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burning swine
May 26, 2004



Welcome to hell.

Was that brake line set complete (7 lines instead of 4, as required by zenkis)? If so, where did you buy it?

edit: can i buy one of your stock wheel hubcaps

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burning swine
May 26, 2004



Looks like the 7-line kit is only required for models made before 5/85. Goodridge makes a kit but it's $215 :ohdear:

I guess yours is a zenki, but it's not a zenki zenki. Enjoy learning about all of the subtle, undocumented differences. Although, yours is probably the one that all of the parts will actually fit properly.

burning swine
May 26, 2004



TheLarson posted:

I'll enjoy the huge zenki "GT-S TWIN CAM 16" graphics while I can.

If you trawl club4AG for long enough, you can probably get replacement decals. Worked for me.

burning swine
May 26, 2004



I like the plan. The plan is good.

Be advised that replacing the steering rack requires you to pop loose both engine mounts and jack up the engine. The FSM conveniently doesn't mention this detail.

burning swine
May 26, 2004



Man, I spent hours trying to get that stupid rack out before resigning to the necessity of lifting the engine. It was years ago though so I don't recall exactly what was blocking it - but I think it was just a matter of the space between the front subframe and the oil pan.

Either way, good luck.

TheLarson posted:

I'd love to see some more pics

Missed this last time. I don't want to derail your thread, so I'll just paste the link:
http://www.fopedush.com/?p=30

Recent-ish engine bay: http://upload.fopedush.com/fopedush/4age_2011.jpg

burning swine fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Dec 26, 2014

burning swine
May 26, 2004



SouthsideSaint posted:

now I know nothing of how this car is set up...But on all other cars when I need to do the power steering rack I just drop the subframe, is it not so easy on a TOFU DERIVERY vehicle??

The engine is mounted to the front subframe, so dropping the frame would drop the engine and rack all together as one unit and wouldn't alleviate the clearance issue.

burning swine
May 26, 2004



TheLarson posted:

pre-rounded off pressure hose bolts

TheLarson posted:

remanufactured A1 Cardone rack

Par for the course.

Coincidentally, both my original factory unit and the replacement had rubber o-rings in the pressure fittings.

burning swine
May 26, 2004



TheLarson posted:

Replacing the cluster lights can be accomplished with a few 194 bulbs and

FYI the ae86 dash responds extremely well to nice white LED replacement bulbs.



TheLarson posted:

[*]Figure out why the "door open" light on the gauge cluster is toast. Probably an always-on and now burned out condition. I fixed the door sensors (which were always "open") so hopefully it's just the cluster bulb.
Check the trunk? The rear hatch has a door sensor as well.

burning swine
May 26, 2004



TheLarson posted:

It does indeed but the dimmer functionality is lost with LEDs.

This is correct, unfortunately. It's hard to gauge brightness from a photo with who knows what exposure, but I haven't found them to be overly bright at night. In fact, I found the original incandescents to be annoyingly dim even at the maximum brightness. Your mileage may vary.

LEDs in a multitude of brightness levels are available, but of course that will take some trial and error.

burning swine
May 26, 2004



get the decallllls

burning swine
May 26, 2004



Whattup thelarson, I totally forgot about this thread. The new paint looks awesome, you're definitely doing this car right. Much props

My own project has been laid up in the garage for ages and slowed to a crawl last summer because life. I recently started back up though:

Turbo finally mounted:


Dropped the oil pan to tap it for an oil return line and got a look at my crankshaft:

Also confirmed that I have (as I thought) the thick rods and oil squirters. Between those and the 7-rib block I think this sucka should be able to handle boost

If you ever end up dropping the oil pan be ready for the windage tray to be completely glued to the block. I bent the crap out of mine during removal and decided to buy an undamaged one on ebay, which I then had to clean up with oven cleaner spray:


In other news my girlfriend got me this cool metal sign which I hung above the garage door:

:3:

burning swine fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Feb 26, 2016

burning swine
May 26, 2004



Apparently the windage tray is different on the 7-rib blocks and doesn't suffer the oil starvation problems that the original did. I consulted club4ag briefly and decided there was no justification for spending a lot of money on an aftermarket one.

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burning swine
May 26, 2004



TheLarson posted:


New heater cores are impossible to find for this car at any reasonable price point. Luckily I rarely need the heat where I live, but I'd like a functional system for good measure.

It's a real bitch, I feel your pain.



When I had to do this, I couldn't find the correct heater core at any price. I ended up putting in one from, I think, an MR2, which had the right overall dimensions but the inlet/outlet were not in quite the right spot. I had to widen the holes in the firewall to get it through then jbweld some sheet metal to cover the excess openings.

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