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Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
The Great Volvo V8 Conversion



The Volvo: 1979 265 in dark green with almost 300,000 miles and the best V6 ever put in a DeLorean.
Fortunately, the PRV was replaced with a new one at some point under a recall. Unfortunately (expectedly), that motor also stopped behaving and I was able to pick the car up for about $500 in 2010. The motor was running enough to get it on a trailer and then back it into the carport where it would then sit for four years while I tried to find a warehouse, or new house, that had protection from rain and tree stuff.



The Source: 1989 Mustang Police Interceptor.
I bought this from a friend back in '99 and put a ton of miles on it driving back and forth from Houston to Ft. Hood for a few years and then drove it locally until a Lexus decided to pull in front of me and slam on its brakes in 2010. Front end was crumpled a bit, the hood buckled enough to be thrown away, and the radiator cracked, but the engine and everything else was fine. It was put on a salvage title and not really worth keeping, but I really like it and was hoping to get enough cash to fix the body, repaint, and fix a few small things to get it back on the road again. Unfortunately, I've not come into a pile of money and ended up with a running Mustang that wasn't legal to drive and a non-running Volvo that looked perfect.



THE GOAL: To transplant the Mustang's motor, accessories (AC, PS, etc), transmission, and a few other odds and ends over to the Volvo.
The original plan was to get a kit from Ross over at Converse Engineering, but he seems to have retired and the site is down. I dug up some screenshots from archive.org and found a lo-res photo of the parts he sends out and a bit of other info, but it wasn't enough to actually go through with the project.

Then I found TestPoint's thread over at turbobricks and with the mountain of information he put together, I figured I might as well try. Everyone said that a 350 was much easier and you can still get a kit from jagsthatrun, but I'm a Ford guy and I've already got a great 302 just waiting to be used. Ross' kit had some nice things like wiring adapters and the fabricated motor/transmission mounts, but with TestPoint's info I think I'll be able to put it all together.

If anyone wants the PRV or Volvo transmission, let me know.



Expected Completion Date: Summer 2020?
I work full time at a museum and am finishing up my undergrad, so this won't be a constant thing, but now that I have a large garage I should be able to make fairly routine progress. Barring a stint in grad school, I expect this to be completed by the end of the summer in 2020. Could be much sooner, depends how smoothly the engine and transmission rebuilds go and if all the fabricating comes out right the first time.

I'll be keeping a budget on google docs, if anyone is curious, and will maintain a projected cost list to compare to the actual costs as the project moves along. I like seeing that kind of stuff and after rebuilding a couple of Galaxies and a Hornet, I've gotten a better idea of how much I need to expect to spend (twice as much as you think). This is certainly going to be the biggest project yet, including a bunch of stuff I've never done before like fully rebuilding motors and transmissions. I've done some significant car stuff over the years like full suspension/steering, including bushings, in both Galaxies and the Buick, optispark and rest of ignition in the Buick, lots of fuel tank work in both Galaxies, and got down to the block with the '66 Galaxie, but haven't done real engine/trans rebuilding with all those fancy tools and whatnot.


Specific Plans: :words:

ENGINE: The motor in the Mustang isn't the orginal from the interceptor, not that they're all that special or something, but it's worth pointing out. It's got a stock block and heads, custom cam (somewhere close to a E303), GT-40 intake, 65mm throttle body, and 73mm mass air to gave it enough power to run 13.9 1/4 miles all day with the silly 4.56 gears in the rear end running it out of fourth long before the end of the track. I never put it on slicks, but my friend that had it before me said he had it in the high 12's (never saw the slips, so I dunno whatever people say all kinds of things). It's an unusually fast car around town, but that's mostly because of the gearing. So anyway, the block itself will be kept, but I'd like to switch over to aluminum heads so I can knock off a bit of weight that the V8 will be adding to the front end. Might do a bit of work to the block, but I haven't decided yet (budget will determine how much gets spent on the motor). Going to consult with my buddy that sold me the car in the first place, he runs one of the best Ford shops in town and has been doing this stuff for decades. He might end up taking the Mustang back to rebuild himself, I sure won't have the cash to do that anytime soon.

