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I strongly recommend the largest fire extinguisher you feel like paying for and carrying. It is surprising how big a fire gets in a car and how fast it does so. A friend's jeep had a fire in the rear area due to a fuel leak and a wiring issue. They shut it off quickly (killing the fuel pump) but someone still went to the hospital with second degree burns to their feet (they were in a front seat) and it took FORTY of the 2.5/5 pound fire extinguishers to put it out, mostly because theirs was the minimum size that would comply with club rules and it took a minute or two for others to show up with more when it was empty too fast.
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Jan 21, 2015 00:47
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 13:18 |
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Test this on an inconspicuous area of the car first to make sure you won't take the factory paint off, but you can probably take the lovely rattle can paint and overspray off with some acetone and a roll of shop towels. It's worked many times for me in the past.
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Feb 3, 2015 03:06
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If you want the car dead dead dead, put the switch in the primary wire to the ignition coil (carb or efi) or the crank position sensor signal wire (efi.) Starts but dies a few seconds later so they think it is out of fuel or a piece of poo poo, put it in the ballast resistor wiring for the fuel pump, typically it will start since the resistor is bypassed during startup and then will die when the bypass relay turns off. This doesn't apply to you, but on waste spark vehicles, putting the switch in the signal for one or two coilpacks is great because it will start or try to and act like a piece of poo poo. If you set up a timer, you could easily make it act like a piece of poo poo and run for like five seconds with a couple cylinders missing then shut off. Another option is to just take the shift lever with you  a guy I know did that on his old ford truck, you could start it with a screwdriver and the doors didn't lock but you better have a shift lever with you else it was staying in neutral. He would just reach down and unclip it from the top of the transmission, then walk off.E: that is a removable wheel right? Take steering wheel off, lock in trunk or bring inside, done. kastein fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Feb 8, 2015 |
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Feb 8, 2015 08:13
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HotCanadianChick posted:Actually, even better would be putting an SPST switch on the 12v + input wire for the ECU relay. I had an intermittently failing ECU relay on mine for months and it took forever to diagnose the issue, as it would crank and crank but never catch despite having an obviously working fuel pump and spark. That depends. All the things I listed are fairly low current compared to the entire B+ supply to the engine system, so you can use thin wire and a small easy to hide switch without worryying about it getting melty. If anything you would want to put a switch in the signal to the coil on the relay you listed, not the input wire or output wire. That way it is limited to about 150mA that needs to be switched.
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Feb 8, 2015 16:22
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Toyota really doesn't like to change things, do they? That trans mount looks exactly like the one for a '91 Toyota Pickup. Repaint/reassembly is amazing, I thought it looked great before. Can't believe how much of a difference it made.
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Mar 1, 2016 20:27
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Larrymer posted:People poo poo on GM about the parts bin stuff, but give kudos to Toyota for it. lol Cracks me up every time. I love partsbinning, it's just good engineering all around and means we as gearheads have a larger pool of things to lego together. My usual example: I can bolt an '09 Chevy Impala SS LS4 V8 engine directly to the transmission of a 4 or 6cyl auto or manual 1991 Toyota pickup using late 80s or mid to late 90s Jeep or Dodge parts. That wouldn't be possible if OEMs weren't partsbinning bastards.
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Mar 3, 2016 18:35
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Partsbin chat? Three words: Actually drat near every SFA/SRA jeep until the mid 2000s, some even later. poo poo, it's so heavily that rebuilders can't even get the model/engine/year app data right on what their stuff will fit, every steering box listed for a 93 Roadmaster claims it fits a different set of vehicles, some including 2003 (and only 2003) TJs. None of them can get it right whether it's 98 or 99 Durangos with the plow option that are special boxes, either. It's ridiculous. You basically have to measure the parts of the old box and the new box and compare turn ratios side by side before knowing whether your replacement box is actually what it was sold as, because they all look the same on the surface and they're legoed from here to infinity.
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Mar 4, 2016 16:04
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 13:18 |
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FopeDush posted:It's a real bitch, I feel your pain. If you guys still have a source for solid copper/brass heater cores of the right dimensions, but with the inlet and outlet in the wrong spot or clocked wrong, it's quite trivial to learn to sweat solder copper and you can probably either swivel the tubes while heating the joint (then flux/reflow just for good measure) or pull them out, carefully drill new holes, and sweat on new tubes made using plumbing supplies from your local home depot or something. I've been looking into doing this for my Justy since there are exactly zero aftermarket cores available and I know mine isn't gonna last forever - any chance you know the dimensions of MR2/AE86 ones offhand? It'd be rather amusing if it fits mine too. If the only replacements available are aluminum... well gently caress, you're gonna have to either learn to braze aluminum with zinc based rods, or TIG. Neither is cheap or particularly easy.
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Mar 7, 2016 17:19
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