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Bump to stay out of archives. Investigating some local wheels, and maybe found some ebay style 66's. Has anyone had e38 m-pars bored out to the right size? Im tempted to go that route becaues oem m-pars from e39s are pretty expensive.
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Dec 20, 2014 16:11
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I'm having the same issue right now... ECS sells all four e60 hubs for $360 (I'm sure you can find them somewhere else cheaper). There are also 13mm hub bore conversion spacers but they run like >$200. For that price I would just do the hubs unless you're going for a hellaflush look. Finding people to machine the wheels might be tricky as a lot of shops don't want the responsibility.
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Dec 20, 2014 16:18
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Yeah. There are a few e39s locally being parted out. I found some super cheap oem m-pars...then realized they were e38 wheels. Unghhh
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Dec 20, 2014 16:58
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There is a local selling 17" AC schnitzer 5 stars for 600 bucks locally. Considering a lowball offer to see if he bites. E: poo poo, and a set of chromed m-pars for 725. Those are 18". Id pay 6 bills for those, assuming they are clean. PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jan 11, 2015 |
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Jan 11, 2015 18:05
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PaintVagrant posted:There is a local selling 17" AC schnitzer 5 stars for 600 bucks locally. Considering a lowball offer to see if he bites. What tires do you get for 18s? I tried looking and nothing in the stock width (235s) seemed to have enough load rating on them. So for that my vote is the ACs.
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Jan 12, 2015 02:53
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Oh hey, this thread. Since I also own a beater5, I may as well post here that Autoxpresstech (in MA) successfully repaired my ABS module for $80, which is the cheapest I've seen yet. Keep note of what part number you send out, though. The Bosch 5.7 was used in a few different vehicles, and they sent me an Audi/VW unit back by mistake. They fixed it quickly though, and it was an honest mistake since they're identical, but the BMW harness won't connect to the Audi/VW module.
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Jan 12, 2015 15:13
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mafoose posted:What tires do you get for 18s? I tried looking and nothing in the stock width (235s) seemed to have enough load rating on them. Hrm, I havent done much research on 18" tires, been too busy looking for wheels  I know it can be done, although I am not really that familiar with how load ratings work. CornHolio posted:Oh hey, this thread. Good to hear! I am pretty sure my module is bad, I am getting all the typical brake and ABS lights. good to know there is a reasonably priced option.
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Jan 14, 2015 01:02
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If you get a tire with too small a load rating, the car can (not necessarily will) feel a little squishier. You'll have to air up the tires higher than on the door jamb, and you'll risk bubbling a tire or bending a wheel if you hit something (more so than with the appropriate rating). Get something with too much of a load rating and you'll feel every bump. My brake light shut off after I replaced the vacuum line to the brake master. DSC and ABS are still on though, haven't done any more troubleshooting.
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Jan 14, 2015 12:10
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I'll keep that in mind when shopping. I am starting to lean towards 17's anyways just for cheaper wheels and tires combos since this will just a beater daily. My front rotors are def warped so between fixing that, new fluid and sensors, I am hoping to clear some of those codes. Any tips on fixing the ever-present leaking power steering? Its leaking too much to ignore, Ive got a nice red atf spot on my garage floor under it. Ive heard the hoses are spendy, but perhaps just some new clamps or o-rings might resolve it?
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Jan 15, 2015 21:36
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PaintVagrant posted:I'll keep that in mind when shopping. I am starting to lean towards 17's anyways just for cheaper wheels and tires combos since this will just a beater daily. take your old hoses to a shop that makes hoses and they can replicate them pretty reasonably. But where is it leaking at exactly too?
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Jan 15, 2015 21:48
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Like stated, have them rebuilt! I would check with industrial hydraulic hose places as well as automotive ones.
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Jan 16, 2015 06:15
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http://youtu.be/FbvSsYMNGgk Just leaving this here as a reminder to squirrel away as much cash as I can to get this bad bitch brunhilda beater5 fully operational as soon as it is warm. e: good advice on the hoses guys, I will look into that. Not sure where its leaking but its def leaking a lot. Ill know more when I can get it out of my very full garage and its not fuckin freezing
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Jan 18, 2015 00:24
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Mafoose for load rating should I be looking at xl because this girl has a fat butt?
