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PleasusChrist posted:When can we expect a similar video? It needs to stop raining, I tried to take it out a couple days after it rained and almost died so it has been parked. I need some tires too, the dyno almost destroyed my drag radials. I'll probably go with MH 235/60/15s this time instead of the 225/50/15 MT ET Streets.
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Apr 17, 2015 03:09
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I wish I could get to 9400 RPM 
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Apr 17, 2015 06:59
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I took it out last night to make a run down the track but broke an axle driving to the track. I ended up buying some MT ET Streets in 225/50/15 and they ended up being too much for the poor 475hp axle. I'm going to order some 1000hp axles on Monday, hopefully they will arrive before next weekend so I can make a pass before I leave for this trip (I'll be back from that around the end of June). I really hope I didn't break the diff as well, but if I did that is under warranty so it will just be the labor of swapping it out.
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May 3, 2015 04:36
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doogle posted:I took it out last night to make a run down the track but broke an axle driving to the track. I ended up buying some MT ET Streets in 225/50/15 and they ended up being too much for the poor 475hp axle. I'm going to order some 1000hp axles on Monday, hopefully they will arrive before next weekend so I can make a pass before I leave for this trip (I'll be back from that around the end of June). I really hope I didn't break the diff as well, but if I did that is under warranty so it will just be the labor of swapping it out.
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May 3, 2015 12:41
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Let me know when and where you're going to run the thing, I'd love to see it in person.
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May 3, 2015 14:53
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InitialDave posted:Ouch, where did the driveshaft let go? I always imagined that a FWD shaft snapping could rapidly get very messy if it ends up thrashing around and hitting things. The CV joint broke on this one, I was even able to limp it home ~15 miles without too much issue. I have a drive shaft shop 2.9 axle on the passenger side and an autozone axle on the driver's side. Guess which one broke? The driveshaft shop axle. There is an intermediate shaft on the driver's side so the axles are the same length, and probably because of that the driver's side axle almost never breaks. I'm about 70% sure mine broke when I hit boost at almost the same time that I hit a pothole. The axle started clicking pretty bad about a mile after that. The good news is the diff isn't broken, I put an autozone axle in the passenger side and was able to drive it around, albeit fairly carefully, without a problem.
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May 3, 2015 15:41
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Ever used axles from https://www.raxles.com? I cant speak from experience with high hp Hondas but on all the road race ones I've worked on they have been great.
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May 4, 2015 19:36
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So I'm kind of tempted to pick up a cheap EG and pseudo-doogle it from the Home Depot plumbing aisle. ilovetacotaco on ebay just has too much crazy poo poo for near-zero dollars, and there are a lot of "grown up" guys in my area who have built Honda gear from decades past clogging up their garages and threatening to scratch their leased C63s.
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Aug 2, 2015 23:47
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Don't die, little thread. I need you to tell me what to spend my money on. I'm not too familiar with how much adjustment you have with the stock ECU; is it pretty much all new firmware that supports new inputs and outputs (e.g. nitrous solenoid)? I had assumed it was basically table tinkering.
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Jan 16, 2016 01:04
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There isn't much you can do with the stock ecu. What most guys do is get a P28, have it socketed and then have a Xenocron chip put in it, which is then customized/tuned to your particular car. If you're running the stock engine, though, I wouldn't bother. The socketed p28 only applies if you do an engine swap of some kind (say to a B-series) or if you add boost. You will definitely want to get it tuned if you boost it, however, since trying to run a base map will probably end up with you cooking the motor.
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Jan 17, 2016 06:22
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Sure, but the 'chip' just contains maps, right? You can't substantially change how the ECU behaves? I think I also needed a P28 ECU if I wanted to do a mini-me swap, which makes sense since you'd have to retune it.
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Jan 17, 2016 06:36
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Correct. The chip contains predefined maps that can emulate whatever the stock ecu is for your engine and then the tune sort of dials in specifics based on your setup. As far as the mini-me, yes, you would need a p28 since your current ecu (p06, if it's a DX) has no way of doing anything with VTEC. You will also have to run the wiring for a few solenoids to the ecu. If you have a 92 it will be wired from the shock tower connector back to the ecu already, you will have to run the wiring from the VTEC solenoid and one other thing to the shock tower connector. This is all stuff I have read on honda-tech and have not done myself. The FAQ section in the 92-00 section of their forums will explain better than I can.