TRANSMISSION: The Mustang's transmission is a T-5Z and was last rebuilt over ten years ago, although I'm not quite sure on the exact date. It was fine when I parked it, but might as well rebuild it while it's out. Haven't decided if I'll be doing the rebuild myself, it's around $350 for the kit and my friend's shop will do it for around $700.

BRAKES: From what I understand, the stock brakes are pretty decent. They're certainly better than the Mustang, as the Volvo has discs all around. I'm more than likely going to just get the discs checked and put on new pads while changing the fluid. Assuming the discs are fine and the calipers aren't acting up, not much will change here.

STEERING: Well, that depends on whether or not the Mustang's PS pump will work with the Volvo's system. Ford's PS pumps have sucked forever and the one on the Mustang is loud as hell, so I might look into using the Volvo one (unlikely), or see if there's a better option that isn't louder than the exhaust. Other than that, just going to inspect the rack and replace the tie rod ends since the originals are pretty cracked.

REAR DIFF: As far as I understand, the Volvo rear end is fine for the hp/torque levels an 80's 302 puts out. And besides, changing over to the Mustang's rear end would be a massive pain and the brakes suck anyway. I'll do a bit more research before the end, but I'd guess that cleaning it out, changing the fluid, and checking the axles should be adequate. Although I've got really bad luck with changing diff fluid. Always seems to wake up massive problems that the old fluid was hiding. I'm also not sure if this Volvo got the limited-slip, going to get a better look at it once I get it up on jackstands.

EMISSIONS/EXHAUST: In Texas, once your car is over twenty-four years old you just get a safety inspection (brakes, lights, horn, etc). No need to bother with all the smog stuff, but I made sure to keep the air pump, EGR, and cats on the Mustang (it was inside the window until recently) so I'll see how inconvenient it is to keep it all while rebuilding the engine. The cats will likely depend on their location under the Volvo, since the whole exhaust system will be getting fabricated by a local shop that does all my dumb projects. As long as the heat they generate isn't a risk, then I'll be keeping the two hi-flow ones that're currently on the Mustang. Might get rid of the air pump, as the tubing is super annoying when doing work on the passenger side. The glory days of driving around the mall parking lot and setting off car alarms are gone, so we'll probably settle on a pair of three chamber Flowmasters or something like the Dynomax Ultra-Flows. I've got the Ultra-Flow VT's on my Roadmaster and it's a good compromise for that car, so might buy them again. Current headers are BKK long tubes and I'm probably going to have to go with shorties, unless I can get a pair of long tubes to fit. The other question will be whether or not I can keep the dual exhaust, or will have to do a single muffler at the rear where the OEM exhaust is. The exact design of the exhust system will probably be decided by the shop doing all the fabricating, but I'm going to do whatever I can to avoid a single pipe setup (I might hide the passenger side pipe under the bumper).

ELECTRICAL/ACCESSORIES: Mustang still has the R12 AC system and it looks like I'll be keeping that since I can still get R12 pretty cheap. I forget if the Volvo was converted to r134, but it might have been and that'll have an effect on the AC system choices. Mustang alternator should be fine, but is going to get tested. Ignition system was replaced within the past five years in the Mustang and assuming it all behaves as intended, I'll be keeping most of it. Cruise Control should transfer easily as well. The Mustang came with it and the Volvo did as well. Wiring will be replaced as required, but hopefully not too much. The Mustang's harness is in decent condition.

INTERIOR: The seating is addressed below, but there's plenty more! Hopefully all the gauges will continue to function as intended, I'd very much like to keep the interior looking as stock as possible. The 8 track player still works and I've got enough of those to keep things interesting, but I'll also be putting in one of these Schosche FM transmitters so I can keep the stock look and still listen to nerds talk about video games for hours and hours. All speakers will be replaced, but that isn't really a priority and might not happen by the time the project is done. I mean, if I have to pull the dash to replace the heater core then sure I'll replace that stuff then. The carpet and floor mats will be replaced with something that'll match whatever I decide to do with the seats and I might need to get the clock rebuilt/replaced. That's all the stuff I can think of in there.

