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al-azad
May 28, 2009



Tried my hand at tonkotsu broth. It was darker than I wanted but I didn't spend a lot of time cleaning the bones.



It was amazing. Rich flavor, very filling, and the pork belly just melts in the mouth.

It's kind of liberating. I grew up in a strict no pork household. You could bring in pork (and get scolded every time) but cooking it was out of the question. I'll probably never make it again but this is like a middle finger to 18 years of being unable to have even pork bacon growing up.

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al-azad
May 28, 2009



There's a sushi place I know that does toriwasa on request which is searing/boiling the chicken for like 5 seconds. Just long enough to create a white film and get rid of the slimy texture of raw chicken.

Not enough to kill germs by any means but I've seen it in America.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



I can never get the prized milky white tonkotsu stock, it always comes out brown no matter how much I blanch and clean the bones. Next time I try it I'm peeling off the skin from the trotters and omitting the vegetables. My guess is the charred veggies are ruining the color so I'll mix like 2:1 ratio of pork stock to vegetable stock.

Kevin DuBrow posted:

This might be a departure from drying your own katsuobushi or whatever, but nothing hits the spot like some instant curry:


I've tried a few and usually stick with Golden Curry but that's probably just nostalgia, does someone have another favorite? Eating it, I can feel my mood improving with each bite.

Anyway, I'd welcome some opinions on what veggies, fruits, meats and spices to add. I usually go with beef cubes, onion, potato, carrots, and bananas (a point of contention with my family). Sprinkled with cayenne pepper and served with an unhealthy amount of white rice. I try to cook enough for the next one or two days, and it tastes even better than the first night. poo poo now I'm thinking about kare pan which is equally delicious.

Last time I visited Japan there were Coco Curry Houses everywhere which looked extremely appetizing but I admit it's not exactly highbrow and it wasn't possible to convince the family to go to to the Olive Garden of Japan during a limited vacation.

Golden Curry is the only stuff I find around here and I swear by it.

A few weeks ago I had an epiphany while trying to make a meat sauce for Coney dogs. Japanese curry is a roux so why do I cook it like a stew and not a gravy? So I took a pan with some bacon drippings from another meal, added some onions, a skosh of baking soda to turn them super brown, then fried the curry roux until it was almost black before adding the liquid. I've never had Japanese curry with such immense flavor (although admittedly it's not something I seek out). I don't put veggies in a gravy so why would I here? Add some meat and a heaping of rice, that's it. Next time I want to omit water and do a blend of sweet and spicy peppers. The more concentrated the better.

al-azad fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Apr 17, 2017

al-azad
May 28, 2009



I'll meet you in the middle and just chop my veggies very finely. As a diehard fan of Indian and Thai curries, I just can't get over big stew chunks in Japanese curry.

Now I've got the idea stuck in my head to let the rice cook in the curry sauce like jambalaya.

Thoht posted:

Don't peel the skin off, it adds body. You don't need to omit the veggies, just don't char them. Just sweat them or leave them raw if you want a white broth. Also what veggies specifically are you using?

Onions, ginger, garlic, and sometimes leeks. I'll just make separate broths and combine them until I'm comfortable getting the right color.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Is there a traditionally spicy dish in Japan (besides curry)? I know Japanese food isn't known for its heat but I figure they must've picked up something from China or Korea over the centuries.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



POOL IS CLOSED posted:

Aside from a condiment made by grating a daikon that has been pierced with small hot red peppers, I don't personally know of any traditionally spicy Japanese dishes.

I need to know of this condiment and "hot daikon" isn't doing much.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



I'm giving up on ever getting a clear soup. Made a stock for shoyu base, chicken carcass + feet. Kept it at 180 covered just fine for several hours and it was clear and fragrant. Went to sleep and woke up a few hours later to find it at a rapid boil and brown as dirt!



It's the best tasting stock I've ever made, and it's pointless whining when I'll be using a dark-as-midnight tare, but I've accepted my recipes will always be visually unappealing.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



always be closing posted:

Wow, you got all that out of one carcass and some feet?

