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Been a while. Apologies all around. The weather was too good tonight to not go work, so I figured I'd go tear some poo poo up. I pulled the axle shafts and the carrier out of the 8.2" so maybe I can get a little more money for scrapping it all. If not, it will at least make it lighter to lug around. Cleaned up the diff cover off the 8.2" since it will work on the 8.5". Figure I'll use it at least temporarily until I buy a nicer one with drain and fill plugs. A couple weeks back, I cleaned up and painted the leaf spring plates and the driver side front leaf mount. No pictures unfortunately. Sorry. Finally ordered this tonight: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RMG-831021M. Comes with pretty much everything I'll need to put this 8.5 together finally. That does remind me that I still need to get the pinion races out of there. Should have done that tonight. I made a weak attempt a few weeks back with some brass punches, but didn't make any progress. I need to just sit down and get it done. I'm heading out to a new (to me) yard on Saturday and I have no idea what they have for inventory. Maybe I'll get lucky and find that second F-body backing plate. Next up on my poo poo-to-buy list are new rear hardlines, fancy new softlines from Kore3, rear rotors, and that backing plate. Again, sorry for the lack of pictures. You guys can make fun of me for spending money on a sedan if you want.
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Sep 19, 2014 03:33
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Spent the majority of yesterday in the garage. Started off by popping the new pinion races in the freezer to hopefully shrink them down a bit. It was then time to remove the old races. Already removed in this picture.  As you can see in that picture, there are notches on each side behind each bearing race. Get in there with a punch or screwdriver and a BFH and eventually they will work free. I got my fancy new bearing race/seal drivers ready to go so I could be ready when the races came out of the freezer. Also pictured is the Richmond Gear kit that I bought for assembling the 8.5". New bearings and races all around, axle bearings and seals, pinion washer and locknut, crush sleeve, ring bolts, diff cover gasket, and various compounds, lubes, threadlockers, and RTV.  I also installed the new axle bearings and seals, but failed to grab a picture of that. With the old pinion races out and the new ones still chilling, I figured I'd get the new wheel studs installed on the axle shafts. SOP for installing press-in wheel studs is to put the studs through the hole from behind, run a lug nut on (flat side in) and just crank the poo poo out of it until it pulls the knurls up into the axle shaft. This method works just fine, but if you're using old lug nuts, expect to buy some new ones. I'd already planned on buying new nuts to go with the new wheels, so I didn't care about sacrificing these to the cause.  And the final result:  So I eventually got the new pinion races installed, but didn't grab a picture. Looks a lot like my first one up there, but with shiny new parts in that hole. Now I just need to figure out what to do with all this scrap. 
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Sep 29, 2014 14:10
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Well that looks eerily familiar. Good job Boaz. 
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Sep 29, 2014 18:12
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Got bored. I have no idea what I'm doing. 
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Oct 2, 2014 01:47
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I learned something today. A Harbor Freight bearing puller is stronger than a 30 year old Hon bearing.  Still managed to get it pulled off by flipping the puller over and pulling on the outer lip of the cone. The other carrier bearing and the pinion bearing came right off without any drama at all. Guess I had to have one stubborn one to fight with. Wouldn't be a project otherwise. Things are moving right along. 
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Oct 6, 2014 03:36
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Aw yisss... Kinda sucks that I'll be out of town all weekend, but I'll probably get the front lines on some time this week.
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Oct 7, 2014 01:33
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I learned something today. A Harbor Freight bearing puller is stronger than a 30 year old Hon bearing. Hah, i had that happen to me, except i was using a foot long 3 jaw puller and i had so much pressure on it when it let go, the bearings hosed off all over the garage.
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Oct 7, 2014 01:46
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Powershift posted:Hah, i had that happen to me, except i was using a foot long 3 jaw puller and i had so much pressure on it when it let go, the bearings hosed off all over the garage. When I was pulling it, I actually got 3 out individually before the rest fell all over my feet. Now that I think about it, I probably shouldn't have been doing it with my wife's car 6 feet away, but oh well 
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Oct 7, 2014 01:54
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Little bits are coming together here and there as the weekends roll by. Figured I'd assemble the new rear brake lines to get them ready to go on when I finally get the diff put together. New hardlines from The Right Stuff and new stainless line from Kore3.  I got the new bearings onto the carrier and as I was putting on the ring gear, I realized that my torque wrench only measures torque one way. Why the gently caress would you make it reversible if it only reads torque one way? Dicks. Anyway, once I track down a torque wrench that will measure left-handed torque, I'll get these bolts finished. Vise-chat: that's a Wilton 5.5" and it is awesome. I need to buy some jaw pads for it, but I always forget when I go out.  On Saturday, I got a wild hair and decided to take the wire wheel(s) to the radiator support to get it cleaned up. I managed to actually back a screw out with the grinder and send the star washer that was on it into low orbit, so I need to get another one of those. Need to get one of the plastic headlamp adjuster nuts as well. 40+ year old plastic doesn't take well to steels wires hitting it at 10,000 RPM. Anyway, got a coat of paint on one side of it on Sunday. Looks good so far.  I should get the paint finished this week and hopefully track a wrench down to finish that ring gear.