EXTERIOR: Paint was redone at some point in the past decade or two and is in amazing condition. There's a handful of chips and scratches and a rust spot at the base of the driver side rear window that I'll be getting taken care of after the engine and transmission are pulled and the bay is cleared out. I'd like to get the engine bay repainted, as there will not be another opportunity to do so. I'll be getting estimates for this by the end of the summer (which sumner? who knows!). Other exterior issues include a cracked hinge on the tailgate, cracks in the taillights and turn signals, faded badges, and the rear window sprayer nozzle is broken. The roof rack is in good shape, wipers all seem to work fine, and the trim is in good shape. Bumper is peeling a bit, it's got some sort of clearcoat on the shiny parts.


Documentation: :eng101:

I'll add stuff to this as I get it. I've also got pdf archives of all the posts TestPoint has on turbobricks and will post those if his stuff ever disappears. Even got some paperwork from work that was done to it by the PO, probably gonna scan that stuff and add it to the photo album at some point.

Budget (This currently has all the expected costs and a few actual costs for a handful of things I've bought)

1979 Parts Brochure (Great photos of period stuff, love the rear spoiler)

Photo Album (I'll be putting all the photos from the build in here, as well as the stuff that's in the OP)

Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Apr 10, 2015

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Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc


EXTRA STUFF:





WHEELS/TIRES:I like the current ones, but I really like the virgo turbo wheels from that era. I'd rather not go above 15" and I'd like for the car to look like a Volvo of that era, so no pegasus or later Turbo wheels. I've been finding the virgos around in varying condition, so if I go with them I'll be slowly acquiring ones that aren't trashed and hope to have five by the time the car is ready. I think the virgos are 6" wide, not sure about the width on the stock wheels, so I'm not going to be able to go crazy with tires, but this isn't a track car either. Tire brand/size suggestions would be appreciated. I think the virgo cars came with 195/60's. Most of my older cars have Radial T/A's :cool: and the Mustang has a set of Firehawk SZ-50's at the moment.




SEATS: The stock tan interior is relatively attractive and comfortable enough, but there is literally zero side bolstering. I'd like to keep the backseat original, but I'm open to the idea of getting a set of seats from a turbo/GT. Any suggestions would be great, all my previous Volvos were from the late 80's and early 90's, so a bit different inside.




SUSPENSION: The Mustang is fitted with red Konis, Eibach springs, and decent sway bars. I liked the way it handled and would like something "similar", but without slamming the Volvo. Houston's roads are trash and I'm not daily driving another lowered car. It could stand to go down an inch or so, but that's about it. I dug around on ipd a bit and found one set of rear springs and nothing for the front. I'm also not sure if their sway bars will fit. Getting Bilsteins for the shocks/struts would be fine, I don't need the track performance of Konis, but the larger sway bars would be great. If anyone has input on suspension for these guys I'm all ears. This thing is as old as I am and I really don't expect any of the suspension components to be in good shape other than solid stuff like the sway bars.




BATTERY LOCATION: This is more than likely not going to change, but I'll take input in case anyone has a better idea. The battery is going in the storage well next to the fuel filler, with a fabricated battery tray cut to fit the hole. I've already got enough cable from something I was going to do with the battery in my old El Camino, so this won't be a big deal, and any effort to move weight from the engine bay to the back is going to be helpful.


I'm also open to any ideas y'all have. This project is going to move slowly enough that I should be able to adapt to new plans fairly easily.

Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Apr 10, 2015

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
Looking forward to this. Nicely organized plans & documentation make for a good thread, so well done.

Good luck!

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
All the action from this week. After pushing the '70 Galaxie out of the way (and breaking the steering column), we were able to move the two cars up the driveway far enough for the tow truck to grab them. I ran the Volvo over a paint can, so that's still sitting in the old carport in a pile while I wait for it to dry, and almost ran over a battery with the Mustang.