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Jan 17, 2016 07:37
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I'm back! For now, at least. Updates since my last post: The EG's trans is out and being rebuilt with a stronger 3rd/4th gear (full boost = death to the stock honda gears, apparently), hopefully it will be back in the car before Spring for some sweet, sweet 1/4 mile passes. The EF is going to get a tune on Monday for the newly rebuilt D16z6, it has 11:1 compression and a BC cam I got for a dollar, so hopefully it makes >120whp. The BMW has a slipping clutch and back to stock boost levels to limp it along until the EF is done. Basically, I got back to the US and have .75/3 cars working! Seat Safety Switch posted:Don't die, little thread. I need you to tell me what to spend my money on. If you get a regular ECU chip, it just remaps the ECU. If you get a Hondata chip, it has additional I/O on the chip itself, which emulates an ECU chip and can change parameters on the fly. It is still constrained to the limits of the stock ECU, but you have far more options with Hondata/Neptune RTP than you do with a stock ECU. If you are buying new stuff just go with AEM as it comes out to about the same amount of money. For N/A or basic boost stuff (<250hp) I would just go with Chrome as it is free and you just burn it on a chip. Seat Safety Switch posted:Sure, but the 'chip' just contains maps, right? You can't substantially change how the ECU behaves? You need a P28 for a mini-me swap (or any Vtec ECU, but p28s are the easiest/cheapest to get), but really just buy a complete d16z6 or d16y8, the motors are cheap enough at this point that the mini-me is cost prohibitive.
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Feb 6, 2016 05:40
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Updates: The EF made 130whp, not bad for an amalgamation of OEM Honda parts and a cam. Final build for the EF was: D16z6 Head/block D16y8 Intake manifold B18b1 throttle body D16a6 pistons B18b1 rods BC stage 1 cam/valvesprings Head decked, final compression ratio: 11.2:1 All going through a hydro EX trans (pretty much like an Si trans but with a longer 5th). I forgot to get an adjustable cam gear. I may throw one on, get a velocity stack intake and get it retuned to rev it out a couple hundred more RPM and pick up ~5hp. For the EG the trans is back together and I will probably drop it in the car in 2 weeks when I can borrow my friend's lift again. I will post the biggest burnout video ever once it is back together as I just got a new set of drag radials so I have to use the rest of the old ones up obviously.
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Mar 10, 2016 18:23
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Man, I would be perfectly happy with that dyno sheet. Is it fun to drive?
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Mar 10, 2016 18:55
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doogle posted:Updates: What do those get you over stock d series rods? A quick google shows slightly thinner, if I'm reading it right, so basically a little less rotating mass?
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Mar 10, 2016 19:00
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ssjonizuka posted:What do those get you over stock d series rods? A quick google shows slightly thinner, if I'm reading it right, so basically a little less rotating mass? The B18a/b rods are stronger, probably because of the bigger pin size. I was going to spray the car and those rods are good to ~300hp. The car is very fun to drive around town as it is, it will be even more fun once I get the rest of the energy suspension bushings pressed in and the rear sway installed. I also got a good deal on some Falken Azenis RT615k tires, so once I finish the suspension I'll get those installed along with an alignment and have the perfect daily (EVEN HAS A/C!).
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Mar 10, 2016 22:32
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No real updates on the EG, still waiting for a spot on my friend's lift and I've been super busy at work for the past ~6 months. I started to do the suspension on the EF but found out I have DA rear trailing arms on it so I have to order a different set of rear trailing arm bushings since the DA integra ones are of a slightly larger diameter than the civic bushings. Hopefully I'll get the bushings in before next weekend so I can finish the suspension, get an alignment and put the new tires on. And if the stars align the lift will be free when I don't have to work so I can finally get the turbo car back on the road as well. We are going to some giant Honda meet near Charlotte on June 11th so it has to be 100% before then. EF with Koni Yellows/Eibach springs (THANKS rowebot44!) and Function7 lower control arms.  Rear trailing arms off with the bushings out  Sweet rear sway bar we found at my buddy's shop  Super busted old RTAB vs new wrong RTAB  Complete ITR trans with fully built 1-4, LSD, and speed factory shift change assembly ready to be dropped back in the turbo car  I bought a set of Del Sol seats so I can get a good passenger seat in the turbo car. They are a bit dirty and the driver's side is torn but I only needed the passenger side anyway.
