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Holy poo poo, never would have figured a dealer would still have that cable in stock. 
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Nov 27, 2014 16:51
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 16:34 |
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People who are stupid enough to race on Lower whacker are more then likely going to want to "FIght you BRA" or "RACE FU PINKURU SRIP" don't go. It will end either in police being arriving or other worse options. The stockyards by Chinatown are a much better place to street race. JUST DONT RACE THE JUNK LOOKING G BODYS. there was a guy who used to tow one there that looked like it would fall apart. But once he got up to the line and opened up that small block.....UNNNGGGGHHHH that sound was a sign it was not a POS. But you really should get a shooting stars logo for your windshield. for all the downhill mountain races we do in Chicago...plus that car is GUREATURU for HERRATIGHT DRIFTURU
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Nov 27, 2014 16:53
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kastein posted:Holy poo poo, never would have figured a dealer would still have that cable in stock. Nissan is super good about having old stuff in stock. Provided you are supplied with a parts guy who can actually navigate their horrible catalogue, you can pull poo poo from other countries all the way back to the 60s depending what the part is.
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Nov 27, 2014 16:53
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I'm actually vaguely worried about going there, because apparently there are people that have modified their cars to be exceedingly silly on an AI level, and then exceedingly silly in a "i want to make my shitbox look as ugly as sin with stickers and body kits" way. http://local.sears.com/Lisle-Hood-Prop/p-00947316000P?st=1620&sid=IDx20141117x00001xlpla#!/ Buy this and never need to worry about needing a hood prop again. its cheaper then what the dealer will sell you. Unless you feel like junkyarding but even then nissans don't last long in the junkyards around here.
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Nov 27, 2014 16:58
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SouthsideSaint posted:People who are stupid enough to race on Lower whacker are more then likely going to want to "FIght you BRA" or "RACE FU PINKURU SRIP" don't go. It will end either in police being arriving or other worse options. The stockyards by Chinatown are a much better place to street race. JUST DONT RACE THE JUNK LOOKING G BODYS. there was a guy who used to tow one there that looked like it would fall apart. But once he got up to the line and opened up that small block.....UNNNGGGGHHHH that sound was a sign it was not a POS. But you really should get a shooting stars logo for your windshield. for all the downhill mountain races we do in Chicago...plus that car is GUREATURU for HERRATIGHT DRIFTURU downhill mountain racing ahahahahahaha Nah, like I said before, the most I'd do is a vanity plate and louvers on the back window, because something about louvers just appeals to me.
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Nov 27, 2014 17:08
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Track day or Autocross man.
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Nov 27, 2014 18:01
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Sperglord Firecock posted:downhill mountain racing ahahahahahaha Louvers on a 1980s hatch/liftback should be mandatory
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Nov 27, 2014 22:31
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SouthsideSaint posted:It will end either in police being arriving or other worse options. The stockyards by Chinatown are a much better place to street race. The best place to 'street race' is at the nearest track, strip, or autocross event unless you're really, really dying to lose your license and get your car impounded. Street racing is dumb.
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Nov 28, 2014 01:54
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HotCanadianChick posted:The best place to 'street race' is at the nearest track, strip, or autocross event unless you're really, really dying to lose your license and get your car impounded. Never said it wasn't. Just recommended a place I went too that wasn't a super busy place like Lower whacker drive. the stockyards in Chinatown result in some kid smashed in a riced out civic. Where as some idiots racing down lower whacker results in all types of death and horrible shenanigans. Once again either way street racing is dumb and a bad thing. Last time I went to the street races was ten years ago.
