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Slavvy posted:I've looked at that site, it does none of those things. In every respect it behaves like a normal engine except for the vacuum being quite high at idle. The 900 RPM idle easily explains the high vacuum. I forget - did you try swapping the IACV for a known good one already? And at least on some Hondas (yeah, I know it's a Toyota), I know they have some bypass ports in the throttle body to keep it idling if the IACV packs it in, if they get clogged up then you get a wonky idle. The cambelt tensioner should take up any slack from stretching, unless the belt is so stretched that it's about to jump/break.
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Feb 13, 2015 08:29
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two_beer_bishes posted:98 Civic, how important is the exhaust manifold heat shield? It's been rattling and driving my wife crazy, and a new one is $60-80 that I'd much rather spend on anything else. Mostly highway driving, never park in tall grass. It's not that important. It unbolts pretty easily (if the bolts aren't seized). The clearcoat on the hood will probably peel a bit faster directly above it, but being a 98 Civic, I'd be amazed if it has much clearcoat left. I ripped mine off on my 96 Civic when it started rattling, and drove it for a couple more years like that. Recently ripped the one off of my Saturn as well due to rattling, found out it was rattling because it had cracked (the shield, not the manifold). melon cat posted:How difficult is it to replace a side view mirror? And roughly what kind of cost can I expect for an OEM replacement mirror? Check Amazon, you'll be surprised how many car parts are on there. I've found power mirrors on there for $30 before. Heated will run a little more. Obviously not OEM, but they worked just fine. They won't be painted though, so factor in taking them to a paint shop. Senior Funkenstien posted:Would a shorted pair stop all the speakers from working? The balance is fine on the head unit I even reset it. It could, but most head units would show "PROTECT" or some kind of error. Try disconnecting all but 1 speaker at the head unit end. Bovril Delight posted:Get a dynaplug. How have I not heard of these before? Getting one of those next time I get paid, I hate changing flats. spog posted:I want to take this opportunity to curse all POs who seem to have an inability to keep tyres at the right pressure. Stepdad got new tires recently. Sidewalls say 44 max, door jamb says 30 front, 35 back (2001 Ford F-150). He was bitching about how harsh they rode and how lovely the handling was. Checked the pressure - they all ranged from 40 to 65 PSI.  melon cat posted:Does this indicate that the mirror is heated? Yes.
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Feb 17, 2015 08:32
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Agreed, that's an easy fix.stump posted:My fiancées stupid '05 Vauxhall Corsa C (Holden Barina, Antipodeans) has a stupid handbrake problem, or a stupid Stump problem. Considering GM's track record, and mine, probably a mix of both. I'd guess the cable may be a bit stretched, it sounds like you've checked everything else. I can park my car on a steep hill (even San Francisco steep) and the handbrake holds it just fine, it just needs to go up an extra couple of clicks compared to flat ground (basically needs a yank  instead of a quick tug)
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Feb 22, 2015 07:41
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Alright guys I have a friend that wrecked her 2000 I think Honda CRV. She's a tiny lady at about 5' 9". We are trying to find her a good reliable SUV similar in size(or kinda close) as the CRV. Can you guys give some recommendations? I've searched Kia Sportages and Saturn Vues and recommended them to her but I'd like some more varied opinions. If she goes with a Vue, make drat sure to avoid the CVT transmission. It was only in 02-03 models, and only in the 4 cylinder. V6 models from 02-03 used a GM 3.0 V6 and an Aisin 5 speed automatic (the transmission is pretty bulletproof, I know nothing about that particular engine though); 04+ first gen V6 models had a Honda 3.5 drivetrain in them. The engine is bulletproof, the Honda transmission for 04 wasn't so great for reliability.. First gens are available with a manual transmission; base model is the same 2.2L Ecotec used in most of GM's smaller car lineup. The 2.2 is dog slow with an automatic in something that big, livable with a manual. The second gen comes with a 2.4 in the base model, which is a bit more powerful (169 hp/161 ft lbs vs 143 hp/152 ft lbs).