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Apr 16, 2016 21:04
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I was looking at doing the RTABs when I did the rear drums but it looked like too much extra work, especially with the handbrake cables. Tempted to throw it at a shop, especially since I'm sure everything is going to be seized and break. Those control arms are gorgeous, I put on GS-R parts-store arms with bushings from RockAuto. How are your toe arms looking?
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Apr 17, 2016 00:37
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I was looking at doing the RTABs when I did the rear drums but it looked like too much extra work, especially with the handbrake cables. I've never done RTABs with drums, but with disc brakes they are pretty easy to do. As long as you measure the angle that you need (I just drew a line with a marker) and the depth the RTAB goes in all you need is a mallet. I just go from 12->3->6->9 (clock positions) with the mallet until it is out from the back side of the trailing arm and towards the outside of the car. Once you clock the new RTAB you just tap it in from the outside of the car towards the center. Mine were definitely original bushings from ~90-93 and they would have only taken ~1 hour had I purchased the correct bushings. The handbrake cables for disc brakes are super easy, there is a cotter pin to pull that releases a pin and a tab that will probably be super rusty.   There are 2 12mm bolts that hold the cable to the rear trailing arm as well, then the cable pulls through and free of the arm. edit: RTA bushings are pretty important for handling and going from worn out bushings to new, upgraded bushings completely changes how the car handles. If you can do it yourself that would be #1 to do on my list. doogle fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Apr 17, 2016 |
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Apr 17, 2016 01:13
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 Front lower control arms out, I'm getting the bushings pressed out tomorrow so I can throw the energy suspension poly bushings in.  I got the hardrace DA rear trail arm bushings in the mail today  As well as some new OEM rear upper control arms. edit: EF things to do: Find a front passenger side fender liner Install velocity stack filter in a permanent location Install rear sway bar Install energy suspension front bushings Install RTABs Get new tires mounted/alignment done Install adjustable cam gear/new cam seal (THANKS FOR THE LEAKS, FELPRO) Find EF Si seats or get seat covers I should have 3/4 of this done over the weekend, then hopefully next weekend I can start/finish on the turbo car. doogle fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Apr 22, 2016 |
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Apr 22, 2016 02:11
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This is a Swell Thread and I hope it keeps going.
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Apr 22, 2016 20:06
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I got the front suspension done and I'll post pictures later today/tomorrow. I feel like poo poo so the rear suspension will have to wait. The energy suspension poly bushings fought with me the whole time and I got the grease loving everywhere too, so all my tools will be sticky for the next 3-4 months. EF things to do: Find a front passenger side fender liner Install velocity stack filter in a permanent location Install rear sway bar Install RTABs Get new tires mounted/alignment done Install adjustable cam gear/new cam seal (THANKS FOR THE LEAKS, FELPRO) Find EF Si seats or get seat covers
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Apr 23, 2016 17:31
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Worked on the EF this morning, almost have it finished. Pressing in the new RTABs with the specialty tool since the aftermarket ones were too tight in tolerance to hammer them in  Clocked correctly and in.  Rear trailing arms back on  For some reason my DX has the captive nuts for the rear sway bar brackets, most DXs don't so you have to drill through the trunk to mount the rear sway bar brackets. This is a picture of me cleaning the threads as they have ~25 years of gunk in them.  Rear sway bar brackets on  Encountered a problem. The new sway bar is much larger than stock, so it included new poly mount bushings but they did not come with the metal part that holds them to the sway bar mount. I contacted the company to see if they will send them out so I can get the drat sway bar on the car.  All this hassle, drat you sway bar.  Full poly bushings throughout the car, Falken Azenis in 195/60/14 mounted, alignment done, sway bar bracket and Function 7 lower control arms on. Hopefully I can get those bushing brackets so I can mount the drat sway bar. EF things to do: Install rear sway bar Install adjustable cam gear/new cam seal (THANKS FOR THE LEAKS, FELPRO) Find EF Si seats or get seat covers
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Apr 30, 2016 18:08
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Turbo car update: We started to throw the motor and trans back together but noticed a noise when we were doing the timing. The pan was pulled and the issue is the main bolts have stretched. I guess the stock Honda ones aren't good enough for ~10k RPM. I ordered a new set of bearings and ARP main studs along with a Endyn block girdle. Once all that poo poo comes in the car will finalllllyyyy be back (hopefully it doesn't blow up). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJd0zS2AwDY I recorded this using a Casio calculator watch rigged up to my gameboy camera so sorry for the quality (I recorded the video for a text message to send to my tuner to get his recommendation)
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May 4, 2016 12:24
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I admire your patience hosing those bolt holes out with solvent, I normally just spin a tap through them and then give them a quick spritz with brakleen. Either way, way better than just slamming the bolts in like a lot of people would do.