Well, two-ish pounds of feet which is a lot of footless chickens.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Great thing about okonomiyaki is that it's whatever you want it to be. The name roughly means "cooked the way you like" and all the different varieties go nuts. Hiroshima style particularly doesn't mix the ingredients into the batter and is instead like a layered open face sandwich with a crepe on the bottom.

The batter is the requirement, that's what separates it from simple stir fry. You want something salty and something savory but everything else is icing.

I'm kind of surprised it's not more popular in the States. "Hibachi grill" restaurants are popular nearly everywhere but I can't recall seeing okonomiyaki on any menu despite these places having the perfect setup.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Stringent posted:

This is one of the better curry places in Tokyo: https://en.japantravel.com/tokyo/moyan-curry/22965

They've got a bit on what goes into their base:

I've been kind of obsessed with this place the past week or so after making my own spice blend and thinking "this is good but just not what I reach for when I think 'curry'" I managed to find a place that sells it jarred, although I haven't attempted to see if they ship internationally. It does contain a list of ingredients of which the #1 is vegetables (and potatoes) followed by fruit, a beef base, and a roux (or "paste") near the bottom. Really the only exotic ingredient I can't source locally is the sea salt but I found a specialty butcher that sells Umi no Sei for $10. I doubt it's even necessary but I want to stick close to what they have.

What got me excited is how they describe the sauce being more veggies than flour which immediately got me thinking that it's likely a modification of the "base gravy" used in Indian take out. The fruits are trickiest thing, but I think it would work out really well to grill them first to caramelize the sugars then boil it down to a thick reduction, almost like a jam. Those two can be made separately and combined later with a beef bone broth.

The real mystery is what the 25 spices are. Chinese, Nepalese, Indian, and Italian inspirations, huh? S&B traditionally covers around 18 of the spices. When I think 'savory Italian spices" I think marjoram, bay leaf, rosemary, and sage. Nepalese I think of black cardamom, mustard seed, timur, and ginger rhizome. It'll be quite an experiment to see if 25 spices actually make a good flavor profile.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Stringent posted:

Post it if you figure it out.

I grabbed the ingredient list from the jar. Some differences from my original post as I was going off memory

180g is the jarred serving size. A few blogs say they use the equivalent of a tablespoon for 2-4 servings of finished curry.

Vegetables and Fruit (onion, tomato, banana, carrot (or perhaps panax ginseng?), apples, garlic, celery)
Curry roux (maybe the jarred version uses more roux than fresh so you get more uses out of it?)
Meat extraction (chicken and pork)
Chutney
Butter
Worcestershire sauce
Curry paste
Yeast extract
Cooking oil (olive oil)
Fish meal (dashi?)
Spices
Caramel color (we can leave this out)

So I didn't even know chutney was a popular ingredient in Japan but mango chutney is a popular product sold by S&B and other condiment producers. Indian mango chutney is traditionally made from unripened mangos so the flavor is bitter. It's actually kind of difficult to find an English source, even googling S&B Chutney gives me nothing I can only find it by typing it out in katakana but I still want to track down some S&B chutney to see if it's sweet or sour.

Oh and someone asked how some curries get so dark, the big thing is caramelizing your onions with baking soda. A splash of water to scrape up the fond and you don't get that alkaline taste.

e: I wonder what yuzu kosho tastes like in a curry. It's the heat that really makes a curry for me but I think cayenne detracts from the more delicate nature of Japanese style curry?

al-azad fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Feb 6, 2018

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Ultimate Mango posted:

I want to play around though. We have to do better than stew meat that isn’t cooked long enough and carrot and onion.

Can I at least pressure cook the meat, or sous vide it?

In my quest to recreate Moyan curry I came across this recipe which isn't anything fancy but adds some extra fresh ingredients besides meat, carrot, and onion.