So the Mustang started, but the Volvo's intake was removed when I was trying to get the distributor changed back when I thought I could fix the PRV. And I thought GM distributors were annoying, the one in the PRV is ridiculous.


First real washing in half a decade. Pretty much destroyed my sponge thing.


New home for the Volvo for the next five years maybe?


Both cars in place and being inspected by my dog.


Easy access with the hood gone!


Oh man, this motor. At least it looks cool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFZ6oOlZ_2Q
Video of the Mustang a few minutes after starting it for the first time in like four years.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
I have the JagsThatRun Volvo V8 conversion book right here on the shelf next to me. I'm excited as hell that someone else is going to take this plunge first.

Missed out on buying a 302-powered 85 245 earlier by one week last year :(

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
I've considered getting that book just to have it, but so much of the conversion is different that it isn't really worth paying for.

And I spoke to TestPoint, he's going to see if his metal guy will cut another pair of motor mount plates. I need to get under the Volvo this weekend and start identifying stuff like the rear end and size the driveshaft. It might be too small for the torque levels of the 302, but the V6 driveshaft could be larger than the diesel one his Volvo had. I'll try to remember to take a bunch of pictures.

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde
I've got my own V8 245 project on the backburner, so it'll be super exciting to watch the progress on yours, as well as a great resource when I finally do get around to doing mine.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

Sir Tonk posted:

I've considered getting that book just to have it, but so much of the conversion is different that it isn't really worth paying for.

I was mentioning it more as an aside - I can look it up for you if you have some questions.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Those Mustangs have one hell of a distinct exhaust note. One I haven't heard in a long time.

Good luck with the swap, looking forward to it.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Sir Tonk posted:




SUSPENSION: The Mustang is fitted with red Konis, Eibach springs, and decent sway bars. I liked the way it handled and would like something "similar", but without slamming the Volvo. Houston's roads are trash and I'm not daily driving another lowered car. It could stand to go down an inch or so, but that's about it. I dug around on ipd a bit and found one set of rear springs and nothing for the front. I'm also not sure if their sway bars will fit. Getting Bilsteins for the shocks/struts would be fine, I don't need the track performance of Konis, but the larger sway bars would be great. If anyone has input on suspension for these guys I'm all ears. This thing is as old as I am and as with everything else that's in it



With the V6 or a V8 conversion, you need the special V6 version of the front sway bar. It has an extra huge dip to cut down below the motor. If you look at your stock sway bar you'll see what I mean. If you find an IPD V6 sway bar for sale on TB you snag that thing immediately as they are basically unicorn horns at this point I think. But slight lowering, sport shocks and sways will completely transform the car without making it uncomfortable at all.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Don't people pretty regularly put the Fox front subframe in stuff? If you like how it handles, why not just swap it all over?

E: Then maybe put a Thunderbird 8.8 setup out back to keep with the theme :D

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.
Sway bar solution: just put an upgraded rear bar on it and leave the front bar as is :unsmigghh:


beautiful

atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Apr 10, 2015

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc

Seat Safety Switch posted:

I was mentioning it more as an aside - I can look it up for you if you have some questions.

Appreciate it, I probably will once I shove the engine in the first time and realize that nothing fits and it's all a lost cause.

LloydDobler posted:

With the V6 or a V8 conversion, you need the special V6 version of the front sway bar. It has an extra huge dip to cut down below the motor. If you look at your stock sway bar you'll see what I mean. If you find an IPD V6 sway bar for sale on TB you snag that thing immediately as they are basically unicorn horns at this point I think. But slight lowering, sport shocks and sways will completely transform the car without making it uncomfortable at all.

Awesome, thanks Lloyd. Loved your Amazon thread.

I'm pretty sure it has the V6 bar up front, but I'm going to verify all that this weekend (hopefully).