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Feb 25, 2015 05:12
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EZipperelli posted:Awesome. Thanks. Will check on this stuff tomorrow when I start messing with his engine. You can probably skip the water pump as long as the coolant has been maintained properly, unless it's either weeping or doesn't turn by hand easily. As others have mentioned, that engine had a casting flaw from 06 to early 09 model years that would cause the engine block itself to crack. If you see any signs of coolant on the engine itself, it may have a crack. Sometimes it happens suddenly and spectacularly (which happened to a friend of mine), usually it shows up as a small leak; in any event, if someone doesn't pay much attention to their car, the first sign is overheating when it runs low on coolant. Honda has an extended warranty to cover that exact issue - 10 years/unlimited mileage (originally 8 years) from the original date of sale. If you see any coolant on the engine itself (aside from directly under the water pump), do not pass go, take it to the dealer. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 05:45
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 ). All other trims get the 3.3 standard in the US. Looks like even the LX can be had with AWD too, and the standard equipment list is pretty drat nice. Too bad the only way to get factory HIDs is to go for the top of the line model (which starts at $11,000 more than the base model).That's for the 2015 model year anyway, according to Kia's US website. No idea on older ones, though I'm assuming since she was driving a 15 year old CR-V, she probably won't get the kind of insurance payout that will allow her to buy a brand new SUV. gently caress, was looking at the Sorento. Scratch that. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 07:05
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Crap. I was looking at the Sorento. The Sportage has the 2.4 in LX and EX trims, turbo 2.0 in the SX.
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Feb 25, 2015 07:13
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That cover looks like it may be able to just slip back on. It's purely cosmetic. Older seatbelts had bare metal buckles. I'm going to disagree with Slavvy on how long it'll take though, since that seat belt will have pretensioners inside it that are set off with the airbags (to tighten the belt). Replacing it will require disconnecting the battery and following whatever procedure exists to ensure the airbag system is drained of power. I'd guess 2 hours (book) labor. I'd see if the dealer will fix it under warranty and maybe leave out the part about it getting caught in the door.
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Feb 26, 2015 09:42
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I am, but O'Reilly's site says $183 (pre-tax, natch) for a CARB compliant MagnaFlow # 339004. RockAuto says $158 for a Walker #80945. Unless there's some emissions-rapetax on checkout I'm missing... I'm also shocked you're able to find one meeting CARB regulations at that price. fake edit: wow, just googled both part numbers. They actually are CARB compliant. I guess enough states have adopted California's emissions standards that making aftermarket cats compliant is becoming worthwhile for the aftermarket.
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Feb 27, 2015 13:20
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Neptr posted:Purolator is good and readily available. Not to mention damned cheap for what you get. Most Walmart Supercenters carry a good selection of Purolator filters. I'd be running a Purolator in my car now instead of the Fram it currently has if the WalMart I usually get my oil change stuff at had a Purolator in stock (it's a cartridge filter, so I can easily verify that there's no cardboard endcaps on this particular Fram). PaintVagrant posted:08 civic EX (1.8l) That's the textbook definition of something failing in the clutch hydraulics; my 95 Civic was doing the exact same thing, though it wound up being the slave cylinder in my case. Bleeding would fix it for a day or so, then the problem would return. The slave is a lot easier to replace; I'd probably try that first simply because it's easier and cheaper to throw a slave on it compared to the master. The creaking is probably just the pedal assembly needing a bit of grease (the clutch does the same on my car when it's really cold, sometimes squeaks a bit too).
