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I mentioned before how the Citadel tree set is awesome and I liked everything about it. It's really detailed and fun to paint. The Wall Of Martyrs set is not, both the fortification and the defense line. It's clearly computer designed, which is fine but it means they could have fixed the flaws so easily yet didn't. There are dozens of soft edges that make it very easy for paint to run off onto the wrong area. Some details are simply wrong: the front of the wall has metal bands and two of the bands vanish when they get to the back of the wall- they just stop because the producers forgot about them. The end sections of the defense line are four of the exact same piece, an added touch of laziness. Use dark colors and lots of drybrushing if you have this kit. I went for a bone and gold scheme, way too many touchups necessary.
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Mar 11, 2015 18:16
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Ah go on then         
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Mar 11, 2015 18:19
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Skarsnik you have been, and always shall be, my nerdcrush.
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Mar 11, 2015 18:20
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What red did you use on those Blood Angels? It is the perfect 2nd ed shade.
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Mar 11, 2015 18:21
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Awesome OP dude. Lots of work going into that bad boy! Hit me up if you need some line break images like in the 40k threads OP. e: Some of my minis for page 2 mini porn        
BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Mar 11, 2015 |
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Mar 11, 2015 18:23
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Post 9-11 User posted:I mentioned before how the Citadel tree set is awesome and I liked everything about it. It's really detailed and fun to paint. The new terrain is uniformly poo poo and I detest it. One of the best sets they ever made was the warhammer walls and fences. Also yes skarsnik with the model ownage.
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Mar 11, 2015 18:28
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Fyrbrand posted:Skarsnik you have been, and always shall be, my nerdcrush.  Big Willy Style posted:What red did you use on those Blood Angels? It is the perfect 2nd ed shade. Back then it would have been Mechrite Red, then layered with Blood Red. (airbrushed on the dread) Highlighted with BA Orange and then Vomit Brown. For the captain there was a Baal Red glaze done before the top highlight to get that proper deep red. Then a real high top white highlight to make it look shiny The reds are basically unchanged so you can swap all those for the new colours no probs - as in the librarian shoulders and gun Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Mar 11, 2015 |
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Mar 11, 2015 18:31
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Skarsnik posted:Ah go on then 
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Mar 11, 2015 18:32
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Skarsnik posted:
I really regret not getting my hands on that captain model. he's ace.
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Mar 11, 2015 18:36
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Good job I bought two then, you want one?
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Mar 11, 2015 18:43
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Skarsnik posted:Good job I bought two then, you want one? What do you want in exchange, i'm sure I have something knocking around here. Or just cold hard cash?
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Mar 11, 2015 18:46
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something cool to paint would be better, if I wanted cash it'd be on ebay PM me
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Mar 11, 2015 18:49
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I've been getting more practice in with gloss coating, oil washes and then matte coating models with pretty great results so far. I love the vallejo liquid gold, silver, etc. line of paints, but don't know the timing on when to put it on the model. I assume gloss and matte varnishes mess with the luster, but how can I uniformly apply a wash and protect the metallic paint?
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Mar 11, 2015 20:40
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I ran into the same problem. To solve it I apply my acrylics, alcohol base coat, and washes. Then I varnish. Only after that do I hit the highlights.
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Mar 11, 2015 22:47
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Just reposting old poo poo? Don't mind if I do!       
