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  Plugs, new oil pan/gasket, valve and timing cover gaskets done. Apparently if I drink half a pot of coffee at 8pm, magic happens. Going to look at a cheap 50cc scooter for the missus tomorrow, then tackle the GDCS. This weekend is going to be AI as gently caress.
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Aug 2, 2014 08:52
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No go on the scooter, but got the oil in, waterpump and tstat on, belts on. Need to pick up some hardware and then tackle this radiator and shroud. Might start it this weekend 
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Aug 3, 2014 08:02
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Got everything buttoned up, GDCS replaced entirely. Fluids in, started it, idles and revs great. After a couple of minutes, realized the area where timing cover and valve cover meet is dripping a little oil, on both sides. Not sure if I should drain oil and re torque everything, or just pull them and put more rtc in those areas. Any ideas? Are the gaskets garbage now?
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Aug 4, 2014 18:27
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Not familar with the layout of the V8, but could you possible snug the bolts in that area just a little tighter? EDIT: Also I know on the straight sixes you're supposed to replace the VC bolt grommets along with the gasket otherwise you have a tendency to get leaks. revmoo fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Aug 4, 2014 |
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Aug 4, 2014 19:02
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I did replace the grommets, and they aren't leaking thankfully. I ran out of time last night but I will tighten up the bolts a little tonight and see how it goes. Maybe get some sweet video of the car making vroom noises.
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Aug 4, 2014 19:46
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Metallic gold valve covers and timing cover probably wouldn't have leaked 
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Aug 7, 2014 02:09
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Powershift posted:Metallic gold valve covers and timing cover probably wouldn't have leaked Sigh. they prob would, I think the issue is that the timing gasket sticks up out of the mating point of the covers. Then the valve cover gasket goes over it, creating a little gap. I am not sure what to do about it other than tear it all down,I tightened the bolts a bit and I think its still seeping. Not sure how to force the timing cover gasket further into the gap, but I assume thats the issue. Its leaking there on both sides, and as far as I can tell, nowhere else. E: if I have to buy new valve covers, I will spray them gold for you buddy. You get your aux fan issues sorted?
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Aug 7, 2014 02:14
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PaintVagrant posted:You get your aux fan issues sorted? No, i can't find my big hammer. I think i left it in my super duty. my ext temp sensor is gone, and some folks say the car uses that for climate control stuff, so i might short the plug and see if i can make the car think it's +40*c outside instead of -40*c i work at a really slow pace.
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Aug 7, 2014 02:19
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Ive heard that about the ambient temperature sensor too. You'd better hurry up man! I am a hoseclamp and a couple of minor oil leaks away from being roadworthy! So, after a few weeks of sitting with the battery disconnected, my pixels came back?!
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Aug 7, 2014 03:02
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PaintVagrant posted:Ive heard that about the ambient temperature sensor too. once the cluster warms up you'll probably lose the pixels agian. My car is roadworthy, there's just a lot of janky stuff that i don't care enough to put money into right now. So i just drive around without a/c, and don't use the drivers side window. if i need to adjust the blower fan, i just stick the tire depth gauge into the hole where the missing button would have pressed. There's a bunch of little luxury poo poo that i should fix, but luxury stuff is pretty far down on the project list.
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Aug 7, 2014 03:12
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Word. A/c is a must because I am a baby, but other little poo poo like my broken rear door handle and inoperable rear power windows...eh. Not a huge concern. One problem with having my pixels work is that I can read all the stupid warnings that aren't true: http://youtu.be/8y6EUtkAYY8
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Aug 7, 2014 03:27
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Air in the brake system will give you that brake fluid warning. might be worth a bleed. Love the sound of that engine though. I'm contemplating pulling the muffler off. It's got a resonator further up in the exhaust, so the muffler is really useless.
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Aug 7, 2014 03:32
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I am pretty sure I am catless.. Not really sure what to look for, but there is a muffler in place but the big stock scuba tank thing are gone. The idle isnt too lopey but it loving shrieks murderscreams at anything over 3500 rpm. Definitely my favorite sounding car that i have owned.