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Jan 19, 2015 18:16
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Sometimes the XL aren't even enough! I think stock the 16s are a 95 load rating, and the 17s a 94. I can't find anything about 18s since only the M5 came with them and they were significantly wider.
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Jan 20, 2015 03:45
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Grabbed some lightweight 17 x 8 BBS Style 42's (tires are garbage) off of CL for a couple of bills. The bores need to be refinished, common issue on these wheels but I will probably just strip them and dip them for now. I think the contrast between the dipped bore (maybe a pewter color? and the stock aluminum) migt be cool looking.  I did, however, pay the iron price  
PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jan 25, 2015 |
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Jan 24, 2015 22:12
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If you're keeping them, remove the centers and have the lips repolished! One of my favorite wheels... I can't find anything local for my beater5!
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Jan 24, 2015 23:15
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Yeah I saw these and jumped on them. I wonder what the repolishing would run me.
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Jan 24, 2015 23:20
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PaintVagrant posted:Yeah I saw these and jumped on them. I wonder what the repolishing would run me. Shouldn't be much, since it's just the lip, the centers look great, even the bolts, which usually go to hell. Nice wheels, even though they aren't M-pars. 
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Jan 24, 2015 23:48
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Yeah cant bitch for 200 bux! E: one day i will score m-pars!
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Jan 25, 2015 00:06
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Usually the PS hoses that leak are the low pressure ones. I did both of those and replaced the reservoir for under $100 I think and it hasn't leaked since. If it's the high pressure one leaking, you will know quickly.....
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Jan 26, 2015 00:44
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Had a pretty AI day. A buddy of mine has a Mazda 6S 3.0L. Its accesory belt tensioner seized and cause the water pump to not pump properly and boil some coolant out. Mazda actually nixed the tensioner because of failures in later year models with the same engine, but he is learly of "modding" his car by deleting the tensioner so he bought some autozone parts and we fixed it. Took 10 minutes or so, runs like a champ and the light pulley noise we had been hearing has mysteriously vanished! Worked on Rhonda Burgundys front brakes, everything went super smooth until the fuckhead rotor screws wouldnt come out. I completely destroyed a HF impact screwdriver bit, twisted the poo poo out of the tip. I had to just forgo rotor replacement because of time, luckily the rotors arent too bad. Kastein gave me some good advice in the noob thread about how to get them out next time. While all this was going on, some high school kids cargo van got a flat tire on my street. They saw me working outside and borrowed my 3 ton jack and some tools to get their spare on. They were nice kids, one of them tried to chat with me about cars even though he admitted he didnt know much. He asked me about my BMW, because "British cars are cool" 
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Feb 1, 2015 20:19
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Ordered motor mounts, trans mounts, tie rod links, and a fuel filter. Just hoping for some decent weather to install this poo poo!
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Feb 5, 2015 22:51
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Jesus christ you're ambitious. fuel filter has been on my to-do list for a year now.
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Feb 6, 2015 09:46
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Motor mounts were cake. Wobble extensions and it's easy peasy. What shape are your vacuum lines in? I cracked the big booster line when doing mine because you have to jack up the engine to clear the new mounts. If I can stop my car from eating regulators, I'd be doing the 545i shifter, shifter bushings, and new trans mounts as well. E: buy the motor mount o-rings. If you're lucky, yours haven't failed. If you're unlucky, at least the motor mount is already off, and then all you have to do is remove the alternator. mafoose fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Feb 6, 2015 |
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Feb 6, 2015 13:13
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Powershift posted:Jesus christ you're ambitious. I have a burning desire to stop driving honda civics Mafoose, I did not order the rings but I'll hop on Pelican and order them now. Not sure if I need them but I want to be ready, and I am pretty sure Pelican will take back whatever parts I dont need. Vacuum lines seem in decent shape, nothing too brittle as far as I can tell. I guess we will see when I start the job.
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Feb 6, 2015 15:12
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The lines will probably be brittle. even my windshield washer fluid lines were like chalk, just crumbled.
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Feb 6, 2015 15:21
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The E39 fuel filter looks like the E34 so it'll be super easy to access and a complete pain in the dick to actually remove. Bring spares for every part touching the filter.
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Feb 10, 2015 07:34
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Tie rod ends, fuel filter, motor mounts, trans mounts, radiator mounts: obtained 4 x sumitomo HTR Z 3 summer tires: obtained warm weather: ...