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Nov 28, 2014 02:22
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Street racing is a great thing... to watch other retards do with their cars. Or to do in my old military truck. I got challenged by a garbage truck one day at a stop light. There we were, engines screaming, shifting at redline, slamming gears. Nearly hit the speed limit within a half mile. And I lost 
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Nov 28, 2014 02:37
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Sounds like your alternator is probably fine, but keep in mind if you do need to change it the best way to get at it is from underneath the car and a fair amount of contortion of both your body and moving the alternator into place. The also means you'll want ramps that have a low enough slop angle to drive up on. It's a good idea to have a set of appropriate ramps anyhow. Also, keep an eye on your PS fluid. Those Nissan racks are infamous for leaking.
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Nov 28, 2014 02:47
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Sperglord Firecock posted:
edit: I always like a reason to post this picture too. It was on a local craigslist for $3500, I wish I had the money to buy it at the time. 
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Nov 28, 2014 05:23
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Cool! The part came in today! I'm going over to pick it up soon. The weekend will be dedicated to figuring out how to put it on.
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Nov 28, 2014 16:41
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Bad News: They got me the positive terminal/cable, not the negative. Buuuuuuuut I'm thinking that I could just fanagle it to work, since I'm pretty sure that a cable is a cable, just might need a little bit of fiddling to let it fit on the negative connection. Yes or no?
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Nov 28, 2014 17:11
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you should just take it back and tell them to order the correct part. Unless you want to have a OEM positive cable. And you might be able to jerry rig something. But the end that attaches to the battery would have to be changed. And with that weird ground being right by the end of the negative cable you would need something to do that with as well.
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Nov 28, 2014 18:29
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mafoose posted:If coming up to a stop, keep it in whatever gear you're in until about 1.5k RPM, then clutch in and shift to neutral. The only time I might down shift one or two gears is if you're going fast enough to be in 5th. Why is this? I'm coming from bikes so I'm used to just rev-matching every shift, but heel-toe is hard so I've just been going from 5th (or whatever gear I'm in) to neutral for stops.
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Nov 28, 2014 18:45
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IT WORKS. SouthsideSaint rolled on down and it turns out that the terminals weren't put on tight enough to make it work. He'll probably be on at some point to gush about how good the car looks. Apparently the pictures do it no justice whatsoever. Edit: Namefix. fishception fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Nov 28, 2014 |
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Nov 28, 2014 20:57
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Good work, fellow member of Safety Squad. e: Given information which has recently been issued to this thread, I wish to retract my endorsement of the SA forums poster "Safety Dance." On behalf of the Safety Squad, I wish to apologize. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Nov 28, 2014 |
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Nov 28, 2014 21:05
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AncientTV posted:Why is this? The car will decelerate faster in a lower gear as I am sure you know. If the car is going 65 mph and gets off at an exit for example a switch to 3rd halfway between the exit and an intersection will allow the engine to do more of the braking work. e: If you're lazy like me and your pedals are in strange positions letting off the brake quickly to apply a throttle blip instead of doing a heel toe shift is common. puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Nov 28, 2014 |
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Nov 28, 2014 21:13
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Sperglord Firecock posted:IT WORKS. No I didn't. I've been at work all day. WHO DARES SAFETY IN MY NAME?!!?!?
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Nov 28, 2014 21:33
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Safety Dance posted:No I didn't. I've been at work all day. Scratch that then, it was SouthsideSaint. You both apparently have the same name IRL. Took it out for a quick spin to get some food, and as I was trying to make a left turn, fucker in an Audi TT or some two-door rear end in a top hat coupe slows down to stare at my car or something, causing me to not be able to make the left turn before more cars came. loving amateurs need to learn how to drive. fishception fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Nov 28, 2014 |
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Nov 28, 2014 21:50
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Yeah it was me. That car sure looks a lot better in real life. That was a nice red and it was fun to drive thanks for letting me do so.
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Nov 28, 2014 22:39
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New fun issue! Car is overheating, and I don't know why. It's in the driveway, so that's fine, but I'm more interested in what kind of coolant I should put in there. I assume regular water is not a good idea, at least not treated with anti-freeze. Water (coolant) temp was at 220 degrees in winter. That's not a positive thing. GOOD news is that nothing happened to the car other than that, although the fans installed in the car to cool off the turbo is running and I'm not entirely sure what turns it off, or hopefully it's a temperature controlled fan and I don't have to worry.