I almost always pressure cook my stews and Japanese curry isn't too far removed from a stew. Brown the meat (always well marbled chuck steak for me, please), caramelize onions, deglaze, add stock and cook under pressure for 30 minutes. Add roux blocks and any "soft" ingredients like carrots and potatoes then simmer until fork tender. Serve with rice or salad on the side.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Doc Walrus posted:

I was stirring it with a wooden spoon until it was cloudy, then draining and adding more water. I did that until it looked mostly clear, but when I started cooking it got much cloudier than I expected. Is that what makes it gooey? I've never seen a clear explanation as to what rinsing the rice actually does.

It helps remove starch which is the component that causes stickiness. But rice is 30% starch, you're not going to get rid of all of it but it does help. If it's getting "gooey" you're using too much water. Cut down by 25%.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Earlier this year I collected a bunch of resources on Japanese blogs in an attempt to make something like moyan curry. Until recently I've never really had anything that didn't come in a brick, and after hitting up some places in D.C. that blew my mind it reinvigorated my efforts. I still haven't ordered some drat moyan but my attempts here are based on the information I collected. Spoiler: it's the best drat Japanese curry I've had and this will probably become a Friday night ritual until the day I die.

Here are the ingredients based on the jar

code:
Vegetable · Fruit (Onion, Tomato, Banana, Carrots, Apples, Garlic, Celery)
Curry Roux
Meat Extract (Chicken, Pork)
Chutney
Butter
Worcester sauce
Curry paste
Yeast extract
Edible fats and oils
Fish meal
Spice
Caramel pigment
The first thing that hit me is how similar the primary ingredients are to the "base gravy" used in Indian restaurants. The base is universal, and we can add different ingredients to create different curries much like how good ramen has the multiple parts. So first step is making the "base gravy" and here a pressure cooker is invaluable in saving time! I recommend a pressure cooker in every kitchen, I probably use it more than the stove.

About 1,000 grams of yellow onions fried with a teaspoon or two of baking soda until they release all their liquid and begin to turn dark about 5 minutes.



Cook at high pressure for 20 minutes. In the meantime I've got some shallots from like 4 months ago turning mushy so I'm going to use sous vide to pickle them in a brine of rice vinegar and sugar.

I let the onions release their pressure naturally (about 20 minutes) then cook a little longer. While waiting I broil the fruits and vegetables. Halfway through I remove the skins from the blistered tomatoes.



I should've browned them further but was in a rush to get them into the pot (not pictured: garlic don't forgot your garlic!)





After 30 minutes at high pressure all the ingredients are well cooked and I hit it with an immersion blender into a thick slurry. Much to my surprise it had the flavor profile of the really high end curry I had in D.C. so already I'm super excited to finish. I jar the gravy and put one in the freezer as a test and one in the fridge.



Later on I prepare the curry. I fry my spice mix (based on S&B's ingredients list, I change the ratio so turmeric isn't the primary ingredient) in a healthy dollop of butter at medium heat until the butter starts to foam and clarify. It should have the faint aroma of ghee (and come to think of it I should try just using ghee).



To this I add my soup base. I happen to have leftover tonkotsu broth made with chicken feet and pork feet. In the future when I don't have an 18 hour long broth available I would make a cheat version by adding a packet of gelatin to water and some "better than bouillon" chicken and pork.

At this point I add umami. Yeast extract (I use vegemite because I like the flavoring), katsuobushi (I'll probably prepare niboshi in the future), and instead of adding Worcestershire (which I assume they're talking about the Bull Dog style tonkatsu sauce) I cheat and add some fish sauce for saltiness.

The only meat I have at the moment is some chicken which I brown separately and add to the curry, simmering covered until the chicken is cooked.



Without adding any thickening agents the curry is so thick that it coats the back of a spoon.



But, and this may be controversial, instead of using a roux I simply stir in a pinch of coconut flour. Coconut flour is common in Indian curries and I find it integrates more consistently, resulting in a silkier texture. The description on Moyan's website says their vegetable base is so thick that they add only the bare minimum amount of roux for thickness and sure enough, after simmering for 20 minutes that was true. The dash of salt you'd add to your morning eggs is how much coconut powder I added to get the perfect consistency.