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Mar 2, 2015 08:04
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Raluek posted:When that happened to me, I rebuilt all of the hydraulics and it didn't solve the problem. I suspect the pivot for the clutch fork is hosed. That happens too, but this is one of those few cases where "throw parts at it" is the best option before dropping the transmission. A bad throwout bearing could also cause odd clutch behavior, but try the cheap/easy poo poo before you go to full "spend several hours removing transmission, discover it actually is the hydraulics, swear at the 3-4 hours you spent removing it in the driveway, and how much work you have ahead of you to reassemble everything". Simply bleeding it and seeing if the issue goes away, even if it's only for 30 minutes, will confirm it's the clutch hydraulic system. And when the pivot is hosed, you generally feel the clutch binding up somewhat, either while engaging or releasing (cable or hydraulic, though you won't feel it as much with a hydraulic clutch). The hydraulics are more prone to failure than the fork, same with the throwout bearing (if it's the original), and the clutch hydraulics are a known weak spot on that generation Civic. tl;dr try the easy poo poo first, especially when it's something related to a hydraulic system. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Mar 2, 2015 |
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Mar 2, 2015 10:06
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Raluek posted:With regards to the insurance, I think it's best if she establishes her own policy at her new address before driving down. It's not really a problem to have two policies overlapping, and she can get insurance without proof she owns the vehicle. In fact, I'd expect the DMV would need proof of insurance before they'll let her transfer the title. That's how it is here too - can't title it without proof of insurance.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:49
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Perfzilla posted:Potentially stupid question: I'd vote for "impulsive". You're right in that the Avalon isn't exactly good at off roading (though it has decent ground clearance for a sedan), and also right in that you can drive it for 10+ more years without much beyond regular maintenance. Mom has an 03 Avalon XLS, and the only real work it's needed has been the EVAP system (a notable weak spot on the 2nd gen Avalon), some dry rotted vacuum lines, an exterior door handle, and taking apart the LF door when the window regulator over-extended. Beyond that, it has an appetite for batteries every few years. The Subaru would be a great second vehicle, but you can count on it needing a timing belt immediately unless the seller can provide proof that it's been done recently, and probably count on it needing head gaskets at some point (on top of it not driving like a couch on wheels). You also need to make sure all 4 tires are matching, unless you want some expensive repairs at some point. And if you actually want to go off the beaten path, a Jeep of some sort with the nearly unkillable 4.0 would be a better choice, IMO (and likely a lot cheaper). The Forester is a great vehicle, but it's a big downgrade from the Avalon, IMO. Also, if you're dead set on the Forester, find a Carmax nearby and see what they'll give you for your car; they tend to give a pretty fair offer, even if you don't buy from them. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Mar 6, 2015 |
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Mar 6, 2015 07:32
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1500quidporsche posted:You pretty much have to dismantle the entire interior, clean everything, put it all back together and ride with the windows down for six months. I know a lot of people who smoke (most people I know are smokers) - the car I have now is the first car I've told people "nope, don't even think about lighting a cigarette". Pretty much all but one has been understanding. And yeah, the smell from even just one cigarette takes weeks to get rid of. Black88GTA posted:So I'm having a bit of an issue with my old Prelude. Classic Honda ignition switch issue. Fortunately, yours is automatic, so you can still get around by starting it in neutral, shifting into drive while still holding the key in start, and just drive it while holding the key in start. Not the greatest thing for the car, but it'll get you to a shop (your generation prelude lacked a clutch safety switch, so if it was manual, you'd be screwed). I've personally owned 2 cars that have done the exact same thing, and helped 3 friends with the same issue. Except all of them were manual (and thankfully new enough to have a clutch safety switch), so shifting took a lot of coordination. And yes, the issue generally first shows up during a cold snap. Thunder Moose posted:When I drive out of my parking lot - which has a fairly steep ramp, I notice the bottom scrapes against the concrete. I assume this is problematic but wish to know to what degree and if any tips on alleviating the problem are available. If possible, exit at a 45 degree angle. That will line things up so that if anything scrapes, it'll only be one corner of your bumper.
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Mar 8, 2015 07:45
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EightBit posted:
Krakkles posted:Shifting into drive with a NSS would disable the starter, though.  Never do it on something that doesn't disable the starter once you're in gear or foot off the clutch, but anything made in the past 25+ years should have a clutch safety switch. And a safety interlock has been mandatory on cars sold in the US with automatic transmissions since at least the early 80s. I know for a fact that his car does disable the starter once it's in drive, though I can't remember if it's a physical interlock that keeps you from turning the key to start or if it just disables the starter circuit (it's the exact same interlock my Integra had, may even have the same part number for the switch, but I got rid of that car 10 years ago).
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Mar 9, 2015 05:07
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str, that's a terrible bit of advice. Blow up the starter, while driving with one hand holding the key.