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Aug 7, 2014 03:36
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My boner reaches into the 4th dimension. http://youtu.be/XX0XCUW_Ees Jumped it from my Honda, let t idle about 20 minutes with the ac on, revving it like a teenager occasionally. Heat needle sat dead center. Going to have to address the valve cover leaks when I get back from vacay, but I am really encouraged by this success so far.  this whole wrenching thing is pretty addicting.
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Aug 9, 2014 19:12
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Powershift posted:My car is roadworthy, there's just a lot of janky stuff that i don't care enough to put money into right now. Shoulda bought a poormobile instead. Everything works on mine 
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Aug 9, 2014 21:20
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HotCanadianChick posted:Shoulda bought a poormobile instead. Everything works on mine I doubt a $1000 poormobile would be in any better nick.
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Aug 9, 2014 21:35
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Plate obtained! I can drive dis bitch. Also got the battery charged, it was really low from sitting/running the heat while I bled the cooling system.
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Aug 28, 2014 14:54
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Drove it around my neighborhood and took it out on a (sort of) main road. Got it up to about 45 in 2nd gear at full WOT. Holy poo poo, I have never had a car with this much torque. Really fun. I babied it otherwise because I am not confident in the suspension/brakes at the moment. Lots of work to still do. Heat needle sat dead middle the whole time. Handling however, leaves a lot to be desired. I am torn on getting new wheels and tires now, then redoing all the suspension bullshit that is wrong (has a front end shimmy). I dont want to diagnose problems that wouldnt exist if the car didnt have huge 20" wheels... So, I think the motor mounts and possibly trans mounts are shot. When I shift, it has a noticeable clunk that doesnt feel like a grabby clutch or a mis-shift. Also getting a little bit of clutch squeek in reverse when I am sort of half out of my driveway, with the suspension partially under load. Maybe the trans is moving a little bit? Definitely not ruling out clutch issues, but it grabs pretty hard at full WOT.
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Aug 28, 2014 19:45
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Definitely do motor mounts if there is some clunking. Mine did it very lightly under strange conditions, but I just did motor mounts and I never heard them again.
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Aug 28, 2014 19:47
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Definitely do motor mounts if there is some clunking. Mine did it very lightly under strange conditions, but I just did motor mounts and I never heard them again. Cool, glad to know my driver's seat diag makes sense at least. When I was under the car, I saw at least one motor mount that was basically blown out. Another question for 540i bros: is your gas pedal pretty hard to press down, and your clutch pedal really light? Its a weird combination that I am not used to. I am wondering if the throttle cables are binding or something. It doesnt seem to stick, but its got a lot of resistance for a gas pedal.
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Aug 28, 2014 19:51
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Speaking of clunks when shifting: http://www.rogueengineering.com/bmw/TM.html See if you have this sort of mount by checking out the DIY guide: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=804839
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Aug 28, 2014 20:47
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These look similar but arent quite as bananas expensive http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...CFStk7AodUXAAZQ I am torn, I will probably track this vehicle at some point, but its primarily goimg to be a DD and adding a ton of transmission vibration isnt neccesarily what I want. Anyone have any of these more rogid mounts in their bmw?
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Aug 30, 2014 02:06
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Found these pics on a forum, not my car. However, it will take 2 things to make my car look exactly like this: 18" m-pars (or reps), and black kidney grills. Thats it, I have the m5 front and rear bumper, as well as the little trunk lip spoiler. And I guess polishing the headlights I really like this dudes car, I think this is going to be my longterm goal for aesthetics. I like his ride height too, I think with 18"s my car will look similar.   
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Aug 30, 2014 16:03
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God drat, that looks good. As some one said in the name thread, M pars are always the answer.
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Aug 30, 2014 16:49
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Yeah parallels are so fuckin legit. Considering reps by if I can find real ones I might cough up the extra cash.
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Aug 30, 2014 17:00
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Pulled the drivers side fromt wheel. Yanked on various arms and inspected bushings. Looks like the control and thrust arms are fine, probably done pretty recently. Whoop! The tie rod ends, however, are blown the gently caress out and need to be replaced. Boo. Makes sense, the steering felt a little sloppy. So, to add to the list in the OP: Motor mounts Transmission mounts Tie rods/possibly center link. Bleed brakes Check CEL codes 18" m-parallels + tires 
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Aug 31, 2014 14:19
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Goddamn, that motor sounds fantastic!
