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I bought a 1990 Jeep MJ riddled with previous owner fuckery. Come watch me fix poo poo! Specs: 1990 Jeep Comanche Eliminator P/O swapped in a 1994 4.0 HO AX-15 Manual Transmission NP231 Transfer Case 31" BFG MT tires Rust Craigslist posted:Hi CL, I found it on Craigslist and promptly emailed the seller to schedule a test drive. I paid $2,000 but it came with a LOT of spare parts, a lot of them are MJ specific and hard/expensive to come by.            One example of P/O fuckery. Yes, that is a redbull can, nitrile glove, and a hose clamp as a cap for the P/S reservoir:  Went to change the fluid in my differentials, found water, black fluid, and broken spider gears. $150 later, I had new spider gears for the D35 and was back on the road.  I went to the gas station for my first fill-up since buying it while on the test drive for the new gears, and discovered that if I fill the tank higher than about 3/4, any remaining fuel added leaks out onto the ground. Ordered a new tank, hoping to get time to put it in this weekend. If not, I'll do it mid-week. Coming soon: Make new brackets and install brush guard Fix windshield washer fluid system Replace gas tank Replace front D30 with one that matches the ratio of my rear so I can use the 4WD Install a million butt splices to fix where the P/O just twisted wires together and taped them Fix the heater blower system, only works on high right now Replace rear output seal on the transfer case Install brake adjuster kits for rear drums so my rear brakes actually work. Rust repair (Welding in new floor panels, rockers, and fixing the rear wheel wells) Possibly remove interior carpet and spray bedliner in. Fix the radio (P/O replaced the stock radio with a fancy head unit and the AM/FM bands do not get signal) Replace window seals on both doors and rear sliding window. Anything else that breaks along the way. iForge fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Oct 31, 2014 |
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Oct 30, 2014 01:23
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, port-matched exhaust runners and aftermarket header along with new magnaflow cat and ultrraflow welded muffler(new O2 sensor), msd blaster coil, new champion copper plugs and custom THICK wires, dual diaphragm brake booster, rugged ridge wheel spacers, BFG mud terrains with decent tread left, 2.5-3 inch lift, skyjacker nitro's in the rear(front could use new shocks), sony head unit with usb and ipod support, polk marine component front speakers, toneau cover, plastic bedliner and rubber bed-mat. I'm tired of listing things but the list goes on.. bunch of spare parts such as a factory Dana 44 with trac-loc diff(needs to be re-assembled), brushguard etc. that can come with it depending...(Im also willing to sell these items separate) this is my daily driver currently, the mileage is on the higher end but I have no doubts about taking trips in it, the 4.0 and AX-15 are as reliable as a woodstove.(four wheel drive does not work currently due to the typical vacuum issue(I was just going to replace the axle with a newer non vacuum disconnect unit) I recently quit my job, need money, and am just looking to get into something else, my loss your gain 
these are incredible uni-body pickups and are only getting harder to find:: price is OBO, open to certain trades(NO AUTOMATICS, NO PROJECTS - MUST RUN) interested in ef civic hatchbacks, 3rd gen preludes, eg civics, diesel stuff, enduros, dualsports, standards, and of course possibly other vehicles... if your interested--lemme know what ya got, worst case is I'm not interested 
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Those things are cool as poo poo but man, that's a lot of rust repair. I like cars and trucks from that era though and I almost never see a jeep pickup on the road so I won't tell you you're crazy. Also white is good at hiding small imperfections in body work. Are you going to keep the sweet 90's graphics if/when you paint it? (please do)
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Oct 30, 2014 01:41
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151436919872?lpid=82 Between chinesium metal panels and a lovely welder and a grinder + 3m cavity wax, there is no mistake that can't be fixed. I love these trucks and regret not picking up the 4.0 I really wanted that would have left me reliably disappointed. If sandbagger wasn't coming to steal all my XJ poo poo I'd say come git'er
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Oct 30, 2014 01:55
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Jealous. I want a manual 4.0 4x4 Comanche so stinkin bad man.
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Oct 30, 2014 03:45
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Adiabatic posted:Jealous. I want a manual 4.0 4x4 Comanche so stinkin bad man. One of my saddest car moments is missing a rust free 90, 4.0, 5spd 4x4. It was perfect. Missed it by like an hour.
