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Yup. Bought another car. Sometime in 2004 or so my father bought a 1994 Honda Civic DX 5 speed. Manual windows, manual steering. Teal Green. He drove it for a few years before passing it on to my brother and later my sister drove it. During Cash for Clunkers my sister ended up with a brand new Honda Insight and the Civic sat unused so I sold it to a friend of mine for $1200 and it sitting at 187,600 miles. The car has been pretty reliable for her but has developed a few issues that she decided were not worth dumping cash into the car to fix. Her parents have gifted her their old Camry and she planned to just scrap the Civic. This is a car that delivered amazing mpg for my brother and brought him and my sister a lot of joy so I offered the salvage price and bought it back for $350. The hood is pretty hosed up. I am told it came loose and flipped up on the highway. The hinges are bent and it looks like someone danced on it.   Engine bay is very clean except for leaves  Door is dented. Also does not open from the inside or lock. Someone backed into it.  Interior is pretty clean, just needs a good vacuuming.   The worst of it, the rust. I may try a basic bondo repair on this.   The front tires have decent tread but are not holding air. I plan to address this Monday. In addition the wipers went out so they have been wired with a simple on/off switch at a single speed. The car does not require the clutch to be depressed to start. STR informs me this is a simple clutch switch that is under the pedal but we were pressed for time and I couldn't access it. I may head back and pull it on Monday. The car currently has 222,199 miles. The exhaust needs to be completely replaced. So I felt the hood needed to be addressed immediately so on Thursday I hit the various Pick N Pulls around town, striking out until I came upon a '93 DX that had just recently hit the lot. I was going to start pulling what I needed then and there but the counter attendant told me the 24-26th was 50% off day and that I should wait. So I got up this morning 3 hours earlier than normal and hoped the car would be untouched. I lucked out and went to work, pulling the door and hood before my friend with a truck showed up. I scored a door with minimal damage that actually works  A hood that actually shuts along with the latch and hinges.  A new wiper motor and some headlights  I grabbed these headlights because they appeared to be brand new. They are crystal clear. There was a log of work done to the car in the glovebox and after a front end collision in March they put all new lights on. Sometime between then and the 8th of May the car met it's end.  My haul cost me $130 after the discount and I have a core voucher for $36 if I bring the parts I replace in. Current total $480. At this point, about 9:45am my plan was still to replace the door & hood and experiment with wrapping or dipping the car and attempting to flip the car for a profit. We left the lot and headed to Cars & Coffee. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 06:39 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 06:20
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Several AIers said I should swap the motor to something with balls and/or turbocharge it. STR's been a valuable resource as he once owned one of these. But I was set on just repair and flip. But about half an hour into C&C this morning, this rolled up Another 5th gen Civic DX 5 speed. But this one was a bit different.  Swapped, turboed, stanced and painted. The owner told me that after dropping $1000 on the car she'd only spent another $2000 to get it to this state and stressed how incredibly easy it was. I'd be lying if I said I didn't find this car to be neat as gently caress, stance and all. So I've maybe come around on this idea of swapping the motor. But only if I can do this on a budget. I don't want to spend more than $200 at a time on this car. I'd prefer a simple swap that doesn't require relocating motor mounts. I'm not even close to being a Honda guy so I'm not exactly sure where to start so I'd like any help AI can send my way. I think having this as a project will keep me out of trouble and keep me from loving up the 6 or the Miata too badly.
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May 25, 2014 06:50
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That looks like a great project car, especially for $350 even if it is somewhat rusty. With a little cleanup you'll have a nice car to play with or sell for four times what you paid. I can't believe that there was a Civic in that yard for more than 30 seconds before it was nothing more than a stripped body shell with even the rear quarters sawzalled off.
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May 25, 2014 07:28
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I don't have any pictures but I did some similar rust repairs on an old Escort that turned out looking pretty good. The parts Civic had been in the lot for like 10 days. Anything of use I should go back for?
