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10 major tips for doing your own paint: 1. prep 2. prep 3. prep 4. sand 5. sand 6. prep 7. sand 8. prep 9. prep 10. sand I just did some spot repairs on my car, that turned out so-so. I got the finish near perfect, but all the little mistakes at the very start show through. This little area was a week of painting and sanding repeatedly until i got it right. This was with a custom mix spraybomb, and clearcoat spraybomb. If i took a few days and sanded between color and clear, it likely would have come out perfect, but i rushed it, that goes back to point 7. It has given me the confidence to do the entire car though, i just don't have the cash for it at this point   A few years ago i hit a moose with my truck. This was done in a dusty shop with a single stage urethane. fiberglass repair took a week, paint took an hour, but i had the advantage of a hard body line i could paint up to. This was done without sanding or buffing or anything the final coat. There's orange peel, but it matches the "professional" job on the rest of the truck.       Basically, anybody has it in them to do a 8/10 job in their garage. It's just a matter of spending a fuckton of time on the inital prep work, and being able to sand off fairly expensive paint if something goes wrong. If your hooptie is really terrible and you'd be fine with a 3/10 job, a week of sanding and a couple wet coats of single stage urethane would get you going pretty quick. If you check eastwood's website, you can get some pretty sick colors in single stage too. You'll also find all the guides you need to do an ok job.
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Jun 30, 2014 22:39
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 20:52 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Where are you getting custom mix spraybombs from in AB? Eastwood won't ship anything aerosol to AB because our recycling laws are apparently somehow strange. CAPS - central alberta paint supply here in red deer.
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Jun 30, 2014 22:46
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BrokenKnucklez posted:What's harder to make look better, light or dark paint? I'm doing this jag and I know my body work won't be perfect, but its already black with multiple layers of poo poo. White is stupidly easy to make look passable. metallics are really, really hard. i'm fixing the gas door and hoodscoop holes on my metallic green pick-up, and holy hell does it not want to go down even. quote:I used Summit Racing paints since they were cheaper than anything else I could find, and you can get it online. It adds up after you factor in all the epoxy primer, 2k primer, reducers, activators, clear, etc. 'Etc' here includes paint booth materials, HVLP guns, renting a wheelbarrow compressor so I can get decent CFM, new air fittings that aren't harbor freight, respirator, paint suit, masking materials, sanding blocks, sandpaper, tack cloths, body filler, polishes. Almost all these expenses are just because I wanted to spray on paint. Think of it as an investment though. The first paint job you do will cost close to a professional job, but there are a lot of one-time costs like paint guns and compressors. Your second paint job will be dirt cheap, and you'll probably know how to do it. You don't really think of consumables too much, but if you're going for a 7-8/10 paint job, you will sand off $100 worth of paint and filler with $100 worth of sandpaper. Octopus Magic posted:So what you're saying is that I definitely should just vinyl wrap my econobox track rat/jackstand queen instead of repainting it. This is the exact opposite of what we're saying. We're saying your first paint job is gonna be a lot of work and will probably suck, but you'll learn enough about doing it right to do a decent job on the next car, which you might really want a good job on.
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Jul 1, 2014 20:44
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You don't even need to resort to rusty ones. I got the bmw for a grand at michener allen in calgary. I just missed a $600 deesul jetta at graham in calgary a few months back, too. I even regret the 1994 eagle summit i could have gotten for $50. Coulda given it the incredible hulk from tokyo drift treatment. Painting a car is something i think every car guy really needs in his toolbox. The craftsmen of the past are all dead, dying, retired, or retarded from the fumes, and there just doesn't seem to be anybody to replace them. In 10 years, a good paint job is either going to have to come out of your hand or your hide. My mom's jeep got backed into, and with barely any damage, the $750 repair from carstar was nowhere near what i could have done with an afternoon and a rattle can, even in my limited experience.
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Jul 1, 2014 21:07
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Cakefool posted:95% of the finish appears to come from prep and sanding. Either do it yourself or pay someone else, but a decent job needs work. 95% of a regular paint job is still prep and sanding. That paint seems to be standing up well. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint-3years.html
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Dec 10, 2014 01:21
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 20:52 |
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That's pretty drat good out of a rattle can. Are those the wheels off a newer wrangler? are they polished aluminum or aluminum with a plastic cap like so many manufacturers are doing these days.
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Apr 27, 2015 19:49
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