|
Sandbagger SA posted:
"Army now forbids Jeep from being jumped." That's awesome.
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 17:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 21:21 |
|
|
I sent out some of these pics and got more good sperg back for you. "It's a GPW Higgins rebuild ! That's cool ! Most likely a Combat bring-back for the re-build program like my Navy jeep." Navy Jeep referred to:   "The front drivers wheel is a early Slat Grill rim and is worth money and the rear rim is a CJ2A rim and worth about $65." I didn't even notice the front one was different when I made my "wrong wheels" comment. This is why I bring in the domain-specific autists. "Back panel is VERY wrong" "snot weld on fender to step might have been from the rebuild or after ." spacetoaster posted:The carberator has been found. And granddad already rebuilt it. "8 patent numbers is correct on that carburetor and the throttle linkage should look like the letter K" Sandbagger SA posted:You would know better than me but I've also read that jeeps (GPW or MB) getting repair work at the depot often had engines swapped out for different makes because the government didn't care about every part being mfr. specific. "With that recondition tag by Hagans he can repair his Jeep with Ford or Willys parts and it will be correct ! Because back then all they did was take good parts out of piles and put jeeps back together that were destroyed in combat . The vehicles and aircraft parts were brought back on liberty ships to be rebuilt here in the states then sent back to war" "That jeep is worth ( if it has a WW2 engine and Trans ) about $4000 to $5000 as is . He has a great find !! Tell him to join and post pics on G503.com and he will get a lot of feedback /help from that crew"
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 17:52
|
|
|
InterceptorV8 posted:I think I am going to buy stock in break-freeŽ BRB. Jokes on you, I'm using spit. 
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 17:53
|
|
|
Motronic posted:
Wait, what? Combat bring-back? My grandfather told me it was, but I didn't really believe that. So that could have actually been a bullet hole through the drivers seat and floor pan? 
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 17:56
|
|
|
spacetoaster posted:Wait, what? Combat bring-back? My grandfather told me it was, but I didn't really believe that. Seems like that could very well be the case based on the tag. Which means you should leave that hole there.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 17:58
|
|
|
This jeep just got a thousand times cooler.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 17:58
|
|
|
Oh hell yes
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 18:05
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Seems like that could very well be the case based on the tag. Which means you should leave that hole there. You've already noticed the seat/floor pan for the driver's side has been cut out. I'm guessing granddad did that to preserve the bullet holes (he opined to me about japanese snipers all the time). Which means I must find it somewhere on his rather large farm.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 18:05
|
|
|
Keep in mind that "combat bring back" probably doesn't necessarily mean that it was doing sweet jumps and took a bunch of hella cool machine gun fire - just that it was used in theatre and probably was returned with deficiencies to the depot following the war. Deficiencies can be anything including a destroyed engine (hence a willys crate engine would be appropriate). Actually- you can find out. Every willys engine has mfg. code right? You should be able to tell from that if it was a crate engine, pulled out of an MB or even (believe it or not), built for a CJ-2A. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 18:47 on May 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 18:44
|
|
|
Here's the wheels from the front. I take them to a tire shop to have the tire removed and then sandblast and prime? Or are they no good (pretty rusty). Here's a closeup of the engine:  And here is the windshield. Do I remove the glass, wipers, etc and take to to get sandblasted and primed? It feels pretty solid. 
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 18:53
|
|
|
I really want to say that is a CJ2A engine or at least a post war crate engine. I'd just wire wheel the poo poo out of those rims and repaint it then call it good. Same with the windshield. Get all new rubber for it anyhow.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 19:13
|
|
|
Sandbagger SA posted:I'd just wire wheel the poo poo out of those rims and repaint it then call it good. I'd think that just taking the stuff to a body shop that can blast the parts and prime them quickly would be the way to go. Is there any reason that wouldn't be a good choice?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 19:17
|
|
|
Sand blasting is the way to go, or if you want you can try some electrolysis rust removal.  We did it on our CJ wheels and they came out great. http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 19:28
|
|
|
The wheels will be pretty durable, but for any body panels, ensure that the blasting is done by someone who knows what they're doing with thinner material like automotive panelwork. Being too aggressive with a blaster can damage things. If it's someone at a bodyshop or passed onto by one, they should be ok, but if they're used to dealing with bloody great lumps of iron casting, take care. As Slow Is Fast says, electrolytic de-rusting is great, really works well.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 19:30
|
|
|
With the amount of rust on that thing, and the scope of your project, I'd be building the largest electrolysis bath I could manage. When I was doing work on my cherokee, I built one for essentially free once I scrounged a 55gal plastic drum and a few pieces of scrap rebar. Used a battery charger to power it. It's super easy/cool/fun. Just pick a plastic container big enough to hold your largest part and buy bulk baking soda. Can't wait to follow this thread! My granddad has some variety of old willys I've had my eye on.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2015 19:52
|
|
|
Found the carb! 