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May 25, 2014 07:36
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Wiper switch, if you haven't already ruled that out as the cause of your issues with the wipers. The clutch switch is $cheap$ even brand new. Find the existing switch first, it's at the top of the pedal assembly. See if they left you a plug. But Honda didn't even start using clutch safety switches until the late 80s-early 90s (depending on model). It could be they just taped the switch when the rubber stopper (on the pedal arm) disintegrated. What engine was in that white/yellow Civic? Looks like a D16Z6 (which would be from a 92-95 EX/Si), but I haven't touched a Civic since 2006. Good find on the headlights. I'd grab an extra set of corner lights too; the originals will eventually crack and fill with water. Or you could grab the solid amber ones like that white one had - that's what I had on mine. I think I paid something like  for them (fake edit: found them on amazon).If you want to add a tach, a LX/EX manual cluster is a direct swap, no wiring modifications needed. And if you want to keep the original speedo/odometer (you do), the front half of the cluster just snaps off. A handful of screws removes it from the PCB on the back, and it lifts out. Getting the bezel out is a downright bitch without dropping the steering column, but it's doable. Don't gently caress with the needles, they break off too easy. If you want to add the LX/EX dash clock, IIRC the wiring is already there - you just need the LX/EX bezel and clock. Engine swap options, from easiest to most difficult, IIRC: D16Z6, B series non-VTEC (CR-V or Integra), B series VTEC (Integra), CR-VTEC (VTEC head on a CR-V B20B - lots of $$ if you want it to rev high and not turn insides into outsides), H series (Prelude - heaviest engine as well). e: my old Civic with the amber corners. Forgive the terrible crooked photo (and equally terrible wheels, those came with the car)  Rear shot:  All my other photos of it died in the great hard drive crash of 2007. Paid $200 for it with a fried clutch, dead battery, dead a/c, 196k, and a salvage title (friend bought it with 40k, replaced it with another car after the 2nd clutch went out). Friend helped me do the clutch, dropped a battery in it, put a cheap Monza Pacesetter exhaust on it, some cheapish wheels, and.... 6 months later, drove it into the side of a big rig.  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:27 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 08:19
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I had a '91 sedan with a B16A swap, such a fun little car. I was all ready to sell you on a B swap, but that's okay. I think your best option for a cheap swap would be a D16Y8 longblock out of a 96-00 Civic EX or a D16Z6 from a 92-95 Civic Si/EX. My preference is for the Y8, newer and slightly more powerful, both motors have VTEC. As for JDM options, you can get a D15B (92-98 Civic VTI) or a SOHC ZC (1992–1995 JDM Civic EJ1), they bolt right into stock D-series mounts. I think you can get these from importers for about 7-800 bucks. Like STR said, find a cluster from an LX/EX/Si and plug it in. Instant tach, no wiring required. I miss playing Legos with Civics/Integras .
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May 25, 2014 09:07
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If cheap is your thing I know a guy willing to swap sgraight across for his EB2, you'll need to take the transmission too because it's got a different bellhousing than the trans in your car.
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May 25, 2014 09:10
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Strawberry posted:I had a '91 sedan with a B16A swap, such a fun little car. I was all ready to sell you on a B swap, but that's okay. Honestly, I prefer the Z6 - more because it has a higher redline than the Y8 though. Also, the difference in power between them is negligible at best - they're really (mostly) the same engine, the Y8 just added a few sensors to make it OBDII happy (maybe piston oil squirters too? I honestly forget, it's been about 10 years since I played with Honda Legos). Not sure what they did that brought the redline down. IIRC you can swap a Z6 engine harness + ECU into the 92-95 DX with little work? That said, the Y8 also added a knock sensor - something the Z6 doesn't have - so if you want to play with boost and stay SOHC, the Y8 makes more sense. But to run a Y8 ECU, you're looking at a bit more work. And most people that built Civics back in the day converted them to OBD1 (from OBD2 or OBD0) anyway - the 92-95 Civic (and Integra) ECUs were apparently a lot more friendly to tuning than their OBD0 and OBD2 counterparts. Cripes, a 91 sedan with a B16A had to be bonkers. Good luck finding a cable tranny these days though.. tl;dr:  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:44 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 11:39
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How the hell did you actually get 90s Honda parts from a pick and pull yard?? Every time I go I always see the Civics are stripped to the bare frame or worse, even if they're brand new. I think the lot boys strip them before they're even off the forklift.
