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How do y'all flatten your prints? My "stuffed in a stack of books for a week" method is pretty unimpressive.
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# ¿ Mar 4, 2015 22:44 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 10:37 |
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nielsm posted:Put them in a frame, keep flat with glass. I think you vastly underestimate the crinklyness of my poo poo
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2015 05:45 |
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eggsovereasy posted:Is that the natural tone of argyrotypes or did you tone it with something? Yeah that green tea looks nice. I like the rich shadows you get with long toning times in tea but my highlights always come out stained too dark. Instant coffee seems to be an ok compromise with less highlight staining.
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# ¿ Mar 6, 2015 23:00 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:Well my first (rushed) attempt at cyanotype was a laughable fuckup. So many variables can affect exposure times. I've been recording exposure times and EV for ballpark figures then I plan to go back and look up the UV index charts for my exposure dates and times when I want more precision. My home laser (HP4000 series something or other) made such a thin neg that the exposure times I've been getting with my work printed negs were far too long. I've been using heavy sketching paper without any problems. Save your fuckups for experiments with toning and bleaching: voodoorootbeer posted:Had to print a new negative since the first version came out scratched and I wanted to see if my home printer is comparable to my work printer. It is not. Neg came out really thin with strangely high accutance. i vastly overestimated the exposure time and ended up with this: Oh yeah and there's this for artificial light exposure but I'm pretty happy with sunlight for now. voodoorootbeer fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Mar 10, 2015 |
# ¿ Mar 10, 2015 20:37 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:I would too, but I can't remember anything more than "I think I saw someone doing prints on the wall". I'll try searching for it. You could black out your entire window except for a single magnifying lens that projects the image but managing focal distance would be a real pisser -- my cardboard box cyanoneg camera has a ~2"x6" fresnel lens that requires a ~5"-6" focal length (depending on distance to subject). I think most of those "make your room a giant camera obscura" experiments use a tiny pinhole style aperture and everything I've seen seems to indicate that cyanotype is just plain not sensitive enough to handle pinhole exposures. You never know though. Splatter some of that poo poo on a wall and see what happens.
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2015 05:21 |
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McMadCow posted:Yeah, I did some quick math the other day trying to figure out the exposure of a sheet of cyanotype in my 8x10 camera and it was in the day+ range. That was wide open at f9. A room-sized pinhole camera obscura is going to have an aperture in the triple-digits. It could take months. What are you using to do your calculations? Did you find something that lets you compensate for UV coatings? Edit - this is why I use a simple magnifying lens instead of an actual old 50mm 1.8 or something.
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2015 21:04 |
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Primo Itch posted:I want to start this off with a gently caress you, thread Those double exposures are pretty dope.
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2015 03:23 |
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Primo Itch posted:
Also: coffee gives you dark blue green blacks with even less stain than green tea with the time frame of black tea. Both instant coffee and spent coffee grounds seem to give the same shadow tones, but grounds seem to stain less than instant.
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2015 01:33 |
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Primo Itch posted:How do you prepare the coffee toning bath? Any particular tips? I'm probably go with ground if it stains less... For the grounds, I save up 2-3 days worth of spent grounds (8-12 tbsp pre-brewing?) then add 500ml boiling water and let it steep all day. Filter out the solids with a French press.
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2015 03:20 |
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Primo Itch posted:I think I'm in love with coffee toning. Now just overexpose your print a little then bleach it for the ultimate in shadow detail control.
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2015 18:52 |
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I'm going to reprint both of these so that the size and toning match up, so given that: am I justified in thinking this makes an effective diptych (for display side by side)? Diptych by Alex, on Flickr
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2015 04:35 |
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Proof of concept: forest mushroom cyanotype from medium format negative on... log by Alex, on Flickr This is gonna be so cool when I get all the kinks ironed out. Might display them with a little magnifying lens on a chain.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2015 03:00 |
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Possibly, although I'd be tempted to just smear it with some kind of polyurethane and just call it a day. My brother has done some resin stuff so I might talk to him once I have the end result where I want it. Lessons learned: Sanding the cross section to "pretty goddamn smooth" is not enough -- needs to be exceptionally smooth. Pressing a negative completely flat to anything that isn't pliable is tricky. I need to sell enough of these to buy a LF camera so that I can print on bigger logs.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2015 06:09 |
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I've been using a mouse sander but I'm certainly willing to try a heavy sanding block if that's a better method. I have a few more chunks from this particular pine log left to play with and my dad has some hickory logs of various (paper towel tube through oatmeal canister) sizes that I plan on chopping up to use initially. I get the feeling that each wood and possibly each individual tree will have its own ring / grain structure that needs to be taken into account when it comes to composition which makes this whole project even cooler. I did another print last night that gave me some more ideas w/r/t negative selection so I'll post some more once I have logs that I feel comfortable exchanging for currency.
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2015 03:04 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:For the hell of it, I spread some cyanotype formula on a white t-shirt and gave it a shot: How do you feel about the general durability of the emulsion on a stretchy fabric?
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2015 02:05 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 10:37 |
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Got an anthotype (pokeberry emulsion) cooking in my attic window. Based roughly on the current climate here it should be ready by Christmas.
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2015 04:10 |