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Oct 27, 2014 14:06
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Today is the day. Got my inch-pound torque wrench, got my dial indicator, got a garage that won't be a frozen wasteland. The rear end will be assembled. Now, I'll probably have to run over to the CarQuest machine shop to get the pinion bearing pressed on before final FINAL assembly, but I've got everything else ready to go. I'll try to snag some pictures of the process. Edit: Even though no one reads this thread, I'll update the cliffhanger of a last post anyway. The HF torque wrenches read torque on left-handed nuts/bolts so I used my 3/8 and an adapter to get the ring gear torqued down. On to the show: Some tools and parts for the day: Brass punches for slamming home shims, dial indicator, 1/4" torque wrench, carrier bearing races, and lots of shims (carrier and pinion).  Step 1: Install the pinion with the temporary bearing and old nut. Bearing preload should be between 12 and 15 inch pounds. I hit right around 13 so I'm happy with that (picture not accurate)  Step 2: Devise a workspace tall enough to get the housing high enough off the ground to not be resting on the yoke. All my jackstands are currently in use, so I had to get creative.  Step 3: Juggle the carrier, bearing races, and carrier shims and eventually manage to get it all put back in the housing. Proceed to somehow lose the draft that you literally JUST loving HAD IN YOUR HAND WHAT THE gently caress. Important note here: make sure there's some backlash between the ring and pinion gears here. You should be able to slightly rotate the carrier and hear a *ping* when the teeth touch before it actually starts turning the pinion. If you can't move it at all, rip it out and decrease your carrier shims because you'll break poo poo if you don't. Once you have it settled and have a little play, torque down the caps to 55-60 ft-lbs.  Step 4: With your caps torqued down, check your backlash. Spec is .006-.010". I checked mine before and after torqueing the caps town and hit .009" both times. Happy with that.  Step 5: Paint on some marking compound on a few teeth and spin your carrier 2-3 times in each direction. Check your patterns. Drive side:  Coast side:  Looks like I've got some adjustments to make. I think the pinion needs a little more shim. Probably bump it up .005". Anyone have any input? Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Nov 29, 2014 |
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Nov 29, 2014 16:28
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Looks like I overshot it.   Crap
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Nov 29, 2014 20:47
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Well, I got it, but I forgot to take pictures of the last pass. Pattern looks good and backlash is at .008". Now I just need to get the good bearing pressed onto the pinion and I can do final assembly. It's currently all cleaned up and ready to go, so I should be able to install it sooner rather than later.
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Nov 29, 2014 23:32
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Gear setup is something I just don't do- you're braver than I am!
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Nov 30, 2014 14:30
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So that's why my torque wrench is reversible. I thought it was just to encourage morons to use them as breaker bars.
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Nov 30, 2014 19:29
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All I need now is some fluid and some new u-bolts and it's ready for installation. Hopefully I'll get some rotors for Christmas and then I can call the rear end finished. I'm feeling pretty damned accomplished today.  
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Dec 6, 2014 23:24
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:All I need now is some fluid and some new u-bolts and it's ready for installation. Hopefully I'll get some rotors for Christmas and then I can call the rear end finished. I'm feeling pretty damned accomplished today. Way to go man. Differentials are loving hard. Is there anything to set end play with in the axle shafts?
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Dec 8, 2014 18:56
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Slung Blade posted:Way to go man. Differentials are loving hard. Is there anything to set end play with in the axle shafts? Technically, there are end play specs, but there isn't much to worry about or adjust. They're C-clip axles. Slide in, pop on a clip, then shove them back out to seat the clip. They're held in place by the pin going through the center of the diff. If the end play gets excessive, SOP is to replace the axle shafts from what I've seen. Not my picture, but it gives an idea of what's going on back there: 
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Dec 8, 2014 20:13
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Mmm, yeah, dem's some fine lookin' bolts.  Weekend's supposed to be pretty nice so I'll probably get the calipers bolted on (minus rotors) and get the new soft lines on, fluid in, and get the rear end installed. I'm thinking I'll probably need to pick up a 3rd quart of diff fluid since the general consensus is that a dry diff will take 2.5. Any opinions here on whether or not the LSD out of a '80 Trans-Am needs the friction modifier? The fluid I'm using claims that it has the Limited Slip additive and it doesn't need it, but I've heard yea and nay on this. I'll get some more shots this weekend for another update.