Topped off the chicken with tonkatsu sauce, added my pickled shallots and a dollop of Indian mango chutney. Not going to win any points for presentation but drat that flavor! I wish I had the vocabulary to describe it but if anyone ever asked me "what the hell is umami" this is what I would offer them. There are a few tweaks I want to make before solidifying it in a recipe, namely a quick-and-easy soup I can whip up on the fly and a special dashi with all the umami elements. The actual cooking time was only about 3 hours with 75% of that being the pressure cooker so as long as you have the base curry available dinner will be ready when the rice is done.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Fauxyan "Roux Free" Curry Rice

This curry recipe is based on Moyan's, an intense and dark curry that prides itself on taking weeks to come together. I don't have weeks, but I do have a pressure cooker and a weekend afternoon. For precision reasons using my kitchen scale, I'll be using metric units but I want y'all to know I'm an Imperial lovin' Yank.

*Approaching this in multiple parts like ramen allows you to create basic compounds that can be combined together quickly and freeze well. I removed a whole pickle jar of the gravy from my freezer after a month and it's still just as good.

*A base gravy made from concentrated fruits and vegetables combined with a gelatin rich stock creates a thick reduction without the need for roux or thickeners.

*A pressure cooker cuts down the time immensely and reserves the liquids while inducing browning. If you don't have a pressure cooker then quadruple the times listed and cook on medium-low in a heavy lidded pot like a dutch oven.

*You'll need an immersion blender to puree everything.

Spice Mixture
The spice mixture is based on S&B but leans heavier on the more pungent ingredients. Cumin, pepper, chili, and fennel are the top ingredients resulting in a spicier, more bitter mixture that I find is offset by the sweet and caramelized flavor of the base gravy. I give precise measurements here but I always eyeball it.

10g whole black peper
8g cumin seeds
8g chili powder (Indian red chili for spicy, Ancho for mild)
7g fennel seeds
5g ginger powder
4 whole cloves
5g turmeric powder
2 green cardamom pods with seeds
5g dried orange peel
5g coriander seeds
4g fenugreek seeds
1 half star anise
3g thyme
2 bay leaves
about 1/4 of a cinnamon stick
about 1/4 of a single nutmeg seed
a sprinkling of sage

Combine all ingredients in a spice grinder and store in an airtight container. You can cook in a dry pan if you want but I keep this stuff lasts me a couple months so it doesn't make a difference in the long run.

Stock
Moyan's curry lists chicken and pork stock as an ingredient. This gelatin heavy stock will stick to the roof of your mouth.

4 liters of water
1 knob of ginger
500 grams of chicken feet
500 grams of pork neck bones and/or feet

Cover chicken and pork with water and boil for 5 minutes.

While waiting, slice ginger in half lengthwise. Place under a broiler, skin side down, until the ginger chars. About 10 minutes.

Dump water and rinse pot and meat. You don't have to clean thoroughly, just remove scum.

Return to pot and top with 4 liters of water. Add ginger. Bring to high pressure and cook for 60 minutes.

Let pressure release naturally. Strain liquid.

Base Gravy
1,000g yellow onions
2 fuji apples, cored and peeled
1 ripe banana, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise
1 beefsteak tomato, cut in half and cored
1 large carrot, cut in half
2 stalks of celery, cut in half
4 cloves of garlic, smashed with flat of blade
baking soda

Roughly chop onions. Add onions to pressure cooker, sprinkle with baking soda (no more than 4-8 grams/1-2 teaspoons), and stir.

Saute onions on medium-high heat (saute button on Instant Pot) until fully submerged in their own liquid and begin to turn deep yellow, about 5 minutes.

Cook at high pressure for 20 minutes.

While waiting, place the other ingredients under a broiler. Broil until the tomato's skin blisters. Peel skin off tomato and continue to broil the ingredients, flipping the banana and apple. The carrots, celery, and apples should have some light charring around the sharp edges while the banana should be a rich brown all over.

