrons compliment Tau well - they're Allies of Convenience so they get some bonuses while they work together. Necrons also have what Tau do NOt have - tough, durable troops to hold objectives. Tau also have easy access to certain weapons the necrons don't (long-ranged/high-strength low-AP weapons - most Necron weapons have 24" range and mid-ish/high AP). Both are very much shooty armies (Necrons are tougher than Tau but hampered by a poor Initiative) but they still complement each other nicely - Necrons are good at sitting down and holding things while Tau are good at reaching out and -taking- them. Both are also relatively mobile with their skimmer transports and Tau jetpack suits. On the other hand, if you really want Necron melee allies, you can't really go wrong with plenty of Canoptek units - Scarabs are cheap and plentiful tarpits and eat tanks, Wraiths move fast, are surprisingly tough and shred pretty much anything that isn't a dedicated close combat unit, and Spiders are cheap monstrous creatures that support your scarabs nicely, can smash up most things in close combat and can provide you with some psychic defense.
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Jul 5, 2014 00:11
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Ignite Memories posted:I agree with SRM, kombi-skorchas really get the job done. They really do a number on things that might otherwise tarpit your manz. Armorbane means you roll 2d6 on armor penetration instead of 1d6. Killsaws (or chainfists) just have the Armorbane rule these days, but mechanically they're unchanged from 5E. You still get the bonus attack from two specialist weapons in 7E - note however that instead of needing the two SAME weapons, you now only need two weapons with the Specialist rule. That means you can, say, have a power fist and a lightning claw (or a power klaw and a killsaw) and still get the +1 A. And yes, Slow and Purposeful disallows Sweeping Advance these days.
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Jul 6, 2014 23:28
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Holy poo poo, everyone is posting cool and sexy armies - got to join in! Before anyone asks, yes the battlesuit hardpoints are all magnetized, I haven't gotten around to painting all the guns yet so I didn't include them. Had a lot of fun loving around with the Riptide bases, even though I've gone through what feels like a kilo of greenstuff while at it.
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Jul 18, 2014 11:58
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Moola posted:Dude those bases are loving awesome. Thank you! Glad you approve. Got the Trukk engine from my brother and hat it bouncing around in my bitz box for AGES, was happy to finally figure out a use for it. Rest is jus greenstuff and using everything from paper mache balls to bits of sprue for filler to save up on the 'stuff. Speckled Jim posted:Gold chat time. Who can reccomend a good gold metallic. I have gehennas gold and auric gold from the citadel range, but they are impossible to keep from seperating. In fact i havnt used them in a few months, i wouldnt be surprised if theyre beyond useless now. TheChirurgeon posted:I use the GW paints for my metallics. They do separate from time to time, but some vigorous shaking is all it takes to get them back into painting order. My standard tactic is to start with a layer of Gehenna Gold, then cover that with Auric Gold, shade with Agrax Earthshade, and then do highlights with a mix of Auric Gold, Runefang Steel, and white. The new GW metallics do like to separate, but a good long shake-and-stir seems to get them back into usable condition pretty fast. Also, the 'dry' gold - Golden Griffon - is AWESOME stuff. I paint my golden stuff by pretty much just painting it with Balthazar Gold, drybrushing Golden Griffon, washing on Seraphim Sepia and dabbing Reikland Fleshshade into the deepest recesses - depending on how shiny I want it I might give it more washes (to dim it down) or a little bit of a careful drybrush with GG to make the highlights pop more. Alternatively, for big golden areas, try painting it with Ironbreaker, give it a black wash to tone it down and a Runefang Steel drybrush to highlight it, and then just give it multiple thin washes of Seraphim Sepia, making sure the layers are 100% dry before going for the next one. Finish up with some Reikland Fleshshade in the deepest recesses. Did that for my Coteaz and he ended up pretty ballin':  
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Jul 18, 2014 12:23
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TheChirurgeon posted:Seconding this. How did you make those wonderful bases? On the Riptides? Lots and lots of greenstuff, for the most part. I figured out the rough shape of it and used greenstuff to glue a bunch of junk into the base for filler - mostly various 10-30mm paper mache balls - and once that had dried, I covered them in a layer of GS to get the shape down about right and fill up the gaps between the filler pieces - I went with a multi-tiered shape to give it some variation and give the impression of cliff formations. Once THAT had set, I just covered the whole thing in a thin layer of greenstuff to finish up the shape. After the stuff had had a little bit to cure, but not enough to set entirely, I used the flat edge of a sculpting tool to score horizontal lines - like layers in stone - into the rock formations, before breaking it up with pressing and slicing vertically to give the impression of a proper worn rocky texture. This is also the point where I made the 'ice' by simply applying a thin layer of greenstuff and smoothing it out as best as I could - I simply cut away extra from the edges to give the ice cover that jagged, cracked look. Finally, before the greenstuff had time to set, I just pressed the feet of the Riptide into the base (and applied the cracks around the foot on the ice with the tip of a sculpting tool) - with a base like this it's easier to build the base and plonk the feet on, then build the lower body up on the base itself to get a 'natural' pose. I shamelessly used texture paint (Astrogranite) on the tops of the rock formation and later, snow all over the base to hide any flaws in the greenstuff. The Tyranid hand and half a Trukk engine was just random stuff I dug up from my bits box 
Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Jul 18, 2014 |
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Jul 18, 2014 13:17
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