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Oh yeah, you will have the stock V6 sway bar, I'm just saying keep an eye out for the upgrade sway bar and if you want it jump on it fast.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Yeah I read your response wrong :ohdear:

Anyway, we've been getting rained on a bunch and I've had to deal with the Galaxie at the old house, so no big news yet.

Well, other than a few boxes that showed up:



And some red stuff was inside.



I've literally never been able to use a creeper since my old place had a driveway that looked like the Aggro Crag, so I'm looking forward to that. Got the jack stands for the Volvo to stay on so I can still use my other ones for regular work.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Ok so the past few weekends have been spent getting all the old cars moved from the old house. The Galaxie's steering column decided to disconnect itself from the gear, so that turned into a bit of a headache when I also lost the key to my toolbox and had to just jack it up and turn the wheels over and over to get it straight in the driveway.

Anyway, that's done now and it stopped raining for a few hours.

Found a mouse in the intake manifold of the Volvo, didn't have the camera on me so I let him run off. Apparently there's a significant colony of rodents hanging out in this garage, in addition to a few million spiders, so the traps will be coming out soon.

Got it up off the ground, sure is nice having a jack that actually works correctly.







All the factory jack points are solid, one of mine was folded over on my last Volvo, so that's a relief. Grille is missing three of the mounting things, seems pretty normal with old Volvos, and one of them was replaced with a drywall screw...





Can see the original spare leaning against my locked toolbox, which sure looks like what came with these back when they were new.
Tire has been replaced, thankfully, but it's pretty bald.





Fancy front suspension.



Gonna do some cleaning next day I have off, not sure if these had any sort of stamping/labeling on them.


Hey LloydDobler, is this Addco front bar similar to the ipd one?

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
Did you know: In the 80s the city of Falls Church Virginia used Volvo 240s as police cars. Your thread reminded me of that fact. I should see if there are any pictures.

Cool swap, good documentation. I wouldn't mind a 302 in a 740 wagon.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Sir Tonk posted:


Hey LloydDobler, is this Addco front bar similar to the ipd one?

Sure looks like it. That'd be a 22mm bar, which should be a nice upgrade over your presumably 19mm or 20mm bar.

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde
Would I be able to use that bar on my '89 245 or did they change the mounting points from the earlier cars?

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

I'm pretty sure mounting points are identical for all 240s. But you'd only want that bar if you need the clearance for an engine swap.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc

LloydDobler posted:

Sure looks like it. That'd be a 22mm bar, which should be a nice upgrade over your presumably 19mm or 20mm bar.

Killer, thanks. I've got a long time to find a used ipd one, but the addco will be a reasonable alternative if I can't find one.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Interior time. I'll get some shots of the front half this weekend. (also need to get a good shop light, my super flashlight is a bit too focused)



This was all in the back when I got it. Bunch of random parts, two shift boots, a couple of gas caps, a Chilton's, ice scraper, some rope, and this thing:





I'm guessing this guy is at least three decades old, if not as old as the car itself. I've never seen a cooler in this design, they've been all plastic forever.

Wanted to make sure the tire wells weren't rusted and remembered that there's a slight issue with the battery idea in the back.



Should be able to relocate it so that both the battery and the tank fit in there, but I'm not completely certain yet.



Tire side is pretty decent, no major rust just some worn down paint. Definitely going to cover this area with bedliner, or POR-15 or something similar before it's all done. No need to keep it green.



If anyone was curious what color the carpet was when new...

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

Sir Tonk posted:







I'm guessing this guy is at least three decades old, if not as old as the car itself. I've never seen a cooler in this design, they've been all plastic forever.


My dad used to collect Coleman everything, and still picks those coolers up at garage sales for $10 or whatever when he finds them. They're fantastic; much more compact in size:capacity than the big new bulbous plastic things, and the handles never seem to break unlike newer ones which last a year or two. I use one all the time for camping.

Looking forward to updates on the swap! :getin:

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde

LloydDobler posted:

I'm pretty sure mounting points are identical for all 240s. But you'd only want that bar if you need the clearance for an engine swap.