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May 25, 2014 14:42
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Strawberry posted:I had a '91 sedan with a B16A swap, such a fun little car. I was all ready to sell you on a B swap, but that's okay. B16A seems daunting but that's just from reading a few builds. Will all Civic EXs from 96-00 have the D16Y8? I just discovered that the place I got these parts from has their inventory of cars available online, the only such lot in NE Indiana to do so. Is there an available manifold for a turbo application or will I have to have someone weld something up? Am I going to be sorry buying stuff off EBay since there's no other parts locally? (I've checked every PnP) http://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick_Your_Part_-_Fort_Wayne-254/recents/ There's a '96 on the lot, I'll have to check it out and see what's in it. I'm getting ready to head back over there this afternoon to try and get that wiper and clutch switch. My friend's father said he put in a new wiper switch a year ago which is why I grabbed that whole wiper motor assembly and it cost me $10 so no big deal. Seat Safety Switch posted:How the hell did you actually get 90s Honda parts from a pick and pull yard?? Looks like it hit the lot on the 13th, I hit the lot on the 22nd and pulled on the 24th. So it sat for an entire week. Exhaust options? Will a cheap Ebay exhaust do the trick? I'm seeing some really cheap setups, I don't care about exhaust note on this car, I'd like it to be quiet honestly.
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May 25, 2014 16:18
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Hell yes, '90s Civic tune-a-thon! Always wanted something Honda from that era because of how easy they are to work on and make stupid fast. Plus fuckin' double-wishbone suspension front and rear on an appliance car is awesome, old Hondas handle so good. I know dick about their engines though (other than B18/H22/F20/2 being good engines), being more of a Toyota guy, so I'll just cheer from the sidelines. Every one of those that pops up for sale around here is either riced to oblivion and costs $texas or is just run into the ground, rusty, and is still $2k minimum.
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May 25, 2014 16:35
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I'm kind of shocked at the prices they demand. I was offered $1800 site unseen yesterday when the dude heard it had never been crashed. Quick, before I head out, will I need to pull the steering wheel to get the wiper switch out?
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May 25, 2014 16:41
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Yep, will need to pull the wheel. You will only need to get the center bolt out and it will come off. No need to use a puller or anything.
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May 25, 2014 19:41
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Bugdrvr posted:Yep, will need to pull the wheel. You will only need to get the center bolt out and it will come off. No need to use a puller or anything. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy the wheel came off. I was pretty terrified that I'd set the airbag off but it all came out cleanly. The '96 on the lot was indeed an EX but the motor was already pulled. If I'm going to do this I'll have to look elsewhere as there's fuckall for Honda parts left now. Still not sure which route to go or how powerful I even need the car to be. Here's the motor from the donor car, looks exactly like mine.  Here was today's haul. The wiper motor was $8, the switches (wasn't sure which to grab) were 50 cents and the counter attendant gave me the shift boot for free since it was gross. But it's intact and mine has a tear.  And spied this on the way home.  Identical to mine. I should just follow them home and steal their hood. I was going to snag the corner lights but somebody yoinked the driver side one since yesterday and totally hosed up the otherwise intact interior. I really wish I'd done a full check on my car to see if I needed anything else before I went. Current Total: $488. Is there an online resource where I can score the engine for say, $300 or less? Rhyno fucked around with this message at 20:57 on May 25, 2014 |
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May 25, 2014 20:47
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Not unless you are pulling it or throwing the dice on a Honda kid's project motor (I wouldn't). I've wanted a cheap Honda to make quick and still get ridiculous gas mileage, but the premium they command over here is ridiculous. I say just turbo what you have. You want cheap? Go eBay everything. The quality is meh but you can't beat it for the price. And it'll make enough power to break something if you really wanted to. Intercooler kit, cast turbo manifold, small turbo, bigger injectors, exhaust and a chipped/modded ecu and you'll be getting tickets in no time!
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May 25, 2014 22:46
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mafoose posted:Not unless you are pulling it or throwing the dice on a Honda kid's project motor (I wouldn't). Well for budget reasons that is the way to go but you're the first person to say I should turbo the stock motor. But look at the other one again It looks very similar to what I have except for the valve cover. I'm gonna have to track down the owner and get more details out of her.
