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your trunk is open!
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Oct 16, 2014 00:08
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Powershift posted:your Frunk is open!
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Oct 16, 2014 00:16
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Is that a color-shift paint, or is there an orange to red fade in the back? I think it looks awesome, just needs some details to make it finished externally. What are your plans? Is the entire rear open motor? Any way to double-panel the divider to cut down on noise more?
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Oct 16, 2014 00:52
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EVERYWHERE 
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FuzzKill posted:
Roll with it by getting neon orange rims.
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Oct 16, 2014 00:59
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meatpimp posted:Is the entire rear open motor? Any way to double-panel the divider to cut down on noise more? drat, I was just about to make this suggestion. I nice double-pane window should cut down on noise and heat intrusion nicely.
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Oct 16, 2014 01:06
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Can you build another panel to fit on top of the engine? For color, you could always wrap it. Or rock it as is.
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Oct 16, 2014 01:19
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FuzzKill posted:Tires tomorrow! Don't forget the burnout video before the tires. Or else.
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Oct 16, 2014 01:23
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One possible solution albeit in a different mid engine conversion  http://www.enercalc.com/porsche/ Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Oct 16, 2014 |
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Oct 16, 2014 05:01
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:One possible solution albeit in a different mid engine conversion Who the hell has ever seen a bong that large?
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Oct 16, 2014 05:11
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Viggen posted:Who the hell has ever seen a bong that large? Thats actually a incredibly intricate e-cig setup. *not pictured giant man wearing fedora*
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Oct 16, 2014 06:01
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Valt posted:*not pictured giant man wearing fedora* how does a fedora wear a man? you crazy!
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Oct 16, 2014 07:13
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This car crazy. I vote the paint stays, with lime green wheels. I'm still impressed by the dual bolt pattern wheels, so simple and elegant. Speaking of which, could you transplant rear calipers and discs onto the drive axle? cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Oct 16, 2014 |
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Oct 16, 2014 07:45
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I actually like the paint.  If anybody laughs at the paint, just step on the loud pedal and get sideways.That exhaust is bugging me though - is it just me or is one tip sticking a bit further out?
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Oct 16, 2014 08:02
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Needs some wider rear wheels, flairs up front, and some nice meat all the way around. I love this thing!
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Oct 16, 2014 10:03
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Bought 4 tires, got 2 mounted. I got some Continental extreme contact 225/40/18 for the front and Dunlop sport something or other 255/40/18 for the rear. Should give some grip ... Turns out the front spline drive lugs are different than the rear. The rear uses Dorman/Gorilla/generic spline drive M12x1.5 (6 spline). The key from my Genesis works to remove them. The fronts are spline drive as well, but they are some obscure (to me) 7 spline. I checked at work (Advance), then went to Pep boys, Napa, and Zone. All were 6 spline. I ordered a master locking lug removal kit at work - we'll see if it has the right one in it. I managed to get one off with the socket + hammer trick. Turns out it is 1/2-20 thread. I'm somewhat confused by this, as I think the GTI came with wheel bolts originally and they would almost surely be M12-1.5 as well. Someone got a wheel stud conversion kit for it (a good idea), but how or why they make one that converts it to a standard thread instead of a metric one is puzzling to me. Also, the work and headache involved in getting the one lug off wasn't worth the payoff. I was using my cheap tools because I didn't want to damage any good sockets or extensions with the hammer. This ended up causing more headache, as the extension broke off in the socket that was just sledged onto the lugnut. I ended up having to weld another lugnut on top of the socket and then use that to remove the lugnut socket lugnut combo. Not something I want to do another 9 times (If I can even get the lugnut out from the socket now)
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Oct 17, 2014 01:47
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Got the other 2 tires on and got it registered! First (legal) road test will be today!
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Oct 26, 2014 15:54
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Make absolutely certain that you measure the threads on those stud conversions because having this happen sucks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Z51HgIouwE (M12 studs, 1/2-20 lugs. They go together just well enough to feel fine and torque down but any real driving loads and they part ways with the vehicle rather suddenly.) This is a properly mental project and I love it.
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Oct 28, 2014 17:07
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Paint thoughts: Just dip the car flat black and call it a day. Also, congratulations on the registration and being almost done!
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Oct 30, 2014 18:33
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After using plastidip a couple times and never using vinyl, I'd suggest vinyl before plastidip. 
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Oct 30, 2014 22:35
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This car is crying out for a Harlequin paint job.
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Oct 30, 2014 23:02
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Chrome wrap.
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Oct 31, 2014 02:15
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Godholio posted:Chrome wrap. For the inside maybe
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Oct 31, 2014 04:58
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Ultimate Mango posted:For the inside maybe Good point. Which leaves 1990s Pontiac Manta Green Metallic. Maybe some superfluous plastic body cladding.
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Oct 31, 2014 05:35
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Ultimate Mango posted:For the inside maybe Nah, put a black strip on the hood and maybe under the mirrors and you'll be good. It's the other poor assholes who will suffer.
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Oct 31, 2014 07:09
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Figured out (mostly) what was loose in the front end. The strut mounts were completely shot. I have new ones, but I've put off installing them until I got my new wheel stud conversion kit here. That arrived today, so with any luck I'll get the new struts and mounts installed over the weekend. I really don't mind wheel bolts that much, but they are going away now because: 1) I don't have the handy wheel installation helper tool 2) The bolts I bought are stock length but a pain in the rear end to get them to bite at first when trying to hold everything together 3) The brake rotor retaining screws broke on both fronts, so in addition to trying to line up the wheel you have to keep the rotor aligned and firmly pressed to the hub gently caress that. STUDS!