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Dec 12, 2014 03:09
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Fill the diff with straight fluid and drive it around. If the LSD is too grabby around turns, add friction modifier 1 ounce at a time until it drives smoothly. The modifier reduces the friction at the clutches. More modifier means more slip, and too much modifier means one wheel peels until you change the fluid again.
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Dec 12, 2014 14:53
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What fluid are you actually using?
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Dec 12, 2014 16:39
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Grabbed a couple quarts of Valvoline conventional 80w90. Opinions on that?
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Dec 12, 2014 19:48
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Holy poo poo, there is actual progress happening in my garage! I didn't even get to touch a wrench yesterday due to other fuckery (including getting my AISS stuff together), so I wanted to spend some time out there today. I got a later start than I wanted, but I still finished everything that I set out to do. Plan for today was to get the calipers and soft brake lines on and then get the rear end back on the leaves. I'll be replacing these leaves before too awful long, so pay no attention to their scumminess. Same goes for the shocks. Obviously, I didn't put the rear rotors on. This is mainly because I don't have them yet. I have a strong suspicion that I'll be getting them for Christmas so I've got my fingers crossed for that. I didn't fill the diff with fluid yet because I want to make absolutely sure that the rotors will fit over my axle shafts. If I have to pull the shafts to get them machined down, I don't want to have to fill the diff twice. Once I got the brackets and calipers on, I got the stainless lines to the calipers and the soft line that goes to the feed from the master cylinder installed. With all that buttoned up, I moved the rear end moved to the floor jack and eventually wrestled it into place on the leaves. I didn't get many pictures of the process but I can assure you they would all be incredibly boring. Here are the results:    Looks pretty stupid without the rotors, but I'll get a shot up when I get them installed.
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Dec 15, 2014 01:55
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Grabbed a couple quarts of Valvoline conventional 80w90. Opinions on that? I've never heard of any conventional oil that supposedly has the friction modifiers built in. Nothing wrong with running one but the only oils I've seen that claim to have the right mix are all full synthetics (Mobil1, Lucas, Royal Purple, etc).
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Dec 15, 2014 04:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've never heard of any conventional oil that supposedly has the friction modifiers built in. Nothing wrong with running one but the only oils I've seen that claim to have the right mix are all full synthetics (Mobil1, Lucas, Royal Purple, etc). It's their "high performance" oil, but now that I look, I don't see any mention of it being specifically conventional. No synthetic label either. Kinda strange.
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Dec 15, 2014 05:49
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Holy poo poo, I can't believe I didn't see this thread until now. If you ever need a hand/tools/advice, shoot me an email at matthew DOT swingler AT gmail DOT com. I live up in Zion so I assume you're close if you're going to AP City for boneyard fun.
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Dec 15, 2014 07:04
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lolricecamrylol posted:Holy poo poo, I can't believe I didn't see this thread until now. Neat! Could have used an extra pair of hands yesterday, but oh well. Don't know how far west you get, but I'm over by McHenry county. I checked out that yard in Zion a while back and was thoroughly disappointed. I'll be dropping the engine back in it in the spring (hopefully) and my dad's volunteered to come up and help, but another pair of eyes and hands couldn't hurt. May drop you a line then.
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Dec 15, 2014 23:43
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How long did setting up the gears actually take, from first try to final install? From what I've seen it looks like it's not HARD, but it's tedious and potentially frustrating. Thoughts?
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Dec 16, 2014 20:01
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Astonishing Wang posted:How long did setting up the gears actually take, from first try to final install? From what I've seen it looks like it's not HARD, but it's tedious and potentially frustrating. Thoughts? That's pretty accurate. Not necessarily hard, but it was tedious and a bit time consuming. Once I finally sat down with everything ready to go (setup pinion bearings ready to go, carrier assembled, new races, etc.), it took me a few hours to get everything right: - Get the pinion in - check the bearing preload - drop the carrier in - torque carrier caps - check backlash - shim as necessary (this involves multiple installs and removals of the carrier and torquing the caps every time) - apply compound and run a pattern - check pattern against diagrams and pictures - pull everything apart and clean off compound - repeat patterns as necessary (while checking the correct preload on the pinion and backlash on the carrier EVERY TIME) That was the majority of a Saturday. A week later, I got the actual new bearing on the pinion and did final assembly. That was another hour or two since I took my time. I wouldn't call the process hard, but I definitely wouldn't call it easy.