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Beyond what kastein and SD said, high output bulbs simply don't last as long as your traditional halogen bulb - they're cranking out a bit more light, with the same wattage/voltage, which means the filament runs a lot hotter. Which means it burns out faster. 4 months is on the short side for sure though, I generally get about 1-2 years out of Phillips Xtreme Vision bulbs (which are also high output bulbs - and a bit cheaper - and a bit brighter than Silverstar Ultras, just have to order them online). The majority of cars I've owned have had the original headlamp bulbs when I purchased the car, and they still work fine when I remove them, they're just on the dim side. The shortened bulb lifespan is worth it for me, since I do most of my driving at night, and do a decent bit of driving on rural roads.
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Mar 10, 2015 15:07
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1500quidporsche posted:I'm pretty sure its the floor mat at this point and I've got no clue how this would happen anyways but I thought I'd ask. It's possible the cable has worn through its sheath and is binding up somewhere, and when you hit the brake pedal, something is flexing enough to allow it to release. Had it happen on one of my Honda Accords, the cable had worn through at the firewall, though I'd usually have to lift the pedal back up with my foot after I'd ignored it for long enough (and it eventually got stuck entirely, that was a load of fun!).
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Mar 11, 2015 06:17
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RillAkBea posted:Stupid electrical question. The lights on the air conditioning panel and one of the gauge cluster lights on my 92 Miata only work intermittently. What course of action should be taken to make them work all the time? Replace the bulbs.
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Mar 11, 2015 15:54
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Fart Pipe posted:Ok so I got a look at the Del Sol today and it looks like its not the main relay. Fuel pump works and the engine light turns off like its supposed to (thanks Aceofnett) but it doesnt have spark. We found 2 of the plug wires loose and the cap and rotor were in horrible condition. I guess that with no load on the coil it can destroy the coil or ignitor? I had never heard of that previous to this but one of the youtube videos for the main relay mentioned it. So we went to remove the rotor and found the screw that was supposed to be holding it on completely missing. Ended up destroying the rotor and the metal collar that holds it on to the shaft WILL NOT COME OFF like a huge oval office. So my dad is going to get a distributor from the junk yard so we at least know we'll have a known good coil/ignitor to work with. Of course I wasnt able to check if the injectors were working because I forgot my test light. I'm betting that screw backed out and got tossed around inside the distributor; probably what caused it to die. If there was no load from the loose wires, it would have been pulling 2 cylinder action long before it died. The screw backing out is actually kind of common (on Hondas) if you don't use a dab of loctite on it when you change the rotor. Usually it causes the rotor to back off just enough to stop spinning, but if it's seized on the shaft, the screw gets pulverized into conductive dust (or it creates a new exit through the cap). I'm betting once it has a new distributor on it, it'll fire right up. And being the D15, you can use a distributor from any other D15 Civic (as long as you match OBD1 or OBD2). Possibly a D16 non-VTEC distributor. The crank angle sensor is part of the oil pump assembly on OBD2 D series engines, doesn't exist on OBD1. They very rarely fail. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 01:30
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Fart Pipe posted:Good to know about the crank angle sensor, Ill check that on Sunday but I think it might be OBD1 since its a 95, I dont know a ton about Hondas though. A 95 USDM/CDM Honda will definitely be OBD1, even a late 95. They really didn't have to add much to make them work with OBD2 though - an OBD2 D series will run happily in an OBD1 car with only swapping a couple of sensors (if that), though you'd have to add a few sensors to run an OBD1 D series in an OBD2 car. Distributor may also be different. Sounds like whoever was last in there didn't bother with the cap gasket either; it shouldn't have been rusty in there. I'm betting the tach went apeshit just before it died, if it failed the same way that my Integra's distributor failed. The tach looked like Michael J Fox right before mine died, and about 30 minutes before it started twitching at random.