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Oct 30, 2014 04:14
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I remember you posting this, remarking that the PS pump cap needed fixing double quick. They dropped a 94 HO in there, but that intake manifold isn't 94. I think those came out around 97 or 98, maybe as early as 96. I've heard that swapping the old boxy intake manifold for the new round one can give a bump in horses. Someone did the work for you, that's awesome. I had to do floor pans in my XJ, mine are still pop-rivited in. Hey, if it's good enough to hold a plane together, it's good enough for me. C2C Fabrication makes replacement body panels, including floor pans and rocker panels. These folks did good by me, give 'em a look over. http://www.c2cfabrication.com/wp-content/plugins/c2c-car-filter/include/product_filter.php?make=23&model=221&syear=1990 Rustoleum or rhinoline (or both?) the floor to keep it safe. Find the leak and take care of that, too--mine was the window (if safelite comes around, make sure they are using the right rubber gasket piece). Goddamn I'm jealous.
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Oct 30, 2014 23:28
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Unknown-quality hose clamped onto a fuel rail that sits above the header.  '91-'95 4.0 XJ feed & return lines will mate up with the rail, but the corresponding MJ lines terminate in a different location. Good luck finding '91-'92 MJ lines... I ended up running -6AN alcohol-safe hose and using AN adapters on my '94 rail. Feed is 3/8", return is 5/16".Based on the HO throttle body and such, did the PO swap in the full HO harness and instrument cluster? If the coolant temp sensor is already driving the auxiliary fan, that's certainly handy. I think that intake manifold was a '99 improvement. It's a couple horsepower and lb/ft at most, but it does significantly improve access in the engine bay... and the tensioner is a massive improvement over the '94, too. edit: fifth active MJ thread in AI? 
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Oct 31, 2014 00:08
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Fellow member of the Comanche Owner Gentleman's Club reporting: Here is the MJ that's getting Slow is Fast's XJ parts on the super cheap.   Ahh! It's like someone cleaned a DShK bare handed and then wiped their hands on every grey pleather/plastic surface in the truck. Specs: 1988 Jeep Comanche Eliminator P/O swapped in a non grenaded Renix 4.0 BA-10 Manual Transmission No Transfer Case (4x2) Aftermarket stereo wiring that looks like it was designed by Al Qaeda in Iraq. Almost no rust (strangely) Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Oct 31, 2014 |
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Oct 31, 2014 00:58
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Comanche Cuddlepile! Here's my 88 going from 2.5 4x2 to a Renix 4.0 with an Ax15 and 4x4.
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Oct 31, 2014 01:17
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OneOverZero posted:Unknown-quality hose clamped onto a fuel rail that sits above the header. The PO swapped in the harness, or at least part of it, but I guess he ran out of butt splices because there is wiring that is done right, and there are sections that have wires twisted together and are wrapped in electrical tape. I'm surprised anything works with the quality of wiring in some places. I keep a fire extinguisher in all my vehicles anyway, so it shouldn't burn to the ground before I get a chance to fix the wiring in the next week or 2. The PO did mention about swapping the intake to the 99 while we were on the test drive but I forgot about it up until you and Horse Divorce mentioned it. I need to check that air filter and clean it if need be. I think I am going to have to wait a couple months to do the sheet metal work, but I am going to figure out a way to cover the holes temporarily to keep the looming cloud of road salt from getting in here and doing more damage once the snow hits. This will probably be aluminum duct tape and undercoating for the floor pans, and tape and paint for the rockers. I wanted to have the sheet metal done already, as I was laid off when I bought this, but I am back working and we have a lot of overtime right now so I want to take advantage of it and make dat $$$(so I can spend it all on MJ stuff). Looks like this weekend is shot for wrenching due to work, but I think I am going to do the gas tank Wednesday after work so there will be pictures of that. The PO told me he "patched" a hole in it, but it still leaks when you put more than about 3/4 tank in it, so I can't wait to drop it and see WTF is up. Also, I am going to edit the OP to add the CL ad text once I post this.
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Oct 31, 2014 02:54
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At the very least blow the holes full of cavity wax (as much as it'll hold) before you try to seal it up. Eastwood internal frame coating is probably a good idea too for peace of mind, though probably not the best idea before any future welding.
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Oct 31, 2014 05:11
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Slow is Fast posted:http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151436919872?lpid=82 For an older jeep a buddy of mine swears you can build an entirely new unibody from eBay sheet metal parts. I don't doubt this.