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Dec 16, 2014 22:21
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PARTS! Well I struck out on a possible T56 at the yard today, so that was disappointing, but my wife got me some rear rotors and new front shocks for Hanukkah, so I'm pretty pumped for that. I'll get the shocks slammed in tomorrow and then shift focus to the brakes. Those rotors are the last actual parts that I need, so there's nothing stopping me from getting the brakes actually loving DONE now. Expect another update with pictures tomorrow night.
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Dec 21, 2014 06:02
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Well gently caress. Turn out the shocks that my wife bought me - the shock that I put on my wishlist because I was under the impression they would fit - don't loving fit. Not even close to fitting through the lower control arm hole. Crap. They will be returned to Amazon and I will use that refunded money to buy a wheel without taking it out of my budget, so that's nice. The rear rotors on the other hand... ...TOTALLY loving FIT HELL YEAH.  I did have to hog out the center hole just a hair to get it to fit around the middle of the axle shaft, but that was a very small inconvenience. Once I got the new rotors on and got the pads and calipers back on, I rechecked all the brake fittings, bled the master cylinder (used these and some clear tubing. Worked like a charm), and started bleeding brakes. Luckily, my in-laws were coming over for dinner so I had my father-in-law do the pumping while I watched the fluid. Sadly, because I'm a dumbass, I didn't have enough new fluid on hand and ran out before I could do the fronts. Once I get the front brakes bled, I can actually call the brakes DONE. Until I find a wrecked CTS-V anyway... 
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Dec 22, 2014 05:47
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Waiting on some new parts to get here, but I had the day off so I figured I had to get something done. Did some general cleanup of the garage and workbench and then realized I had three quarts of gear oil to pour. Got my 2.25ish quarts in, tightened the fill plug, then proceeded to notice a very tiny drop forming at the bottom of the diff cover. Mother. Fucker. I must've missed a little spot with the rtv when I installed the loving thing. I'll be attempting to catch as much lube as I can to re-use and reseal the cover tomorrow. Hopefully those parts will be here soon and I'll have something to show you guys.
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Dec 27, 2014 04:59
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Got the differential cover installed. AGAIN. Made sure to put a fat bead of RTV around the whole thing this time and did a double line on the bottom half. I'll hit it with the fluid next weekend to give it a full 7 days to cure. In the meantime... 
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Dec 27, 2014 23:26
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You tease.
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Dec 28, 2014 04:11
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Aww hell yes. Can't wait to see that installed.
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Dec 28, 2014 19:11
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Did you use the diff cover gasket and rtv or just the rtv? When I changed the fluid in my Camaro there wasnt a gasket, just gobs of rtv, I replaced it with a paper gasket and a thin bead of rtv on both sides, still dry after 3 years.
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Dec 28, 2014 19:57
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Just RTV. I did my Mustang the same way a few years back and it's had zero leaks. I have a paper gasket that came with the rebuild kit, so that's an option if I need it.
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Dec 28, 2014 20:11
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Kind of a derail, but is there any reason not to use the paper gasket and high tack? I hate globbing RTV onto everything, but if it works better I can do that.
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Dec 29, 2014 08:22
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I've had this method work in the past without an issue. I've heard the 8.5s like to leak with the paper gasket as well, so I figured I'd stick with what I know. Unrelated, but how the gently caress can a package be picked up in Ohio at 10:00 on Friday night and still be in loving Ohio at 4:00 on Monday morning? Ohio isn't that big.
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Dec 29, 2014 14:44
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Easy, picked up at quitting time on Friday, drunk all weekend, start work late on Monday.
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Dec 29, 2014 17:15
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OH gently caress  YES.  Cragar Soft 8 in 17x8. I only ordered one wheel at this time for test fitting purposes. The 8"s will go on the front and I'll be getting some 9"s for the rear. I plan on running 245/45s up front and I'm pretty sure they'll fit, but I may have to trim my brake line bracket just a hair. It's going to be pretty close at full lock. That won't be a big deal at all. Based on measurements, I should have plenty of room out back as well for the 9"s and the 275/40s that will be going on them. I'll be getting some new lugnuts as well. I'm so loving excited to be buying wheels. I'll probably order a tire tonight and get it mounted as soon as it shows up. I need a shower. Edit: I think they may need a stripe... Edit the second: Tire and 4 shiny new lug nuts are coming and should be here early next week. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 02:37
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