Let the pressure on the onions release naturally. The onions should be a deep brown and soupy. Add the other ingredients and cook at high pressure for another 20 minutes. Release the pressure naturally.

Using an immersion blender, puree all the ingredients into a thick puree.

Combining
These three compounds can be combined into various curries but all begin basically the same: fry the dry spices in butter or ghee, combine one part gravy to four parts stock (so 1/4 cup gravy to 1 cup stock), add main ingredients and cook until reduced. I find the curry will be done when the rice is. At this point you'll add umami enhancing ingredients to taste like yeast extract, fish sauce, dashi, and katsuobushi. At this point the curry will have reduced to a thick paste. You'll know it's done when you can scrape a spoon across the pan and see the bottom without the liquid filling in. I've never had to add roux or thickener.

Two of my favorite recipes:

"This is Basically Beef Stew You Can Spoon Over Rice" Curry
For this recipe I cook the stock with cubed chuck at high pressure for 30 minutes resulting in tender, fall apart meat.

In a frying pan I melt ghee and bloom the spice mixture. Fry carrots, potatoes, and mushrooms in the buttery spice mixture for 5 minutes. Combine one part of gravy to four parts stock. Simmer covered until potatoes are fork tender. Continue simmering uncovered while adding frozen peas and pearl onions and some meat from the pot. Season with a small bit of vegemite, bonito flakes, and salt to taste. Serve with rice and shredded cabbage.

"There's Kale So I'm Totally Eating Healthy!" Curry without Rice
In a cast iron brown chicken thighs skin side down. In a frying pan melt ghee and bloom the spice mixture. Fry mushrooms and chopped kale in the buttery spice mixture for 5 minutes. Combine one part of gravy to four parts stock. Add browned chicken pieces and simmer covered until chicken is fully cooked. Continue to simmer uncovered, stirring to combine chicken juices. Season with Bull-Dog tonkatsu sauce, fish sauce, MSG, and mango chutney. Serve over riced cauliflower.

al-azad fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Oct 17, 2018

al-azad
May 28, 2009



AnonSpore posted:

:getin: Awesome writeup! Imma make that this weekend and report back.

edit: Would you mind if I shared this recipe with other people?

Please do. I'm still tweaking some things, like once mango is back in season I want to try something citrusy.

Also I didn't know that fenugreek was the flavoring for cheap syrup and now I can't not think of waffles when smelling my can of S&B so... eggo curry??

al-azad
May 28, 2009



AnonSpore posted:

One clarification, the components for the recipes here meant to be 1:1:1, right? That is, if I made 4 liters of the stock, I'd be expected to be able to combine it with the 1kg onions worth of gravy and the whole container of spice mix and get the intended curry?

No. The stock, gravy, and spice mixture are stored separately and you combine them later when you prepare the curry. It's meant to be customizable with the three core ingredients serving as a base.

My general approach is a 1:4 ratio of gravy to stock which for one serving would be 1/4 cup gravy to 1 cup stock. I eyeball the spice mix but a healthy 5-finger-pinch fried in a dollop of butter is enough.

I probably wouldn't make more than a couple servings at once but I don't see why it wouldn't work. If you make it in a deep pot you would need to adjust the uncovered simmer time because the narrower surface area would take longer to reduce than if you finished it in a shallow pan.

e: If you were making a huge pot of this at once you probably would have to make a simple roux as a thickener although I would like to suggest trying coconut flour. I find coconut flour results in a silkier, more subtle texture.

al-azad fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Oct 17, 2018

al-azad
May 28, 2009



AnonSpore posted:

I generally prefer to make huge batches that I can portion and freeze and then reheat a single serving after coming home from work, which is why I wanted to get it all together. Thanks for the clarification though, I'll fiddle with it on my own.

