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Motronic posted:Yes, but before painting with "real" (catalyzed automotive paint) they have to be DRY DRY DRY, like a couple of weeks at least. Hey, I can throw them in a kiln.  I'm calling the body shop today about the fenders, grill, hood, windshield. Is there anything I should specify (I've never even been in a body shop before)? I'm planning on telling him not to worry about the dents, but to repair any rusted out areas and clean off the rust and paint.
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May 28, 2015 16:36
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spacetoaster posted:Hey, I can throw them in a kiln. Sure, whatever. The idea is to get all of the stuff out that isn't paint, because when you mix types you'll often be sad. I found this out the hard way many years ago with rattle can primer and proper automotive paint - it made the primer start to sag and run. The guys at the paint shop pointed me to several things to read up on, and it comes down to incompatible solvents, so if all of the solvent isn't out of your base coat yet and you layer something incompatible on top it can do a variety of funky things.
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May 28, 2015 16:43
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Can anyone tell me what this is? And how do I tell if it's still good?
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May 29, 2015 03:05
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No loving idea. Fun guess: 12/6 voltage converter?  well then.
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 03:19 on May 29, 2015 |
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May 29, 2015 03:16
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spacetoaster posted:Can anyone tell me what this is? That is the starter solenoid and I'm guessing no. I mean....maybe.... but no.
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May 29, 2015 03:17
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Motronic posted:That is the starter solenoid and I'm guessing no. I mean....maybe.... Ok, I'll just make a note to buy one then. Next issue. I'm ready to remove the tub, but I can't remove the steering wheel. There's a large nut on it that won't budge. The steering wheel keeps turning when I try to break it loose. Do I need a really strong friend to hold the steering wheel whilst I use the breaker bar? Side note: This video has psyched me up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1RxGIishG4
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May 29, 2015 03:26
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spacetoaster posted:Next issue. I'm ready to remove the tub, but I can't remove the steering wheel. There's a large nut on it that won't budge. The steering wheel keeps turning when I try to break it loose. Do I need a really strong friend to hold the steering wheel whilst I use the breaker bar? Maybe try tying down the wheel with a ratchet strap or jamming it with some pipe?
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May 29, 2015 03:28
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That starter solenoid is like ten or fifteen bucks brand new and ones that look almost exactly the same are still available. As long as you aren't going for an absolutely perfect resto, you can probably get one at the parts store, and I bet the holes in the bracket even line up. In fact I could swear there's one in use on CJ5s and CJ7s, and possibly even the same one still on 4.2L YJs. Awesome project!
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May 29, 2015 03:56
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spacetoaster posted:Next issue. I'm ready to remove the tub, but I can't remove the steering wheel. There's a large nut on it that won't budge. The steering wheel keeps turning when I try to break it loose. Do I need a really strong friend to hold the steering wheel whilst I use the breaker bar? You need shop air and a rattle gun (or one of those new fangled electric impacts). Then it will probably still be stuck on and you'll need a steering wheel puller.
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May 29, 2015 05:34
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Hell, if you're not going for period perfect, Ford used a very similar solenoid at least through the 1980s. I want to say even into the early 90s on their trucks, I remember my stepdad's 1992 F-150 with the 5.8 had one on the inner fender. This one from a 1980 Pinto looks almost identical.  Part of me wants to say later Fords used a 3 wire instead of 4 wire, but I'm not entirely sure (Motronic would probably know better). But if you happen to drop into junkyards now and then, look through the older Fords for something that's a near match - they're generally mounted on the inner fender right by the battery. On RWD Fords they'll be on the passenger side inner fender; no idea on FWD. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:54 on May 29, 2015 |
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May 29, 2015 06:51
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Motronic posted:You need shop air and a rattle gun (or one of those new fangled electric impacts). Beat me to it. I'll even go as far as to say it will definitely be stuck and need a puller. If you haven't already, hit it with some penetrating oil and give it a few taps with a hammer. You can get a puller at pretty much any place that rents tools.
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May 29, 2015 14:17
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Motronic posted:You need shop air and a rattle gun (or one of those new fangled electric impacts). I'll head to the pawn shop today and see if I can't find that. some texas redneck posted:Hell, if you're not going for period perfect, Ford used a very similar solenoid at least through the 1980s. I want to say even into the early 90s on their trucks, I remember my stepdad's 1992 F-150 with the 5.8 had one on the inner fender. Ok, I'm going to stop by the war museum today. They've got 8 jeeps on display and the guys there refurbished them. I'll ask. I've spoken to a body shop today. 45$ an hour for body work (sheet metal repair/welding/etc). That seems pretty fair, right? I'm also going to start stripping the paint on the hood to see if I can find the numbers today.