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May 25, 2014 22:54
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I went to work on the Miata but got distracted by the Civic parts. Here's the other side of the hood. More on this later  Here's my new door. There's a crease down at the lower back of the sheet metal but it opened and closed fine.  I went to poke at the car and checked out the trunk. Free Haynes manual and jumpers!  I was looking closely at the hood and how it wouldn't close. I appear to have made a tactical error because the original hood is not bent as I thought. It has some palm sized dents but it's actually in really great shape. The paint is horrible and that was deceiving my eyes. Here's how the hood would sit. I could not close it properly.  So I pulled the latch mechanism. It's pretty bent up. Luckily I thought ahead and pulled the one off the white car while I was there. The counter attendant didn't charge me for it. I think she's sweet on me. Here's the old one. I forgot to take a picture of the new one. It was covered in gunk so I hit it with brake cleaner and it cleaned up nicely.  I bolted it in (the third bolt is a bitch to get back in) and gently shut the hood. It latched! And again and again! I fixed it!  The hood now properly shuts and latches! So I need to give the PnP a call and see if they'll let me return the hood. Even if they won't, according to my receipt it was $22.49 and has a $9 core so I'm only out $13 if I have to submit for the core. I also failed to notice how nice the headlights on the car were. Guess I should pay more attention to such things before I buy parts. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 03:46 on May 26, 2014 |
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May 26, 2014 02:37
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You could probably take the bonnet to a metal recycler and get more from them than what you paid for it
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May 26, 2014 03:34
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Use the hood to cut out patch-panels for the rear quarters.
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May 26, 2014 03:36
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You Am I posted:You could probably take the bonnet to a metal recycler and get more from them than what you paid for it Metal recycling here is a loving racket. The value of the whole car was $350. I doubt I'd get more than $10 for the hood. I was looking at the receipt and it says I have 30 days to make the return so it's all good. Getting the tires sorted tomorrow and as a short term solution I'll buy some of the cheap pieces and cleanup the exhaust a bit. So, turboing the stock motor. Since there's 222,000 on the clock should I think about rebuilding the engine first or just turbo it and let it blow up and rebuild later? Should I just buy an all in one kit from ebay or piece it together? Is there a Honda forum that doesn't suck where I can read up on build options? Terrible Robot posted:Use the hood to cut out patch-panels for the rear quarters. I actually have some metal I can use for that but I ain't got no welding skills.
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May 26, 2014 03:44
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It's a honda so you have to get one of those windshield banners that tell people it's a honda or else people might mistaken it for a lambo or a Ferrari. And type r badging. A must.
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May 26, 2014 04:04
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Wild EEPROM posted:It's a honda so you have to get one of those windshield banners that tell people it's a honda or else people might mistaken it for a lambo or a Ferrari. I might be looking at horrible body kits.
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May 26, 2014 04:06
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I was able to find the owner of the other Civic through our C&C Facebook page, I just sent her a ton of questions. Her car is neat.  Edit: she's running a D15b VTEC. Google tells me this is not easy to put together. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 05:39 on May 26, 2014 |
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May 26, 2014 04:53
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Rhyno posted:I might be looking at horrible body kits. This is the tried and true Honda owner's method of fixing rust - just cover it with bitchin flares  fake edit: rebadge it as an Acura
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May 26, 2014 06:04
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Well I was probably gonna do flares... Was chatting with STR, will this do the job? It's cheap as hell and if I get a few months of fun out of the car I won't cry when it explodes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T04E-9PC...182701a&vxp=mtr
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May 26, 2014 06:56
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Rhyno posted:Well I was probably gonna do flares... Get a cheap flux-core welder and fix the rust before anything else.
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May 26, 2014 07:08
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Sir Cornelius posted:Get a cheap flux-core welder and fix the rust before anything else. It's a $350 beater, I want to make it 2F2F first.
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May 26, 2014 07:21
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Do they make any t25 or 16g based kits? That chinabay t3t4 will be super laggy. I have one in my 2.1l Volvo and I don't get full boost til 3500 rpm. That's almost a 3rd more displacement. Get something smaller. Don't forget you can't just slap this on and go. You need fueling mods or else the fun will be very short lived. Bigger injectors, fuel pump and a tune/chip/megasquirt/hondata etc is basically a must for any sort of reliability. Otherwise the motors life will be measured in minutes if the stock stuff will even let you get into boost. The manifolds are cheap, you'll be able to reuse most of the intake/intercooler piping and exhaust when you switch motors. Boost is one hell of a drug...