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Mar 12, 2015 09:16
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Does this jerking seem to happen around 3000 RPM, and only around that RPM? Is the check engine light lit up? Also, for future reference, your car has a 2.2L 4 cylinder, not a 4 liter (4L = 4 liter). And it has 4 spark plugs, not one. Generally when spark plugs are worn out, you get a noticeable hard start issue when it's cold, and missing while it's cold and/or idling (shaking). Usually once you get the RPMs up, the misfire goes away until the plugs are really shot. They're also dead easy to replace on your engine;  in tools and 30 minutes of work (if you stop to chug a beer between each plug) is all it takes.The reason I ask about the RPMs and check engine light - if the computer is in what's commonly known as limp or limp home mode (meaning "running good enough to get you home"), it won't rev past a set RPM, usually around 2500 or 3000 RPM on Hondas. When it hits that mark, it starts doing what's known as fuel cut - meaning it shuts off the fuel until the RPMs drop below that set RPM, then turns the fuel back on, off, on, off, etc. It's designed to keep the engine from revving fast enough to cause any (possibly further) damage when something has caused the engine computer to have little to no idea what's going on with the engine, but will cause a violent jerking when you hit that particular RPM. The check engine light will pretty much always be lit up when the computer has gone into limp home mode, and may sometimes be flashing. If it's flashing, it means pull over right now and get it towed. It's also possible for the ECU to go into that mode without turning on the check engine light if the ECU has been damaged. Your car is old enough that a lot of shops will have no idea how to actually diagnose anything on it (they'll just throw parts at it), but all it takes to "pull codes" (basically get the computer to tell them what it thinks is wrong) is a paperclip jammed into a plug under the dash. Beyond that, it takes a little more troubleshooting than a newer car, but they're really simple cars to work on. Since it runs better after the coil swap, the coil probably was bad (Honda puts them inside the distributor, and they eventually crack and somewhat short out from the heat), but you have other issues going on as well. And 190k is nothing on a 90-93 Accord; I personally think that they are the most solid generation Accord that Honda ever built. They're just the right mix of simplicity while still bringing fuel injection as standard equipment (the prior generation offered fuel injection as an option, and had enough vacuum lines to scare off even the most dedicated mechanic). Just make sure the timing belt and water pump get changed every 90k, do the most basic of maintenance on everything else, and it'll run to at least 300-500k. If it were my car, I'd say it wouldn't hurt to maybe swap the engine computer, since you know it has water damage. You can use one from a 90 or 91 Accord, preferably automatic, and preferably from the same trim (DX/LX/EX, as each trim of that year actually had a slightly different engine), but the engine computer is smart enough to adapt to the engine if you wind up with one from a different trim. 92-93 will not work properly, even though it's the same body style (go by the model year, not the date it was built). It's very rare that an engine computer goes bad, but if it's gotten wet and not running properly afterwards, it's a pretty cheap part for your particular car (especially on ebay), and takes just a few minutes to swap. If you tried to start it while the ECU was taking a (snow)bath, there's a decent chance that the computer was damaged. I'd also suggest looking for a shop that specializes in either Hondas, or at least Asian cars. Or tell us what part of the world/country you're in, and maybe one of us can suggest a shop/swing by and get drunk. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Mar 14, 2015 |
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Mar 14, 2015 12:26
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JosefStalinator posted:I live in the DFW area in Texas, a bit North of Dallas specifically (Denton). If you have any recommendations for places I could bring it to get the codes read from someone who actually knows what they're doing, it'd be appreciated. I wouldn't be shocked if something was wrong as per Kastein's post, or if you're right and the computer is just bad since it did get completely soaked. Denton, you say? Small world.Yeah, I know just the guy actually, and he's in the middle of Denton near the county jail (on Woodrow). He's worked on every car I've owned, including the Saturn, and originally started out as a Honda-only guy at his father in law's shop. His FIL owns Danny's Import Service in Lewisville, which only works on Honda/Acura. He opened his own shop in Denton a few years ago, and specializes in Japanese cars (particularly Hondas). He's good enough that I gladly make the ~45 minute drive to see him when I can't tackle something myself. Give Jason a call at All About Imports - (940) 566-2125. He really knows his poo poo, especially with 90s Hondas. He's one of the most honest guys I've ever met (look him up on yelp if you want proof). Jason sometimes has a bit of a wait, since he's mostly a 1 man operation. If he asks who sent you, tell him