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 00:11
|
|
|
Bam! There's your 8 patent numbers. Correct for the vehicle.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 00:59
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Bam! There's your 8 patent numbers. Yep, it appears granddad was in the process of rebuilding it. It's got some shiny new parts in it, and there was a little baggie of the same parts (just worn out looking) with it. I'm putting it all in it's own box with all the other little parts (Headlights, horn, blackout drive, etc) until I get down to the frame. Then I'll start rebuilding from the frame.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 01:04
|
|
|
spacetoaster posted:Yep, it appears granddad was in the process of rebuilding it. It's got some shiny new parts in it, and there was a little baggie of the same parts (just worn out looking) with it. I'm not going to tell you what to do with your neato project, but I kind of think this is a bad idea. If you're like me, you'll get it all the way apart, realize how much work there is to put it all back together, and get really stressed out. I think it's better to work on one thing at a time. Get it running, then refresh the suspension (or whatever), then fix the tub (or whatever), and so on and so forth. That way each little success gets it closer to looking like a real vehicle, instead of a pile of parts.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 08:31
|
|
|
Raluek posted:I'm not going to tell you what to do with your neato project, but I kind of think this is a bad idea. If you're like me, you'll get it all the way apart, realize how much work there is to put it all back together, and get really stressed out. I think it's better to work on one thing at a time. Get it running, then refresh the suspension (or whatever), then fix the tub (or whatever), and so on and so forth. That way each little success gets it closer to looking like a real vehicle, instead of a pile of parts. I also say don't be too worried about things that aren't "correct". My dad's Austin has a lot of things on it that are "wrong" for the car as per its 1930s spec, but they were common modifications done by people in the sixties, so they're both part of the car's history and are themselves as old as most classic cars anyway. Were he to re-do it ground-up, he might take certain things back to standard because they have to come apart anyway, but other stuff like it having upgraded* brakes would be kept. It doesn't have to be completely correct for a '44 Jeep, because it's your Grandfather's Jeep, and it'll always be correct as that. *This is when "upgraded" means "actually fitted with hydraulics rather than cable".
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 13:35
|
|
|
Raluek posted:If you're like me, you'll get it all the way apart, realize how much work there is to put it all back together, and get really stressed out. Thanks for the advice, but I'm the kind of guy who removes everything from the garage/shed and then cleans it and puts it all back in neatly. And I'm going to be restoring parts as I get it down to the frame. I found a buddy with a sandblaster today. 
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 19:21
|
|
|
spacetoaster posted:Thanks for the advice, but I'm the kind of guy who removes everything from the garage/shed and then cleans it and puts it all back in neatly. And I'm going to be restoring parts as I get it down to the frame. I found a buddy with a sandblaster today. Well, you've already done more to it than I have on my project car in the last 5 years, so I guess you've got a pretty good chance.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 20:42
|
|
|
spacetoaster posted:Thanks for the advice, but I'm the kind of guy who removes everything from the garage/shed and then cleans it and puts it all back in neatly. And I'm going to be restoring parts as I get it down to the frame. I found a buddy with a sandblaster today. See if you can borrow that sand blaster. I think you're doing this the right way. Take it apart and clean it up as you go. You aren't all that far away from having it apart - these things are about as complicated as lawnmowers. Once you get it down to the frame you can clean it up and put some chassis saver on it, get your suspension right and then work on the tub. Or work on the tub and have it ready to put back on by the time the frame it done. If you take pictures and notes of how things come apart you'll be pleasantly surprised as just how fast reassembly is (after you've gone through all the problems of taking apart the rusty stuff and cleaning it/replacing it.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 23:38
|
|
|
Motronic posted:See if you can borrow that sand blaster. What's the hardest part of these Jeeps? Learning how to set the valves for a flathead engine? I bet they did piston clearance with a feeler gauge and a fish pull scale.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 00:24
|
|
|
InterceptorV8 posted:What's the hardest part of these Jeeps? Panel beating primarily flat panel bodywork to a point where it is actually flat, doesn't oil can and doesn't need a 55 gallon drum of bondo. Don't even think about doing any bodywork on these things without an O/A torch, shrinking hammer and flat dolly. At least that's the hardest part of working on them. The hardest part overall is if you're trying to make them period correct: finding the parts (and paying for them), depending on what you've got to start with.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 00:35
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Panel beating primarily flat panel bodywork to a point where it is actually flat, doesn't oil can and doesn't need a 55 gallon drum of bondo. Don't even think about doing any bodywork on these things without an O/A torch, shrinking hammer and flat dolly. Yeah, that's true. But aren't Jeeps like these suppose be bent? Hehe. Somewhere I have old as gently caress family photos with drat near everybody in Jeeps. Most people don't know this, but 4wd was rare as gently caress back in the day, so when Dodge came out with their powerwagon, it was a godsend for those with families.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 01:18
|
|
|
InterceptorV8 posted:Yeah, that's true. But aren't Jeeps like these suppose be bent? Hehe. Yes. Yes they are. But understand that I'm coming from a point of view (driven by customers) where they want things looking like they came out of the factory. Or came out of the theater with the field upgrades but never damaged or even used in any way. I get that even though I don't really care (and think well used properly beat up ones are way cooler) I'm falling into this purist mindset in my answers, but that's because of the people I'm working with (I'm getting infected). It's all very interesting to me, not matter how much you get into it. It can be a little or a lot, but this shop caters to the "IT MUST BE RIGHT" purists (with cash). I'm working with a guy that gets asked to paint markings on historic planes and poo poo (navy jeep guy). They are all so much more into it than I am. I just enjoy some panel beating, working on old poo poo and hanging out with friends. I'm paid in beer, pizza and most importantly knowledge (good jobs get cash though....I like cash).