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Nov 1, 2014 08:10
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Few things - Thanks for the info on those b pillar lights, I hadn't found that yet. Will have to order some. MJ floors are special. If you see floorpans for sale that claim to fit MJs and XJs, laugh and move on. Yes that is a 99 up intake manifold, oneoverzero is right. Sucks about the d35. When you were asking about MJ stuff and I said it would probably see you through till you got the d44 ready was the only time I've ever said anything nice about one and look what happened. D35s are scrap. Also, you would be shocked what you can clean out of a seat with good cleaner. Just look at the one blaise cleaned up for his brother, I would have sworn that seat was completely junk. I took a set of really grody seats from an early 90s XJ that were basically black with grease residue and after a couple good sprayings with the hose and a few hard scrubs with upholstery cleaner and then more spraying, they look almost factory fresh. Never would have believed that was possible. As noted, if you upgrade to the 99 intake (actually any 96 up intake, but only 99 up are the nice runner design) you need to swap to a 96 up power steering pump, tank, and lines, as well as the belt tensioner, and you end up removing the idler pulley on the ac compressor bracket and cutting the weird bolt/something boss off of the timing cover near the timing marks at around 2 o'clock position. Not sure if this was done to yours. It looks like it still has the idler, but has the new tensioner, and no idea what year PS pump and reservoir... so I recommend measuring your serp belt and getting a spare or at least writing down what belt you need before it breaks because that routing matches precisely none of the factory ones and it will be very annoying if it ever breaks. The lines and pump/reservoir have little to do with the belt length, it is just that the old style pump physically will not bolt to the new style manifold and the tank design changed which results in a fucky line setup unless you just buy the tank/pump/lines all for the same year XJ (pick any year after 96 and stick with it basically) which may explain your troubles in getting a ps pump cap that fits.
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Nov 1, 2014 19:19
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 New tank goes in tomorrow, hopefully I don't break anything in the process. Driveshaft is coming out but that ain't no thang, and the J bolts for the tank straps are rusted beyond saving, so I'll make new ones out of some stainless tomorrow as well. Gonna be awesome to be able to fill my tank and not have to play guessing games to not spill fuel all over the place every time I get gas. I'm not going to buy floor pans, gently caress that. I'm gonna hammer them out myself because I have plenty of sheet available for it, also because blacksmith.
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Nov 1, 2014 23:13
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For your AM/FM problem there is a connector behind the passenger side kick panel that runs to the bottom of the antenna. I would check to see if your coax got pulled loose there if it is plugged into the back of the radio.
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Nov 2, 2014 05:36
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Awesome. Here is the current state of my 87 2.5 renix TBI era, ax4, 2wd. In other words pretty useless as a truck so I took the tags off.  I have a wrecked 2001 xj 4wd that maybe on day will serve as donor of many parts, if I can ever get started.
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Nov 2, 2014 13:45
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th vwls hv scpd: Thanks for the info, I'll check that out. It was windy as hell today so I drove to my parent's house to use their garage for the gas tank swap. Everything went well really well except for when I filled the tank all the way and found that I am leaking a tiny bit of fuel around the rubber grommet for the fuel pump wires. I'll get that patched up once the fuel level gets low enough that it stops dripping. PO used window screen and JB weld to patch the tank, so a big gently caress YOU to him for that poo poo. Picture dump below. Install jumper for the fuel pump relay to get it to run continuously to empty the tank.  Stick fuel line into empty gas can.  Pull tank, cuss the PO for hackjob "fixing" the tank with JB Weld and window screen.  Picture after I picked off the JB weld that was barely attached.  Fuel is leaking around that rubber boot where the 2 wires go in. Should be easy enough to fix. 
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Nov 3, 2014 00:10
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Good work. Holy poo poo that PO hack job. While it sucks that you did all that work and still have a leak, the positive side of all this is, you've had it out once and everything is accessible/freshened up, so dropping the tank again to tie up loose ends is going to be cake vs the unknowns of doing the job the first time. Been there done that.
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Nov 3, 2014 01:09
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iForge posted:Install jumper for the fuel pump relay to get it to run continuously to empty the tank. Why the hell didn't I think of this when helping with my brother's fuel pump? So simple, yet so easy to overlook. Gonna remember that, thank you.
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Nov 3, 2014 02:09
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Horse Divorce posted:Why the hell didn't I think of this when helping with my brother's fuel pump? So simple, yet so easy to overlook. Gonna remember that, thank you. If you do, use something a bit thicker than I did. That is just a thin piece of MIG wire and it got kinda hot after being in place for 10ish minutes. Also huggable bear king I plan to paint it right and buy new decals to put back on.
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Nov 3, 2014 04:03
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Today I planned to fix the smallish* rust hole in my drivers floorboard and the couple small holes in the passenger floorboard. Went to Fazzio's and bought a sheet of 18ga steel sheet. Stopped by my parents house to use their garage to get out of the weather again. The holes visible from below were about 6 inches by 4 inches on the drivers side, and quarter sized on the passenger side. Pulled the seats, pulled the console, pulled the soaking wet carpet. I was met with rust and missing metal that rivals Sockington rust. The metal on the driver's side) was completely gone, and it was just a shell of undercoating. I ripped away the shell of rubbery undercoating and this is what remained. My carpet was structural carpet. Drivers side:    Passenger side:   Tomorrow morning I will start an all day patch panel marathon. The whole floor is getting hit with the wire wheel on my 6 inch grinder. Whatever metal remains is thick enough to stay. Wherever I break through gets cut out and patched.