some internet nerd named Sean Dunbar. There's also a DCTA bus stop just down the street, if he wants to keep the car awhile and can't give you a ride. He's officially open Mon-Fri during typical hours. Raluek posted:Just wait for STR to come back; he lives or lived in that area and I'm sure he's got some recommendations. Heh, yeah. I've known Jason (and his father in law) since 1998. Hell of a good guy. I don't live in Denton anymore, but I'm still up there a couple of times a month (I'll be up there in about 6 hours, actually, at Denton UUF), and plan to move back up there next year. JosefStalinator posted:Agreed. If there are any other Denton or DFW goons around, I'd love for a recommendation for a good mechanic. The one's I've been to around here are poo poo. Agreed for many (most?) shops in Denton, though there's actually a DIY shop up there on Dallas Dr. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Mar 15, 2015 |
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Mar 15, 2015 08:07
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CharlesM posted:I thought I've read on here that the ELM327 clones have some trouble with those cars but I can't find the relevant post. I think maybe it was Some Texas Redneck? For my Mazda though I actually needed the engine running for whatever reason. The issues I've had with the clones were with Fords (late 90s to early 00s). I wound up spending some extra cash on an adapter that the author of Torque used to recommend - PLX Kiwi (doesn't seem to recommend it anymore, but the only issue I've had is the case fell apart). I've had it about 3 years now. Looks like the cheapest good adapter recommended by Torque's author is the Scantool.net line of adapters.
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Mar 16, 2015 04:16
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Yeah uh, voluntarily putting a large amount of salt on/in a vehicle is just not a good idea, unless you live in the land of 0% humidity where it never, ever, ever rains and you can avoid every single puddle. Get sand.
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Mar 16, 2015 04:40
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Senior Funkenstien posted:My ranger is clean as poo poo and rust free. I think I can throw some leftover 40 pound bags of salt in the plastic tub thats in the truck bed and see what happens. Welp nevermind, I didn't realize you had a decent bed liner.  Carry on then.
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Mar 16, 2015 06:00
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JosefStalinator posted:Thank you so much STR! I'm going to give him a call in a few hours, and this should help me at least figure out what's going on with my car. I'm up there at least every other Sunday and a couple of Wednesdays every month, careful what you wish for.  Glad I could point you his way, he's a good guy and a great mechanic. Bank posted:I've got a 1999 Honda Accord V6 Sedan that I've been trying to sell for my dad. He told me there were no issues aside from a starting problem, but I never noticed it. The car is actually having a really rough time idling (they don't drive very well so I'm not surprised they didn't notice it).The car has always started when I've driven it hot or cold not sure if it was a fluke my parents ran into. Anyway, the rough idle is pretty bad, and I would be embarrassed as poo poo if I let someone test drive it this way. I should have taken longer video, but I'm dumb: That's a (large) vacuum leak causing that. Whenever Hondas of that era have a large enough vacuum leak, they get the bouncing idle - the vacuum leak causes the idle to shoot way up, and the ECU sees it climbing and shuts off the injectors until it drops back to where it should be. Rinse, repeat, and you get the bouncing idle. It does sound a bit rough, but the spark plugs are good for 100k - if they're original, they're due for replacement, but it should still run fine with the originals. Of more concern is if the timing belt and water pump have been changed - it should be done every 110k/7 years (whichever comes first), but if you're trying to sell it, having done that might increase the value only slightly (and only to someone who actually knows they're supposed to be done regularly). The only vacuum line large enough to cause that on that generation Accord would be the vacuum line going to the brake booster (it's what your brake master cylinder is mounted to). Check that line for cracks, and also listen for a hissing from that area (if the brake booster is bad, it can cause a large vacuum leak). Also check the intake tube between the air filter and throttle body to make sure it's tight - IIRC the V6 model uses a mass airflow sensor, any unmetered air getting in (i.e. any air not making it past the airflow sensor) will confuse the engine computer. A bad FITV (fast idle thermo valve - it's what's responsible for the cold idle) could also cause that. I don't think the IACV is capable of raising the idle high enough for the ECU to cut fuel. If it's not a vacuum line, if you have a propane torch, you can pass it around (UNLIT, but with the valve open) any possible vacuum leak spots - the idle will raise significantly when you find a leak. The throttle body, and where the intake manifold bolts to the engine, are good starting places (you'll need to remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine first). Get the idle taken care of, then you can figure out the transmission. Hate to tell you this, but the transmission Honda used with V6s between 98-04 was a pile of poo poo; if it's slipping or acting up, change the transmission fluid (with genuine Honda fluid; they're very picky about the fluid you use) and hope for the best. Honda transmissions of that era aren't the smoothest shifting either, and they also downshift through all the gears as you come to a stop (if you watch the tach while slowing down, you'll see it jump up a bit as it downshifts). The high idle plus the transmission dropping into 1st could be causing the jerk. Maybe. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Mar 16, 2015 |