Let me know how it turns out. The proportions work on a small scale and I don't see why they wouldn't work on a larger scale as long as you keep in mind the longer uncovered simmer time needed.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



AnonSpore posted:

First try was something like 60% of the spice mix bloomed in 8tbsp butter with ~2.5 cups gravy, ~9 cups stock, with some beef chuck, about 12 servings by my reckoning. I had to fish out the beef and let it go at a roiling boil for over two hours to get it viscous enough to look like yours, even with a healthy ~1/4 cup of coconut oil slurry. I can only give it a tiny taste before bed and I'll post more about it after I get a proper meal with it tomorrow, but for now it's... hmm. All I can say about it is that it's smooth and, uhh, complex. I think I'll give it a try with cooking a single serving some time soon and see if it's noticeably different.

I hope you mean coconut flour and not oil! What umami ingredients do you plan on using? Yeast extract and sea salt are a must IMO but for beef I would also consider something naturally salty like Worcestershire, maggi sauce, or anchovy paste.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Furious Lobster posted:

Thanks for the detailed recipe and instructions list; I made the components over the weekend and am looking to try it out this week. Quick question on combining, do you cook the beef chuck with the stock + gravy in the pressure cooker? After this is done, should I combine the chuck/stock (and gravy?) in the spice & vegetable pan or on the finished dish?

I cooked the chuck separately in the pressure cooker as by this point the stock and gravy were finished a week ago and were thawing in the sink. My process is, in a single pan

Bloom spices in butter
Fry long cooking ingredients (potatoes, mushrooms, carrots) to get a little color
Combine gravy + stock, simmer until vegetables are fork tender and curry is thick
Add umami and beef

A single serving results in the right consistency. I'll have to experiment with doing an entire pot at once.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



AnonSpore posted:

I do like the flavor but I also thought it was really understated compared to normal from-a-box curry. Flavor profile reminded me way more of Indian curry instead of Japanese.

This was the intent going into it. I scoured some Japanese blogs on the super dark curries like Moyan and the kind of stuff enjoyed in Niigata (I've been told if I'm in Niigata to immediately find Lerch's curry, best boxed stuff) and they all use very Indian take out techniques and spices. But also this was a personal experiment in how I could eat Japanese curry on a low(er) carb diet and that meant foregoing a roux for something that could thicken up naturally so I'm right there with you on trying to look for healthier alternatives.

If you use S&B curry powder you'll find something more like the boxed stuff but tbh I can't get the taste of pancake syrup out of my mouth now that I know fenugreek is a key component in the stuff.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Yeast extract was a new discovery for me this year and I don't know how I lived without it. I remember there always being a stigma around it but just like MSG the old xenophobic stigmas are wrong wrong wrong.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



How the hell do you cook purple yams? I always see in media people cooking them in traditional/ceremonial ways where they bury it in leaves and light a fire around it. That makes for good TV but these things are dry and chalky when baked unless I'm baking them totally wrong!

al-azad
May 28, 2009



Baked my yam in the oven at 400f for 30 minutes wrapped in tin foil. Poked holes in the skin, added some butter and salt. When finished I scooped out the flesh into a bowel, added the salty butter mixture, and whipped it up.

Taste goooooood. I don't know why these aren't more popular, it goes well with saucy meats. I used it as a substitute for polenta.

I will spare you my rant on the difference between yams and sweet potatoes, and how the West uses them interchangeably but they're different tubers with different tastes and textures. And just to muddy the waters there's a fairly new cultivar of sweet potatoes from California that have the ruddy skin but the flesh is purple and the texture is moister like what Americans call a "sweet potato" so gently caress you clueless buyers standing next to an unlabeled box that contains both yuca and nagaimo, we hate labeling food properly.

al-azad
May 28, 2009



I could never get that milky white broth with tonkotsu so usually I just don't bother! I think the culprit is roasting the veggies before adding them to the pot because I blanch and clean the meat pretty thoroughly.

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al-azad
May 28, 2009



Disinterested posted:

Heston Blumenthal also intentionally 'badly' mixes batter in his dishes to create shards and deformities for added texture. I think this is just uniformly a good move.

Same tip applies for pancakes. Lumpy batter is better.

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