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Mar 11, 2015 23:36
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Mar 11, 2015 23:48
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Here's what I have to say to anyone interested in getting some shortcuts to save time or labor while being a newbie. None of this stuff is hard to do or hard to use, but if you aren't a highly skilled painter, this can help you fool your friends into thinking you're pretty good. 1- Didi's Magic Ink, available from The War Store http://www.thewarstore.com/didismagicink.html Didi's Magic Ink comes in 5 colors, black probably being the most useful. The reason this stuff owns is because it's not a typical ink. You could probably make your own, but I don't know how. It's a very thin, very potent, and very viscous ink. What it does is get in all the nooks and crannies of whatever you're painting, so on high detail areas you can just slather it on, dry your brush, and then use capillary action to pull excess off the mini. What you're left with is basically automatic blacklining. If you want it to look dirty, you can leave the excess and it looks like oil grime. Caveat when using this is that you'll want to SPRAY a varnish on top of it, because otherwise any additional paint you put on it will moisturize it and you'll end up removing the stuff with your upper layers. Didi's can also be used as a shade by spraying it on with an airbrush, because it dries so incredibly quickly. It comes out basically being the opposite effect of brushing it on. 2- Montana Alcohol Inks, available from Dick Blick http://www.dickblick.com/products/montana-black-marker-dye-ink-refills/ These inks are alcohol based, so you'll need some denatured alcohol or something like that to clean your brushes. The reason why this stuff is special is because it's ridiculously thin and potent, and mixable. There are a few different kinds here based on the color. Black ink is really, really strong. They actually call it Strong Black, and for good reason. The black ink is what I use to clean up base rims. It's great if you want a single coat solid black, because it will cover in one stroke completely blacking out anything underneath it. The silver is similar, except it's silver. In my opinion, it's just as good if not better than Vallejo Liquid Gold, because you can paint on top of it with acrylics and it can be sealed with regular varnish. It is highly reflective and covers in one pass, and doesn't come out grainy like most acrylic metallics. The other colors are basically like alcohol versions of Minitaire Ghost Tint. What I really love about the silver is that you can get impressive looking detail on guns with a single pass of metallic ink and a single pass of Didi's. You can also put Ghost Tint on top of it to make what looks like an automotive metallic. 3- Minitaire Ghost Tint I know you covered this in the OP, but it should be noted that this stuff is highly potent and any use of it by a regular brush will comes out streaky because it's just so goopy. Any subtle use requires an airbrush, but like I said, on top of Montana Silver ink it looks like automotive metallic paint. 4- Citadel Dry and Technical paints I generally dislike supporting Games Workshop, but Golden Griffon, Necron Compound, and Blood for the Blood God are ridiculously useful. The Dry line of paints is perfect. I wish I could get this stuff in darker colors, because it is to drybrushing what slicing is to bread. It takes a very easy, good thing and just makes it so much easier. Anyone who wants to learn about drybrushing should get the Dry paint of their choices and go at it. The reason it's so good is that you can work it into your brush and when you go to wipe it off, it doesn't all come off like an airbrush-ready paint would. Blood for the Blood God is exactly what it sounds like and does the job perfectly, and then you get into stuff like Typhus Corrosion and oh drat everyone who is interested in non-traditional paints just owes it to themselves to get this stuff or make something like it themselves. 5- SCIGRIP industrial adhesives, available from Amazon I like SCIGRIP 16 in a dropper bottle. Why? Because unlike plastic glue, it bonds restic to restic. It also bonds restic to plastic, or to acrylic, or to pretty much any other plastic type material other than polyethylene, which is what your dropper bottle should be made of. Do not attempt to use SCIGRIP 16 without a dropper bottle or applicator tip. Anyways that's my top 5 shortcuts. I thought someone might get a kick out of them.
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Mar 12, 2015 00:37
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loving forgeworld. That fucker would not straighten out no matter how much boiling water I put it in. Overpriced garbage.
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Mar 12, 2015 01:15
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Yay, a chance to post something. Painting a Maggoth Lord right now, recently moved, sapped all my will to paint for the last three months, hopefully I'm back on track.                          
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Mar 12, 2015 02:42
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Do I need to thin Liquitex varnish (gloss, if it matters) at all if I want to shoot it through an airbrush? If so, what should I thin it with?
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Mar 12, 2015 03:37
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Warning to anyone who uses Bones: InstaMorph at any softness absolutely loves to stick to Bones plastic. I had quite a disaster when trying to sculpt a temporary painting base for my Great Old One out of InstaMorph .
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Mar 12, 2015 03:43
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Paolomania posted:Warning to anyone who uses Bones: InstaMorph at any softness absolutely loves to stick to Bones plastic. I had quite a disaster when trying to sculpt a temporary painting base for my Great Old One out of InstaMorph . Ok on a second try I got it by speculatively molding it most of the way, and then doing some fitting only when the InstaMorph was barely workable.
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Mar 12, 2015 04:04
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Sulecrist posted:Do I need to thin Liquitex varnish (gloss, if it matters) at all if I want to shoot it through an airbrush? If so, what should I thin it with? You can thin it with water. You don't need to thin a varnish, but I usually do because I am paranoid about thin layers (~4:1 varnish:water)
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Mar 12, 2015 04:16
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Imagedump pic spam, :dwi: Looks like most of my old 40k pics are mysteriously gone, bummer. Basically this is just an assortment of random stuff I still had copies of.              
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Mar 12, 2015 04:24
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Yes, I'll join this party. 2011ish to last week, not in chronological order.                         
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Mar 12, 2015 06:33
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Awesome minis all up in here, I'm mad jelly and have to start practicing again (luckiy I have these millions of tiny things to practice on :$) Krushgroove, your painting site is pointing to a placeholder domain. Is it up and running and misspelt or about to go live?