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Mar 16, 2015 22:05
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What Slavvy said - your clutch isn't releasing fully, the "wall" your hitting is the synchros. The synchros give zero resistance while the clutch is in and the vehicle is stationary (once the transmission has spun down, which only takes a few seconds once you step on the clutch while stationary), you only use then if you're moving. That can be caused by the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and/or the flexible hose between the body and slave cylinder.
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Mar 23, 2015 03:29
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I've only owned one car that didn't have hubcaps. FWIW, some cars have the hubcaps held on either by the lugnuts (Honda comes to mind, they have a plastic piece near the base of the lugnuts that holds them on) or plastic "lugnuts" that thread into the real lugnuts (GM).
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Mar 25, 2015 02:14
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Almost forgot - I've had 2 with alloys - my 88 Accord LXi. That car was such a miserable pile that I'd forgotten about it. 90-93 Accord EXs had a locking lugnut cover on the alloys - of course, it just took the ignition key to unlock them, but if they'd been locked for a long time, good luck unlocking them. I want to say it was optional on the 86-89 Accord LXi/SEi and 88-91 Prelude Si as well.
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Mar 25, 2015 03:30
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 Apple has locked down bluetooth to the point that the BT adapters don't work on iOS.You need a wifi version for iPhone/iPad/etc.
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Mar 25, 2015 06:14
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LP has been a clusterfuck of its own, even stock LP 5.1 has issues with streaming music on my phone (cuts out every 10 minutes for a few seconds).  And that's on a Nexus device...
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Mar 25, 2015 06:36
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If there's dent removal, they're probably not replacing the panel. Replacing the rear quarter panel would require cutting and welding. If it'll be less than $1000 to repair, you'll likely be better off paying cash compared to having your insurance increase at renewal. Of course, this depends on your state, your insurance carrier, and if you have accident forgiveness or not.
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Mar 27, 2015 02:53
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Yeah uh, unless you're on a barebones budget, , look into Penske. Much newer/better maintained equipment, not a massive amount more than Uhaul, and you might actually wind up with something with fuel injection and air conditioning! Uhaul is notorious for "oh you booked something this big and with a/c, but all we have is something a lot smaller, with 300k+ miles, and no a/c, for the same price, unless you want to drive 20 miles.. and they may or may not have it". They've hosed me several times like that, which was awesome when I was moving in the middle of August. My last rental from them (5 years ago) wound up being a 1986 Toyota pickup chassis, engine told nonstop knock knock jokes, a/c didn't work, truck couldn't idle on its own, couldn't get over ~45 mph while empty and floored, and it was belching thick black smoke anytime I looked at the throttle (blue smoke otherwise). I was honestly amazed it didn't window the block while I had it.
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Mar 28, 2015 05:14
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JosefStalinator posted:STR and other posters speculated about the problem and guessed that the ECM was damaged (since it got soaked). By sheer coincidence STR suggested a mechanic that has a shop ~10 minutes from where I live, and he cheaply and quickly diagnosed it. 40 bucks for a new ECM off ebay and the car is running perfectly, and I'm pretty drat sure there's nothing else wrong with it at this point. Kickass, I'm glad he was able to help you out. He's good people. It's pretty much never the ECU/ECM - unless it's taken a bath. SperginMcBadposter posted:Same cylinder. I only replaced the one that was misfiring. Try swapping coils with another cylinder and see if the misfire code follows the coil. And the pending code is because the engine isn't heating up as fast as the ECU wants it to (or it's running on the hot side - what did Torque say the coolant temp was?). You can probably plan on doing a thermostat at some point.