Awesome, that's what I thought.

And my 245 has a 5.3 vortec in its future...

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
I've got a lead on this great 2.7L V6 you could use, it'll bolt right in!



Just look how cool it is.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

What I love about that coleman is it matches the car, in color and (presumably) vintage.

wilfredmerriweathr
Jul 11, 2005
We have one of those coolers, got it from my father in law. It's the best cooler I've ever owned.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
I used to use one of those coolers, but turns out that they went to bigger walls to increase the insulation. The walls on those ones are good at melting ice...
Great for storing stuff in for picnics though.

Nocheez
Sep 5, 2000

Can you spare a little cheddar?
Nap Ghost

The Royal Nonesuch posted:

My dad used to collect Coleman everything, and still picks those coolers up at garage sales for $10 or whatever when he finds them. They're fantastic; much more compact in size:capacity than the big new bulbous plastic things, and the handles never seem to break unlike newer ones which last a year or two. I use one all the time for camping.

Looking forward to updates on the swap! :getin:

My uncle has one of these that he's been using as long as I can remember, which is nearly 30 years. It's still in great shape, and he takes good care of it.

Mooseykins
Aug 9, 2013

Triangle tits and an annoying sex voice?

Fuuuuck youuuuu sluuuut!

Sir Tonk posted:

I've got a lead on this great 2.7L V6 you could use, it'll bolt right in!



Just look how cool it is.

It's a... PRV6?

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Only the best for the greatest stainless steel car ever built.

Also, if anyone needs PRV parts let me know. I'd rather them go to a good home than the scrap yard. Gonna try to donate the engine to the DMC factory, but it's a different size than the DeLoreon one so not sure if they'd even want it.

Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 03:39 on May 2, 2015

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Memorial Day Update:

No news, other than getting this cool shift knob in the mail. The threading is smaller than the Mustang's shifter, but I'm sure a solution will be found in the next couple of years.



And it looks like I won't be able to get started with engine removal until the middle of June. Way too much going on at work the next few weeks.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Independence Day Update

Finally got some time to start on this project and just in time for the Texas summer!

First up, it would seem that the mouse living in the intake manifold is also a fan of the front struts.



Fortunately, it didn't eat through the strut itself or anything else that I could find.

So I decided to work on pulling the PRV and transmission out of the Volvo first. Since this motor is just going to get recycled, I'd rather get it out of the way as soon as possible.



Underside looks pretty good. Still has an intact plastic cover, although it was held on by a zip tie on one end. This will be a common occurrence, but I guess it's better than shoving sheet metal screws into the trim.



More zip ties, this time it's the headlight surround. Also the only body damage I've found, but not sure why it's bent down right here. There isn't any other damage around it.



Battery tray mount is in good shape, although the tray could use some sanding and painting.



Step One.



Step Two.



Almost there.






All cleared out. This car should be far easier to pull an engine out of than the Mustang.



A nice pile of parts. This is going to get large quickly.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Progress is awesome.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Independence Day Weekend Update

Got a friend of mine to come by and pick up wrenches for me, always a nice addition.

Still working on getting the engine/transmission disconnected in the Volvo. Hopefully it'll be out by the end of July and then the Mustang's will be out by the end of August.




Mechanical fuel injection can't be that bad if Porsche used it...



Driver side is pretty clear, just got the power steering pump down low, but it can stay attached to the block if need be since I'm using the Ford one.



AC compressor in the way on the passenger side. It's been converted to r134, so let's get rid of that subpar cooling system.



Hoses in the way of the rear bracket bolt.



That's better, can get to the bolt now.



All gone. So what I've learned is that the Europeans are much better at securing their accessories than the big three. I think the compressor in the Mustang has two bolts in it, maybe. The Volvo has a bracket with like eight bolts attaching it to the block and then four holding the compressor.



Exhaust manifold nuts. Amazingly, all four came off once I was able to get enough torque on them. This car has been unusually cooperative so far with bolts/nuts...