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Feb 14, 2015 19:54
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If enough of this snow melts today I might move the bimmer out of the garage and start some work! We are supposed to be above freezing for like 5 days straight!  List of things to do: Tie rod ends Get tired mounted and clean up the wheels and dip them Address valve cover leaks again Fuel filter Trans mounts Motor mounts
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Mar 7, 2015 16:59
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Got a new av to go with my thread. I also tried to run a compression test on my 540 and killed the battery in the process. Ordered a battery charger but it will have to wait til next week. Bled the civics clutch hydraulics, it's been grumpy getting into gears and inconsistently shifting. It helped, but it's still not right. Going to replace the cmc and slave before I even think of replacing a friction plate. It doesn't feel like a weak clutch at all,but the friction point is all over the place and vague as hell. Hoping 80 bux worth of hydraulics fixes it!
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Mar 16, 2015 21:43
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What about your rubber pipes? Sounds like one might be a bit collapsed.
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Mar 16, 2015 22:34
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It's hard to see them to be honest. Cramped engine bay, but when I pull the above hood panel piece I should be able to assess better.
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Mar 16, 2015 23:44
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So I bought a new car, no new pics yet but its a 2007 civic si (fa5) 4-door. Its pretty cool. I will post pics once i give her a real wash. Did a bunch of non-BMW related work today. Changed both civic's oil in the 28 degree, windy as gently caress day. Also did new rotors, pads, and plugs for Rhonda Burgundy, the civic EX. Had the parts already, going to sell it soon but I want it to be as nice as possible. Installing new clutch hydraulics tomorrow. Going forward, 540i work is delayed til the burgundy civic is sold, and blue civic is DD-able (it seems to be now, but it might need a few things). I am not sure the ultimate fate of the bimmer, we will see how much I like it after I put all these parts on it and drive it a bit. I also need to charge the battery, which I will try to hook up tomorrow. Long weekend, lets hope tomorrow is warmer than today was.
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Mar 29, 2015 01:42
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Here is the FA5
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Apr 7, 2015 00:48
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8ender posted:The E39 fuel filter looks like the E34 so it'll be super easy to access and a complete pain in the dick to actually remove. Bring spares for every part touching the filter. Changing the fuel filter on my old e39 540 was the easiest thing in the world. Admittedly that car was only like 6-7 years old the first time I did it, but it was just the usual pain in the rear end of pulling off fuel lines stuff. Took me like 20 minutes maybe with the car driven up on ramps? Have to do this on my E46 soon along with all the other usual new-used-car maintenance crap now that it's a bit warmer.
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Apr 7, 2015 01:16
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 37&,92@2!);;7, gently caress this cmc location forever. Have to do one on my Si next. That will be much easier though because I can bin the original hardline, thank god. PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Apr 12, 2015 |
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Apr 12, 2015 17:41
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Boring Honda update: Replaced outer tie rods on my FA5 and got it aligned. Seems to track better, thankfully. Also replaced the stripped brake caliper bracket on the civic EX, it stripped when I was rebuilding it, so I got to rebuild it again No big deal, mounted up fine this time.Replaced the serp belt tensioner and belt on the FA5 also, as I was getting some pulley whine during acceleration. Seems to have quieted it some, but getting that tensioner out is a bitch because of how tight the clearance is. I also put a new battery in the 540i, which is neat because now I can drive it the 10 feet I need to move it out of the way of my other cars  Coming soon: FA5 - ball joints FA5 - hybrid racing em1 cmc conversion kit, and corsport shifter base bushings and shift cable bushings 540i - sand the style 42s and then get the tires mounted, then probably just plastidip them for now PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 18:12 on May 21, 2015 |
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May 21, 2015 18:03
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Yet another 8th gen civic cmc job  Hybrid em1 cmc conversion. A higher quality cmc that doesn't have plastic internals that fail and cause poor shifting/lockouts and grinds. 
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May 23, 2015 19:20
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EM1 CMC conversion for life! So good. Its like a different car now, what an amazing difference.
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May 25, 2015 17:21
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Swapped in the Civic Si corsport shifter cable and shifter base bushings today. Really tightened up the shifter, but there is still some forward/backward play that I assume must be from a stretched cable or something. I am am not sure how to fix that, if it involves swapping shifter cables...gently caress that. Overall really happy. Next project is disassembling the BMW wheels and sanding/painting them.
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Jun 7, 2015 04:15
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