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May 29, 2015 15:55
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Bought an electric impact wrench from the pawn shop. It worked like magic. I should have had one of these things already.   I started going through the layers of paint carefully. Nothing found so far. This grey/white layer I've found is pretty tough though.  Got down to the frame to find that serial number.  Looks like: GPW 0724
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May 29, 2015 20:20
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some texas redneck posted:Hell, if you're not going for period perfect, Ford used a very similar solenoid at least through the 1980s. I want to say even into the early 90s on their trucks, I remember my stepdad's 1992 F-150 with the 5.8 had one on the inner fender. My '84 Jeep SJ and '92 F150 had that.
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May 29, 2015 23:34
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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1973 CJ starter solenoid. Probably not original:
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May 30, 2015 00:51
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Just a thought on the solenoids. Were these jeeps 6,12 or 24V? You would have to get an appropriate solenoid to match.
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May 30, 2015 03:38
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Sgt Fox posted:Just a thought on the solenoids. Were these jeeps 6,12 or 24V? You would have to get an appropriate solenoid to match. I met with some folks with the Military Vehicle Preservation Association today. They turned me over to a place near me that can take my old electronics and give me an answer on whether it's good to go, or not. Can anyone tell me what to do to lift the body tub off? Remember I'm outside in my yard. Do I need to build a frame for a winch? Or is there some tool I can rent?
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May 30, 2015 03:41
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spacetoaster posted:Can anyone tell me what to do to lift the body tub off? Remember I'm outside in my yard. Do I need to build a frame for a winch? Or is there some tool I can rent? Invite a couple of friends over and buy them beer.
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May 30, 2015 07:13
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spacetoaster posted:I met with some folks with the Military Vehicle Preservation Association today. They turned me over to a place near me that can take my old electronics and give me an answer on whether it's good to go, or not. Yeah, either the friends thing or tip it off backwards or sideways. Works well for pickup beds, that tub ain't any bigger than that. edit: or sling it and uese your engine hoist! StormDrain fucked around with this message at 17:19 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 17:16
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Does anyone know how valuable that Higgins rebuild plate is? My cousin is giving my grandmother a sob story about how he understands that grandfather left me the jeep, but can he just have the Higgins rebuild plate to remember him by. It's total BS, but I'm just wondering why he's going after that plate. (I've already removed all the plates and put them away until the rebuild is complete.)
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May 30, 2015 19:18
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spacetoaster posted:Does anyone know how valuable that Higgins rebuild plate is? My cousin is giving my grandmother a sob story about how he understands that grandfather left me the jeep, but can he just have the Higgins rebuild plate to remember him by. You're doing all the work the cousin can come look at the rebuild plate whenever he wants.
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May 30, 2015 19:52
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spacetoaster posted:Does anyone know how valuable that Higgins rebuild plate is? My cousin is giving my grandmother a sob story about how he understands that grandfather left me the jeep, but can he just have the Higgins rebuild plate to remember him by. I assume you have the plates in a safe deposit box now where said cousin can't get at them?
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May 30, 2015 20:40
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CroatianAlzheimers posted:I assume you have the plates in a safe deposit box now where said cousin can't get at them? spacetoaster posted:(I've already removed all the plates and put them away until the rebuild is complete.) They're in my gun vault.
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May 30, 2015 20:56
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spacetoaster posted:They're in my gun vault.
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May 30, 2015 20:57
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In unbolting the tub from the frame I've discovered why the back doesn't look right. My grandfather fabricated another tub that he welded on over the actual tub because it's rusted away in a lot of places. I can't get the stupid steering wheel off. My neighbor is a mechanic, I'm going to see if he knows what to do.
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May 30, 2015 21:02
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http://www.cj3b.info/Tech/SteeringWheel.html
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May 30, 2015 22:03
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Oooh, I feel your pain. Decades of rust on a spline joint is always fun.