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Nov 9, 2014 07:46
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Holy poo poo.  I had a Cherokee with that sort of rust in the driver's floor and subframe rail- even after cleaning it up, I realized that by the time I would dump money into repairing the thing, I'd be blowing $2k on a $500 Jeep that would be worth $2k afterward. I promptly took it down to recycle it (and in the process forgot about the new battery and distributor I installed in there, which I should've sold on Craigslist) and forgot about an off-road truck for a while.
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Nov 9, 2014 12:39
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WEEKEND COMANCHE UPDATE    The early RENIX cooling system was dumb so I took it out and replaced it with a regular cooling system courtesy of SLOW IS FAST.  I removed and replaced the radiator, serp belt, heater lines, reservior and water pump for good measure. what's next? The PO removed and probably blocked off the port for the coolant sensor which is causing the engine to overheat itself so I'm going to locate a new thermostat housing and sensor to see if that fixes the issue. I also found out the previous owner replaced the throttle linkcage with the sketchiest shitbird hillrod modification ever.  So that's going to have to get fixed too.
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Nov 9, 2014 16:10
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Holy gently caress, whoever "fixed" that throttle linkage should be whipped with it.
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Nov 9, 2014 16:36
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People in the art community go on and on about the ingenuity of outsider art from the rural US, but I don't see it.
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Nov 9, 2014 20:44
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I bolted in a new thermostat housing for a 90s XJ mated to a block temp sensor for an 80s XJ/MJ and now the engine idles at the correct speed.
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Nov 10, 2014 01:34
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So... $750 is less than I spent on toys and video games this last month.
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Nov 10, 2014 04:17
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Check for floor and frame rot, but that is the rarest year MJ and has a 6cyl. You can convert that to 4x4 manual with one custom driveshaft and a $400 rotten rear end 4x4 5 speed 6cyl XJ donor in one determined weekend of angry wrenching. We must not stop until all of AI has been converted to the comanche cause 
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Nov 10, 2014 04:22
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I'm assuming the frame is rotting because of the price and Indiana.
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Nov 10, 2014 04:26
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Also I didn't text last night because it was late but you may notice the number in that image is missing a digit. So just waiting on an email reply right now.
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Nov 10, 2014 18:23
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Rhyno posted:Also I didn't text last night because it was late but you may notice the number in that image is missing a digit. So just waiting on an email reply right now. Thats only 10 to try. Pussy. Want a badge for it?
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Nov 10, 2014 18:28
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Viggen posted:Thats only 10 to try. Pussy. Only ten? 260-710-040. The missing digit could be X040 or 0X40 or 04X0 or 040X. More possibilities than I'm willing to waste time texting.
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Nov 10, 2014 18:34
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Rhyno posted:Only ten? 260-710-040. The missing digit could be X040 or 0X40 or 04X0 or 040X. More possibilities than I'm willing to waste time texting. Ya know, I just went into total fail mode and assumed it was the last digit. v  vThat is still only 40. You have lunch hour, right?
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Nov 10, 2014 18:39
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Viggen posted:Ya know, I just went into total fail mode and assumed it was the last digit. v Sending 40 texts is more effort than I want to put into a $750 truck. Two emails was enough.
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Nov 10, 2014 18:44
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Rhyno posted:Sending 40 texts is more effort than I want to put into a $750 truck. Two emails was enough. I guess you just don't want it enough. 
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Nov 10, 2014 18:49
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Rhyno posted:Sending 40 texts is more effort than I want to put into a $750 truck. Two emails was enough. Come on man, it's a $750 truck. There ain't nothin' sweeter in life.
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Nov 10, 2014 18:51
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Come on man, it's a $750 truck. There ain't nothin' sweeter in life. There's a $500 B2200 an hour away from me. Probably just as rotted as this Comanche.
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Nov 10, 2014 18:57
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Rhyno posted:There's a $500 B2200 an hour away from me. Probably just as rotted as this Comanche. Is it manual? If so, gently caress this Jeep. Get the Mazda! E: GET THEM BOTH. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Nov 10, 2014 |
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Nov 10, 2014 18:59
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Viggen posted:Is it manual? If so, gently caress this Jeep. Get the Mazda! Nah, auto. The manual one is $2K.
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Nov 10, 2014 19:02
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 12:39 |
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Rhyno posted:Nah, auto. The manual one is $2K. Offer $750 for the manual. E: Feeding Rhyno bad (for the wallet) ideas? Is it 2012 again? 
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Nov 10, 2014 19:06
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