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Mar 12, 2015 07:28
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Time to bring this to gods own scale.    There you go, more miniatures in one post than the rest of the thread so far put together.
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Mar 12, 2015 08:52
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Dr. Phildo posted:Krushgroove, your painting site is pointing to a placeholder domain. Is it up and running and misspelt or about to go live? Trust me to misspell the name of my own drat site...it's https://www.tinyplasticspacemen.com Grey Hunter posted:There you go, more miniatures in one post than the rest of the thread so far put together. I think the gauntlet has been thrown!
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Mar 12, 2015 09:48
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krushgroove posted:Trust me to misspell the name of my own drat site...it's https://www.tinyplasticspacemen.com 6mm represents, gonna order a thousand 1812 Frenchmen this month    Painting banners in 6mm is fun! 
lilljonas fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 10:14
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lilljonas posted:6mm represents, gonna order a thousand 1812 Frenchmen this month I'm waiting on my division of WI British Tommies atm. its been nearly two weeks, which is odd for Baccus. He has been to a few shows though.
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Mar 12, 2015 10:40
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BULBASAUR posted:You can thin it with water. You don't need to thin a varnish, but I usually do because I am paranoid about thin layers (~4:1 varnish:water) If you do this, make sure it's distilled water. Not tap. Not spring. Not Peru.
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Mar 12, 2015 11:54
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lilljonas posted:Lots and lots of samurai. What rules do you use with these? I'm considering getting into 6mm samurai warfare, but I'm having a really hard time figuring out where I can get a rule set that makes sense.
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Mar 12, 2015 12:02
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Throbbing blob posted:Just reposting old poo poo? Don't mind if I do!
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Mar 12, 2015 12:49
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Electric Hobo posted:What rules do you use with these? I'm considering getting into 6mm samurai warfare, but I'm having a really hard time figuring out where I can get a rule set that makes sense. I'm ashamed to say that I only have enough for two armies of DBA. I keep telling myself that I will paint up enough for two armies of Killer Katanas II, but Pike & Shotte might be a better game and there are plenty of samurai conversions. The project keeps getting delayed because my group just wants to play Chain of Command all day every day. Plan B is to replace the 1/72 minis in the Samurai Battles boardgame, and just use them for that. E: give me a shoutout if you go for it and need any terrain, and I'll give you a goon deal http://muraminiatures.com/
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Mar 12, 2015 12:54
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Doctor Zero posted:If you do this, make sure it's distilled water. Not tap. Not spring. Not Peru. I'm curious why most people seem to think that you must thin acrylics with distilled water?
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Mar 12, 2015 14:08
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krushgroove posted:I'm curious why most people seem to think that you must thin acrylics with distilled water? Because tap water is variable. Heavy mineral deposits or sulphur in the water could mess with your paints. I've never been worried and so just use tap water, but I can see why some people might care.
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Mar 12, 2015 14:10
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^ Yeah, pretty much that. Some people live in places where tap water isn't a good idea, and so it kind of became A Thing that distilled water should be your go-to every time. For normal paint thinning, if you live in a place with good water, there's no reason to use distilled. Well, except maybe if you're making your own washes. I could see that being a good idea in general, since you don't want to mess those up.
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Mar 12, 2015 14:17
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Hmmm. Could possibly be the reason why my Les Burley washes have a thick sludge on the bottom - the place I live in is a noted hard water area.
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Mar 12, 2015 15:05
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berzerkmonkey posted:What is your DKoK blue recipe? I was trying for this color on my Epic DKoK, but wound up with more of a denim color. It doesn't look terrible, but I'm not 100% satisfied with it. Hmm. It's been a while since I painted them, but I think it was Vallejo Model Color Pastel Blue (901) and French Mirage Blue (900) in a 50/50 mix. To shade with, I just used a thin layer of Nuln oil, and then edge highlight with base colour and then pure Pastel Blue if needed.
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Mar 12, 2015 15:06
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Commissar Canuck posted:I've been getting more practice in with gloss coating, oil washes and then matte coating models with pretty great results so far. I love the vallejo liquid gold, silver, etc. line of paints, but don't know the timing on when to put it on the model. I assume gloss and matte varnishes mess with the luster, but how can I uniformly apply a wash and protect the metallic paint? My standard for about ten years has been to spray on a layer of gloss varnish then apply a matte finish. It evens out the sheen pretty well, so the metals look metallic and the other stuff looks okay.
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Mar 12, 2015 16:02
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