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Did you straighten up the bolts before the concrete set? That's usually the most annoying part of slab work. After the concrete is in but before it's set, going back and straightening conduits/rebar/bolts/etc. I'm sure you noticed that the concrete pump isn't a precision spray tool and a lump of concrete the size of a coffee can can pack something of a wallop. Another pre-concrete thing to do on anchor bolts is to wrap the threads in duct tape (sticky side out first, then sticky side in) to keep the concrete off of them. Saves having to wire-wheel the concrete spray off before putting nuts on. You can also spin a nut about halfway down each bolt and just use that to strip the concrete spray off, but then the screed guys just get annoyed that their boards don't get as close to the bolts as they want. Are you going to go with conduit or romex inside? What kind of lights?
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Feb 5, 2015 23:35
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I didn't do either of these things, since I didn't know to. The anchor bolts were held by little plastic things that were tack-nailed onto the foundation frame. They didn't get knocked completely off, but some of them are a little crooked. That's probably going to make getting the sole plate latched down a bit more annoying, but I don't think it's going to worsen the holding power any. Get a piece of trade size 1/2 or 3/4 black iron pipe and use that to bend them vertical. It should fit pretty snug over the whole length of the exposed bolt and not mess the threads up any. That way you don't have to hammer an ovalized-hole sill plate down. All will be forgiven by fender washers. Be super careful about "upgrad[ing your] main panel." That can, in some places, mean bringing your entire house up to current code. Absolutely not cheap nor easy.
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Feb 6, 2015 03:06
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:
Also, when nailing up sheets of plywood, you can just get one corner nailed then pivot about that corner to get the rest of the sheet. It prevents you from having to do some kind of crazy clamp setup or leaning on the sheet or something.
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Mar 15, 2015 19:53
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That's brilliant. Thanks for the tip!
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This wall isn't done done -- I still need to caulk the ends where the siding meets the trim, caulk over a few exposed nail heads near the top, and of course paint the thing. I can't recommend a paint sprayer enough for a job like this. It would seriously be worth your time and money even if you used it precisely once for the whole building then threw it away. Even the absolute cheapest, crappiest sprayer will work for long enough to get a small area like that done.
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Mar 20, 2016 02:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This was also brought up in the "don't burn your house down" thread: you get a lot of interference in your network cables if they're running alongside high-voltage lines. Recommended spacing is, you guessed it, 12". Fiber optic would work fine though. Personally my plan is to just improve wireless coverage in my house. A properly-positioned wireless repeater will be able to reach the workshop from the kitchen, through three sets of windows. You don't get "a lot" of interference. You'll MAYBE be limited to 100baseT instead of gigabit when running cat 6. You can also just run shielded cat6 and not worry at all. Put two conduits in. You will be happier later. Also, what crazy place is this where you're required to have separation for water and power? We share trenches all the time. 12" above the trench is two different flagging tapes.
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Aug 13, 2016 19:39
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