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May 26, 2014 07:47
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My buddy has a very similar car. He's been gathering parts for the mini-me swap and just finally sent his ECU off to get socketed. I think he's got everything else. I'll have to snag some photos of the build.
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May 26, 2014 14:08
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revmoo posted:My buddy has a very similar car. He's been gathering parts for the mini-me swap and just finally sent his ECU off to get socketed. I think he's got everything else. I'll have to snag some photos of the build. That'd be awesome. I'm still sorting through the various budget builds and trying to sort out what's best for me to do with the car.
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May 26, 2014 16:59
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Drop a Turbo K20A in it. Or replace the hood and fix the paint and drive it until the Earth explodes. *Edit* If you are looking for a decent swap; a good go-to swap for my friends is the LS-Vtec. FlapYoJacks fucked around with this message at 18:23 on May 26, 2014 |
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May 26, 2014 18:20
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ratbert90 posted:Drop a Turbo K20A in it. Those options are a weeee bit more ambitious than I want to go right now. The Mini-Me swap looks like I can do it without even pulling the whole motor out of the car. I've read four different builds and most of them completed the build under $500. So maybe I should go that route first and turbo later. Edit: The exhaust is falling off the car, it's not even worth putting a patch pipe in as the muffler and cat have holes scraped in them now. I want to buy a cheap exhaust tonight, something bolt on from Ebay as suggested by STR. Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-95-Honda...8a66f89&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-95-HONDA...e8c9192&vxp=mtr Right around $100 would be best, some of these say they fit the 2 and 4 door but the cars are different lengths as far as I know. Point me at the best option boys, time to buy some parts. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 18:40 on May 26, 2014 |
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May 26, 2014 18:32
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Rhyno posted:Point me at the best option boys, time to buy some parts. Not just the best option, but the only option. 
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May 26, 2014 21:35
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HotCanadianChick posted:Not just the best option, but the only option. Pikachu tail pipes??? Edit: Somebody weigh in, will the same exhaust systems indeed work on 2 and 4 door cars? Edit 2: I really don't want a 4 inch muffler. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 23:10 on May 26, 2014 |
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May 26, 2014 21:41
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Rhyno posted:Pikachu tail pipes??? These need to be yellow.
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May 26, 2014 22:58
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Why does every goddamned exhaust for this car have a 4" tip???
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May 26, 2014 23:55
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Because : rice :
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May 27, 2014 00:19
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Torn Quad Jones posted:Because : rice : God drat it. I don't want to actually spend money on this. gently caress. Okay, so the cat's toast and I'll be replacing the exhaust manifold when I turbo the car so this system, stupid as it is, looks to be the best bet. http://www.ebay.com/itm/301169244501?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649  Sigh.
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May 27, 2014 00:22
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some texas redneck posted:Cripes, a 91 sedan with a B16A had to be bonkers. Good luck finding a cable tranny these days though.. It was my favorite car I've ever owned, it was such a riot. It wasn't super fast in a straight line, but anyone who has driven the EF chassis knows what a go kart they feel like. I really lucked out having a YS1 cable trans come with my motor.     I hated those automatic seatbelts though. Rhyno posted:The Mini-Me swap looks like I can do it without even pulling the whole motor out of the car. I've read four different builds and most of them completed the build under $500. So maybe I should go that route first and turbo later. I completely forgot about the Mini-me, also a good option. I remember reading somewhere that it was worth between 30-50 hp depending on the shortblock used. As for exhaust, I just had a muffler shop weld me up a 2.5 header-back system that consisted of a Cherry Bomb as a resonator then back to a Thrush turbo muffler. It was nice and quiet until I cracked VTEC, then it sounded like most aftermarket Honda exhausts. A muffler shop welding on your muffler of choice is probably the only way to get a non-ricer exhaust for a good price. If you happen to find some 94-00 Integra seats (LS seats are nice, that's what I had in mine), they bolt right in to your chassis. I had to mod the rails a bit, but you should just be able to drop them in.
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May 27, 2014 00:28
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Before I even bought the car we'd inquired about an exhaust and the cheapest shop was saying $80. gently caress it, doing the ebay fart can.
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May 27, 2014 01:09
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