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 04:57
|
|
|
This is probably my favorite AI thread now. I'm definitely in the camp of people wondering why our grandpas didn't get Jeeps after the war.  I really think electrolytic de-rusting is going to be your friend. Maybe not for the huge parts like that windshield frame, but for smaller pieces like brackets and even bolts, it can be great. As ridiculous as it sounds, getting correct bolts and screws might be a huge pain in the rear end, and wire-wheeling that stuff sucks. Even if you don't reuse them all, someone out there might need them for another restoration. It's expensive enough trying to get this done for a 60s Chevy, I can't imagine how small the market is for this project. Save and reuse EVERYTHING you can.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 02:03
|
|
|
This thread has taught me that there are car purists for every brand, and that car purists are terrible. However, that's an awesome Jeep and I can't wait to see it finished. Best of luck to you in getting it looking good again!
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 02:26
|
|
|
Godholio posted:This is probably my favorite AI thread now. I'm definitely in the camp of people wondering why our grandpas didn't get Jeeps after the war. Eh, my granddad got a bitchin' Japanese battle rifle after The War, so I feel like it's a wash. Spacetoaster, that jeep is awesome and you're awesome for taking on this project. I really hope you get to drive it on to base the day you retire. Oh, speaking of, if you don't mind me asking, what do you do in the service?
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 02:27
|
|
|
CroatianAlzheimers posted:Eh, my granddad got a bitchin' Japanese battle rifle after The War, so I feel like it's a wash. Spacetoaster, that jeep is awesome and you're awesome for taking on this project. I really hope you get to drive it on to base the day you retire. Oh, speaking of, if you don't mind me asking, what do you do in the service? I'm a strange one. I've got two MOS's. Military Police and Human Resources. I just finished 4 years of HR management for a two star command. I've now been reassigned as an operations officer for the MP corps again. Godholio posted:I really think electrolytic de-rusting is going to be your friend. Maybe not for the huge parts like that windshield frame, but for smaller pieces like brackets and even bolts, it can be great. As ridiculous as it sounds, getting correct bolts and screws might be a huge pain in the rear end, and wire-wheeling that stuff sucks. Even if you don't reuse them all, someone out there might need them for another restoration. It's expensive enough trying to get this done for a 60s Chevy, I can't imagine how small the market is for this project. Ok. I can build that thing in a 5 gallon bucket, right? Does it do anything to old paint? A lot of the small parts are also covered in thick paint.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 02:41
|
|
|
I think at this point you either slap the engine back together and drive or find an electrolysis tank big enough to park in.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 13:36
|
|
|
Pfff. Just pay kevbarlas to fly over for
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 21:59
|
|
|
After much cutting, breaking of bolts, and screaming. I got the fenders and the grill off. 
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2015 17:47
|
|
|
Did the GPWs have those extra fun cage bolts holding the body together?
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2015 19:28
|
|
|
Sandbagger SA posted:Did the GPWs have those extra fun cage bolts holding the body together? Some were, some weren't. This thing is a mix of things I'm finding.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2015 19:49
|
|
|
Now I've got a box of little stuff (lights and various electronics). Figured I'd take one apart to see what kind of job I have in restoring them.  It looks like some old version of a blackout drive light.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2015 20:33
|
|
|
It's storming outside right now, so time for some inside work. I completely disassembled both headlights and both marker lights. Tomorrow I'm headed over to a friend's shop to use the abrasive cabinet to get the old paint and rust off. I'm assuming a coat of rustoleum primer will keep these bits protected until final painting and assembly? I also contacted a local body shop today. The owner is going to talk more in depth with me tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2015 05:05
|
|
|
spacetoaster posted:It's storming outside right now, so time for some inside work. As long as they're dry and out of the weather.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2015 12:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 21:21 |
|
|
spacetoaster posted:I'm assuming a coat of rustoleum primer will keep these bits protected until final painting and assembly? Yes, but before painting with "real" (catalyzed automotive paint) they have to be DRY DRY DRY, like a couple of weeks at least. This shouldn't be an issue for you now, but just keep it in mind as you approach the time where you'll be putting final coats of paint on things.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2015 15:30
|
|