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Aug 31, 2014 17:01
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Minor update. Did a brake fluid flush and a trans fluid change on my fiances accord. Ws pretty uneventful, but it was the first time i have done brakes at all so it was a learning experience. Once my garage gets cleared out, i can move the bmw back in there and it will stay in there on jackstands for a while. Going to do reddo the topend gaskets i did earlier in the thread because they are still leaking.. Might just replace the valve covers because i am wondering if they are warped a little. After that, motor mounts and trans mounts, and check the brakes. I think they need to be bled. Going to search for cheap wheels and tires over the winter, while the car is motballled. Budget has been a little tight so havent put a big order in for all the parts.
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Sep 21, 2014 18:03
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Bump to stay out of archives. Still searching for the holy grail of cheap parallels, or failing that, maybe Style 32's. I think someone might give me a nice "winter price" in a few months, hopefully.
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Oct 8, 2014 21:21
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Just found this thread, looks interesting considering I know nothing of BMWs. Where in Michigan are you? Looks similar to the Royal Oak area.
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Nov 3, 2014 16:24
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Just popping in to say great looking car, 540-brother! I tried and failed to do my valve cover gaskets (and made a mess of the sealant in the process, it's still on my jeans a year later) and also have no ext temp sensor. I actually replaced it once, and a piece of retread tore it off that week. I decided the gods just didn't want me to have one.
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Nov 3, 2014 23:11
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Not sure what price you're looking for, but these just popped up locally: http://desmoines.craigslist.org/pts/4735124508.html
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Nov 4, 2014 18:10
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M-pars are simpler twin spokes and they're 18s. Which is weird because those look like m5 wheels which I thought were 18s as well...
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Nov 5, 2014 02:10
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Style 66's are pretty dope. But M-pars rule my heart <3
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Nov 5, 2014 04:46
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You hacked your OBC yet? Temp sensor to the nearest C. Must-have. It's muscle memory for me on startup now. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1138110-Unlocking-the-OBC-(Low-and-High) prepare for terrornumbers if you are familiar with any other cars. M62 runs hot. e: Also thanks for the inspirationthread. I have a '97 that is currently non-op, it needs a battery, (probably) a fuel pump and (maybe) a coil or two. You've motivated me to go buy a battery this week and get to work!
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Nov 5, 2014 11:01
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Jonny 290 posted:You hacked your OBC yet? Temp sensor to the nearest C. Must-have. Its on my list of things. I was considering just plugging in my obd2 dongle to my laptop and keeping an eye on temp that way. Whats an acceptable temp range for the M62?
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Nov 6, 2014 14:54
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Say I was looking at a very clean, sub 100k, 6 speed 540i m-sport grey/grey with records indicating new clutch and cooling system bits. Seems to be enthusiast owned, no boy racer add ons. What would be the fair upper price range for such a thing?
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Nov 7, 2014 00:09
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Under 100k? I mean if it's one of those ones where you can eat off the engine, I might be persuaded to part with up to, oh, 7 to 8k if I was specifically 540hunting? It depends on if it has VANOS and if it's been serviced as well. I gave 4900 for my one owner '97 black/tan with 8/10 paint and 160k. PaintVagrant posted:Whats an acceptable temp range for the M62? Haha, can of worms OPENED. People often debate about this and some idiots actually hamstring the fancy stock thermostat so that it opens sooner/faster from my experience one in good shape should be cruising around 98-102? and you should see a few degrees higher at heatsoak stoplights. Cooling system performance changes are very noticeable with the hacked cluster, and my temps dropped about 5c across the board when I replaced a slightly lovely radiator and expansion tank. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Nov 7, 2014 |
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Nov 7, 2014 02:57
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I'm still shocked as to how hot almost all bmw motors run. 100+ish is completely normal.
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Nov 7, 2014 03:36
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Dammit, this just bumped up fixing my high obc on the long list of things to do.
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Nov 7, 2014 03:47
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