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Mar 29, 2015 02:45
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Most OBD2 ECUs have what's called "two trip logic" - meaning it takes two trips with the same issue before the code is set. See if it's still in a pending state next time you drive it, or if it's been set. If it's listed as a current fault, then it'll show up in red in torque (and turn on the check engine light on its own, if it wasn't already on for your misfire).
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Mar 29, 2015 03:48
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Slavvy posted:There will be a hard-point under the front of your car somewhere that you place the jack under, STR should be able to tell you where it is on that model specifically. As for the axle stands, there will be designated hard-points at the bottom of the sills on either side of the car, one for the front and one for the rear (so four in total). Place your axle stands under these bits. They aren't hard to find, they're intended to be used with the factory jack for when you change tyres by the side of the road so they're reinforced to take the weight of the car. I've run into a couple of imperial bolts on the Ion, but only little tiny bolts/screws (front corner lights, stereo, cluster, etc). And they're small enough that they could actually be metric, but the metric socket that "fit" felt a bit loose. Anyway, GotDonuts, if you're using the lovely scissor jack, use the pinch welds. From the owner's manual (the picture is for a sedan, but the coupe is similar):  If you're using a real jack, and not that piece of poo poo scissor jack in the trunk, place it under where the shock attaches to the control arm on that particular wheel, get the car high enough, and place a jack stand either under the control arm, or under the pinch weld (let it down really slow if you place it under the pinch weld). Or as Neptr said, you can also lift it by the front subframe. No matter how you lift it, use jack stands. Since you're doing the end links, it'll probably be better to have the car supported by something other than the control arms.
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Apr 1, 2015 01:55
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Do you not have another key matching the rest of the locks in the car? If you do, you can probably get in through the trunk (turn it left instead of right). If not, you'll probably have to find a way to get to a dealer, with proof of ownership (insurance ID card usually works), and get them to order a key for you. A valet key will be cheaper, and should (probably) unlock the passenger door and turn the ignition, but won't unlock the trunk. Also try turning the key as if you were unlocking the door twice, if you haven't. I'm not sure about BMWs, but that unlocks all the doors on most cars I've owned, instead of just the drivers door.
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Apr 1, 2015 06:40
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I'm going to disagree with Extra; brake fluid should be flushed every few years.
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Apr 2, 2015 06:06
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Modus Man posted:Tire question: You should be fine, but you should probably look into why it's wearing the inside edge faster. A lot of shops do an "X" rotation anyway - where the front left gets moved to the back right, front right moved to the back left, etc - assuming the tires aren't directional. Also 50k out of a set of tires?
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Apr 2, 2015 06:29
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 22:47 |
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System too lean is either a vacuum leak, a leak in the intake tube behind the MAF, or a fuel system issue. Since it cut out on you a couple of times, I'd be leaning more toward a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. The knock sensors are a bitch to get to (need to remove the intake manifold), but it's rare for both of them to go bad at the same time. Check the wiring harness for rodent damage - that's what it wound up being on our Avalon (which has the same engine). The misfire is likely related to running lean, though it's possible he never changed the spark plugs (they're good for 100k). I'd check for any loose/cracked stuff between the air filter housing and throttle body, and toss a new set of spark plugs at it (the rear ones will require removing the upper half of the intake manifold). If he was as bad about maintenance as you say, it's also way overdue for a timing belt/water pump as well, though that's a $600+ job on that engine unless you do it yourself (if you just want to sell it, disclose that it will need the timing belt done, and price it accordingly). And it's worth a bit more than you think. KBB says it's worth $4k in "fair" condition with a Dallas zip code, for a private party sale. Clean it up and that jumps up to $5k.
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Apr 4, 2015 03:30
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