That's it for today. Got the exhaust manifolds disconnected, removed the AC compressor, removed the hood, gave up on the rear bolt for the power steering pump, and destroyed a few spider webs. Also got a couple of drop lights and reversed the doors on the fridge so I could access beer while the garage door was open (this raised morale quite a bit).

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
End of Summer Update

Haven't been able to work on the Volvo at all, the other cars started breaking. Power steering pump started shooting fluid all over the place in the Lincoln, carb needed to be rebuilt in the Hornet, and the most recent acquisition had brake fluid that looked like this:



Normally, flushing brake fluid isn't terribly complicated, but being such and old car I of course ran into two bleeders that were rusted in place and a front one that wouldn't bleed even though it moved. Ended up having to replace the rear brake components and the valve screws up front. Oh and the front shocks were original and also rusted in place so that was fun.



At least the exterior doesn't look as bad as the brake fluid.



Really shows how small the Hornet was compared to the other cars of the day.

Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jan 19, 2016

mafoose
Oct 30, 2006

volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and vulvas and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dongs and volvos and dons and volvos and dogs and volvos and cats and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs
I can't believe I missed this thread.

As stated before, the iPd v6 bars are quite rare and sought after. I know they were trying to have another run, but I don't think they got the backing.

Also, some years of Volvo used the saginaw pump, which I know is used in F series trucks. I'm sure you can buy all the brackets for your 302 to run that pump, then just have hoses made up for your car.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Ok so it looks like I finally get to start pulling the 302 and transmission out of the Mustang this weekend. I'll be taking a bunch of photos (mostly to cover my own rear end when trying to figure out where stuff went) and will type up a big post on Sunday or Monday.

I need to get the Mustang emptied first in case the neighbor upstairs suddenly moves back and I have to surrender half of the garage to a new tenant. I'm going to be moving the Mustang to some property up north where it have hibernate once the parts are out of it.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Ok so I gave up on waiting for my assistant to actually show up and started pulling apart the Mustang since I've got a long weekend.



Last time I'll see the flamecar together for a long time, if ever. We had a good run together, almost twenty years.



First up, drain fluids. Looks like it held onto everything better than your typical Ford. Coolant was very fresh, oil is still clean, and the PS fluid was kinda trashed from me not ever changing it. Haven't gotten into the transmission yet, but the fluid I've seen is still very red. Fortunately, the rest didn't make as much of a mess.



Fortunately, I'd changed the gasket on the long-tubes a few months before the wreck and the bolts came out easily. Which is good since the emission stuff is severely in the way even when most of the hoses are removed. Drive side is a breeze and I finally got the passenger side off.



Radiator, shroud, and fan are out. Fan clutch bolts were a bitch for some reason, they're usually pretty easy to get out once they're loose.



Next up, the underbody stuff. Removed the x-pipe (totally forget that was the catalytic pipe that was put on when I had the emissions stuff re-installed, I usually buy h-pipes), pulled the trans crossmember, and all the assorted cables/wires.

edit



Haven't been getting much help out of these guys, they'd rather I be throwing the frisbee than banging on an old Ford.

Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jan 19, 2016

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Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
PART II



Went ahead and pulled the upper intake, it's a royal pain removing the wiring harness plugs on the back of it and some of the vacuum hoses were too hard to reach. Also, I didn't want to risk damaging it when pulling the motor, these intakes aren't cheap anymore. (just checked ebay and the intake cover, which I lost, is going for $300 on its own :stonk:)



Finally got a helper to come by and she was able to stabilize the brackets and AC compressor while I pulled the bolts/nuts. Nothing was rusted in place and other than a bit of spilled fluid, it went well enough.



Got all the accessories off and it looks like all the wiring is disconnected as well. I think we're good to go.



Parts that were pulled off Sunday.



All packed up for the next day. Things to do before the engine is pulled: disconnect u-joint at yoke, buy some chain and mounting hardware for the hoist, and get someone over here to help pull the motor out smoothly.

Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jan 18, 2016

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