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Nov 28, 2014 23:16
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Feed it green. Just give it a flush and refill. The hardest part will/would probably be to flush the heater core, so go ahead and drain/fill a gallon of premix at a time between drives if you don't really want to get too deep into it. It won't be a great flush, but it'll be better than just running the old poo poo as it is, topped off. Greatly anticipating followups. What color is the
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Nov 28, 2014 23:37
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Viggen posted:Feed it green. Just give it a flush and refill. The hardest part will/would probably be to flush the heater core, so go ahead and drain/fill a gallon of premix at a time between drives if you don't really want to get too deep into it. It won't be a great flush, but it'll be better than just running the old poo poo as it is, topped off. So what you're saying is get a long pan to drain out all of what's left in the coolant cycle, and then refill it? I halfway suspect that the entire coolant cycle turned into steam, since shitloads of it was pouring out of the clear plastic container with a hose sticking out of the top of it. So it may very well already be well drained out! I got Prestone 50/50. Why is it important to feed it green as opposed to other anti-freeze?
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Nov 28, 2014 23:47
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I got Prestone 50/50. Why is it important to feed it green as opposed to other anti-freeze? That depends whats in it, but green is the "universal" additive. I doubt it is running anything else, but pop the cap and check before blindly buying fluids.
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Nov 28, 2014 23:52
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Fair enough. I haven't checked to see if it's green, but worst case scenario, anti-freeze is cheap. Not like I have anywhere super important to go in the near future anyways. As for flushing/draining/refilling. I'll probably figure out where the coolant goes on my own, but where is the thing underneath the car to unscrew to drain the coolant out?
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Nov 29, 2014 00:18
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Fair enough. I haven't checked to see if it's green, but worst case scenario, anti-freeze is cheap. Not like I have anywhere super important to go in the near future anyways. Usually its a spout on the radiator. Sometimes you need to remove the lower radiator hose and drain it that way. The only problem with this - you don't properly drain the heater core. If you were more experienced, I'd suggest a full water flush of the system by draining all fluids and running a few cycles after refilling with distilled water. As it is, you'll probably be fine as-is. If you don't have 'green' in it, post back here. AI will be able to tell you what it is- universal coolants shouldn't make too big of a problem, but it is always best to be safe. I'd also suggest a replacement of the thermostat while you're at it. Did you try to kick the heater on when it got hot to see if it dropped at all?
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Nov 29, 2014 00:26
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Not sure on the specifics of this car, but on most of them there's a plastic wing nut looking plug on the bottom of the radiator. If there isn't, just pull the lower radiator hose. Edit: gently caress you Viggen!!!!!
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Nov 29, 2014 00:32
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Adiabatic posted:Not sure on the specifics of this car, but on most of them there's a plastic wing nut looking plug on the bottom of the radiator. If there isn't, just pull the lower radiator hose. The term is "petcock", you imbecile. Petcock.
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Nov 29, 2014 00:50
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Viggen posted:Usually its a spout on the radiator. Sometimes you need to remove the lower radiator hose and drain it that way. The only problem with this - you don't properly drain the heater core. If you were more experienced, I'd suggest a full water flush of the system by draining all fluids and running a few cycles after refilling with distilled water. As it is, you'll probably be fine as-is. If you don't have 'green' in it, post back here. AI will be able to tell you what it is- universal coolants shouldn't make too big of a problem, but it is always best to be safe. It's winter. The heater was on full blast. The only issue is, I'm not entirely sure where even the radiator is on this thing. There's no heat transferer-looking thingy, only the two big fans in front and that's about all I see. I'll take a picture of the engine, or maybe someone can use the picture I already have on the first page and circle what I need to dump fluid into/drain fluid out of. As long as I generally know what piece I'm looking at, I should be able to figure it out.