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Nov 7, 2014 02:59
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I still fail to understand how people have such a hard time with wheel bolts. Every car I've ever owned has had them with the exception of my miata. All you have to do is hoist the wheel up onto the centering ring and rotate it until the holes line up. Then, you use one hand to hold the wheel against the disc and thread the bolt with the other.
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Nov 11, 2014 03:30
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They're alright if you're using factory wheels, though still a mild pain in the rear end. But once you get into multi-fit wheels (or wheels off a different car with a larger hub bore) without adapter rings, or have broken rotor retainers like FuzzKill poo poo gets massively painful very quickly. Studs are just easier. And let's not get into all the Mercedes parking brakes I've seen destroyed by people who used the wrong length of lug when changing wheels.
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Nov 11, 2014 03:44
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charliemonster42 posted:I still fail to understand how people have such a hard time with wheel bolts. Every car I've ever owned has had them with the exception of my miata. All you have to do is hoist the wheel up onto the centering ring and rotate it until the holes line up. Then, you use one hand to hold the wheel against the disc and thread the bolt with the other. **MY GF'S** 03 jetta has wheel bolts and honestly every time I loving do the brakes on her car I want to drive myself off of a cliff in it. After the wheel bolts are off you need to spend like 10 min per wheel with a deadblow trying to get the wheel off. I have no idea how it's stuck on that hard.
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Nov 11, 2014 04:15
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That's got nothing to do with the bolts, it's just a tendency for the hubs/wheels to seize together. A handful of brands have it bad, but BMW is by far the worst. One time while pulling a set of E30 bottlecaps at a junkyard I had to get the loader op to drop the car with all the weight on the last wheel, and it still took 3 hits 
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Nov 11, 2014 04:23
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Good god, I'm glad I'm not the only one who doesn't have to whack the hell out of the wheels on my e30 to remove them. Rears only for some reason, though, and it seems to be worse if the parking brake is on.... drat, now I'm wondering if the bolts are the wrong length.
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Nov 11, 2014 04:26
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VelociBacon posted:**MY GF'S** 03 jetta has wheel bolts and honestly every time I loving do the brakes on her car I want to drive myself off of a cliff in it. After the wheel bolts are off you need to spend like 10 min per wheel with a deadblow trying to get the wheel off. I have no idea how it's stuck on that hard. Slap some antiseize on the face of the mating surface. I remember a few years ago buying the '97 that was in terrible shape and from out east. Both drivers' side wheels were stuck on hard with a firm layer of rust and needed a baby sledge to dislodge. It doesn't need a lot, usually just a ribbon between where the studs will go. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Nov 11, 2014 |
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Nov 11, 2014 04:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Slap some antiseize on the face of the mating surface. I remember a few years ago buying the '97 that was in terrible shape and from out east. Both drivers' side wheels were stuck on hard with a firm layer of rust and needed a baby sledge to dislodge. I'll do this - thanks.
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Nov 11, 2014 04:47
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I found working on cars that wheel-siezing rust built up the most between the hub ring and wheel; on the rare occasions I used anti-sieze, that's the only place I really put it. Rotate your wheels regularly, folks. And yeah one of my coworkers there had a GTI with no retaining screws, tyte coilovers cranked way down so the camber was out of whack, and a spacer that was only one the front drivers' side wheel, to bring the wheel out flush and match the passenger side, because of how hosed the suspension was. Between the wheel, the spacer, which was a loose fit and didn't want to stay on the hub, the loose rotor, and the hub itself, I had four pieces of metal to line up to get those bolts in. Yeah, I openly started cussing him out after about the second time.
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Nov 11, 2014 05:07
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Fucknag posted:And yeah one of my coworkers there had a GTI with no retaining screws, tyte coilovers cranked way down so the camber was out of whack, and a spacer that was only one the front drivers' side wheel, to bring the wheel out flush and match the passenger side, because of how hosed the suspension was. Between the wheel, the spacer, which was a loose fit and didn't want to stay on the hub, the loose rotor, and the hub itself, I had four pieces of metal to line up to get those bolts in. Yeah, I openly started cussing him out after about the second time. I think I would refuse to work on that, for liability reasons 
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Nov 11, 2014 07:07
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Anti-seize between the wheels and hub is pretty standard here in Canada.
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Nov 11, 2014 07:46
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Cakefool posted:I think I would refuse to work on that, for liability reasons Yeah, this was Sears. Take a guess how well refusing to do anything went over.
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Nov 11, 2014 07:57
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Do VW's not come with a tool like this [img]http://www.t4srus.co.uk/ekmps/shops/t4srus/images/vw-t4-t5-quick-align-wheel-tools-[2]-1431-p[ekm]400x463[ekm].jpg[/img] (random pic stolen from google) so that you can hang the wheel off of that & have it line up with the other holes? I swear I saw something like it on a friends E36 toolkit.
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Nov 12, 2014 23:56
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GrantC posted:Do VW's not come with a tool like this It comes in the toolkit, but it's made out of plastic on a lot of the cars and frequently goes walkabout.
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Nov 13, 2014 00:10
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It comes in the toolkit, but it's made out of plastic on a lot of the cars and frequently goes walkabout. And no-one reads the manual to figure out what it's for?
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Nov 13, 2014 00:24
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GrantC posted:And no-one reads the manual to figure out what it's for? IDK, I stole one from a VW I flipped because my VW didn't have one. I still don't use it, but I have it. Also, wheel bolts don't bother me at all. Both my cars have them... the VW is even missing its rotor set screws and it doesn't bug me much.
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Nov 13, 2014 00:38
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