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May 4, 2016 18:41
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doogle posted:I recorded this using a Casio calculator watch rigged up to my gameboy camera This is the funniest poo poo I've read all day.
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May 5, 2016 19:02
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Just don't mention rigging anything up to a Casio F-91W or you'll be right on someone's Of Interest list.
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May 5, 2016 23:14
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I'm getting the crank polished today and everything should be ready to throw back in the car by the weekend. I also may have done something real dumb because I am bad with money (if it comes to fruition the EF will be gone for another Japanese car that has the beating heart of American aluminum).
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May 12, 2016 12:59
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Oooh I want to see this.
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May 12, 2016 13:55
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doogle posted:I'm getting the crank polished today and everything should be ready to throw back in the car by the weekend. I also may have done something real dumb because I am bad with money (if it comes to fruition the EF will be gone for another Japanese car that has the beating heart of American aluminum). I like to polish my crank twice a day.
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May 12, 2016 18:22
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doogle posted:I'm getting the crank polished today and everything should be ready to throw back in the car by the weekend. I also may have done something real dumb because I am bad with money (if it comes to fruition the EF will be gone for another Japanese car that has the beating heart of American aluminum). Beat Fuzzkill to the punch with an LS30? Supercharged V8 Miata? An S2000 with torque? The possibilities are endless 
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May 12, 2016 21:59
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Hilux with a bed full of beer cans.
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May 12, 2016 23:09
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I just bought a wrecked '01 Camaro SS 6MT with 130k miles on it for $1000. I know where I can get a '95 240sx shell for $500. CX racing sells swap kits for $1500 for the full bolt in solution including drive shaft and headers. I need to sell the EF ASAP so I can buy the swap kit and get this show on the road. Final question is this: ~400whp NA or go for broke and supercharge it? Edit: Keeping the AC so I may have to stay NA.
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May 13, 2016 01:49
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If it was mine, I'd probably start out N/A at first, get it running and driving, then add a supercharger or turbo later when you decide it's not enough power.
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May 13, 2016 01:53
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doogle posted:I just bought a wrecked '01 Camaro SS 6MT with 130k miles on it for $1000. I know where I can get a '95 240sx shell for $500. CX racing sells swap kits for $1500 for the full bolt in solution including drive shaft and headers. I need to sell the EF ASAP so I can buy the swap kit and get this show on the road. Final question is this: ~400whp NA or go for broke and supercharge it? Do you just want it for drag? Or do you want to do other poo poo with it?
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May 13, 2016 02:16
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iwentdoodie posted:Do you just want it for drag? Or do you want to do other poo poo with it? I have the civic for a drag car, this will be more of a daily/occasional track use.
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May 13, 2016 02:24
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iwentdoodie posted:Do you just want it for drag? Or do you want to do other poo poo with it? The 240SX isn't a great drag racing platform.
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May 13, 2016 02:58
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doogle posted:I'm getting the crank polished today and everything should be ready to throw back in the car by the weekend. I also may have done something real dumb because I am bad with money (if it comes to fruition the EF will be gone for another Japanese car that has the beating heart of American aluminum). I can't be the only one who thought "Toyota Cavalier"... right?
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May 13, 2016 09:15
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some texas redneck posted:I can't be the only one who thought "Toyota Cavalier"... right? Well there was a Toyota (Australian built) with a GM (Holden) all cast iron heart:  Close to being the worst Toyota ever, probably battling the Toyota Lexcen for that title
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May 13, 2016 09:48
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