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Nov 29, 2014 01:03
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Extra posted:The car will decelerate faster in a lower gear as I am sure you know. If the car is going 65 mph and gets off at an exit for example a switch to 3rd halfway between the exit and an intersection will allow the engine to do more of the braking work. Ok, I just wanted to make sure there was no transmission voodoo reason why coasting from 5th was bad in a mechanical-bits sense.
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Nov 29, 2014 01:45
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Sperglord Firecock posted:The only issue is, I'm not entirely sure where even the radiator is on this thing. There's no heat transferer-looking thingy, only the two big fans in front and that's about all I see. I'll take a picture of the engine, or maybe someone can use the picture I already have on the first page and circle what I need to dump fluid into/drain fluid out of. Take a picture. But from the first page follow those two big rubber hoses going into/out of the engine and see where they lead. E: Here's your reservoir (thiner circle) and your radiator cap (thicker) as far as I can tell. Double check though and make sure that clearish container isn't your windshield washer fluid.  Here's some snippet from a service manual showing where the drain petcock is:  Follow those hoses to see where the actual radiator is. It might be hidden under a fan guard. Plinkey fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Nov 29, 2014 |
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Nov 29, 2014 01:48
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The main problems I'm having are shifting into first gear on an uphill when a loving asshat decides that he needs to have his front bumper less than an inch from my rear end. That triggers my, "gently caress i need to shift into first fast" and might make me rev a biiiit too much. Been coasting with the engine in neutral (shifted, not clutch in), figure that coasting with the car in neutral doesn't do anything bad to the car. Is this correct?
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Nov 29, 2014 02:12
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Plinkey posted:Take a picture. But from the first page follow those two big rubber hoses going into/out of the engine and see where they lead. Definitely the reservoir, not the washer fluid. It was emitting steam. Edit: Hee, Petcock.
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Nov 29, 2014 02:13
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your right about coasting in neutral. Its a good thing. and look for your Pet cock, gentley carress the petcock in a counterclockwise motion. Repeat effect until hot thin green liquid soaks hands, driveway,face, what have you. If you want to do a semi legit flush poor some water through once the petcock is open.
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Nov 29, 2014 02:28
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Sperglord Firecock posted:The main problems I'm having are shifting into first gear on an uphill when a loving asshat decides that he needs to have his front bumper less than an inch from my rear end. That triggers my, "gently caress i need to shift into first fast" and might make me rev a biiiit too much. I think that it's safer to use engine braking rather than coasting neutral. If your in neutral, you will be unable to accelerate in an emergency. It also messes of the driving dynamics of your car, weight balance shifting, that sort of think. Very important for snow driving. Nothing harmful to the car, but better practice to stay in gear when slowing down.
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Nov 29, 2014 02:38
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Dyscrasia posted:I think that it's safer to use engine braking rather than coasting neutral. If your in neutral, you will be unable to accelerate in an emergency. It also messes of the driving dynamics of your car, weight balance shifting, that sort of think. Very important for snow driving. everything you said is correct. but he has stated a few times he is not going to drive in the snow. also when first getting started learning manual its better the just put it in neutral and not stall out trying to decelerate to a light.
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Nov 29, 2014 02:46
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SouthsideSaint posted:everything you said is correct. but he has stated a few times he is not going to drive in the snow. also when first getting started learning manual its better the just put it in neutral and not stall out trying to decelerate to a light. All of this. All of this forever. Stalling out is not fun at all. It's recoverable, but I really really don't like stalling out, especially on uphills.
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Nov 29, 2014 02:51
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 16:34 |
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soooooo after driving your car and falling in love with all the eightys technology and styling I may be doing something a little insane. My accord is getting put up on the chopping block for the first rear wheel jdm I find.
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Nov 29, 2014 03:06
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