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MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR

McMadCow posted:

That green tea looks really nice, I just went out and bought a box for experimentation and deliciousness. I can't post the results here though, because of SA's ironfisted anti-fun stance.

What? Just post a link and say it's NSFW.

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MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR
Ilford MGIV FB matte. I can get it pretty much anywhere that stocks photo paper.

MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR

big scary monsters posted:

I don't waste nearly enough money on my bad photography at the moment so I'm currently converting my spare bathroom into a darkroom. For a start I'm just going to use it for developing so I can do away with my sweaty sack of darkness and have a nicer work area than the kitchen sink, but I'm keeping my eyes open on Gumtree for an enlarger too.

I'm curious roughly how many sheets of paper it takes most of you to get a print you're happy with. Presumably half a sheet or so for test strips and then ??? actual prints too.

My test strips are 1/8 of a sheet and I use 2-4 depending on the negative and whether I'm doing split filter printing.

BANME.sh posted:

Can you do all your testing on cheaper paper and then do the final print on the good stuff? Or does the type of paper affect the outcome?

I would definitely use the same kind of paper for the whole process. Using a different, cheaper paper is false economy since you're introducing a variable that could negatively affect your final result.

MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR

Pham Nuwen posted:

I seem to remember someone in the Dorkroom printing directly onto walls, brushing the emulsion on top of the white paint. Ring any bells?

I don't know who it was but it was probably with this stuff: http://rockaloid.com/darkroom-emulsions/Liquid-Light-emulsion-half-pint

MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR
It's because you have your grades flipped - 00 will be the lowest contrast, so you use that to get your highlights, not your shadows. 5 is the highest contrast so you use that to get your shadows. It should work in either order (though there are various reasons to prefer one order or the other). Also, if your exposure times with the 5 filter are too short, stop down.

MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR

nielsm posted:

Dumb idea I got: Throw regular laser prints into enlarger and blow up a lot. has anyone tried that? Is it worth wasting time and paper on?

If you're willing to make those compromises, just get inkjet transparencies and make digital negatives.

MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR
Is there a European equivalent of Gralab?

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MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR

Catsby posted:

He did say I was a retard for wanting to do cyanotype since it's super toxic and the sunlight will be too weak in winter to expose it, but I guess nothing worth doing is easy.

Don't heat the chemicals above 65C or mix them with a strong acid and you won't get any free cyanide at all. Potassium ferricyanide is used in Europe as an anticaking agent in table salt - you might see it in ingredients lists as E536. You look like a fairly skinny guy but I guarantee you you'd have to consume at least 300 grams of potassium ferricyanide to put your life in danger.

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