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May 30, 2015 22:07
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That second one is the most overbuilt bearing puller I've ever seen. It's like the Swedish equivalent of Harbour Freight built it. The puller screw is drat near bigger than the loving steering shaft.  It seems like introducing a Jeep to that level of beef is just going to piss it off. Hot Rod had a cool article on how to rebuild/refinish a vintage Ford Bakelite steering wheel recently, might come in handy for you to look it up. Here's an older article from Mopar Muscle about a guy in Edmonton who rebuilds them: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/interior-electrical/1407-restoring-factory-steering-wheels/ Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:42 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 22:39
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spacetoaster posted:Does anyone know how valuable that Higgins rebuild plate is? My cousin is giving my grandmother a sob story about how he understands that grandfather left me the jeep, but can he just have the Higgins rebuild plate to remember him by. Not knowing your cousin, but the fact that he's pulling that crap tells me he wants to sell it or use it to make another jeep look as awesome as what you have. In short, People do this poo poo all the time with original VIN/trim tags from classic cars. Buy a VIN and/or trim tag, rivet/screw it onto a different car. Magically that $15,000 basket case base-model Corvette becomes an original 427 big block car that's worth 3x as much money even with a non-original motor, or that $10,000 Chevelle is suddenly an original SS. Edit: Real quick googling suggests that Higgins rebuilt less than 2,000 of these. That makes that plate rare as hell by now. Godholio fucked around with this message at 02:56 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 23:40
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Godholio posted:In short, gently caress your cousin. Be careful, that'd be illegal in most states. Javid fucked around with this message at 02:12 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 23:42
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Javid posted:Be careful, that'd be illegal in most states. Yeah, I don't think he's advocating it.
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May 31, 2015 00:33
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So I've got a complete L134 gasket set if you want it. I bought it for my CJ2A and never used it.
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 03:05 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 31, 2015 02:55
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Sandbagger SA posted:So I've got a complete L134 gasket set if you want it. I bought it for my CJ2A and never used it. What is it for? Does it go with the engine?
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May 31, 2015 03:33
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Motronic posted:That is the starter solenoid and I'm guessing no. I mean....maybe.... I feel like I'm missing something because if you want to see if it works, apply appropriate B+ voltage (6/12/24, whatever the Jeep actually is) across the small terminals. You should get a loud click. Whenever you have voltage across the small terminals, you should have near-zero resistance across the big ones (and an open circuit across the big ones when no voltage is applied). But, yeah, that would be easily substituted by just about any other starter solenoid if it is in fact 12V.
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May 31, 2015 04:47
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So if you ever get bored with the whole stock classic jeep setup you could always throw in an LS1 like these guys. I think a death wish is a requirement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yewHnBSja8
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May 31, 2015 06:01
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spacetoaster posted:What is it for? Does it go with the engine? It's for an L134 Go-Devil engine. It's got a lot of bits including a head gasket, manifold gaskets, inspection port gasket etc.  
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 06:07 on May 31, 2015 |
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May 31, 2015 06:03
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spacetoaster posted:I've spoken to a body shop today. 45$ an hour for body work (sheet metal repair/welding/etc). That seems pretty fair, right? Depends on the quality and speed of work, but that's a reasonable rate for professional level work. spacetoaster posted:Can anyone tell me what to do to lift the body tub off? Remember I'm outside in my yard. Do I need to build a frame for a winch? Or is there some tool I can rent? A couple of 8' 2x4s and 4 dudes. They aren't that heavy. You could probably do it with 2 guys, it's just big enough to be awkward. spacetoaster posted:Does anyone know how valuable that Higgins rebuild plate is? For that Jeep - it's part of it. The more quality work and restoration you put into this jeep the more that plate is worth when attached to it. spacetoaster posted:In unbolting the tub from the frame I've discovered why the back doesn't look right. My grandfather fabricated another tub that he welded on over the actual tub because it's rusted away in a lot of places. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. I know we've ordered complete tail panels before and they weren't all that expensive. The rest is relatively flat metal and can be fabricated easily.
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May 31, 2015 23:06
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Motronic posted:Yes, but before painting with "real" (catalyzed automotive paint) they have to be DRY DRY DRY, like a couple of weeks at least. What is the primer I want to use? Slow is Fast posted:Sand blasting is the way to go, or if you want you can try some electrolysis rust removal. Building a small electrolysis tank today for the bucket of small nuts, bolts, washers, and brackets I've gotten off the jeep. spacetoaster fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Jun 1, 2015 |
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Jun 1, 2015 14:22
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spacetoaster posted:What is the primer I want to use? If you don't want to worry about incompatibilities you don't start with that question. You start with "what paint am I going to apply as my final coat" and work backwards from there.
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Jun 1, 2015 14:36
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Motronic posted:If you don't want to worry about incompatibilities you don't start with that question. You start with "what paint am I going to apply as my final coat" and work backwards from there. Ok, what paint do I want to use as my final coat?
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Jun 1, 2015 14:38
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